[boots4]

Thanks, I appreciate the support.

[beav]

Great thread.
I just read it while watching the superbowl.
How much did you end up spending on the project?

[boots4]

The project is not over yet but I planned for ~$10K. That included the cost of the FJ60. One of these days I'll get a closer estimate but since I still need to buy a few things I don't want to scare myself away.

[boots4]

Originally Posted by Tapage

Just wondering if you thought your rear spring pack setup it's enought heavy to support the weight of all family stuff on it and your family with enough shackle clearance from the frame to the spring eye ..

Well Tapage you called me on that one. Once the rear springs settled I found that the leaf was hitting the frame.

This is with some weight on the back. It doesn't contact at ride height but when the springs start to compress they hit the frame.



You can see that the springs still have more compression to go through so a lengthening of the rear shackles was in order.



So I pulled them off and decided to add an inch which now makes the holes 7" apart. Instead of cutting new ones (my 9/16" bit has had it) I'm just going to do a little surgery.

New section in the middle. I also cut out some more plate for support.



Welded and grinded ready for paint.



Painted up. I had some wire feeding issues when welding but got that resolved.



Still have the engine hoist so I used that to lift up the rear end enough to slip the bolts in and out of the shackles.



Shackles are in and droop is being limited by the retaining bolts in the leaf pack. I'm sure on a trail it will be forced more than this and if it doesn't satisfy I can remove those retainer bolts and get a little more. I'd rather test it as is and decide later.



I've been thinking about the shifter linkage for the doubler and t.case for a little while and have passed by a certain isle at the local hardware store that looked like I could find some parts to work. This is what I brought home: One 1/2" NF grade 8 by 3 1/2", Four thick 1/2" washers, Three 1/2" set collars, Two 1/2" jam nuts, One 1/2" nut, and three zerk fittings. Only cost me $13.50.



I had some round stock waiting to become shifters so I grabbed some measurements and did some cutting. The silver piece goes over the tranny, bolting to existing holes and is the base for the shifters. I picked a spot to put the bolt through the base and welded it on the backside. I then choose a spot on the shifters to mount the set collars and welded those on. I heated the shifters up with a torch and bent them to clear each other and test fit them.



The shifters were still hitting each other so I grabbed the grinder and took of a little more material. You get the idea in the following pic.



Once they all moved without rubbing I welded on some tabs for the linkage. I spent some time grinding and sanding and painting. I coated the top with clear and hit the bottom with beige (cummins theme). After they dried I put in the zerks. The thread size was close but the pitch was wrong. I just cranked them in and don't plan on taking them out; they won't be holding any pressure. This gives me an easy way to grease 'em up. I used the wheel bearing idea to hold the shifters to the shaft and that is to use one jam nut to set some preload, lock the other jam nut to it and hopefully the shfiters won't loosen up and wiggle. That other plate you see is to support the end of the bolt.



Close up.



Looking down through the access cover this is how it fits. I needed to cut a little room out of the hump for the outer shifter.



Side shot



Had to enlarge the hole on the access cover too. I tried to make it fit close to where the original hole was. I got out my paint to touch up the base where I welded on the bolt and I broke the jar so I ended up using the rest of it on various parts which is why the access cover got painted.



Slipped on the boot with the metal piece inside and shaped it to the curve.



Then I pulled the metal piece out to see what it looks like on top and I think I like it on top better. I'll just need to get some nice screws or bolts to hold it down.

[boots4]

Thought about placement of my rear shocks and decided on a location. Here are the axle mounts. The pins are what I cut off the upper mount. I'll need to do something different up there anyways.



I'll try and shoot for the 1/3 uptravel 2/3 down travel general rule. Here is the passenger side. I wanted them as low as possible but didn't want them to be rock anchors so I chose this spot. There is enough room to slide the ubolt behind the mount.



Driver side. I don't think I enjoy welding under the rig laying down. It's hard to get a good angle on the path I wanted to take. Next time I'd raise the axle some for a better position.



Since I was down there with the welder I grabbed a piece of exhaust and did some bootyfab to route it passed the axle. I couldn't get that flex piece off so I just used it to my advantage. I do have intentions of replacing at least the muffler out to the back in the future, but for now it'll do.



Little Shake Down:

Later that day I went and picked up my trailer with some wood on it. I was interested to see how it towed. To get around the line pressure on the tranny I hooked a hand-helded vacuum pump to the modulator and put on 8-10" of vacuum. 1st and 2nd were more responsive so I was excited to go try it out. Since I still don't have shocks on I didn't goose it and was careful. I had my wife tail me. My trailer was only 2 miles away so it would be a quick test. I hooked up and started back home. I have the boost gauge hooked up but never really saw it move so I was starting to wonder if I got it in right. With a little load (I estimate 1500-2000lbs) I was able to see the gauge register around 5-6 psi when taking off. There is a small hill on the way back with a stop light before the steep part. I took off normally from the light and gave it more gas and was able to see the boost gauge register 15-16psi. I love hearing that turbo spool up and make some boost. When we got home I asked my wife about that part and she said she couldn't keep up without stepping into it. I still had throttle left so I know it will pull harder. I am really going to like the power of this 4bt

As for noise, I think I will be looking into more sound insulation and I'll probably start in the engine bay. That tranny access cover isn't insulated yet and I could tell sound was getting in from there.

I took better pics of the entire rig so I'll just post those up.



Close but no rubbing when the trailer was on. I'll be trimming to put on the 38s, just waiting for it to warm up a little before I do some body work.



Front axle forward



I plan to paint the lettering on the "TOYOTA" either silver or original white.





Getting closer...

[Project60]

Nice work as usual!

[Kavik]

Damn Boots! This thread covers just about every cool mod that can be done to a 60.

I really like the t-case shifter set up. I did not catch where you got the crossmember that goes over the tranny. Built or bought?

Another question you probably answered before...Rear springs 63" chevy 1/2 ton or 3/4T?

Again, great work. This thread is a monster for info!

[boots4]

Originally Posted by Kavik

I really like the t-case shifter set up. I did not catch where you got the crossmember that goes over the tranny. Built or bought?

Another question you probably answered before...Rear springs 63" chevy 1/2 ton or 3/4T?

Again, great work. This thread is a monster for info!

I'm just waiting for you to start on your drivetrain swap!

I built the base myself. I just got a piece and started bending until that thing came out. I put some braces on it to give it a little more rigidity since it's just a flat strip cut out of a crossmember on my stepvan frame.

As for the leafs they are 3/4T. The 1/2s will have 3 leaves plus overload and the 3/4s will have 4 leaves plus overload. They did well towing my trailer that was tongue heavy (load was all forward of the axle line).

You know, once I'm done it might be a good idea to make a table of contents and post that at the front of this thread. That way it will be easier to reference. Maybe I'll start that soon and just keep it updated as I keep adding on.

[GLTHFJ60]

I'm sorry for the dumb question, but why do you have three shifters for your transfercase? I can only think of one shifter for high-low and one for 2wd-4wd. What is the third one for?

Excellent project by the way!

[boots4]

The third one is to engage my nightrider turbo boost mod...


Seriously, I have one for H/L on the doubler, one for H/L on the tcase, and one for 2wd/4wd on the tcase. Thanks for looking.

[Kavik]

Originally Posted by boots4

I'm just waiting for you to start on your drivetrain swap!

I built the base myself. I just got a piece and started bending until that thing came out. I put some braces on it to give it a little more rigidity since it's just a flat strip cut out of a crossmember on my stepvan frame.

As for the leafs they are 3/4T. The 1/2s will have 3 leaves plus overload and the 3/4s will have 4 leaves plus overload. They did well towing my trailer that was tongue heavy (load was all forward of the axle line).

You know, once I'm done it might be a good idea to make a table of contents and post that at the front of this thread. That way it will be easier to reference. Maybe I'll start that soon and just keep it updated as I keep adding on.

Right on. I'm trying to find an extra splitcase so I can build my drivetrain in the garage before I pull the 2F. In my mind, I plan to do the swap all in one piece (pre -assembled).

I'm really liking the idea of the 63" chevys. It seems like a great fit. And, by studying your pictures, the hangers miss the factory body mounts well. I originally wanted to french in the hangers using the 60 springs, but the body mounts are in the way.

I think there are a bunch of recent builds that would make great additions to the ih8mud tech links. I may end up w/ some server space soon, and I might try to host some of them there and request some links be added in the 'mud tech page.

I am sure you will have permagrin once you can really heavy foot that diesel.

[4x4rob]

awesome write/build up Boots

[jeffsclan]

Hey Boots, where did ya get the boot? Ya know the ones on the new shifter you made. Very good reading by the way!

[boots4]

I searched for triple boot on ebay after asking Mace where he got his. They are sold by JB custom Fabrication and they ship from Salem Or.

[jeffsclan]

Very nice! Drooling over your rig is helping me get through winter. Gives me something to look forward to. The ongoing saga.

[Captain23]

Hell Yeah Mike! Now all you need is a set of these:

[Grolar]

Originally Posted by boots4

I have one for H/L on the doubler, one for H/L on the tcase, and one for 2wd/4wd on the tcase. Thanks for looking.

Great anti theft device. Before the bad guy figures out how this stuff is working... BTW, with an "L+L", you now have an ultra-low gearing ratio, right?

[boots4]

Micah - Yeah those little fj60 mirrors don't offer much visability so some upgrades like you've posted are a good idea. I'll probably add that to the mods down the road. How is that 6bt monster?!

Grolar - True, I could put one or both of them in neutral, but without an emergency brake I better be on level ground. For now the trans brake is keeping me stationary. Having gone through the tranny I now know how that works and it's mechanical linkage so I'm not too worried about letting that be my parking brake until I figure out what I want to do for the ebrake. You're right again with the L+L. It will give me 47:1 without the t.converter multipication. The t.converter multiplication generally being 2:1 will bump me to a 94:1 ratio. I believe that will be lower than I'll need most of the time but when I need it, I'll have it. Like Brokenparts has stated, "wheeling an auto is like cheating."

[brokenparts]

oooo... that reminds me. you should hook up your shifter to be able to start in any gear. Its a nice feature to have when you are parked on a serious incline and want to just "bump over" or hold yourself using the starter when you cant get your rig to start. Make sure to tell your wife about that though.


... and I still stand by my statement about using an auto to wheel.

[boots4]

I could see how that would work well for a manual tranny but having an auto that needs line pressure to engage clutch packs and friction bands might not work as well as a manual, but I've never tried it either. I'll have to try it out and see if I can start it in gear. I don't have any "saftey" switches on the tranny or the shifter to interupt the starter/ignition signal so I might be able to do it already.

If I didn't want the starter to actually start the motor I suppose I could put a kill switch on the 12v source going to the injection pump or keep the manual shut-off pulled out (planning on hooking up my old choke cable to the manual shutoff lever on the injection pump for an emergency stop in case the fuel switch burns out).

Want to swing by this weekend so I can ramp up on a 39.5" tire and get my measurements for shock placement?

[brokenparts]

you know what... I've never tried it since the auto switch. I bet your right, it wont probably work since its not spinning enough to lock it up. I'll have to give a go when I get home tonight.

I might be able to get Sat sometime (going to cannon beach Sunday and Monday) but let me check with my social director about Sat. I'd really love love love to see that thing in person!

Zach

[boots4]

PM'd

[brokenparts]

Pm'd back.

[Tapage]

Dude ... I don't know why I'm not register the last updates .. . great ! ( easy solution with more shackle lenght ) really great !

[boots4]

Seems like the closer I get to getting it on the road the longer it takes. It's already february and I'm still not DD'ing the thing. Since I got sick this weekend and couldn't work on it what's another week right?

At least I got one day on it before I'd succumb to the stomach thing going around. I got the rear shocks mounted. In the pics it looks like the pass side is leaning more but it's not, it's just the combination of angles in the pic that scews it.



Put this bracket together cutting off a piece from the stepvan frame to get the top mounting up a little higher.





I used 5/8's grade 8s with some thick washers. I chose a bolt length that would allow me to bottom the nut on the shoulder and allow enough space on the shoulder to keep the shock bushing tight but not squish the bushing, much like the original mounts. The bushing is deflecting on the pass mount some but I don't think it will be a problem, maybe just accelerate the wear a little.



I really could not have gone any further over (towards the tires) or I would have run into clearance issues with the leaf springs. I have minimal clearance right now, but believe I'll have no contacting issues while flexing.



Looking from the front to the back of the rig. I will need to adjust the exhaust routing to give me more clearance with the driver side shock.





Since that didn't seem like enough pics to post I took just a couple of a 10" subwoofer box I made right after I bought the 60. 10" was enough for me since I don't tend to be into the bass that modifies my heart rhythm anymore.

I cut out new rear quarter panels and sunk it through the driver side. Trying to squeeze more cubic ft. of volume I sandwiched the panel with two sides. For the finish I tried using drywall texture and painting over the top of it. It's not durable at all and don't recommend doing it.

Hole on the left is for the washer access, middle is the sub, right is for the three-ways.







I've decided to make new ones because I want to try out some subwoofer plans I bought from Bill Fitzmaurice (build your own speaker enclosure stuff that I originally picked up for the PA stuff to build enclosures for the band). The next set of panels I'll be making are out of aluminum (thanks stepvan), haven't decided where to put the sub enclosure, and the three-ways will go up on the D pillars somehow.

I talked to a relative about insurance for this modified rig and she got me some great numbers that I'll finalize this week. With it insured and once getting some front shocks on I plan to tackle the DMV with a fuel swap on my title and go from there. Hopefully it'll go smoothly and I just might be driving it to work next week.

[Tapage]

Talking about exhaust .. where do you found this " flexible " exhaust . ?

[boots4]

I bought some at the local NAPA store. I think it was actually called flexible exhaust tubing.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by boots4

I bought some at the local NAPA store. I think it was actually called flexible exhaust tubing.

didn't found in the Napa Online Store, but will check around the web .. it maybe sole pretty much problems with my 1HD-T 3" exhaust ..

EDIT: I found at napa, but can't be ordered online .. anycase thanks !

[boots4]

I added a table of contents to the beginning of the thread to help with finding stuff. If you think something should be there that isn't, let me know, thanks.

[boots4]

I missed these pics of the rear shock upper mounts from last week so I'll just put them on first. This material is way thicker than needed but it's what I have in abundance so I used it.

Rear upper mount





I cut the bolts down before I welded it up in the rig. I didn't need all that thread, I was just after the shoulder since that's where the bushing was going to rest.



I bought some DIY hoops off of ebay a while back. I knew I was going to have clearance issues on the driverside with the steering box. After holding them up a couple of ways I decided to use the hoops and for clearance I cut the left side, bent it, cut out a patch for the hole and welded it up. Now it cleared the steering box. I put the hoop as far up as possible without having to do any fender well surgery. As far as shock placement I gave myself 5"-6" (the distance the axle could travel to contact the bumpstops on the frame) for uptravel and left the rest for down travel. I did not flex it out so we'll have to see if I did alright with my calculations. I tied the shock up at that calculation and worked on the tab placement. I aimed for 10 degrees of lean to the back since the SR will cause the axle to move in that direction on compression. Once I got that angled how I wanted it I tacked it on the frame, removed the shock and then burned it in. I put a brace inbetween the welded points on the hoop to distribute the load and may even weld on some gussets under the hoops to the frame, but probably not right away. Then I gave it a quick coat of primer. I'm out of Rustbullet so this will protect until I get some more.

Driver side. This side took longer.





Close up of the brace I put in (not included with the kit)



Everything back together





I used the same bolt combo I used for the rear upper mounts. This axle mount was cut out of some parts I had laying around that already had a hole in it for the bolt.



Other side.



This is how I've been controlling the vacuum on the modulator in the tranny. Still waiting for parts to come in so this works to get me around.



Getting low on wood for house heat so we made a quick trip to grab a couple more rounds. It's nice to have shocks on it.



Nothing impressive but just some quick little vids on the road. New insurance policy kicked in last week so now I don't feel like a bandit taking it on the road.

P2160068 videos from rides videos on webshots

P2160072 videos from rides videos on webshots

I was ready to go to DMV on saturday and even found a full service DMV (not an express) that was open but when I showed up there was no one in the parking lot. I just came home and decided to try it out this week.