Family haulin'

[brokenparts]

wish I could have made the bbp but it looks like you guys had fun. Did Chad manage to put more scratches in his dents?

[boots4]

Not sure if I could tell the difference on Chad's rig but Cameron (Duane's son) did blow a hub on his father's 40.

[Tapage]

Pretty fast your spring packs job ..

I thought now you are in the best flex that you can get from your spring packs .. nice, really nice. But I miss the part when you post a video with your 4BT spining your rear tires in the muddy hill !

[CreeperSleeper]

Originally Posted by brokenparts

wish I could have made the bbp but it looks like you guys had fun. Did Chad manage to put more scratches in his dents?

Who me?!? Never....

[boots4]

No one grabbed one so I'll add that to the list. I'm still working on the sound video comparison I promised a couple pages ago

[brokenparts]

oh man... that's so tempting to photochop...

[Grolar]

Looks like tweaking and adjusting really takes time, especially when you're exploring that kind of terra incognita. Congrats and please keep posting pics of the beast in action!

[boots4]

Lets start out with troubleshooting.

I was driving up to an intersection at lunch time last week and the engine just died. No stumbling, sputtering or struggling, just turned off. It turned over fine but would not start. I fiddled some with no success and called a co-worker to give me a tow back to work (1/2 mile, I didn't get very far). I fiddled some more in the parking lot but gave up when the 40mph winds were blowing the sideways rain drops up my nose! I got it towed home and continued my troubleshooting the next day. I have two fuel filters: 1 is pre lift pump and 2 is post lift pump. 1 was full of diesel and 2 was more than half empty. The lift pump seemed to prime fine but the engine still didn't fire. I cracked a banjo bolt before filter 2 and tested the lift pump. The pressure seemed fine but at the end of the pump I got some bubbles from the line. I figured it was a hole in the diaphram on my lift pump and air was getting in. I thought about a piston style pump but due to time and funding I just replaced it with another diaphram style pump.





I also took out the fuel cut-off solenoid thinking that was why the engine just stopped without any stumbling. I should have tried a hot 12v to it first but I didn't, here's what it looks like.





If the solenoid is faulty and you need to take this out so you can get diesel to your injection pump just take the plunger and spring out and reinstall the body back in the hole.

Don't forget to put the o-ring back on the solenoid or it won't seal and you'll get air sucked in the injection pump and that will lead to air in your injection lines. I did find this out the hard way and cost me a couple hours of head scratching.



Once I figured out air was coming in and no amount of bleeding the injectors was going help I put the o-ring back in and re-bled. I went through a charge on the battery and had to wait while a battery charger gave it juice for a few more turnovers for the bleeding process. I finally got enough air out of the line that it started. It stumbled for 10-15 seconds, ran rough for 20 seconds while it purged the rest of the air out and then started purring again. I turned it off and made sure it would start back up and it did. I then re-installed the plunger on the fuel cut-off solenoid and found it was working fine.

The other culprit I didn't consider is that I actually ran out of diesel. Since the rear quarter cut I hadn't drilled a new hole for the fuel sender wire to pass through the body and connect with the harness so my fuel gauge wasn't working. I figured I was getting close but was going off of mileage. What I forgot to consider is the difference in the tire size When I drilled a hole and connected it back up the gauge read empty. However, it's one of those areas where it's degrees of emptiness but apparently I was close to the last degree. I put 2 gallons in to make it to a diesel station so I wouldn't have to do this again. So I'm not absolutely sure the lift pump was shot. The air bubbles were compelling enough for me and now I've got a spare I can carry around. So it turned into an exercise to get to know my engine better and what to do if I ever run out of diesel again. Moral is, don't run out of diesel!

With that experience and success under my belt I turned to getting the lock-up wired. When I called transgo several months ago about wiring up the solenoid in the tranny I was told to step down the voltage. Well, another tried that out and it didn't work. He talked to his tranny guys and ended up running straight 12v to it and it worked fine so that's what I planned. I went to radio shack thinking they'd have the biggest selection of switches but only found toggle style switches that were rated for 12v. I ended up getting and automotive toggle rated for 12v/20amp. I also picked up LEDs with a built-in resistor so all I'd have to do it wire it in with the switch. I bought two LEDS thinking I'd put one in the dash eventually. Cost me $7



I took my shifter apart, decided on a location, drilled some holes and put them in.



Pulled a 12v source from the fuse block and wired it up.



Found some connectors that would fit the tranny pins and hooked them up. I want to finish this up better but for tryouts this will do.



Put it all back together and went for a quick test. I flick the switch and the lock-up engages. I'll do a little learning on when it should and shouldn't be engaged but sure makes it feel like a direct connection between the engine and the tires. Success.

[boots4]

On my last day my baffles showed up and I was excited to try them out so I started in on the exhaust.



I decided to put one in the downpipe and one at the end of the exhaust. It'll be an experiment. My downpipe wasn't long enough so I added in a section. I then marked a drilled some holes for the baffle to be bolted in.





There it is inside.



So I'm hoping that this is my final and complete downpipe.



Over-the-tranny downpipe installed.





I ran out of steam trying to figure out how I wanted to mount the rest of the exhaust so I just grabbed this piece with a little turndown and threw it on until this weekend.



I think I'm just about ready to start counting for mileage.

[Tapage]

Maybe .. and just maybe the extra fuel filter made your IP plunger do more heavy work . ? in my case with 2 filters I add a electric pump that also help to deliver more diesel to my engine ..

3" exhaust . ? niiiiceee . .

First time that I saw a baffle .? which it's the idea .. ( thought a sound in the exhaust .? )

[boots4]

Originally Posted by Tapage

Maybe .. and just maybe the extra fuel filter made your IP plunger do more heavy work . ? in my case with 2 filters I add a electric pump that also help to deliver more diesel to my engine ..

3" exhaust . ? niiiiceee . .

First time that I saw a baffle .? which it's the idea .. ( thought a sound in the exhaust .? )

Good point about the extra filter causing more work. It probably needs to be changed soon since I've run bio through the system and filter 1 could be causing more resistance from a cleaning in the lines and tank.

Yup, 3" exhaust. That was what was on the stepvan so I just kept the size. For a better explaination of the baffles and their benefits visit here: Spiral Turbo Specialties: Spiral Turbo Baffles Overview Scroll down, there is a short article about them.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by boots4

For a better explaination of the baffles and their benefits visit here: Spiral Turbo Specialties: Spiral Turbo Baffles Overview Scroll down, there is a short article about them.

Nice info .. thanks .. first time that I read about it .. now you need to report the improvement and take a video for the sound

[Captain23]

those are pretty sweet mike, may have to get a set. Let us know the increase in MPGs!!!!

[redcorn]

Looking forward to meeting you in the coming month and forging ahead with PNW wheeling with you and the rest of the Cascade Cruisers.


john

[boots4]

Originally Posted by redcorn

Looking forward to meeting you in the coming month and forging ahead with PNW wheeling with you and the rest of the Cascade Cruisers.


john

That's fantastic! It's been so long since I've been wheeling that you'll have to show me around. Let us know when your trip gets close.

[boots4]

To many other things needed attention this weekend so cruiser time was limited. I did rework my lower radiator hose reducer so I wouldn't have so many hose clamps. Plus I've had a kink in the lower hose ever since I adjusted the passenger side motor mount. I thought about fabbing a new inlet for the block to accept the same sized hose as the radiator but decided not to since whenever I get around to putting the A/C compressor back in I might have to build one then.

I took the two pieces I had, welded them, cleaned up the weld, and covered it with JB Weld to make sure I wouldn't get any leaks. Here's how it came out.



I also put a coat of JB Weld on the inside.



I thought my coolant was going to look dirty but it didn't so I strained it with some old jeans and filled it back up.

I helped someone move last weekend and used it to tow their stuff and it pulls really well with a load on it with the T.converter locked up. Still going to turn up the pump and play around with more boost, the 38s slowed it down a little, but the hwy rpms feel pretty good.

[Tapage]

How much boost are running right now . ?

[boots4]

My wastegate bleeds me at only 15psi. I'd like to be in the 20's I was planning on putting together a manual boost controller that basically modifies the signal to the wastegate to get it to open later.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by boots4

My wastegate bleeds me at only 15psi. I'd like to be in the 20's I was planning on putting together a manual boost controller that basically modifies the signal to the wastegate to get it to open later.

Only .. ? ha ! I'm having some problems to run 15 PSI .. !

I'm jelaous !

Yap .. I have a manual boost controler in Marilu, coz the CT26 wategate are nos ajustable .. ( thought as same as yours )

[1974FJ]

I dont even remember right now, but what turbo are you running anyway? hy35w? or the H1Cw?

[boots4]

It's a hybrid WH1C I put together. It has a 12cm exhaust housing and the 54mm inducer. It's suppose to be close to an HX35.

[1974FJ]

where did you get the 12cm2 housing, i see some guys have ordered them. I have a baby H1C turbo(small intake housing) sitting behind my shop thats in good shape, didn't know if it had the 12cm2 housing. Do all the 12cm2 housing have a wastegate?
I looked back at your turbo write up, and i see you had alot of trouble getting that exhaust housing to separate too, what a pain!? took me a day and a half for it to soak enough(crewcab59 showed me that spraying penetrating oil and using a torch and then more penetrating oil works great, and of coarse a BFH)
You think that modified H1C will work well with that air to air? I didnt think that it would be enough turbo, but i guess some did come intercooled, so i dont know.

[boots4]

The 12cm housing came on my WH1C which came on my stepvan and so did the intercooler so I figure it was matched from the factory. Not all 12cm housings come wastgated since one can buy one with or without but I think they did come wastegated with the factory install like in my van but I could be wrong. With the bigger inducer on the compressor side I'll be pushing more air but with the wastegate bleeding at 15psi I don't think I'm really tapping into this turbo setup. I think there is more potential in it and now I'm ready to play with it. I like the idea of the wastegate to keep it from overrunning but I still want more boost especially when I make some adjustments on the power screw.