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Old 01-18-07, 07:27 PM   #31
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Parts are trickling in... (The sa-weeet 3/8" rope it came with is not pictured)

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Old 01-19-07, 06:34 PM   #32
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those are sweet winches.....


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Old 01-28-07, 07:18 PM   #33
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The obligatory "Holy crap these shafts are big" picture.

Yes, I know they're not the desireable shafts, but I'm still gonna have a heckuva time breaking them.. The u-joint ones will go in the rear axle. (I have to buy a pair of short sides for when I narrow the housings)

I got one corner broken down and cleaned up today, as well as stripping my new-to-me 355 Chevy bare. Won't be doing a rebuild on it, just cleaning it up, new seals, and possibly new heads.

There was a SHIT-TON of grease in the knuckle, I went through more than a roll of paper towels, but all the components are enormous... I likey.

About a gallon of water came out of one of the axles' drains though... We'll see what things look like when the chunk comes out.

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Old 02-03-07, 12:25 AM   #34
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Curious... why are you narrowing them? The one thing I love about my Rock's, or any other full width, is the stability in some crazy situations ( mine is 93" outside tire ). I drove one rig that had narrowed Rockwells... just didn't feel right. Hats off to ya for clean fabrication and a VERY nice parts collection keep the pics comin'!

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Old 02-03-07, 09:40 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HIGHLYF View Post
Curious... why are you narrowing them? The one thing I love about my Rock's, or any other full width, is the stability in some crazy situations ( mine is 93" outside tire ). I drove one rig that had narrowed Rockwells... just didn't feel right. Hats off to ya for clean fabrication and a VERY nice parts collection keep the pics comin'!

B
Well, my garage door is only 90" wide.. that would be the first reason.
The chunk being centered will help me get low by letting it go up between the frame rails at full stuff.
I still consider this "full width" though - it's the same width as a 60F with 17x9" wheels with the normal backspacing on 'em.
And, the biggest reason - I always have to do things the freakin hard way, because I'm an idiot.


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Old 02-04-07, 12:41 AM   #36
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Point well taken... especially because of the garage. Looking forward to more updates and pics!

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Old 02-10-07, 09:29 AM   #37
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Mmmm... power. 295hp/330tq stock, should be ~320/360 after the PCM tune.

Nice and clean under the valve covers too.. 55k on the motor.

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Yeah Jack.. Medusa for SURE!!! Can't wait to get this thinned out..

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Build thread --> http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=124040
'01 Chevy 2500HD 8.1 Allison Lux-o-tow

Last edited by Eskimo; 02-10-07 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 02-11-07, 05:42 PM   #38
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who's doing your harness and computer?
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Old 02-11-07, 08:02 PM   #39
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Jim's Performance - www.portfuel.com - recognize the buggy in his logo?


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Old 02-12-07, 10:01 AM   #40
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I LOVE it
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Old 02-15-07, 01:54 PM   #41
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why you gotta make me jealous,

i feel your pain, we just ripped out the harness of a 4 runner fuel injetcted to out to swap engines etc, now i gotta put it back in a different rig. i probably should have labeled a few of the wires. oh well


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cc
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76' fj40

camcrusier13 build threads the following are links, just click, go on try it
Traction Bar
Sliders
Ram Assist
Bumper Poison Spider Style
Shackle Reversal
Half Doors

if your doing it im sure ive done it, need help just ask.......
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Old 02-20-07, 08:32 PM   #42
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a little more progress.. got the brake rotors for the front, pads for all, the last caliper, and the dual-head fuel pickup for the cell in..
I've been stripping the fornt end down to get rear to pull the old motor and cut the frame rails.. I'll probably wait until I have the welder here to tack a brace onto the frame so it doesn't go nuts when I cut it...

I need to narrow the front hoop, and am trying to figure out the best way to do it.. right now I think the tires are going to get into the hoop really bad.. I'll know better once the axles are back and I can mock them up.

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Also got the spool from Randy Ouverson.. another one of those time vs. money things. I would have spent all day welding spider gears into a ball.. this piece is REALLY nice too.. the splines fit tighter than any other part! Oh, and it's big & heavy..

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Old 02-21-07, 12:17 PM   #43
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wooou !! it looks tough !


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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 02-21-07, 05:37 PM   #44
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done yet? haha I love that spool! I think it really shows the reality of how light your rig is going to be.

Just giving ya crap man! Looks awesome!

Sam


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Old 02-22-07, 05:54 AM   #45
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Quote:
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done yet? haha I love that spool! I think it really shows the reality of how light your rig is going to be.
I think the weight of your right foot will account for any weight difference between your rig and mine.. (Sam gets it.. again, and again, and...)

Sam showing me how it's "done"... (That's me walking off-camera, having just slid out from the passenger's seat)


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Build thread --> http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=124040
'01 Chevy 2500HD 8.1 Allison Lux-o-tow
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Old 02-22-07, 09:02 AM   #46
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Holly roll cage batman !


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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 02-22-07, 12:45 PM   #47
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Haha I dont use my right foot THAT much do I?



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Old 03-06-07, 07:49 PM   #48
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Axles are shaved and narrowed...
On to the mockup phase, to see if any of my "calculations" will actually work out in reality.. the short answer is pretty much yes!
The axles are sitting 1/2" higher than they will at trail pressure, and the frame is set at full suspension compression. Should work out to 4.5-5" of compression while keeping 25" belly clearance at ride height.

42's at 5psi-- 13" under the lowest part of the axle which is only a few inches wide..


Front- Yeah, that crossmember has GOT to go, along with a little bit of the frame rails. The towers for the upper links and the chunk are going to be a TIGHT squeeze inside the frame.



Rear- Shouldn't be too big of a deal, though much of the frame visible here is a goner. Won't have a ton of steering angle unless I get more creative with the tube work.. Driveshaft angle is AWESOME. I reallly love the toploaders because of this. At full compression, the driveshaft has about a 0° coming out of the t-case.


Looks like the wheelbase will end up at 114-115". A little longer than I wanted, but I'll live. Gives me the option to go bigger should they ever make skinny 44's..


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Old 03-06-07, 09:36 PM   #49
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From the 2nd to last pic, it looks like the driveshaft might get close to the engine oil pan. How does it look in person.
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Old 03-07-07, 05:44 AM   #50
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Quote:
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From the 2nd to last pic, it looks like the driveshaft might get close to the engine oil pan. How does it look in person.
You're right.. damn near everything is gonna be close to something else at full stuff. The angle finder in that pic is actually just about where the D/S flange sits, and I'm running a 2-piece D/S, which has the carrier bearing running close to the frame, so it comes in at an angle fromt he frame, which helps with clearance. It certainly isn't helping one bit with exhaust routing though, I can tell ya that!

Part of the plan is to run a smaller diameter D/S, having the slip spline at the carrier bearing, instead of the axle end. I believe we used 1.75" tubing to help clear the 700R4's tranny pan on the other section, might wind up trying 1.5" .250 for this end, but I'll leave that up to the driveshaft guy.

Good eye..


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Old 03-07-07, 02:58 PM   #51
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Part of the plan is to run a smaller diameter D/S, having the slip spline at the carrier bearing, instead of the axle end.
Everithing is connected ! you really have plans ..


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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 03-18-07, 08:48 PM   #52
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Out with the old, and in with the new!

Pulled the 305, and cut the frame off as well... Looks like this will allow for better link clearance and to build in some adjustability into the uppers.

Buh-bye.
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It's only a few inches of the frame, really.
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Looks REALLY empty in there!
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Old 03-18-07, 08:51 PM   #53
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Dropped the LS in, after installing the GM flexplate spacer and longer bolts, which lets me use the stock flexplate, and my older model torque convertor.

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Mocked the axle up after installing the engine, and it looks like the WB can get back to 110 or very close to it, vs. the 115 I had guesstimated. 110" was my goal anyway, so this was good. The driveshaft and passenger side links clear the engine by a mile, but the driver's side upper link is what's presenting clearance issues with the belt from the PS pump to the crank. I have an idea to allow for a good 1" more uptravel, but I don't know if I'm willing to sacrifice the triangulation in the links to get it.

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Oh, and it looks like I have to cough up the $250+ for an oil pan setup from a camaro.. The truck pan is several inches deeper than the car, and it hangs down 1" below the belly pan..


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Old 03-19-07, 09:23 PM   #54
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More mockup modifications.. Now will be 24" at the belly with 5" uptravel..


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Build thread --> http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=124040
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Old 03-19-07, 09:29 PM   #55
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This looks awesome. I wish i had the resources to have fun with a build like yours.....

Have fun for me!


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Old 03-20-07, 12:48 AM   #56
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5 inch's up with 24 under the belly with 42 or 44's you will be stoked. Get er done. If you are 110-112 I think you will be pumped.
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Old 03-20-07, 10:09 AM   #57
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