[davisdrafting]

Converting my FJ80 to a 4spd. manual H41

Ran it to a problem today as you can see in the pic the clutch fork
is to long. What I asked for from Cruiserparts dot net was a pre 85 bell housing
clutch for flywheel and so on.

What I received was a cast-iron bell and clutch fork that had so much rust flaking
off it, it could have been a pre 58.

Will a different clutch fork fix this problem or do I have to hack up my floorboard ?

[lowtideride]

The cast Iron bell should be stamped with a big 3F on it. The clutch fork should be a 85-87...

is the problem that its just hitting your floor? If so it looks like cutting is in order.

[davisdrafting]

I didn’t see a 3F on the bell. Think they sent me the wrong one?
I asked for a pre 1985 FJ60 bell.

Have any close ups of your bell installed with fork and slave?

[Mace]

Like the surfer dude said. why is it too long?

[davisdrafting]

Sorry, thought the pic was self explanatory. See how the fork is
at a slight angle coming out of the bell, that’s because it’s hitting
the passenger floorboard. Also in that the bearing is about an inch” away from the pressure plate.

I would need to remove about 3” of sheet metal which I’m not willing to do.

Any dimensions of clutch forks floating around?

[lowtideride]

I dont think your bellhousing is effecting your problems as of right now. But its should be the 85-87 one with 3F stamped on it. You may have the wrong clutch fork though.


Also, Willing to bet you could make it fit by bending out you floor...With a dead blow hammer. No cutting at all. Jut a few good whacks to bend the metal out.

[Mace]

Personaly, I would cut the fork down.. To the best on my knowledge there is not a shorter fork. But, since the 80 did come with a manual in other countries. Calling someone in AU to find ya one might not be a bad idea.

[lowtideride]

Maybe it is the bellhousings fault. The clutch slave mounts differently on the 85-87 bellhousings as it does on the 81-84 bellhousings....Worth a look into.

A guy not too long ago in hardcore put a 6 speed /orion case in his 80. Might was to find out what clutch fork he used.

Cutting it down would be a good way to go as well. Din't even cross my mind.

[Mace]

BH makes no difference, the centerline of the motor and the length of the clutch fork do..

With a different BH you can have a altered pivot point, but it will not change the length of the Fork..

If you do shorter, be aware that you might put too much pressure on the clutch (depress it too far)

If you have the correct master/slave for the job it shoudl nto be an issue tho..

[davisdrafting]

Shorting the fork was my first idea. I’ll need to mod the slave bracket or make a custom one. If I do so I’ll gain more throw at the fork but increase the hydraulic pressure in the slave too.

Nothing I can do about the pressure but the throw could be easily fixed at the clutch master or slave.

As Mace stated to much pressure on the pressure plate.
How do I figure out the min/ max depression of pressure plate?


Like to see a pic or two of the bell/ fork and slave on a FJ80 if anyone has one.





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[alkaline747trio]

You could use a BFH and clearance the body to get rid of the interference instead of cutting.

[Godwin]

I posted a pic of the early vs. late clutch forks in this thread

Need help with clutch fork in a FJ80

The later is shorter and may work better in this situation.

[Mace]

Well there you go..

[davisdrafting]

Hmm that fork wouldn’t work ether. I had to cut aprox. 1/2” more
then the total length of the top one. Also the pivot point looks
to be moved 1/4” towards the bearing.

Thanks for the pic’s

[davisdrafting]

pic's

[davisdrafting]

pics

[davisdrafting]

What a headache this is turning out to be. Now the transfer case
is hitting the back side of the passenger floorboard.

Tip to anyone going to do this, dont use a pre 85 bellhousing, if that’s what
cruiserparts.net actually sent me, it look like it’s for a FJ40.

The reason I wanted a pre 85 is that the bolt pattern clocks the tranny to 0* and post clocks to 7* which would have gave me clearance from the body.

So now I need to angle the engine/ drive train more then the original 4.5*

If I had a ToyBox or equivalent this wouldn’t be an issue.

[davisdrafting]

Tested the clutch, it works great. Transmission and transfer
case are mounted too.

Tip on bending your own brake line for clutch slave DON’T use
bubble taper (BT) unions, they leak.
After redoing my lines 3 times I went with brass (IT) internal taper unions,
that solved the leaking.

Things left to do

1. Temporary cross-member for trans.

2. Extend rear driveline

3. Cut out tranny hump for stick shifters.

4. Test drive

5. Make duel TC shifters

6. Mod center console

Oops 3.1. Gear oil for trans. & TC
_____________________________Down the road
7. Under drive

8. Make new cross-member

9. Shorten rear driveline

10. Extend TC shifter linkage

11. Front drive shaft

12. Manual hubs

[lowtideride]

You should gets some Aisin manual hubs now, they bolt right up from a 60 series. Im running them on my 80 right now.

[davisdrafting]

Originally Posted by lowtideride

You should gets some Aisin manual hubs now, they bolt right up from a 60 series. Im running them on my 80 right now.

Ya I read that Aisin’s are the best but expensive so hopefully I can find a used pair for cheep.
or I’ll have to go aftermarket Warn or Superlift.

I’m also lookin for a under-drive unit for a good
deal. I found out that on the “Translift” we manufacture, it uses 4.3:1 planetary gear sets
Hmmm thinking about making a custom rock-box

Any ideas what is stronger planetary gears or
regular gear sets? like Atlas compared to Toybox







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