Family haulin' - Page 3

boots4 · 07-03-07, 02:11 PM

I thought I needed the input for mock up but I guess I don't. The case is apart with the bearing retainer removed. Since you have set one up Mace I think you know what you are talking about, thanks for the heads up.

I did order a 32 spline input to match my tranny output and was planning on leaving the 203 chunk apart until I got that. It's suppose to be here by the week's end.

Mace · 07-03-07, 04:19 PM

Having a input to make sure the bearing retainer is centered is idea. BUt it does not have to be spline specific..

Make sure that the adapter and the Bearing retainer aer the same size. I have noticed a slight difference between some of the ones I have played with (genreally ferd vs chevy)

You will also want to work on plugging all of the unnecessary holes and making a stop for the lower gear shaft..

boots4 · 07-03-07, 05:27 PM

I did notice that the threaded holes went all the way through and I was thinking of using some of those holes to mount a plate with the notch cut out that will retain the lower gear shaft. Do I need to worry about sealing the shaft?

Mace · 07-03-07, 09:25 PM

not the shaft, it has an O ring. but you do need to anchor it.

Tapage · 07-04-07, 07:39 AM

Dude .. if you plan run 33" - 35" I though tyou have no issues with 3.70 .. actually with 4.11 you gonna be in the Hi rpm range .. over 2500 - 3000 rpm .. and you dn't really need it ..

boots4 · 07-04-07, 08:23 AM

I don't think I could justify throwing this thread in the hardcore section if I were going to run 33s. I do have a set of 38s that I'm going to shoe-horn under it.

I ran the rpm calculator and with my overdrive and 4.11 ratio I'll be spinning about 1800 rpm at 65mph which is a sweet spot for the 4bt. Yeah, 33s would be too small and if I go down in tire size it will only be to a 37. I think 37s fit a SOA just right on an FJ60.

Funny side note: My mom is visiting us and she is not into the whole lifted truck thing and when we passed a F350 superduty with a big lift she said "I just don't like the look of that, the tires are too SMALL". Right then she made me happy.

Tapage I noticed how your front fenders are trimmed and I like the line they follow. Since I'm trying to keep it from getting too high I know I'll be trimming fenders and I thought yours were done well. For the rears since I'm moving the axle back just a little bit I am thinking I will have to trim the body mount bracket attached to the frame so the tire doesn't hit it when compressing the suspension. Has anyone else running big meats on an FJ60 run into that bracket?

Tapage · 07-04-07, 09:41 AM

What it's the OD number for your auto tranny .. ?

Point taken .. you are right with 38" or at least 37" ( that really have 37 inche ) you would be in the nice spot with the 4.11

Why move the rear axle back . ?

Actually I leave my rear axle in the factory place and have no rub issues with my tires .. and don't need to do any fender cut yet ..

At front was obligatory coz with the SR I hit the fender at each flex

boots4 · 07-04-07, 10:08 AM

ratios for the 4L80e: 1st-2.48 2nd-1.48 3rd-1.00 4th-.75

I was going to move the rear axle back 1-3 inches because I'm worried the tire will hit the front of the fender when stuffing plus it would help my departure angle a little. So I figured it would be easier to cut the rear of the fender since the front is where the door is and would be harder to cut. I plan on cutting the quarter panels and that might be enough for clearance when stuffing the tire but the body mount looks like it will be real close. However, it sounds like I might not have to touch it. Just thinking ahead. I won't cut anything until I do a flex test once it's back together.

Tapage · 07-05-07, 10:25 AM

Actually I'm always thinking in cut my rear fenders .. and as you mention was much more simple cut rear than front .. with the door to close there.

Someday I will do to keep it match with the front fenders .. and you have grear OD in the 4L80E much more than I have in my H55F ..

boots4 · 07-11-07, 01:36 PM

I am now the father of two. My boy was born last sunday and everything was good. All I have to say is that an Epidural makes the process smoother for everyone

. I was able to get some stuff done before he came so I'll post that stuff.

Costco has a pallet of these for $50 so I picked one up for a future on-board air set-up.

I decided to go with a 4L80e because of the strength, the overdrive, and the fact that it will bolt straight on to the chevy adapter on the back of my 4bt. I did want an auto this time but the controllers were pretty spendy. Then I read about a trans-go kit that will allow full control of the 4L80e without a computer. I didn't find much on the web about it (drivability, shift quality, etc.) but I decided to go with it anyways (the kit). I feel I'll get the best of both worlds, stays in the gear I choose like a manual but no clutch to deal with on the technical wheeling stuff. It will cushion my drive line some and absorb some of the massive torque built low in the rpm range. I'll be wiring in the lock-up on the torque converter to lock in any gear I want which ='s engine braking and manual-like efficency.

Here is the kit

I read that instruction booklet 5 times since I've never worked on an auto before. The instructions started to make sense and once I got into it, it wasn't so bad.

Inside the box

I started to separate the valve body and kept everything in order so I knew which bolts went where.

Then I pulled the pump out since there are some internal mods you can make with the kit.

Back side of the pump

Front side of the pump

With the tranny sitting upright (like in a vehicle) this is the bottom of the top half of the valve body.

With tranny upright, top of the bottom half of the valve body

No turning back now! The kit requires some drilling to the valve body to modify the flow.

The separator plate that goes between the two halves of the valve body. Had to plug in some holes and file them smooth.

I found some the friction plates behind the pump that looked to be worn out so I changed those out. I didn't dig any deeper and while the wise choice would be to just pull out the internal chunk and rebuild it I didn't want to get into it that far. I did buy a rebuild manual and figure I'll be do a rebuild down the road after studying the manual. I'm just hoping there is life left in the tranny. This is one of the unfortunate compromises to get this thing back on the road sooner. So I cleaned up the valve bodies, got rid of the shavings and old tranny fluid still sitting in the channels and put it back together with some stiffener plates. I hooked up the unit that controls the torque converter lock-up since I'll need that. Overall it went together fine. I did have some roller bearings come out on the overdrive planetary that I had to get back in but once I figured out the trick it just took a little time.

Things back together

Picked up a 9/16 drill for the holes on the rear spring mounts, drilled them, and after aligning them on the frame I tacked them on.

Passenger side

Driver side

After double checking I burned them into the frame.

Threw some paint on them. I think I'll throw a coat of black paint over the whole frame once I'm done grinding off old bracket and welding on new ones.

That's it for now.

Tapage · 07-12-07, 12:47 PM

My respect .. I never think ( and never crss my mind ) do anythink to a auto tranny ..

boots4 · 07-12-07, 02:01 PM

thanks Tapage. I always took things apart when I was a kid and really I'm still just tinkering with my toys. It just costs more!

Tapage · 07-12-07, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boots4

thanks Tapage. I always took things apart when I was a kid and really I'm still just tinkering with my toys. It just costs more!

I like to play with toys also .. and "wiring" it's my best but auto trannys .. mmm not

at least if I do, when shift it in D and push the pedal the rig with luck run backwards

brokenparts · 07-12-07, 03:05 PM

hey, why dont you get off your butt and get something done? hehehehehe

geez... you're gettin after it!

CreeperSleeper · 07-12-07, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brokenparts

hey, why dont you get off your butt and get something done? hehehehehe

You should take your own advice... Wait, your letting some else build your rig!

brokenparts · 07-12-07, 04:56 PM

touche.,cant wait to get mine home though... I think I could have got it done just as fast as they did

. No complaints though they're doing a good job and I just dont have the room (or time) to take on the projects that I had done. I still got some fenders to cut, on board air to install (the york), finish my half doors, fab my rear bumper, and then send it over to Metal tech for a cage!

boots4 · 07-12-07, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brokenparts

I still got some fenders to cut, on board air to install (the york), finish my half doors, fab my rear bumper, and then send it over to Metal tech for a cage!

so what your saying is another "2-3 weeks" right?

brokenparts · 07-13-07, 12:06 AM

hey, arent we suppose to be talking about your rig?

Tapage · 07-13-07, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brokenparts

and then send it over to Metal tech for a cage!

damn dude .. cage on Metal Tech .. now I'm jelaous !

CreeperSleeper · 07-13-07, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boots4

so what your saying is another "2-3 years" right?

fixed it for ya!

brokenparts · 07-13-07, 03:10 PM

well... not to further hi-jack this thread but Big Blue is back home now.

Moby · 07-13-07, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brokenparts

well... not to further hi-jack this thread but Big Blue is back home now.

Congrats! Having just brought mine home I know the feeling

boots4 · 07-15-07, 03:55 PM

Hey Mace,

is your 203 orientated straight up and down or does it favor a side. Basically I have the option of clocking the case a few degrees since I get to drill new holes on the 203 for mounting it to the 4L80e adapter. I am curious on how your is set up and if you would change the position any? I'm not after a flat belly so I don't mind if it hangs down some, just don't want it to be and anchor.

boots4 · 07-16-07, 10:52 AM

This showed up last week. I wasn't able to find a used one so I had to go with a new one.

The front side of the 32 spline input for the 203.

Back side

This is the seal No. that I pick up from Napa.

It's the single wider seal with the double lip. It's application was for a 203 behind a turbo 400. I believe my 203 came behind a turbo 350 and the parts computer said it took a different seal which they didn't have (which I think is the two seals put in back to back).

Double single seals on the left, single double-liped seal on the right

Input gear comparison. 27 spline on left, 32 spline on the right. The bearing was good so I reused it. Getting the bearing retainer clip off of the old shaft and on the new one turned into quite a job. I had to leave it alone for awhile and come back to it because I was having the urge to grab a BFH.

Just like Mace said in post NO. 60 the adapter centers on the bearing retainer.

Good fit

07-03-07, 02:11 PM	#61
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 555	I thought I needed the input for mock up but I guess I don't. The case is apart with the bearing retainer removed. Since you have set one up Mace I think you know what you are talking about, thanks for the heads up. I did order a 32 spline input to match my tranny output and was planning on leaving the 203 chunk apart until I got that. It's suppose to be here by the week's end. __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: http://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/160807-family-haulin.html

07-03-07, 04:19 PM	#62
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,534	Having a input to make sure the bearing retainer is centered is idea. BUt it does not have to be spline specific.. Make sure that the adapter and the Bearing retainer aer the same size. I have noticed a slight difference between some of the ones I have played with (genreally ferd vs chevy) You will also want to work on plugging all of the unnecessary holes and making a stop for the lower gear shaft.. __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

07-03-07, 05:27 PM	#63
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 555	I did notice that the threaded holes went all the way through and I was thinking of using some of those holes to mount a plate with the notch cut out that will retain the lower gear shaft. Do I need to worry about sealing the shaft? __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=160807

07-03-07, 09:25 PM	#64
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,534	not the shaft, it has an O ring. but you do need to anchor it. __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

07-04-07, 08:23 AM	#66
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 555	I don't think I could justify throwing this thread in the hardcore section if I were going to run 33s. I do have a set of 38s that I'm going to shoe-horn under it. I ran the rpm calculator and with my overdrive and 4.11 ratio I'll be spinning about 1800 rpm at 65mph which is a sweet spot for the 4bt. Yeah, 33s would be too small and if I go down in tire size it will only be to a 37. I think 37s fit a SOA just right on an FJ60. Funny side note: My mom is visiting us and she is not into the whole lifted truck thing and when we passed a F350 superduty with a big lift she said "I just don't like the look of that, the tires are too SMALL". Right then she made me happy. Tapage I noticed how your front fenders are trimmed and I like the line they follow. Since I'm trying to keep it from getting too high I know I'll be trimming fenders and I thought yours were done well. For the rears since I'm moving the axle back just a little bit I am thinking I will have to trim the body mount bracket attached to the frame so the tire doesn't hit it when compressing the suspension. Has anyone else running big meats on an FJ60 run into that bracket? __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=160807

07-04-07, 10:08 AM	#68
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 555	ratios for the 4L80e: 1st-2.48 2nd-1.48 3rd-1.00 4th-.75 I was going to move the rear axle back 1-3 inches because I'm worried the tire will hit the front of the fender when stuffing plus it would help my departure angle a little. So I figured it would be easier to cut the rear of the fender since the front is where the door is and would be harder to cut. I plan on cutting the quarter panels and that might be enough for clearance when stuffing the tire but the body mount looks like it will be real close. However, it sounds like I might not have to touch it. Just thinking ahead. I won't cut anything until I do a flex test once it's back together. __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=160807

07-11-07, 01:36 PM	#70
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 555	I am now the father of two. My boy was born last sunday and everything was good. All I have to say is that an Epidural makes the process smoother for everyone . I was able to get some stuff done before he came so I'll post that stuff. Costco has a pallet of these for $50 so I picked one up for a future on-board air set-up. I decided to go with a 4L80e because of the strength, the overdrive, and the fact that it will bolt straight on to the chevy adapter on the back of my 4bt. I did want an auto this time but the controllers were pretty spendy. Then I read about a trans-go kit that will allow full control of the 4L80e without a computer. I didn't find much on the web about it (drivability, shift quality, etc.) but I decided to go with it anyways (the kit). I feel I'll get the best of both worlds, stays in the gear I choose like a manual but no clutch to deal with on the technical wheeling stuff. It will cushion my drive line some and absorb some of the massive torque built low in the rpm range. I'll be wiring in the lock-up on the torque converter to lock in any gear I want which ='s engine braking and manual-like efficency. Here is the kit I read that instruction booklet 5 times since I've never worked on an auto before. The instructions started to make sense and once I got into it, it wasn't so bad. Inside the box I started to separate the valve body and kept everything in order so I knew which bolts went where. Then I pulled the pump out since there are some internal mods you can make with the kit. Back side of the pump Front side of the pump With the tranny sitting upright (like in a vehicle) this is the bottom of the top half of the valve body. With tranny upright, top of the bottom half of the valve body No turning back now! The kit requires some drilling to the valve body to modify the flow. The separator plate that goes between the two halves of the valve body. Had to plug in some holes and file them smooth. I found some the friction plates behind the pump that looked to be worn out so I changed those out. I didn't dig any deeper and while the wise choice would be to just pull out the internal chunk and rebuild it I didn't want to get into it that far. I did buy a rebuild manual and figure I'll be do a rebuild down the road after studying the manual. I'm just hoping there is life left in the tranny. This is one of the unfortunate compromises to get this thing back on the road sooner. So I cleaned up the valve bodies, got rid of the shavings and old tranny fluid still sitting in the channels and put it back together with some stiffener plates. I hooked up the unit that controls the torque converter lock-up since I'll need that. Overall it went together fine. I did have some roller bearings come out on the overdrive planetary that I had to get back in but once I figured out the trick it just took a little time. Things back together Picked up a 9/16 drill for the holes on the rear spring mounts, drilled them, and after aligning them on the frame I tacked them on. Passenger side Driver side After double checking I burned them into the frame. Threw some paint on them. I think I'll throw a coat of black paint over the whole frame once I'm done grinding off old bracket and welding on new ones. That's it for now. __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=160807 Last edited by boots4; 07-12-07 at 02:01 PM.

07-12-07, 02:01 PM	#72
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 555	thanks Tapage. I always took things apart when I was a kid and really I'm still just tinkering with my toys. It just costs more! __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=160807

07-12-07, 03:05 PM	#74
brokenparts IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Hillsboro, OR TLCA# 16127 Posts: 2,108	hey, why dont you get off your butt and get something done? hehehehehe geez... you're gettin after it! __________________ "Just bump it" I am offended by reality all the time. http://www.cascadecruisers.com/ http://www.myspace.com/zachsu

07-12-07, 04:56 PM	#76
brokenparts IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Hillsboro, OR TLCA# 16127 Posts: 2,108	touche.,cant wait to get mine home though... I think I could have got it done just as fast as they did . No complaints though they're doing a good job and I just dont have the room (or time) to take on the projects that I had done. I still got some fenders to cut, on board air to install (the york), finish my half doors, fab my rear bumper, and then send it over to Metal tech for a cage! __________________ "Just bump it" I am offended by reality all the time. http://www.cascadecruisers.com/ http://www.myspace.com/zachsu

07-13-07, 12:06 AM	#78
brokenparts IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Hillsboro, OR TLCA# 16127 Posts: 2,108	hey, arent we suppose to be talking about your rig? __________________ "Just bump it" I am offended by reality all the time. http://www.cascadecruisers.com/ http://www.myspace.com/zachsu

07-13-07, 03:10 PM	#81
brokenparts IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Hillsboro, OR TLCA# 16127 Posts: 2,108	well... not to further hi-jack this thread but Big Blue is back home now. __________________ "Just bump it" I am offended by reality all the time. http://www.cascadecruisers.com/ http://www.myspace.com/zachsu

07-15-07, 03:55 PM	#83
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 555	Hey Mace, is your 203 orientated straight up and down or does it favor a side. Basically I have the option of clocking the case a few degrees since I get to drill new holes on the 203 for mounting it to the 4L80e adapter. I am curious on how your is set up and if you would change the position any? I'm not after a flat belly so I don't mind if it hangs down some, just don't want it to be and anchor. __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=160807