[GLTHFJ60]

Originally Posted by boots4

It does seem pointless to protect that rocker now but I wasn't planning on cutting them out, just adding sliders anchored off the frame. I'll have to see what kind of slider material I find in the scrap metal area at the local steel yard. If I need to tuck them up higher then I might cut them out and do some body work (the body work is what I'm not looking forward to).

I'm not looking forward to the body work either, but up here in the Northeast I don't have much of a choice.

Truck looks great as usual! Keep up the awesome work!!

[brokenparts]

Originally Posted by GLTHFJ60

I have that same type of rocker damage. Gonna cut them out and weld in some sliders??

Mine looked like that too.. so I just cut them off. Mike's rig is pretty nice though. I'm sure he'll something over-the-top to fix it.

[chicago]

Originally Posted by boots4

Findings:

When I was under the rig just looking around I found that I had a clearance problem with the ram and that it had contacted the oil pan. It must have happened last wheeling trip since I got to flex out the front end on a couple of spots. It actually left a very small dent on the oil pan, nothing needing to be fixed but something needing to be addressed. I had planned to go wheeling so I spent the day before lengthening the bumpstops.

I also found that my passenger side motor mount is going to need replacing if I start wheeling it harder. I'll study it some more to see if I need to redesign/modify that mount for better weight placement.

So I wheeled it yesterday and got some more motivation to get some sliders fabed up and get a front bumper together for some better winch/tow points. Driver side rocker got dented and I have a little gutter work since I peeled it down in one spot (the hole tells me it won't seal up very well). The place we explored had some serious overgrowth so that part wasn't much fun for me. I got detained on two obstacles where being locked front and rear would have helped so I had to use the strap. My jam nut on my driverside TRE kept loosening so the ram would spin the tie rod and bind. Not a problem on the street but sawing back and forth on wet, muddy rocks with a little go pedel applied more force on the parts to loosen them up. I've got my TREs tilted opposite ways (as suggested when mounting a ram to the tie rod so it doesn't spin) so I might try swapping the tilt on them to see if that makes a difference. I wheeled it harder this time and found once I got back into town that it felt "funny" when I try to reverse, like something is rubbing or not meshing correctly. It's only in reverse and I got home just fine. I didn't drive it today to work because I didn't get a chance to further troubleshooting it. Ujoints were fine and nothing looked like it was rubbing the tires so I plan to pull the diff cover and have a look inside. If it's spider gears I've got some to replace them, if it's a tooth on the R&P I'll be working on that 14bolt sooner than I thought. I'll have to go up the line from there if I don't find anything: tcase, doubler, tranny. Any of those will make me sad.

HA!
After my SOA, I lost a top caliper bolt on the DS front in Death Valley...Made a GOD AWFUL noise and scared the SH!T outta me being in the middle of NO WHERE. I was SOOOOOO relieved that was all that was wrong.
Im so glad to hear thats all it was for you to. Id hate for you to have to go back into everything to track down a needle in a haystack.

Nice job!

Chicago

[Dirtgypsy]

[quote=boots4;3737191]Let's see, the second one usually goes faster and considering all of the things I did besides the engine swap the first one took me about 10-11 months to get it on the ground and the next 6+ to continue tuning. I bet I could get a swap and SOA with pre-bought parts done in 3 weekends...


I will take that bet let me know when you want to get started

Originally Posted by FLYINGLOW

You left out the part about waking baby up when you go to bed, momma makes you feed baby, baby cries for 1 hour. Next day you face the wrath of an overtired momma and in the evening you are asleep on the couch before baby... Let us know how it goes.

also the die grinder at 11pm tends to wake them up and piss off wife/ neighbors

you also forgot the cruiser fund is now the Costco Baby diaper/ wipe/ butt ointment fund.

Originally Posted by CreeperSleeper

Come home, play with baby, put baby to bed, put mommy to bed, bring baby monitor into shop...

man dillusional days before kids were some of the best times I had.



Getting back to topic here:

So you are staying away from HG or rings on your current assessment or just trying to get the turbo/ leaks etc worked out before going that route?

Clint

[boots4]

I found a big leak this week in the curved tubing after the intercooler I thought I fixed before. I found out how porous welding can be. This time I think I got it. I haven't put it back together yet but am hoping to have it back together tonight since I also pulled the intercooler to test. I'm also working on a much stronger new base for my tcase shifters. Anyways, back to wrenching.

[boots4]

I pulled the intercooler again to try out some testing. I picked up a bike tube for testing and found that tightening down hose clamps kept poking a hole in the tube so I ended up using duct tape to keep them on. I'd put in more air and test for psi and the tube kept getting bigger and bigger with the 4.5psi being the max. This was the result (my wife came out when she heard it pop):



Then I just cut out the valve and taped it on. It leaked but I was able to get more than 4.5psi in it. I filled up a tub and found my intercooler was bigger than I thought.



Every once in a while it pays having kids. I grabbed the kiddy pool, filled it enough to submerge the intercooler and put it in. I turned up the compresser regulator to 40psi and kept air feeding into it and with the leaking from my "pressure fittings" I at least had 20psi in it. Since my boost gauge fluttered as low as 5psi I figured 20psi was enough for testing. As you can see there were no bubbles so the intercooler was fine.



With no leak from the intercooler it has to come from somewhere else. I grabbed the tube I thought I fixed before for a test. I taped up the ends with the bike tube valve.



The ends weren't air tight but I got enough pressure in it to clearly see several pinholes leaking air which = boost leak.



I cut out that section and welded in a new piece. I'd test it and fill the holes. This I did about 10 times and kept finding air leaks. The last one tested good but I picked up some JB Weld and coated the weld areas just in case. I also coated a few places on the intercooler just in case where the welds didn't look the best cause I don't really want to take out the intercooler again. I gave them a shot of new paint.



While I was down there putting the intercooler back in I noticed my passenger motor mount wasn't looking too healthy.



About 2/3rds of it had separated from the base. I called around and found a replacement and decided this time I wasn't going to drill to soften it up. If the new one starts to show similar signs I'll redesign/modify the bracketry to fix the problem.



I used the engine hoist to lift the engine high enough to wiggle the old mount out and get the new one in. I had to loosen the bottom nut on the other side to lift high enough. I also thought I could get away with leaving the bottom radiator hose on. No such luck and it popped off dumping coolant all over the ground. Guess I'd be doing a coolant flush as well. Anyways it's all back in and I'm getting more vibs transfered to the cab. The intake horn is hitting the hood so that might be part of it. It hits where a beam is on the hood so I just need to notch that for a little more clearance. I have enterained thoughts of making my own intake horn as well and making the connection to the intercooler a straight tube instead of my curved one, we'll see.



With the motor mount issue I didn't complete my shifter mounting bracket but I got it mostly finished. This mounts on just one side of the tranny. I replaced some pan bolts with longer ones so I had a stud sticking up that I could bolt this bracket onto. I moved the mounting points for my 203 H/L and tcase H/L up to reduce throw just a little bit. I might need to clearance a few more things when I hook things up for trial. I'm also planning on finally finshing the shifters by extending them up for better reach from the driver seat.







The other reason I didn't finish is that I took some time to clean up the rig from the last weeking trip. I had to bring out the pressure washer for that one.

Boost did increase and I've reached 21psi so far. I still have the intake plate gasket to replace but the gauge isn't boucing as much so it's nice to have some progress. I also started running some injector cleaner and will run a couple tanks through.

[Tapage]

More diesel, more diesel, more diesel, more diesel, more diesel .. !!!!!

[jeffsclan]

I swear they don't make bike tubes like they used to. It seems like I'm changing the kid's tubes every week. Where do you find the energy?

[boots4]

Originally Posted by jeffsclan

I swear they don't make bike tubes like they used to. It seems like I'm changing the kid's tubes every week. Where do you find the energy?

I'm not finding as much energy as I used to but since I've been working on it almost every week for 1 1/2 years it seems odd not doing anything to it on my days off. So I guess I've forced myself into a routine. Trips and wheeling help me get out and help me set goals. That's usually when I find out what is working and what needs more attention.

[dieselcruiserhead]

Hey Mike,
Just catching up on the rest of your thread here. Been months since I read up on it. Looking great as always! I can't believe the amount of work you have, looking great man! Andre

[boots4]

Spent a day getting a load of wood and a new piece of furniture so my last day off I got to work on Dora.

I put the shifters in to test for clearances and did a little trimming and bending.



Then I took some solid stock and put some bends in them to see how I wanted to extend the shifters so I could reach them, so they'd clear the tranny shifter and the dash, and give enough room for passenger knees.



After I welded on the extentions and smoothed it out I test fit them again and cycled them with the linkage. I ended up extending the 203 L/H linkage 3/4" and the tcase L/H linkage 1/2" to get the shifters to align mostly straight for normal driving. As long as I had enough throw I didn't care where they ended up once engaged but for normal driving it'll look nicer and be out of the way. This base is much more solid than the last one and cycling the shifters felt much better. Engagement felt more positive. I did find a clearance issue on the 203 side of the linkage that wouldn't allow me to engage L. Once I figured that out I tried out all the combos and everything worked. The base will move just a little if I really push on it but I want to try it out in the field to see if that will really be an issue or not. When I had it in stupid Low I held the brakes and gave it a little throttle because I wanted to test if I'm getting pinion wrap. The rear end came up and the front squatted. I then showed my how and got under the rig (I stayed clear of anything that could run me over) and watched as she gave it some throttle. I couldn't see any wrap. I don't doubt that there is some but the thick chevys plus overloads are helping to reduce it.



After this I pulled it out, cut the tops even, gave it the first coat of paint and that's where I stopped. With it getting cold now I'm going to have to address my small heater core leak if I want to take the family out.

[Dirtgypsy]

I think they need big glowing red eye skull shift nobs to finish them off!

Clint

[boots4]

That's too funny, my neighbor said the same thing!

[boots4]

Worked on a few other projects non cruiser related this week but eventually got back to the shifters. Painted and ready to mount. In this pic you get a good shot of the funky angle on the furthest right shifter. This has caused some clearance issues and will once again need to be reworked.



I remember the original cruiser boot had an inner liner and since I get a good amount of engine noise through this opening I thought I'd make a rubber gasket with a hole only as big as needed for shifter travel. I spent way to much time cutting and shaping this piece as it didn't really reduce the noise getting in from that hole all that much.





The base is mounted and the shifters have been adjusted. My tunnel cover is starting to look like swiss cheese. You can also see in this pic how the furthest right shifter bows out. This is what I'll need to fix to gain more clearance since the lever can bump against the body when the engine torques (lever is not in it's furthest forward position in this pic).



Here's how it turned out. I had to readjust the 2-4wd linkage to get the lever to sit where I wanted.





I think I might tackle the heater core the next or following week.

[GLTHFJ60]

Those shifters look pretty badass. Do they feel more direct than the stock setup?

[boots4]

Thanks, I think it feels about the same as the stock single shifter as far as engagement, from what I remember anyways. At least in the driveway it shifts much better than my first setup. The added leverage and more solid base helped. I'll get it offroad and try it out.

[boots4]

I pulled the 2/4wd shifter and did some bending and some grinding and put it back in. It clears everything now and won't bump the side when the motor torques up.



This is certainly not hardcore but alas still part of my build. I wanted to relocate my Sub and finally decided on putting it in a console inbetween the front seats. It's a 10" (nothing special) so I placed it to see what kind of space I was going to need. I tried rear firing, side firing, but really wanted to keep it out of sight and have it firing down.



I moved the tranny shift cable from where I'm pointing to where it is now. This location offers less interference when I was thinking/mocking different ideas on sub placement.



I did some mock up with cardboard and figured out how I was going to support it. I tackled the support part first (how I was going to mount it to the floor) and then started building the box.



I'm using some 3/4" particle board I had stored in the shed so this isn't costing me any supplies, just time. The cut out in the base is for the emergency brake handle and the notch in the support is to clear the shifter cable. The studs in the base are for mounting purposes.



Up with the walls. I need the angle to clear the seats and allow room for "larger statured" occupants. I decided on a 10 degree rake. I chose a height that was comfortable to rest your elbow on so whatever volumn I end up with inside I hope will be enough for the sub.



This is the mounting base I made to clear the sub, support the box and attach to the support on the floor. I just used stuff I had laying around.



I ran out of light and the needed me to watch the kids so this is where I stopped. I put it in Dora to check clearances.







The base was originally just the top part but that wasn't strong enough for the weight and the likely stepping on the console by kids and adults so I added the bottom plate and moved it back a little. It mounts to the existing factory support. I chose not to remove it because I acts as foot protection if there ever is a center rear seat occupant.



Started reading up on my cummins manual and sounds like I got my IP timed wrong. I didn't find TDC when I timed it. Some symptoms would suggested that I'm retarded and not advanced (happens to the best of us).

[1974FJ]

this might belong in the audio/video section..haha.. but i built the box behind my 40 series seats and furthermore i coated the whole box with fiberglass resin. Its a great sealant(a $200 sub is worth $20 without sealing one side of the sub completely). I then covered in some black felt/carpet and its now completely waterproof.

[boots4]

I finished my sub box, sealed it up and threw some spare carpet on it. It's really, really nice having some low end again.

I placed the amp under the passenger seat since I took out the heater (it was leaking and I didn't want to replace it). I elevated it off the floor using some spacers I got from somewhere.



Box/console screwed, glued, and sealed.





I couldn't find the poly fill I bought before but I had a bunch of these foam rings from something that was shipped just sitting in a bag so I thought I'd give them a try. Box filling is meant to slow down the sound waves coming off the back of the woofer which reduces distortion and can make a smaller box act as if it is a larger box so filling a sealed design is a good idea.



This is the bracket made to clear the woofer and support the box using an existing mounting point.





Box and amp hooked up



Carpeted the box. My sub came with a getto-bling LED cone that glows blue. I didn't hook it up before but wanted to see what it looked like. I was hoping for some fun blue light to glow from underneath the box but the light is not bright so it was a waste of time. Anyways that's what that switch is for. I'm going to leave it as a fake engine kill switch and put my real one somewhere else.





I retimed my IP to 15 degrees advanced. I found TDC and rotated the pump with the help of a friend. I had to loosen two fuel lines to allow a little more rotation. The first night I didn't really notice anything different but today I noticed that the engine runs smoother and was quieter! Anything to cut a few dBs can't hurt. I'm also running 2stroke oil in the fuel as a lubricant and I think that's starting to take effect too. I don't work until friday and since I'm very familiar with my commute to work I'll be able to judge any differences better and will report later.

While looking at the engine I noticed that it was getting a bunch of black rubber dust on the front. Well, it finally kicked in to look at the belt and I saw that it had jumped the crank pulley and was rubbing against the block. Since the alternator replacement it has never been right. I thought I fixed it but it needed some more attention so I worked on aligning that alternator even better. I took off the bracket and moved it up by redrilling the holes to get the pulley where the old one was. This also allowed the bottom bracket/brace to be in a better angle to support the altenator when the engine gets into some torque. It did take two setups and adjustments to get it right but the belt stays put now. The first time it jumped off the crank pulley again. I also flipped the belt around but I lost the outer rib and now have a 7-groove belt instead of an 8-groove.



I knew my alignment was out again since the last wheeling trip where the ram loosened up the jam nuts and rotated the tierod. It was toed out so I adjusted it. I looks like my adjustable brace for my ram isn't going to cut it so I'll probably get a real tube clamp and redo the tierod mount. The mounting area for the ubolts is bending. Since tomorrow is Thanksgiving I think I'll take the day off and enjoy my food coma.

[Kief]

I don't know if it is much of an issue but having something where my body could be thrown that won't give or absorb some of the impact would make me think about how safe the speaker box might be.. It looks like you built it pretty solid! Maybe a pad?
Keep up the good work!

[boots4]

If I get thrown into it I probably won't be wearing my seat belt and I always buckle up so I didn't think about that being an issue. However, engaging first on the shifter is not as natural as it used to be, but it's nice having an elbow rest. With an 8" one could make it shorter (wouldn't need as much volumn as a 10"). EDIT: Right now it's a tad higher than thigh high (my thighs) when sitting next to it.

[boots4]

The heater core finally showed up today while I'm at work so I'll get to rip apart the dash next week although I'm not really looking forward to it. If I get enough parts off of the firewall I'll used the other sheet of sound deadener and rip out the factory stuff. I hope two days will be enough to get it swapped out. Just in time because next weekend (Dec 6th) is the club's christmas tree run and with the family coming along we'll need some heat!

The engine is quieter now with the adjustment on the IP and with the radio turned up on the freeway I don't really hear the diesel.

[Tapage]

Mike you finaly test your boost an piing .. how much boost are you running right now .. ?

[boots4]

I need to pick up some new gaskets for the intake plate and elbow cause I'm still only registering about 20psi. It was interesting last week, we were driving around and at a part/mid throttle position I saw the boost gauge really bounce so I know the turbo is willing to spool higher with the current settings if..I mean when I can get it sealed up. Overall gauge flutter is down but still existant so I know there are psi's escaping.

I'm wondering if that intake plate might be warped some so I'm thinking of having it checked/machined at a local hot rod shop to make it flat. Maybe it's always been this way or maybe it took too much heat when the upper radiator hose separated on my trip to California earlier this year. There is a cummins parts house on the other side of town, I just haven't gone down yet and picked up some new gaskets. I'm pretty sure I want to make my own intake elbow to gain some hood clearance but was waiting to redo the gaskets when I get to that project. I think I'll just get an extra gasket for whenever I get to that project. The heater core should be my next project and if I get that done quickly I'll go grab those gaskets. I still have upper 20s maybe 30 psi as a goal so I'll eventually get there. Sorry Tapage, I'll get there soon.



Another good thing about the timing advance on my IP is that it cleared up the haze I was getting under moderate-hard acceleration. I don't mind a little haze when pushing it but I know the missing psi is going to clear that up so adding more diesel now is just going to make that darker. I'm not into pouring coal out the tailpipe on the daily commute. The EGTs came down just a little too and it cools down quicker when idling (perhaps some of that is the colder temps since winter is about here).

I'm also gearing up to swap out my vacuum system that controls the line pressure in my tranny to an electric version. That project has been on the plate for a while now but I think it's coming up. Wow, still lots to do, or at least a lot I still want to do.

[boots4]

This one I wasn't looking forward to. Replacing the heater core. In all it wasn't bad and if all you do is replace it than it'll take the decent part of a day. I however, figured since I'm in there...

First I started disassembling the dash. Taking my three gauge pod apart was probably the most time consuming of that task.



I removed the bolts to the metal lower dash and in hindsight the next time I'd only remove bolts right of the center section. I didn't have to take it off but having it loose was helpful to jiggle things out. The first part that comes out is the AC unit. I can see how it would be pretty challenging to try and replace the heater core but keep the AC charged, but since mine wasn't it came out pretty easily.



Good thing too since it was filthy in there. A mixture of pet hair, cigar tar, and nature elements.



You might be able to leave the blower motor in but I decided to remove it so it came out next.



This is looking up under the dash where "fresh" air comes in. Yup, since I'm in there I might as well clean that up.



With the ducting all removed I took out the Heater box. This is also the unit that diverts to dash vents, floor, and defrost with a combination of flaps. With this out it's easy to pull the heater core out.



I think it might have been leaking from that crack around the neck.



These tubes get inserted into the heater core and are basically held on by a clip. Those o-rings help seal the tube. I got some new, little bit thicker o-rings from the hardware store to replace the old ones in this pic.



Lots of leg room now.



Well, since I was in there I decided to clean EVERYTHING. I disassembled the boxes and cleaned them inside and out. I tore off all the old foam and put on new foam on all of the flaps and sealing surfaces for each unit. This is putting in the new core.



Next I got into the AC unit, disassembled it and cleaned it. I should get better air flow now and it will be ready when I plan on getting AC hooked up next summer. This is what it looks like inside. The box is actually lined with what feels like styrofoam.



All clean and ready to go back in. Heater unit on the left, AC unit in the middle, Blower unit on the right, and ducting.

[brokenparts]

Are worried about being warm for the C-tree run?

[boots4]

Since I'm in there I decided to reinsulate the interior firewall. I pulled the old one out and traced it on the other sheet of insulation I have left over from the hood.



The firewall has a good dose of those tar sheets that line the floor but I covered it all with my DexDamp stuff before I put on the foam barrier sheet. So this is with DexDamp.



The driver side does not have any tar insulation so insulating is going to help.



I cut out the holes in the foam barrier and did some trial fits.



The passenger side is in. Look hard you'll see it, the texture it different. It needed a little more trimming and all I used was the original tabs sticking off of the firewall. I used no glue. I also ended up with three pieces to make it easier to fit it.





I was having a heck of a time getting the clips back on the tubes with both the original and thicker o-rings. Honestly I didn't like the design in the first place so I found some 3/4" hose and basically coupled it. I filled the core with water and put it on it's side. I then capped one tube end and blew into the other and didn't see any leakage so I think it will hold up but we'll have to see. Things can change with more pressure and hot coolant.



With the insulation done I was ready to put it back together. I put the heater unit in and was reminded again that japanese steel doesn't take as much torque and broke a stud. So I had to pull the unit and fix the stud. I ground it down, drilled it out and replaced it with a bolt.



I got the tubes through the firewall and bolted the heater unit back in place and recalibrated my instinctual torque wrench (didn't tighten the piss out of it). I hooked up the controls.



Next would be the blower unit but I still needed to clean the fresh air screen. I popped off the windshield wiper motor and started the cleaning process. I was very suprised I had no rust in there because I had an inch deep of dried mud in there that I had to loosen up and vacuum out.



With that cleaned as far as I could reach I put the blower unit back in and hooked up the controls.



Last I put in the AC unit and plugged it back into the system.



I re-routed my heater hoses in the engine bay and removed the hardlines that supplied coolant to the under seat heater unit that I pulled out earlier this year. I was able to eliminate a hose and a t-fitting by reworking the hoses. I removed the AC lines when I pulled the unit and will be leaving them out for now. Then I got the dash back in so it was driveable. I only got the boost gauge hooked up on the pod so I've got that to do before saturday (suppose to be the club christmas tree run).

It was pretty humid this morning but it seemed like it was getting fogged up inside the truck as when I was at stop signs on my way to work. I realized since I've been typing this that I forgot to hook up the blower motor resister connection (actually on the heater unit) so the blower motor wasn't blowing. It maybe just need to heat up and dry things out but I'll be watching the floor board and coolant level to see if I got it right or if I got a dud replacement core. Hope not, although it would go alot faster this time since I don't have all that other stuff to do.

As for the insulation I can tell it's reduced more dBs. I only finished this last night and driven it to work so i haven't carried a conversation yet but I can hear the radio at a lower volumn than before. This is with no carpet and I think it's pretty decent inside. The only other area I haven't insulated is the rear quarters and tailgate. Then I will be done with that.

That was a lot to do in 2 days.

[boots4]

Originally Posted by brokenparts

Are worried about being warm for the C-tree run?

Yeah, don't want the kids to be miserable because they have to ride in daddy's truck.

While I use the family as an excuse I was ready to quit seeing my breath in the morning on my way to work. The heater would work I just didn't use it because I didn't want a puddle of coolant on the floorboards.

Are you going on the run?

[brokenparts]

I wish I was... but I think I use the time to try to get some more done on the cruiser.

[redcorn]

Nice work under the dash.....

I have replaced my blower and cleaned out the debris last Winter, it is one tough job

Good Luck on the Tree Run, wish I was there.....

john