meenasota beater buildup

[spctrbytz]

Thought I'd post up some build pics.

Started out as a stock 1974 with what appears to be a late-style top and a terminal case of cancer...

[spctrbytz]

To say that it is a poor candidate for restoration is understating it a bit. I sanded off all the rust visible on the outer panels, and hit it with some primer. Under the fenders, there were numerous repair panels riveted in place. Further inspection revealed some to be "recycled" road signs!

After a look at what was under the diamondplate (nothing, not even Land Cruiser) I cut out the corner cancer and bent up some galvanized to give the Cruiser a semblance of its original shape. It was ugly enough to cover with thick sealer and reinstall the diamondplate.

To clear the larger rubber, I cut a bit from the rear fenders and installed some flares that were given to me. Wrong brand for the purists but couldn't beat the price!

[spctrbytz]

Here's where it morphs from weekend project to life-sucking entity: The thought hit me: "An automatic transmission sure would be nice in this thing". Should have smacked myself right then. Turns out that pretty much the only way to get a GM automatic transmission in one of these things is along with a GM engine.

Before I regained my composure, the following was purchased: A 3.8 Liter Buick V-6 complete with a TH350, a Downey Adapter, and a Toyota mini-truck transfer case. Oh, great. Now I've gotta change the rear axle.... might as well do it right...

[spctrbytz]

Fabbed up a transmission mount, may end up having to totally redo it once it's time for a front driveshaft...

[spctrbytz]

Here's what it looks like as of today, will post more pics as work progresses....

[Eskimo]

Budbuilt has a TH350/700R4 clocking ring that'll work with that adapter.. it's sweet. Cheap too.

It's not on his website, but he's got 'em.. Give him a call..

[spctrbytz]

Thanks, I'll check it out. Might very well need to clock the case ... and might end up going with a 700R4 if I can get the package any shorter.... this is an old-style Downey adapter and it is pretty long.

Here's a shot as of today. That front end is a kingpin-style Dana 60 from a SRW Chevrolet. The suspension wil be a 3-link suspended by air shocks. Also attached is a picture of one of the link brackets highlighting my crappy welding skillz.

[bandy rooster]

what front axle is that :cringe: ?

[spctrbytz]

Yes.

[kling-on]

cool are you flippin the springs

[spctrbytz]

The rear is SOA on fairly short perches. The front will have radius arms pivoting on heim joints, suspended by some Fox nitrogen air shocks with 14" travel. I think I am going to set it up with about 4" up-travel and the other 10" down. Due to the short passenger axle tube I am limited in space for the shock and radius arm mounts so articulation will be limited with the 14" shocks. If it works out well I can always swap them later. A quick peek at the frame shows the stellar restoration potential of this northern salt lick.

[spctrbytz]

The DOM tubing, the heims, and other goodies were supposed to be shipped last Tuesday or Wednesday... called the vendor up Friday and they had not yet shipped any of it.

What we got done in spite of it:

Settled on a 95 3/4" wheelbase and carefully located the front axle, centered it and set the caster angle at 4 degrees. The pinion is aiming almost square at the transfer case at ride height.

We then removed the stock shock towers, "clearanced" the fenders, and installed new, freshly-fabricated shock towers. The towers are made from .120 2" square tubing and 3/16" plate. Some 14-bolt shock brackets from Ruff Stuff were modified and added to the top end.

We then test-fit the radiator and a couple of fans to see what kind of clearance we have to install a tubular cross-brace between the driver and passenger shock towers. A set of double electric fans are too wide for the Toyota radiator, and my Mustang fan is deep enough that it hits the water pump pulley. I'll need to use a single large pull fan.

Remaining on the front suspension: Build brackets to mount heim joints, build the radius arms and panhard bar. The panhard bar will most likely wait until the drag link is located.

All in all, this was a very productive work day. I had my doubts since my help showed up I was on the roof herding a sewer snake rather than working on the Land Cruiser.

[Mace]

how long a panhard bar??

The arc they create during articualtion makes the axle move side to side, MAke sure you have enough room for the shocks not too hit..

[spctrbytz]

I was worrying about that a little bit. The panhard bar will probably reach from the driver frame rail to somewhere below the bottom of the passenger shock. The relief cut into the shock tower gives around 3 1/2 inches of inboard movement at the other end from the 'reference' position mocked up here..... I hope it's enough!

I think before it gets moved around under its own power I'll remove the shocks and run the suspension through full articulation just to make sure nothing gets clobbered. The motion that seems like it might be risky is full droop on passenger side... limiting straps may need to find their way onto this rig.

[Tapage]

When saw the first pic, I thought .. nice build .. and imagine something with 33" or 35" as much .. after seen a V6 TH350 and swaped rear axle .. at the end D60 and air shocks !

Damn .. ! nothing related with cheap .. but great build !