[boots4]

Still working on it. I spent some time painting so that's taken some time. I started out patching up the slits cut into the fender well. This is my way of keeping it toyota, I cut patches out the the fender cut-outs to weld onto my wells.



After I got done with that I got it ready for coating/paint. I prepped by cleaning, wire wheeling, and sanding the wells and the area for coating. Here it is on jacks taped off.



Of course as soon as I get ready the clouds roll in and the temp. drops. Seems like whenever I want to paint something the weather turns sour. I went to the local hardware store for some supplies and ran across this stuff: Snow Roof: Mobile Coat.

I figured if it was good for the roof that sees the elements maybe it would be good for the wells. It was only $20 for a gallon so I decided to give it a try. I have that undercoating gun and borrowed a more powerful compressor to give it a shot. I sprayed the pass well and the stuff went everywhere! It's got the consistency of marshmellow cream (and looks like it too) but the spray application was too messy so I used the roller with 1" pile I picked up at the same time. I found the roller much easier to apply, less messy, but layed on a thinner coat so more coats would be necessary. This is the texture after 5 roller coats.





That wasn't enough texture for me so I got out the Spectrum Spray to see what it'd look like with roller application. I wanted to use this in the first place but didn't think I had enough to finish. I was right but I was able to get two coats on the panels and one in the wells.



The texture up close using a 1" pile/nap roller. They only had long ones (~10") so I cut it up in thirds to use the narrow roller I bought (~3").



While I let that dry I got the gutters ready for a reseal. I scrapped out all the old seal and taped it for a coating of Rust Bullet. I had some rust dusting under some of the old seal but nothing serious so I felt a coating of Rust bullet was a good idea for protection and to give the sealant something clean to bond to. I ended up with two coats of Rust Bullet and used Vulkem 921 Grey as my sealant. Rain is coming next week so I'll see if the gutter seal did the trick. Here the gutters are cleaned out ready for paint.



I planned on having Rust Bullet as my top coat so I put 2 coats on with a 1/4" nap roller. That makes 5 layers of Mobile coat, 2 layers of Spectrum, and 2 layers of Rust Bullet. Definitely overkill and if I did it again I'd just do Spectrum and Rust Bullet. I ended up recoating the wells with another 4 layers of Mobile Coat to cover up the Spectrum I put in the wells. With my white cruiser I think it looked better having white wells instead of dark wells; personal preference. I don't know if the Mobile coat will hold up but it was cheap and seemed like a good choice so I'll watch it through a wheeling season and let you know. Final product.



texture



Pass well. You can see the patches and how messy the spray started out. With this done I can clean and paint the hoops.







I'm happy with how it turned out. Some of the nap came off when painting with Rust Bullet but that will wear off and isn't noticable until you get up close, adds texture .

[brokenparts]

looks great!

[boots4]

While stuff was drying I looked at other stuff. In my hunt for more boost I decided to replace the signal line to the wastegate where I had inserted a T for my boost gauge signal. Maybe I was getting some small leak there so I relocated the boost gauge signal to another port on the intake manifold. I picked up this barb to fit in that port. It was 1/2" pipe thread to 1/4" hose barb.



This is the port.



All hooked up.



I also tried to tighten up the small hose that connects the actual wastegate to the hard line behind the turbo. That was more difficult but did feel like it was loose. I drove it to work yesterday and almost got 20psi. It was hard to tell because the needle was fluttering. With my foot on it EGTs stayed at 1000F so I know more boost was helping bring that down since previously it would get higher than that. I'll cap the line going to the wastegate and see if that is my leak I've been trying to chase down. The gauge still flutters so I know I'm still loosing pressure somewhere. Here's a question for those with boost gauges, is it normal for the needle to flutter (looks like it's vibrating)? Seems like it should be smooth or at least smoother than what I'm seeing. If so that has been telling me there is a leak somewhere all along I've been needing to troubleshoot.

I also started some real battery straps. Just need to get some longer bolts and drill another hole to tighten them down.



I'm not driving it the rest of the week because I've developed a wicked case of Death Wobble. I believe the main culprits are unbalanced tires (the 14 oz. of airsoft pellets I put in each tire just aren't cutting it or are turning to dust), the looseness of the steering box, and not having a stabilizer on it. So it looks like I'll be going to the traditional balancing method of weights on the rim because this kind of tire vib sucks. This also stepped up the priority of getting hydroassist mounted and hooked up. I know the ram will be a bandaid but it's got to be better to run it than without it.

[brokenparts]

Hydro assist was the best steering stablizer I ever did. Didnt you end up doing the hydro?

[boots4]

I've got all the parts and already ported the steering box but I just haven't gotten to it yet. Plan is to get the ram mounted by next week and see the difference.

I really like the idea of dynamic balancing for my tires (media inside) but I've read that does little if you need lateral balancing due to wide tires. Maybe the two will work together.

Are you legal yet? We gots to wheel soon!

[Tapage]

Not in my case .. if you see my videos you can see how it's my boost gauge acting .. both the VDO and the ISSPRO are soo smoth and steady.

[Project60]

In all the turbo cars I owned, the boost gauge (aftermarket or factory) never fluttered. They did spike above the boost gauge set point if there was an exhaust restriction, but never flutter.

[brokenparts]

Originally Posted by boots4

I've got all the parts and already ported the steering box but I just haven't gotten to it yet. Plan is to get the ram mounted by next week and see the difference.

I really like the idea of dynamic balancing for my tires (media inside) but I've read that does little if you need lateral balancing due to wide tires. Maybe the two will work together.

Are you legal yet? We gots to wheel soon!

yep, all legal now and ready to tear mine down again!

[boots4]

I did some reading yesterday and found that gauge flutter can be caused by a leak in the system, a faulty gauge, or a need to regulate/restrict the signal to the boost gauge (this one I don't quite agree with but it was mentioned). I'm going to go through my system and tighten everything up, maybe reseat some gaskets and go from there. Wrenching doesn't cost me so I'll start there. Fluttering like you guys said is not normal and does signify a problem, just got to figure out the cause and since I've already had some leaks I'm not convinced that I got all of them fixed. Tuning just takes a little time.

I realized in some areas I'm kinda like goldylocks where I want that just perfect combination instead of settling for the first bowl of porage or any kind of bed.

[brokenparts]

you rebuilt your th400 right? How hard is it to switch out the tail shaft? I need to switch out mine longer version shaft for a shorter one I have to bolt up to a 203...sorry for the hi-jack.

[boots4]

The 4l80 (which is really what I rebuilt) is close enough to the th400 so I'd say it's pretty straight forward to just take everything out and put it all back in. The tail shaft is in the very rear so pretty much everything comes out. It'll come out in sections/chunks with simple tools. Is the 400 in good condition? If not it would be a good time take a look at parts and possibly do a mild rebuild since you'll be taking it apart. When are you planning on attacking it? I might be able to give you a hand if needed depending on the schedule.

Second thought:
If the spline count is the same (which I thought all th400s came 32 spline like the 4L80s) and all you need to do is shorten it then a cut-off wheel would make that pretty easy. If you want to get inside to see how things are then that's easy enough too.

[brokenparts]

it was to have been rebuilt about 5000 miles ago. I bought it from a pretty reputable guy over on Pirate. I would be worried about cutting off some of the shaft because the splines dont run all the way down and I would be losing some of the engagement between the shaft and the input of the 203.

If it isnt a huge task and pretty straight foward I'd like to pull it apart ... I like to see how things work and it would be a good chance to see how the inside looks. I'm thinking about pulling it apart in the next few weeks.

[brokenparts]

found this on pirate... looks helpful.

TH400 output swap, tech - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

[boots4]

Pulling it apart will be easy. When putting it back together lining up the clutch packs and seating the pump can be a minor challenge but I didn't use any special tools, just some patience to drop them in just right. Kevin replaced his tailshaft in his th400 and it took him an hour or two. Going casually I don't see this taking more than a couple hours and thats looking at parts trying to figure out how things engage. Just have a clean work space you can line it all out as you pull it apart so putting it back together is straight forward. To get the center sections out on the 4l80 I needed to pull the valve body to get to the bolts. I'm assuming that's similar so you'll get to see just about everything.

Sounds like some good tech highlights for a cascade cruiser meeting to see what the internals look like.

[boots4]

Originally Posted by brokenparts

found this on pirate... looks helpful.

TH400 output swap, tech - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

Perfect, that is easy to follow, has all the pics needed and you can see in post #7 how lining up the clutch teeth to put in the next section can require some patience. In post #17 he shows the center support bolt under the valve body that needs to be removed to take out the internal chunks. Reading that two or three times gets you ready.

[brokenparts]

coolio... hi-jack over.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by Project60

They did spike above the boost gauge set point if there was an exhaust restriction, but never flutter.

it should be due a buterfly at the intake .. that it's my case in Tencha ..

[CreeperSleeper]

Originally Posted by Project60

In all the turbo cars I owned, the boost gauge (aftermarket or factory) never fluttered. They did spike above the boost gauge set point if there was an exhaust restriction, but never flutter.

Flutter = vaccuum/boost leak... I learned that one really quick on old turbo Volvos!

[kling-on]

fender chop looks good

[boots4]

Originally Posted by kling-on

fender chop looks good

Thanks, now I've got to get some protection on it... bumper build!

[brokenparts]

Originally Posted by boots4

Thanks, now I've got to get some protection on it... bumper build!

I'm probably going to be bending some tube here pretty quick when my cruiser goes back down.

[boots4]

In my hunt for the boost leak I'm tracing the system. I started at the gasket on my turbo compressor side. Perhaps this is not seating right when I put the housing on it so I thought I'd try out some Hi-temp (testing, won't be high enough in the long run) sealant to keep the gasket in place while mating the housing.





I took it for a run the next day and still have a good leak so I'm going to try finding a thicker o-ring to replace the flat gasket that came in my rebuild kit. My initial search at the local hardware store didn't turn anything up so I'll probably have to go somewhere more industrial. While I had things apart I had good access to the wastegate-to-hardline connection so I tightened that up too.

While I let that sit I started on my hydroassist. I bought the trailgear kit way back before I started tearing down the cruiser and it has been waiting all this time. The brackets made it easy but I did modify the axle mount to get the ram lined up as well as possible with the tie rod. I tacked it all together and cycled the steering for clearance. Everything worked out so I started welding it on. I painted it up and got ready for hook-up.





I wanted to keep the tie rod adjustable instead of popping out the TREs to for alignment. If this doesn't end up working I'll just weld it on like many already have. This is this sleave to keep the tie rod mount in place.



Here's the adjustable mount with the ram installed.



Ram from the front.



Pics from the rear.







Hoses hooked up and system bled. I used pirate tech Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive on porting steering boxes to figure out the lines and Brokenparts confirmed it for me. The bleeding was really simple and didn't take long, I did loosen the adjuster lock nut and let the box bleed shortly while cycling the system. It was a little messy but I didn't loose much fluid. The caps I had on there I'm keeping in the rig, that way I can cap the box incase I get a hole in the line from whatever. Rams are cheaper than LC steering boxes. I thought I had tightened up the box (adjuster nut on top) but found I was able to get another 1 1/4 turns by tightening, start rig and cycle steering, tighten some more, etc. This adjuster meshes the sector shaft teeth into the pistion teeth. Mine was too loose allowing too much play and contributed to my DW. With the box tightened and the ram hooked up I don't have DW anymore.

I tried to get my tires balanced traditionally with the airsoft pellets and the reading kept coming up in different spots on the balancing machine so they weren't able to balance them and didn't charge me for anything. He explained that they can usually do it with equal internal balancing media so that leads me to believe that the airsoft pellets are still too big to distribute as well as smaller media can. Instead of popping the bead and sucking those out I might look into getting a set of street tires and keeping the 38s for wheeling. The thought that was the better idea so it sounds like I've got approval. I'll probably be looking for some AT BFGs no smaller than 35s, just depends on what's available. I'm also toying with the idea of getting myself some tire irons and learn how to mount/dismount my tires. Then I could try out different media or check to see if the airsoft pellets I got were of sucky quality and are disintigrating inside.

Last night I was tightening the intake manifold bolts (really a cover on the 4bt as the head and intake are one piece) as a possible boost leak area and snapped one. Of course this happens at 7:30 pm and I have to work today so I pulled the cover plate off to see if I could get it out.



It's funny how we feel "lucky" when a snapped bolt sticks up far enough to get some vice grips on to twist it. I came out without any effort but during the cover plate removal the old gasket broke and wanting to get it drivable so I don't leave my wife without a car AGAIN I scrapped off the old gasket, cleaned it, and layered on some HI-temp sealant so I could slap it back together. I did notice something interesting while I was in there. It looked like the rear of the gasket might not have been sealing at one point and allowed moisture in causing some rust.



I'm not loosing any coolant and it looks like this has been here a while so maybe this happened before I got it.

I am missing one bolt for the intake horn right now but the tapped holes on the right side (where my missing bolt is) of the above pic don't go into the intake area like the ones on the left do, so the left side is where possible leaks from the bolt holes can be. I drove it this morning and the boost gauge doesn't flutter as much but it still flutters so it's back to hunting. I still cannot break the 20psi mark and was only seeing 18psi max on the way to work this morning. The wastegate has been tested, is working and should allow more than that with me adjusting the rod length so it's not the problem. I also capped off that line out of the intake cover to see it I had a crack in the hardline and I saw no difference. I'll see how much a set of intake gaskets are and see about replacing all the intake bolts since I can't seem to get some of them to take 30-35 ftlbs of torque. They keep turning and the threads are all OK so I figure they are stretching.

I also struck out at a scrap yard yesterday looking for tube to build bumper and slider protection. I was looking for 1 3/4" .120 wall. I did get longer bolts for the battery straps and those are now secure. Also gave it a wash and started detailing the roof to clean up the paint and get some protection on it. I'll eventually do the whole thing, the first time takes the longest.

[Tapage]

Dude .. can you take a pic of your box to see where do you tap it .. and to know which it's the right and left line .. ? ( I hope can do my hydro in DEcember as my personal gift from me to me ..

Other comment is about your turbo.

Are you using a factory turbo in your 4BT right .. which should be the usual boost that you see in those engines .. ?

I know there are pretty nice at hi boost ( compared to Toyota engines ) but as you know the boost it's arelation of load, diesel, and proper AR un your compresor and turbine side ..

jusnt wondering why you don't see those 20 PSI that you want ..

[boots4]

This is assuming that you set up your ram orientation like me, we're talking about a left-hand driver, and you're using a LC style steering box.





I'm using kind of a hybrid WH1C Holset, 12cm turbine with a 54mm inducer. This might not fit together perfectly so I'm seeing leakage from the compressor housing which is why I'm focusing on that gasket.

From the factory the wastegate actuator is set to ~18psi but I've adjusted the rod connecting it for less travel figuring I'd need more psi to open up the wastegate but at this point I question my logic. Perhaps it's still opening at 18psi but just not opening as far so it's not bleeding off as much exhaust gas. But that would stand to reason that I'd see more gases passing over the turbine causing it to spin faster thus compressing more air creating higher boost. Maybe I should try adding a spring to the rod to give it more preload to overcome thus requiring more psi at the actuator to overcome the spring preload.

Now if the gauge didn't flutter like it was with my signal line blocked (the actuator stays closed in the presence of no psi) then I'd have reason to suspect the actuator, but it fluttered just the same durning my testing with or without the signal line blocked so that leads me to believe the actuator is fine. Even if the actual waste gate was leaking that wouldn't show up as a flutter on the gauge, I'd just produce less boost so I could have both issues going on of a boost leak and the actuator doing it's job.

[redcorn]

As usual, another awesome write up complete with pics!!!!

How you do it, is beyond me Mike.

As for street tires, you may want to look at the Military OZ Good Years found on HumVee's.

You can find them on ebay for around 300.00 for a set in great shape.
They are a 37" tire for a 16.5 rim, wear like iron, and balance out very nicely.

I love mine, but they are not all that good when the going gets gooey...LOL

john

[boots4]

Originally Posted by redcorn

As for street tires, you may want to look at the Military OZ Good Years found on HumVee's.

Thanks, I'll check those out. I'm tempted to get another set of mud tires in the 17" or 18" rim size and sell the ones I have. Pretty sad huh... I haven't even wheeled these tires and I'm looking at others. I found some 18" sequoia rims locally that I might look at. Mud tire selection for what I want looks available in that rim size too. I really don't need tires, I need tubing to build bumpers and sliders.

[brokenparts]

I have some 39.5s for sale.

[boots4]

Originally Posted by brokenparts

I have some 39.5s for sale.

What size are you moving up to now?! Another question: How much bigger did you drill out your restrictor on your saginaw pump? You wouldn't remember the drill bit size you used would you?

[brokenparts]

42s and some double beadlocks. 13/64 for the drill bit. Makes a big difference. Make sure to run a decent cooler or you might run into cavitation problems. Be careful when you pull the restrictor, the spring wants to pop outta there and dont loose the bushing! Ask me how I know!

[boots4]

No wonder you're wanting to go tube fenders! That'll be a beast. Thanks for the tips, I'm cooler-less right now so it sounds like I'll add that to the list for the next JY run.