Thinking out loud, need some input.

CreeperSleeper · 03-12-07, 02:41 PM

I have a 1997 FZJ80 with an OME "J" lift and 35s. I love my Cruiser and it wheels really well, but I can help but dream. I'm just looking to see if you guys have any input or can show me something that I'm overlooking. I would like to swap in a Chev EFI 350, 700R4 tranny and a 203/205 double case and run it to Unimog 404 axles. With the axle swap, I would 3 link the front and possibly the rear. Put in an Aux fuel tank and remove the stock tank. I know that I would have to fab up crossmembers, but I don't forsee any other major problems other than adapting the gauges to work with the new ECU. I'm also thinking that with this setup I can run Hydro assisted front steering and do full hydro rear steer. So come on, guys... Tell me what I'm overlooking and/or talk me out of it!

CreeperSleeper · 03-12-07, 02:45 PM

I also thought about running a 4BT instead of the V8...

LC_Hamma · 03-13-07, 02:39 PM

Sounds like a $pendy plan you're dreamin up. Would the pinion brake, on the snout of the 3rd member, cause you to raise your engine up or move the front axle forward to clear the oilpan? Try & keep the front frame clear of steering linkage interference for an optimum trac bar location. Think about, whatever engine you go with, exhaust exit location & engine mount placement cuz you don't want that stuff hangin low where it could take up lower link mount areas. Are you going to go with hysteer for the driver drop Mogs?

brokenparts · 03-13-07, 05:37 PM

you musta sold that Volvo....

. You forgot to mention bobbing the rear end. All that work and money and then not bobbing the rear end that's going to get hung up on rocks?

brokenparts · 03-13-07, 05:41 PM

think slee:

CreeperSleeper · 03-14-07, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LC_Hamma

Sounds like a $pendy plan you're dreamin up. Would the pinion brake, on the snout of the 3rd member, cause you to raise your engine up or move the front axle forward to clear the oilpan? Try & keep the front frame clear of steering linkage interference for an optimum trac bar location. Think about, whatever engine you go with, exhaust exit location & engine mount placement cuz you don't want that stuff hangin low where it could take up lower link mount areas. Are you going to go with hysteer for the driver drop Mogs?

IIRC, Mog axles don't have a pinion brake, they are drums on the hubs. I think the steering would be set up like a Chevy (but I need to double-check). As for the exhaust, to would tuck up between the framerails and there would be a turndown at the rear axle.

As for bobbing it, I have no desire... well, maybe after I roll it.

brokenparts · 03-14-07, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CreeperSleeper

IIRC, Mog axles don't have a pinion brake, they are drums on the hubs. I think the steering would be set up like a Chevy (but I need to double-check). As for the exhaust, to would tuck up between the framerails and there would be a turndown at the rear axle.

As for bobbing it, I have no desire... well, maybe after I roll it.

So you'll be ready soon.

72cruiser · 03-14-07, 05:40 PM

also, if i remember a thread about rear-steer on an 80 from a while back, you'd have to cut A LOT of sheetmetal to make that worthwhile...

but it sounds awesome, so do it, ha ha

malphrus

CreeperSleeper · 03-14-07, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brokenparts

So you'll be ready soon.

Probably

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72cruiser

also, if i remember a thread about rear-steer on an 80 from a while back, you'd have to cut A LOT of sheetmetal to make that worthwhile...

but it sounds awesome, so do it, ha ha

malphrus

LOL! Maybe I should forget the rear-steer... that would save me quite a bit of money. I didn't think about tire turning clearance.

brokenparts · 03-14-07, 10:04 PM

ah, just givin you a hard time chad...

CreeperSleeper · 03-14-07, 11:42 PM

It's cool... I'll get you back.

Poser · 03-14-07, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CreeperSleeper

IIRC, Mog axles don't have a pinion brake, they are drums on the hubs. I think the steering would be set up like a Chevy (but I need to double-check).

You are correct on both.

Sounds like fun fab work....get after it.

lowtideride · 03-15-07, 10:56 AM

Sounds sweet....You'll have a super hard time running rear steer with a frame....You'll have to go tube chassy to make it work.

LC_Hamma · 03-15-07, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CreeperSleeper

IIRC, Mog axles don't have a pinion brake, they are drums on the hubs. I think the steering would be set up like a Chevy (but I need to double-check). As for the exhaust, to would tuck up between the framerails and there would be a turndown at the rear axle.

As for bobbing it, I have no desire... well, maybe after I roll it.

No, they don't have a pinion brake... stock.... but they can & I've seen it done if you want to save cost & weight at the axle ends

bustanutley · 03-15-07, 01:24 PM

So, you want to put an entire different drivetrain into your 80 correct? Hate to be a negative Nancy, but you will honestly be miles ahead both monetarily and capability wise by starting over. You will end up with a capable truck, but it will still be a big heavy pig that won’t fit on any of the trails that it is built for. You’ll end up dumping it, destroying all the nice “creature comforts of the 80 and end up starting over anyway. I see that you wheel it hard, based on the pics in your sig, this is good. Take your dream wheeling drivetrain components and stick them in a different smaller carcass or tube cassis and leave your 80 together so you have something to wheel while this couple year project comes together. Cut the fenders, fit 37’s and call your 80 good.

CreeperSleeper · 03-15-07, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bustanutley

So, you want to put an entire different drivetrain into your 80 correct? Hate to be a negative Nancy, but you will honestly be miles ahead both monetarily and capability wise by starting over. You will end up with a capable truck, but it will still be a big heavy pig that won’t fit on any of the trails that it is built for. You’ll end up dumping it, destroying all the nice “creature comforts of the 80 and end up starting over anyway. I see that you wheel it hard, based on the pics in your sig, this is good. Take your dream wheeling drivetrain components and stick them in a different smaller carcass or tube cassis and leave your 80 together so you have something to wheel while this couple year project comes together. Cut the fenders, fit 37’s and call your 80 good.

That is def a good argument... I love my 80, but I do know that eventually I'll be going the route of ActionJackson. My problem currently is my 80 has too much body damage to sell it, so now the decision is do I go extream with it or just build up what I got (5.29s, longfields, moly axles, etc). My issue is I would like to run at least a 40" tire.... (It would make my life easier just because of how big my beast is...)

Maybe I should just enjoy it and build a tubed 40...

brokenparts · 03-15-07, 03:51 PM

leave it as is and get creative with a cutoff tool.

bustanutley · 03-15-07, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CreeperSleeper

Maybe I should just enjoy it and build a tubed 40...

Trust me, this is a good idea. Half the weight and size of an 80 and minimalistic is a very good quality in a wheeler. Surprisingly my sheet metal doesn’t really get that beat up.

Fitting 40s on your 80 and keeping it low enough that it isn’t scary is gonna be a bitch unless you weld your rear door shuts and get crazy with hot flame. Sean’s truck was WAAAAAY too tall. But if you do what I have in my head, that would be cool

I wouldn’t worry about selling your truck, you can get pretty decent coin out of 80 parts once your new wheeler is built and you part out your truck. Like I said before you will spend just as much trying to modify your 80 as you would by starting a new project. I have 5G total in my 40, including purchase price

I may get flamed for this comment, but I think portals (at least in Colorado) are way over-rated. If you are running a 40” tire and know how to drive, you shouldn’t be getting hung up on your axles that much. They complicate things so much and are so spendy. I don’t know, maybe in Oregon you guys have 3’ mud ruts….?

scottryana · 03-15-07, 05:46 PM

I had a very similar plan to your vision, but the sad reality that my wallet couldn't support it set in. You could very easily do rear steer......... Just use U1300 axles. You would have an extra 10" on each side. 3 link the front, 4 link the rear, LS2, 4L80E, 4 speed Atlas, trim front and rear, and you are good to go.

Ryan.

CreeperSleeper · 03-16-07, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bustanutley

Trust me, this is a good idea. Half the weight and size of an 80 and minimalistic is a very good quality in a wheeler. Surprisingly my sheet metal doesn’t really get that beat up.

Fitting 40s on your 80 and keeping it low enough that it isn’t scary is gonna be a bitch unless you weld your rear door shuts and get crazy with hot flame. Sean’s truck was WAAAAAY too tall. But if you do what I have in my head, that would be cool

I wouldn’t worry about selling your truck, you can get pretty decent coin out of 80 parts once your new wheeler is built and you part out your truck. Like I said before you will spend just as much trying to modify your 80 as you would by starting a new project. I have 5G total in my 40, including purchase price

I may get flamed for this comment, but I think portals (at least in Colorado) are way over-rated. If you are running a 40” tire and know how to drive, you shouldn’t be getting hung up on your axles that much. They complicate things so much and are so spendy. I don’t know, maybe in Oregon you guys have 3’ mud ruts….?

If I had 40's with stock axles, I don't think I'd be wishing I had portals... With my 35's I wish I had more clearance. It's good to hear that Shawn's rig is "too high"... I knew that if I built something like that I was going to keep the weight as low as possible, but maybe a 40 is the way to go... *sigh*

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottryana

I had a very similar plan to your vision, but the sad reality that my wallet couldn't support it set in. You could very easily do rear steer......... Just use U1300 axles. You would have an extra 10" on each side. 3 link the front, 4 link the rear, LS2, 4L80E, 4 speed Atlas, trim front and rear, and you are good to go.

Ryan.

That sounds spendy...