[brokenparts]

the flex-a-lite style ones you can pick up at napa or schucks aren't worth much...I bought one and wished I had spent a couple bucks on a decent one.

These seem to work better from talking to others:

B&M 70268 - B&M SuperCooler Oil Coolers - summitracing.com

or

Earl's Performance 42510ERL - Earl's Performance Temp-A-Cure Fluid Coolers - summitracing.com

[brokenparts]

Flex-a-lite 3818 - Flex-a-lite TransLife Transmission Coolers - summitracing.com = poop.

[redcorn]

Originally Posted by brokenparts

42s and some double beadlocks. 13/64 for the drill bit. Makes a big difference. Make sure to run a decent cooler or you might run into cavitation problems. Be careful when you pull the restrictor, the spring wants to pop outta there and dont loose the bushing! Ask me how I know!

Dude, you know you want a buggy...................

Save the 60 as it is, wheel it and go for a buggy!!!

I bet Mark and LT would be able to build an awesome chassis for you.

[brokenparts]

Just like Kling-on said... gotta wheel whatcha got! If my body was nice like boots I'd consider it but my 60 body is hacked on and beat...No room for a buggy either!

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by brokenparts

I have some 39.5s for sale.

Ohh Lord .. !

Those 42" sure math with 1 Ton axles ..

Boots ... thanks for the pics .. great, big time, yes I'm running my factory Toyota Steering box and yes .. too my Tencha is as normal ( joke for Aussies ) world driven .. LHD.

[Tapage]

BTW I forgot .. Boots, why not disconecting the wastegate and take a test run .. just to know if you see ( blocking the port at the compresor ) more than 18 PSI .. this discard the wastergate adjusting failure.

[boots4]

Originally Posted by Tapage

BTW I forgot .. Boots, why not disconecting the wastegate and take a test run .. just to know if you see ( blocking the port at the compresor ) more than 18 PSI .. this discard the wastergate adjusting failure.

My actuator and linkage is behind the turbo so getting to it won't be a five minute job. I do plan on holding the gate shut to test that out like you suggested.



You can see that I have a bunch of stuff in front of it now and the starter is in the way from underneath. But I'll figure something out. (Time for an oil filter relocater to make removing that 4" elbow easier)

[Tapage]

Not easy .. maybe as dificult as I have on my both Turbo Cruisers .. I notice in Tencha that have the wastegate in the same place ( in between the Turbo and the block ) that the heat make the spring and the hole wastegate system more soft ..

What I do in Marilu ( learing in the process ) it's run a halmarks boost controler ( blocker type ) it allow me to route and block the comrpesor signal ( boost ) that goes to the wastegate, before it reach the wastegate and try to open it ..

So I place the wastega in much more comfi place ..

[1974FJ]

Hey, I dont know that the intake plate needs 30+ lbs of torque. The factory torque spec for it is 18ft/lbs. Just a fyi. Also, on the valve side of the intake plate, you may want to consider using some form of thread locker to prevent blow-by when pressurized. Have you pressure tested all your intake plumbing? with the intercooler and all, it wouldnt be crazy to have a leak some where at a joint or hose connection. You could disconnect the hose to the top of the intake plate and plug the system and add a valve stem and check to see if you cant hear the leak....just an idea.

[boots4]

I had a bit of a challenge finding long bolts for the intake plate. I finally found some at tacoma screw. The long ones were 8mm x 1.25 x 80. The only flange head they had was in the 10.9 class and the heads are actually bigger so I get a little more surface area for clamping. I wrapped them with teflon tape and tighten them up. This time none of the screws felt like they were stretching so I think it was a good idea to replace them since I had to open it up.



I also found a plug for the wastegate signal line. So with the actuator disconnected, the line plugged and the intake plate tightened up I still have a leak. Yup, the gauge even bounces more but I did see 1 psi increase. I'll just keep plugging away at it and pressurizing the system may be the best bet.



My wife and kids have been pretty good about the whole project but even I needed a quick break so we headed to the beach to have some famliy time. There are certain beaches here in oregon you can drive on so it was a good chance to see if I float or sink, on the sand of course.

We found a great place out passed Astoria called Warrington OR. It's where the columbia river opens into the pacific ocean. We drove around and found some beach access. We were the only ones on this beach and the water was shallow with a gradual decline being great for kids to splash around. I motored around in 2WD the whole time.









We spent a couple of hours there and had lunch. The wind started to pick up so we packed up and went exploring some more. We found another beach with access and drove out there. This one had more people on it with all kinds of street vehicles on it. We got a few waves from other toyota's but the one I was impressed with was a semi on the beach!





This is my favorite pic of that day.



I even put a small video together from a couple of clips.

YouTube - Wheeling in Warrington OR

[boots4]

The next day I had the chance to do a little wheeling so I met a friend and we headed out around Estacada OR. We planned on a light trip to test things out. We got in and found a good obstacle to try. It had a vertical face of about 3ft.



I bumped up against it and just added a little more right foot and the front end popped right up.



I lightly bumped it a couple of times to see if the back would pop up but since I have no locker out back I'd end up spinning a tire and loosing traction. This is when I heard a crunching sound come from the rear end. I'll be needing a new tail light.



I decided to give another harder bump with more throttle and I found my weak link. My homemade front driveshaft snapped. If I would have been able to keep all the splines I think it would have held up but this broke right passed the weld. Talking to my friend I think he came up with a good idea and it doesn't look like I'll need all the slip I built into this shaft so I'll keep this female and get another male to replace my broken one. I'll have to lengthen the tube again.



I took the shaft off so as not to run the risk of it binding and blowing out my Tcase. My buddy asked if I wanted to park it and wheel with him but I told him I'll just play around in 2WD. So we went exploring and I followed him around. There were a couple of spots I needed a yank if I couldn't bump over an obstacle but I still had fun. He was impressed on all the places I could get to in 2WD and I was impressed too since it's an open rear end. Those tires just kept on biting.

We just left the strap on the front after the first yank to make it easier. We found some mud pits (more like deep puddles) to play in.



And then we found a nice rocky climb to play on. I did park mine and scout/ride along with him on this section. It will be pretty challenging when it gets wet and we'll definitely be coming back to this one. So we wheeled up in his rig and got to the top and it was the top of this mountain with a fantastic view!



These are two shots looking down at different spots.





Second incline section



After that we headed back down the moutain to call it a day. So for carnage I broke a front shaft, got a few more scratches (they'll buff out ), and cracked my rear tail light. On his rig he busted a lower shock mount on his front axle. Good testing day and good to re-energize for building the last few things to pound around in it.



I was turning onto my street to my place (10 houses from mine!) and a cop two cars back and in the other lane jumped over and pulled me over. I got the ol' fender flares and mud flaps warning so it looks like that'll be my project next week. Mud flaps will be easy but flares might be a little more difficult. I might just see if I can get by with flaps for a while.

I also slapped together another little video from clips.

YouTube - Wheeling in Estacada OR 9-2009

[brokenparts]

Wow, where is that in Estacada? I'd like to check that out. Looks like you guys had a good time. I might also have a solution to your front driveline problem depending on the length you need. Also looks like you'll need to come over so we can bend you up some protection for your rear.

Love that Diesel sound!!!

[boots4]

We're wanting to go out there and map stuff out at least once a month and I think we're wanting to go more so I'll let you know when we go next. There were a couple of posted no-motor vehicle signs on some of the trails so we stayed off of those but these were still good.

I'll really do need to start bending tube so we'll get together soon and I'm very interested in your front driveshaft . Even the rear if it becomes available and things fit up. What size dies do you have so I can pick up some tube?

[brokenparts]

I'm going to be down for awhile (currently pulling my axles) so I probably wont be able to make it out on the next run you guys make out there. My current driveshafts are spoken for but I had a nice one that driveline tech made for me that I was using for a spare. I'll measure for it for you tonight extended and in all the way. It's all yours if it'll fit...

Just one die right now... 1.75.

[boots4]

You can always ride along and be photo behach

1.75 is the size I was hoping for. Do you have a decent place to get tube on your side? The steel yard on Columbia Blvd only carries 1.75 in .095 wall and I'd like to aim for .120 wall. The one out in clackamas didn't have any 1.75 .120 wall.

Are you taking pics of your tear down? We always like pics!

[brokenparts]

Yep, I'll be taking some pics along the way... not sure I could compare to this thread but I'll do my best.

No great deals on this side either. I usually get my stuff through Forest Grove Iron but they usually dont stock much tubing either. They can have what you need within a couple days though. I got my .120 through special order with the steel yard... I dont think I'll ever use them for tubing again. Sometimes they have good deals in their "overstock" for flat bar and what not but overall I'm not impressed with them.

[jeffsclan]

Looks like it works good. Nice and flexy (and sexy) . Thanks for the off road porn. Your diesel is too cool.

[Tapage]

Thanks for the pics .. the story but the best sure, the video ! thanks .. sound like a good baby this 4BT .. so you found your leak . ?

[boots4]

Originally Posted by Tapage

.. so you found your leak . ?

Nope, I'm still looking for it and I think I had a couple so while I've fixed some others are showing up. If all I need is more fuel I'll feel pretty stupid but that fluttering boost gauge seems to indicate I haven't found them all yet. So I still feel like I haven't really seen what this engine can do yet from free power although I test it out everytime I get on the freeway .

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by boots4

Nope, I'm still looking for it and I think I had a couple so while I've fixed some others are showing up. If all I need is more fuel I'll feel pretty stupid but that fluttering boost gauge seems to indicate I haven't found them all yet. So I still feel like I haven't really seen what this engine can do yet from free power although I test it out everytime I get on the freeway .

I saw that you already disconect your wastegate .. but not if you see more boost .. and together if you adjust to more fuel if you get more boost .. ?

how are your EGT's .. ?

The 4BT use a butterfly at the intake or any other sort of blokage that can cause a turbo spike .. ?

[boots4]

On our trip out to the coast I hit a couple of climbs that I pulled in 3rd tconverter locked and hit close to 1100F doing 70mph. Climbing in 4th locked I could see 1200F doing 70mph. This is with 17-18psi of boost (wastegate signal plugged) and if I got more I could probably safely add more fuel. I did see higher boost in 3rd than in 4th due to more revs but I'm tach-less still so I don't know the actual rpm. If I can get the boost gauge to mellow out (find the leaks) I'll probably play with adding just a little more fuel to see what EGTs do. If I push more air in there the EGTs will come down from what I have on my current settings so I'd probably have a little more room for more fuel.

As for engine temps with one fan going I stay at 190-200F.

When I was wheeling I just left the one fan going the whole time and temps never got hotter than 190F. The tranny ran up to 190F when in tcase high and would stay around 170F when going around in tcase low running the one fan.

I need to reset my spal controller as the temp range is too close together right now and it cycles between high speed and low speed. It's harder to get the temps up to 205F for my high fan setting just idling when it's not getting as hot outside anymore. The other fan still isn't hooked up as I was troubleshooting the relay wiring and haven't gotten back to it so it's disconnected right now.

As for restictions like a butterfly valve there is no valve, it's all open.

[Tapage]

And if you know any other similar setup like yours ( 4BT ) how much boost are capable the engine/turbo combo ?

[boots4]

This turbo should be able to get me in the 30s without a problem (leaks fixed and correct fueling/timing) and having a little bigger compressor will give me a little better topend. The head gasket at factory torque specs is generally safe up to the low 40s if it's in good condition. If you retorque the head following the 12v 6bt guys some are running 50-80 psi on stock head gaskets with over torqued bolts. It's amazing what some of these guys are pushing through their engines and laying down on the road! While I'm not a 6bt, only seeing 18-20psi max on my 4bt seems small when there is much more potential. In the future I can see bigger injectors and another turbo combo but since I doubt I'm close to maxing out this setup I'm going to get to know it better and get those leaks fixed. Obviously I'm convinced I have leaks and that there is more potential to be had in my current setup.

Some things just take me a while, for example, I finally realized why re-indexing the throttle lever will get the idle back down from when I added the 366 spring to the injection pump and turned up the power screw. Re-indexing the lever will add more spring tension returning it to my idle setting. Turning in the power screw more has caused a higher idle so I need more tension to overcome that and return the throttle lever to my idle setting.

[brokenparts]

here ya go Mike... sorry I've been making my cruiser levitate.





about 40 extended and about 30 compressed.

[boots4]

Originally Posted by brokenparts

about 40 extended and about 30 compressed.

PM'ed

[brokenparts]

and back at cha.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by boots4

This turbo should be able to get me in the 30s without a problem (leaks fixed and correct fueling/timing) and having a little bigger compressor will give me a little better topend. The head gasket at factory torque specs is generally safe up to the low 40s if it's in good condition. If you retorque the head following the 12v 6bt guys some are running 50-80 psi on stock head gaskets with over torqued bolts. It's amazing what some of these guys are pushing through their engines and laying down on the road! While I'm not a 6bt, only seeing 18-20psi max on my 4bt seems small when there is much more potential. In the future I can see bigger injectors and another turbo combo but since I doubt I'm close to maxing out this setup I'm going to get to know it better and get those leaks fixed. Obviously I'm convinced I have leaks and that there is more potential to be had in my current setup.

damn ! Mike those are serious numbers .. up to 40 PSI factory head&gasket and bolts .. damn ! those rods, pistons and else can hold fine this king of pressure .. ?

Thought I need to move to a 4BT soon !

[gifu]

Boots, which H1C are you running? What year Dodge did it come off of? Was it an intercooled or non-intercooled? (changes the impeller size). I'm running a 52MM compressor H1C on my 4BT, with a 12CM nonWC housing. Right now, it can hit 1200 F without even a hill... and has very low boost... 12-15psi.

[boots4]

Originally Posted by gifu

Boots, which H1C are you running? What year Dodge did it come off of? Was it an intercooled or non-intercooled? (changes the impeller size). I'm running a 52MM compressor H1C on my 4BT, with a 12CM nonWC housing. Right now, it can hit 1200 F without even a hill... and has very low boost... 12-15psi.

I got the H1C from a 93 6bt a friend gave me (thought it was intercooled but not sure). I replaced its exhaust housing with my 12cm wastegated housing and currently have plugged the signal to the wastegate with no increase in boost. I measured the inducer at 54mm and the turbine sizes were the same. The full details are HERE.

My reasoning on why this combo should get more boost is because the H1C turbines looked the same and the angle on the compressor wheels looked the same, just a bigger inducer. If some guys are getting easy 20s and some with low 30s (with enough fuel) with H1C why can't we. A bigger inducer should mean it can move more air. Maybe we're not spinning our engines high enough to get that full potential (could see this if the compressor vane angles were different), we don't have enough fuel going in (although with high EGTs we're inclined not to add more fuel), or there are other issues like cylinder blowby and psi leaks. Does your gauge flutter and where are you tapped for your signal?

[gifu]

my gauge doesn't flutter. the boost gauge is tapped at the manifold. I have yet to move any fuel or timing settings since pulling the motor from the breadvan. Correction: mine is a 54MM compressor. Same-same as yours. My buddy is running the baby H1C, i think it's a 46 or 44MM compressor, and he's using a 12CM housing (assembly #3523322). His truck will boost to about 20PSI pretty, and pretty fast. But he sees some EGT... about 1100 Pre-Turbo on a long hill. That's pretty hot.