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Old 09-17-08, 12:02 PM   #631 (permalink)
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Gifu as you know advancing the timing will bring down your EGTs a little. Perhaps the way you routed your exhaust is somewhat restrictive (more stuff you already know) and that shows up as more heat. Something I haven't started looking at yet since I still got psi leaks are the injectors. Maybe they are worn out and not atomizing fuel well enough. What kinds of thing have yout tried already to increase boost? It's not uncommon for the stepvan engines to be timing retarded and power screw deficient. Do you have an intercooler?


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Old 09-17-08, 01:59 PM   #632 (permalink)
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But if you have enought fuel, no matter what if you advance of retard your IP timing, you would get the same boost as always ( at lease in Toyota Factory turbo engines ) .. more fuel at low rpm ( low boost condicions ) of decreased top speed but the same level of boost ..

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 09-17-08, 05:32 PM   #633 (permalink)
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I haven't done... a thing. Haven't checked timing, injectors, pump, etc. Soon. I wonder, if the injectors are drippy/pissers, would it cause excessive smoke? I mean, could you have poor atomization, causing poor burn, causing high EGT... but still have very little/no smoke?
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Old 09-17-08, 06:47 PM   #634 (permalink)
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But if you have enought fuel, no matter what if you advance of retard your IP timing, you would get the same boost as always ( at lease in Toyota Factory turbo engines ) .. more fuel at low rpm ( low boost condicions ) of decreased top speed but the same level of boost ..
True, I was suggesting timing to bring his EGTs down. That way he could add more fuel and see if he gets more boost.

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Old 09-17-08, 07:01 PM   #635 (permalink)
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I haven't done... a thing. Haven't checked timing, injectors, pump, etc. Soon. I wonder, if the injectors are drippy/pissers, would it cause excessive smoke? I mean, could you have poor atomization, causing poor burn, causing high EGT... but still have very little/no smoke?
I'll have to study up on injectors to see what symptoms are caused by what conditions, just haven't looked into those yet.

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Old 09-18-08, 09:34 AM   #636 (permalink)
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weekly update

After my warning for flares and mud flaps I wanted to at least get something on there and had planned to put mud flaps on it anyways. I looked online at kits and quickly decided I'd make my own. I found some trucker flaps at the local Flying J truck stop. They were only $12.99 per flap, way cheaper than what I found online. They are massive (and these were the smaller ones).



I went to the hardware store to see about square tubing and again quickly decided I was going to find scrap at home that I can get to work. I found some pipe that would work so I could make them removeable.



The law as explained to me states that mud flaps must extend down to the center of the axle. I don't need all the length that I have but might leave these until they become a problem. They were pretty simple to make.



Here's a close-up of the disconnects. The larger pipe had a seam on the inside that I needed to file off to get the smaller tube to slide in. The only other thing I'll probably do it to retain the flap so it doesn't catch a lug and get pulled over the tire. I've taken them on the freeway and they flap some but haven't been pulled over the tire yet.



Thanks to Zach (brokenparts), I got another front shaft to play with. After looking and measuring I decided to cut off my CV and weld it on his old shaft. This is cutting the single joint yoke off the new shaft. Then I just took a hammer and punch to tap out the yoke.



I've got more parts to play with now.



I put the tube in the vice to hold it and put the slip in the tube to get some measurments. I leveled the yoke so I had something to match.



I inserted the CV on the other end and aligned it so the joints would be in phase. I matched the level and then welded it up. I used two passes to make sure all was well.



Here it is complete. I might end up retubing it later since it was three inches shorter than my ideal length; however, with 10" of slip I still have plenty of engagement. I put it on and called it a day.



I've been having some dash light issues. The left combo gauge was acting like a strobe and blinking quickly and my tranny temp gauge light went out. I pulled the dash to investigate and retraced my wiring. I then pulled and tested the bulbs. The bulb I used in the combo gauge was a 5-led and only three were working and for some reason blinking. I swapped it with my non-functioning tack gauge and had no problems so I think that bulb was on it's way out. I figure the tranny temp bulb burned out so I didn't get to it since I have to take the gauge out of the pod to get to it. I'll get some on order and get a few spares now that I found that I like that white color I was using.

I reindexed my throttle arm on my injection pump to the 2-3 marks instead of the 1-4 marks it was lined up with. This made the idle screw useful again and readjusted the idle. I did this because when I turned up the power screw the idle wouldn't return to the setting I had, not a run-away condition just not idling low enough.

I then started to detail the front end with a compound and final polish. The paint has oxidization and is dirty. This has really improved the shine and finish. It takes time to get it all done but it will be easier to maintain once I finish the process. I'm sure this hasn't been done to the vehicle for years if ever.

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Old 09-18-08, 10:12 AM   #637 (permalink)
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dang you're quick... looks good man!

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Old 09-18-08, 10:54 AM   #638 (permalink)
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dang you're quick... looks good man!
It ended up being real simple with what I had so I threw it together. Hopefully I'll get a chance to test it out at Cruise the Woods when I'm done with the check point.

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Old 09-18-08, 11:44 AM   #639 (permalink)
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Yep it was intercooled.

Boots, props on one of the best diesel build up threads ever!

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Old 09-19-08, 12:05 PM   #640 (permalink)
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True, I was suggesting timing to bring his EGTs down. That way he could add more fuel and see if he gets more boost.
actually I have my rotoy pump advanced 4 degrees ( from totally of 8 that you can advance it ) and my EGT fly really fast .. also I have plenty of diesel available under my skiny pedal anycase ..

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 09-19-08, 01:42 PM   #641 (permalink)
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Tapage I just want to make sure we're on the same page and that I'm not mis-interpreting you. I know you've been tweaking your diesel and you know this stuff well.

This timing page I found before when I started learning (still learning) more about tweaking my engine helped clarify what timing does to a diesel . Diesel Timing

What else have you done to your pump?

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Old 09-19-08, 04:47 PM   #642 (permalink)
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I'm not sure if we share the same tipe of pump .. but In my experience ..advance the timing of my IP don't lower the EGT .. but I do it at the same time as I increase the fuel settings.

Now I can blew my pyro if I want .. sure I have plenty of care each time that i push the skiny to the metal .. don't go over 1250 ..

But the mayor advantage that I get from advancing the timing it's the low end torque at hard start .. and that why I do .. due to my stock gearing and my auto tranny ..

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 09-23-08, 12:43 PM   #643 (permalink)
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Boots, Thanks again for the great thread. I've learned a ton just reading along.

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Old 09-24-08, 09:29 AM   #644 (permalink)
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weekly update

Glad you like it Jeff.


The vibs from the tires were getting worst so I decided to research some more balancing options. I'm still really drawn to the dynamic balancing idea so I looked at other media to put inside the tires that was still cheap. Unfortunately the options are limited and I decided to try out Zinc plated BBs. So in order to get the airsoft out and put in the bbs I needed to break down the tires. Being cheap and wanting to do it myself anyways I ended up buying some tire spoons and made a bead breaker. I didn't come up with the idea, just copied it from something I found online that mounts on the bottom of a hilift jack. It uses the holes on the jack base to line up and not slip off. I made the curved plated 3 inches tall and just traced the plate for the base size. I heated it up, bent it a little and then welded it together. It was 1/4" scrap I had laying around.



I first tried it out on the rear bumper on an old trailer tire I have laying around but it needed more weight so I moved to the front. Since I've got plenty of weight up front it worked well and popped the bead on a rusted steel trailer tire. I moved up to my 38s and I only had resistance with one, the other three let the bead pop right off. On the one I had resistance I used a rubber mallet to help persuade it off while under the weight of the bead breaker. This is how I placed it on the tire.



This is after a couple of cranks on the handle watching for any slipping or shifting.



I got out my new tire spoons and started playing on my rims. I tested them out on a steel rim to try and get the feel of them. On my first aluminum rim I bent the lip in two spots getting a feel for how to use them but by the second rim I started getting a better feel and on the third and fourth rim I had it down. I was trying to pull too much over the rim and found taking smaller bites worked much better.

I looked inside expecting to see the airsoft pellets broken up or damaged but I didn't. They held up just fine so that made me curious to if bbs were even going to work.



Well, I was this far so I might as well try them out and see if I get any change. I vacuumed the airsoft out and put in the bbs. I just poured the whole container into each tire ~20+ oz.



The other reason I wanted to get inside was to fix the leaky valve stems. Here's what one looked like.



The rubber on the old ones was cracking and in pour shape. I couldn't get replacement groments at the place I bought the tire spoons at so I ended up getting 4 new ones. The new is on the left and the others are the old ones.



I used the starter fluid bead reseating method of flammable fun. No matter how many I did I still flinched every time the "controlled" ignition popped that bead back on the rim. On my second rim it would pop the bead back off the rim due to the vacuum created inside the tire. I did that a couple times with the same results. I then got my blow nozzle on my compressor, bumped the regulator to 100psi and got ready to play with fire again. Once the bead popped back on I grabbed my blow gun, put the nozzle in the valve stem hole and started to blow (no valves were inserted while reseating the bead). This put some pressure inside the tire basically equalizing the pressure and kept it from unseating the bead. The first time I had to tell my daughter to go sit on the step away from what I was doing before I lite it up. The second time she never came close.

I've only driven it this morning to work and the results are mixed. The bbs seem to help balance better while at speed but I still get some decend vibs around 40mph (part of my DW problem) and they don't do so well at those speeds around curves. I know I won't be satisfied with this so my initial thoughts are to take out the bbs and get the tires balanced traditionally. I think that because the tires are so wide dynamic balancing might not be the best choice. My choice of media could also be the problem and I've at least eliminated two materials. There are lots of other materials out there but not lots of funding to try them out.

The guy at the tire supply shop gave me some samples. These are Equal samples and problems they see.



This is counterbalance. They are glass balls.



I've tried out dynabeads on my last rig. I was getting vibs but my rims were a little bent and I could have had a bad rear pinion angle so I'm not sure the beads weren't working.



I got some tie-down tracks for a present last christmas and thought I'd throw them in.



I put some right by the rear seat, on the sides like above, and one at the back. It was originally two tracks but I cut one up to give me a few more mounting choices.



I'll be helping out the Cruise the Woods this coming weekend so it'll be nice to be in the dirt.

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Old 09-24-08, 10:32 AM   #645 (permalink)
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I got some tie-down tracks for a present last christmas and thought I'd throw them in.



I put some right by the rear seat, on the sides like above, and one at the back. It was originally two tracks but I cut one up to give me a few more mounting choices.

.
Two questions with these tie down tracks. If you don't mind, where did you get them? Secondly, it looks like they are attached with self tapping screws of some type instead of bolts with fender washers on the back. How do they attach, and how secure do you feel they are? I use a ratchet strap to secure my junk in the back while off-roading, which can obviously produce a ton of tension.

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Old 09-24-08, 11:18 AM   #646 (permalink)
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My intended use is the same as yours.

The kit came with both counter-sunk metal screws and counter-sunk fine threads with nylocks and fender washers. The screws are spaced every 6 inches apart and I used the fine threads on the sides and the close-to-seat mounts because I could get to the backside in those locations. I couldn't get to the backsides of the rear most bar and used the metal screws for it. I only put 4 in the rear bar because I wasn't sure if I wanted to cut that one and put a couple of bars in other places.

They have a website on one of the labels so I'll go out at lunch time and get that. I imagine it will have ratings on the website. I will test out the configuration this weekend as all I have is that spare tire racheted down. That seemed solid so far.

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Old 09-24-08, 01:44 PM   #647 (permalink)
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those tracks look like the tracks used in helicopters and airplanes for mounting seats and tie down rings. In our helicopters they are mounted with 10-32 screws but I don't know the load rating... Very handy and versatile.

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Old 09-24-08, 03:30 PM   #648 (permalink)
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The tracks are called Core-trax and here's the website: Core - Products

It's doesn't talk about weight limits on the tracks but does talk about 500 lbs per load lock (accessories page).

I'll see if I can find any info on the instruction sheet that came with it.

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Old 10-02-08, 11:23 AM   #649 (permalink)
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weekly update

Took saturday off and drove out to TSF on friday night for the Cruise the Woods '08 event. I was assisting with a checkpoint. Planned on meeting up with DirtyGipsy to caravan to the camp ground. On the way out of Portland I put it in 3rd, locked the converter and gave it a little juice to get up the hill (traffic was too slow to go into overdrive) and really started getting some vibs from the rear tires. It was the worst I've ever felt and it wasn't going away. I exited a couple miles later because the vibs weren't going away and I couldn't find a speed/load that would reduce it. I thought maybe I had a ujoint going but I check the ujoints, lugnuts, ubolts, leaf bolts, steering even though it was definitely coming from the back. After confirming there was nothing loose I got back on the road and just kept it easy and got this weird cyclical vib coming in and out. Just as I reached the exit road to meet up with DirtyGipsy he pulled up to the stop sign so I kept going straight and he pulled in behind me and we made it into camp. We went back out and got some firewood, made a fire and chatted for awhile. The next day we woke up early and got our instructions for the event and I followed another member to our checkpoint. We wheeled up the trail that the group would be coming down.

I didn't end up fitting under the tree.





While we waited I changed out my burned out headlight. We didn't have much to do and ended up closing down our checkpoint due to time constraints so we wheeled a trail on the way back to camp.



Fellow member's FJ80



The event went well and I stayed another night in the hopes to do a little wheeling the next day. The group got up, got a few things taken care of and those left went on a couple trails. Dora's not a virgin anymore, she's been mounted.



Came up to the mini rock garden and had CreeperSleeper spot me. The throw for my doubler is off so I couldn't get it in stupid low but Dora did just fine. Here's a couple of shots on the garden. I'm going do a little picture whoring.

















Up top on SaddleBack mountain (I think)



If you are interested in other pics from the trip you can see them here starting with post 39: Cruisn' The Woods 2008

On the way home I got the same vibs so I resolved to yank the tires and pull those BBs out of the tires that I just put in last week. After I got all that done I was curious and took it for a drive. Vibs gone! I took it on the freeway this morning up to 70mph and very little vib! So I'll be driving around without any balance. Don't get me wrong, they aren't glass smooth but have no where near the vibs I was getting before, it just feels like the vibs from the big lugs hitting the road with no thumper (Bambi reference) syndrome.

Let me say that the diesel performed GREAT! I filled up before the trip and came back home with 1/2 tank left. I never had to give it full thottle although mud will be different. So far I really enjoy this combo and look forward to getting out more often. Wheeling an auto is great, especially one that stays where you put it.

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Old 10-02-08, 01:50 PM   #650 (permalink)
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Took saturday off and drove out to TSF on friday night for the Cruise the Woods '08 event. I was assisting with a checkpoint. Planned on meeting up with DirtyGipsy to caravan to the camp ground. On the way out of Portland I put it in 3rd, locked the converter and gave it a little juice to get up the hill (traffic was too slow to go into overdrive) and really started getting some vibs from the rear tires. It was the worst I've ever felt and it wasn't going away. I exited a couple miles later because the vibs weren't going away and I couldn't find a speed/load that would reduce it. I thought maybe I had a ujoint going but I check the ujoints, lugnuts, ubolts, leaf bolts, steering even though it was definitely coming from the back. After confirming there was nothing loose I got back on the road and just kept it easy and got this weird cyclical vib coming in and out. Just as I reached the exit road to meet up with DirtyGipsy he pulled up to the stop sign so I kept going straight and he pulled in behind me and we made it into camp. We went back out and got some firewood, made a fire and chatted for awhile. The next day we woke up early and got our instructions for the event and I followed another member to our checkpoint. We wheeled up the trail that the group would be coming down.

I didn't end up fitting under the tree.





While we waited I changed out my burned out headlight. We didn't have much to do and ended up closing down our checkpoint due to time constraints so we wheeled a trail on the way back to camp.



Fellow member's FJ80



The event went well and I stayed another night in the hopes to do a little wheeling the next day. The group got up, got a few things taken care of and those left went on a couple trails. Dora's not a virgin anymore, she's been mounted.



Came up to the mini rock garden and had CreeperSleeper spot me. The throw for my doubler is off so I couldn't get it in stupid low but Dora did just fine. Here's a couple of shots on the garden. I'm going do a little picture whoring.

















Up top on SaddleBack mountain (I think)



If you are interested in other pics from the trip you can see them here starting with post 39: Cruisn' The Woods 2008

On the way home I got the same vibs so I resolved to yank the tires and pull those BBs out of the tires that I just put in last week. After I got all that done I was curious and took it for a drive. Vibs gone! I took it on the freeway this morning up to 70mph and very little vib! So I'll be driving around without any balance. Don't get me wrong, they aren't glass smooth but have no where near the vibs I was getting before, it just feels like the vibs from the big lugs hitting the road with no thumper (Bambi reference) syndrome.

Let me say that the diesel performed GREAT! I filled up before the trip and came back home with 1/2 tank left. I never had to give it full thottle although mud will be different. So far I really enjoy this combo and look forward to getting out more often. Wheeling an auto is great, especially one that stays where you put it.
Glad to hear the trip went well Mike... I wish I could have been there. Told you wheelin with an auto is like cheating.

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Old 10-02-08, 01:51 PM   #651 (permalink)
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oh yeah, you have a headlight out.

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Old 10-05-08, 11:11 AM   #652 (permalink)
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whats this for?


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Old 10-05-08, 08:06 PM   #653 (permalink)
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Yeah I know it's a little small but it's better than nothing. The boggers I have are on 8 lug rims and if I decide to swap in the 14bolt those will be ready as spares. I'll just have to get 4 other tires and rims

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Old 10-06-08, 08:10 AM   #654 (permalink)
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Hey, that 14bolt is a C&C 14 bolt (measures ~63" WMS to WMS) I assume you plan to run a D60 front? Youll need to shorten the front 60 if you do. Have you given this much thought? Im doing this on my 40 now and it seems that maybe 62" up front will fit right with the stock perches. idk, i like the idea but its gonna be more money and alot more work. Whats your plan for this?

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Old 10-06-08, 04:52 PM   #655 (permalink)
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I'd narrow the 14 bolt and get adapters for the front to run 8 lug stuff. I need to double check what ratio the 14bolt is (I believe it's 4.10), do some actual measurements to see if I can make it offset (something about just shortening the long side and running two short shafts) and to see what width I'd need to get close to the front with the adapters. Since there are two hub options for the 14bolt that gives me more options for narrowing. Definitely would need to convert to disc brakes and do a little shaving. I would also plan to run a Detroit in it. If I swap out the rear axle I'd only do it for an upgrade to something stronger and full floating.

The idea is to set it up (locker doesn't count cause I have to buy one for my rear now) for a similar price as buying polys. Still debating whether I really need it or not. I could sell my current axle and recover some of the cost. For now I'm just going to run the cruiser axle and get to know Dora off road.

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Old 10-06-08, 04:59 PM   #656 (permalink)
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Oh ok,
dont know if you are aware or not, but you can run 15" wheels with the 14bolt drums with no shaving.

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Old 10-07-08, 08:37 AM   #657 (permalink)
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If I go 8 lug I'll most likely step up to 17" rims since there is decent tire selection for them.

As for shaving I meant the diff for a little more clearance.

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Old 10-09-08, 01:50 PM   #658 (permalink)
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If ya go Chevy axles, I may be interested in your stock ones... I have a 4Runner build I should get started on!

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Old 10-09-08, 03:15 PM   #659 (permalink)
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Quote:
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If ya go Chevy axles, I may be interested in your stock ones... I have a 4Runner build I should get started on!
better finish before the baby comes.

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Old 10-11-08, 12:24 AM   #660 (permalink)
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So I just bought an FJ62...


...If I can find a step van, and drop them both off at your house - how much and how long for you to do my diesel conversion?!?!?!

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