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Old 09-02-06, 02:08 AM   #31
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Keep us posted on how you go putting in the Rover V8. I reckon there a pretty sweet V8 option - my mate has a Rangie and a Landy ute, I think both have the 3.5L. They sound sweet and get good mileage too. Pretty torquey, seem to use low revs. The rangie does it easy towing boat or caravan and never seems to be working hard even on long inclines. Pity the rest of the car lets the motor down though, lol!

Now get back in the shed and drop that donk in!!!

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Old 09-02-06, 06:58 PM   #32
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Pretty nice .. some q !

1. what kind of engine come factory with this rig ..?

2. V6 engine really needs 2 snorkels .. or is only a taste of the owner ..

3. those V8 are from landys ..?

aaaa congrats .. !!!!!!


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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 09-03-06, 05:23 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupdog
Keep us posted on how you go putting in the Rover V8. I reckon there a pretty sweet V8 option - my mate has a Rangie and a Landy ute, I think both have the 3.5L. They sound sweet and get good mileage too. Pretty torquey, seem to use low revs. The rangie does it easy towing boat or caravan and never seems to be working hard even on long inclines. Pity the rest of the car lets the motor down though, lol!

Now get back in the shed and drop that donk in!!!

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Lup,

Hopefully I won't have too many dramas putting the rover V8 in as I've seen these rigs with Holden 253 V8s (similar to a SB Chev).

Apparently these all alloy V8s are lighter than the V6 that I originally wanted to use, which will benefit my low weight goals.

The only disadvantage I can see at this point is that they have twin CD Stromberg carbys rather than the fuel injection of the V6 or the later model Rover V8s. If this proves to be a problem offroad with side slopes etc maybe I could convert to LPG or install EFI from a later 3.9L or 4.6L Rover V8.


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Old 09-03-06, 05:42 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapage
Pretty nice .. some q !

1. what kind of engine come factory with this rig ..?

2. V6 engine really needs 2 snorkels .. or is only a taste of the owner ..

3. those V8 are from landys ..?

aaaa congrats .. !!!!!!
Tapage,

1. Daihatsu's came with a variety of different motors. I can't remember what the F10 came with originally but mine had a Toyota 18R swapped in. F20s had Toyota 12R, 3Y or 4Y motors depending on the year model. My F20 has the 12R. The diesel models had either DG or DL Daihatsu 4cyl motors. My F55 ute has the DG motor. The Toyota Blizzard version of the Daihatsu had "L" series Toyota diesels.

2. The Holden Commodore V6 only requires one snorkel. I guess Piglet likes the look of twin snorkels. The Rover V8 has twin carbs and twin air cleaners so I'll probably need to use twin snorkels, although I'm thinking I might try to route them under the cab and up behind the cab to the top of the headboard of the tray so they don't get torn off in tight trees or rocks.

3. Yes these V8s are Rover V8s and they were originally used in Range Rovers, Land Rovers, Discoveries, Rover 3500 passenger cars and many others. Of the two I got there is an original Range Rover 3.5 which doesn't go and a 3.5 from a Rover 3500 which is suppossed to be a good motor. So at least I'll have a few spares for the good one.


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Old 09-04-06, 12:07 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Mickldo
I think I will just stay with standard Rangie components for a while before I think of making Hybrids etc.
you'll regret this. rangie centers make 80 front diffs and hilux diffs look unbreakable (unlocked rangie on 31s blew the center through the diff cover plate on a section where a standard 40 walked it in 2wd) same section saw another rover blow both rear axles and a cv on 33's, and he wasn't giving the truck a hard time.


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Old 09-04-06, 03:13 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bad_religion_au
you'll regret this. rangie centers make 80 front diffs and hilux diffs look unbreakable (unlocked rangie on 31s blew the center through the diff cover plate on a section where a standard 40 walked it in 2wd) same section saw another rover blow both rear axles and a cv on 33's, and he wasn't giving the truck a hard time.
After I wrote this I was cleaning the shed up to make room for all this **** and I noticed all my standard 80 series suspension sitting there and thought I should try to use this stuff rather than buy more **** especially stuff of dubious benefit. So now I'm thinking about using the standard Daihatsu diffs and coiling them or getting some Toyota axles to coil. The Daihatsu diffs; I already own three pairs of but they are narrow and diff locks aren't available (except CIG). The Toyota diffs; better option in long run but more expensive initially.

You're right about the strength. I helped build a 3.9L V8 Discovery Ute comp truck for a mate but he blew three front diffs in three weeks. This is why I was contemplating making up the Hybrid diffs using the Toyota centres and axles.

I'll just have to see if I can find some Toyota axles for the right price.


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Old 09-04-06, 03:25 AM   #37
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Does anybody have a link to the "link suspension for dummies" thread on Pirate? I'm not a member there and the search function is only available to red star holders. I used to have it saved as a favourite on my old puter but not on this one yet.


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Old 09-04-06, 04:26 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickldo
Does anybody have a link to the "link suspension for dummies" thread on Pirate? I'm not a member there and the search function is only available to red star holders. I used to have it saved as a favourite on my old puter but not on this one yet.
Stop looking! I found it.

Suprise, suprise I did a search on Mud and found the link.

Link suspension for dummies: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ht=suspensions


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Old 09-04-06, 07:56 AM   #39
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for a comp truck i wouldn't bother with the 3 link front from the 80, and i'm not sure if the coils would be too stiff for a lightweight dihatsu. but linking some yota or nissan diffs sounds like a good plan. some GQ diffs perhaps? i'd suggest lux diffs but alot of guys strip the teeth off the crownwheel of them too. i know you wanted to keep the diffs light, but they are going to see a hell of alot of abuse in a comp situation


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Old 09-04-06, 11:43 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickldo
Rover 3500 which is suppossed to be a good motor. So at least I'll have a few spares for the good one.
I thought this engine it's mostly a hi rpm engine .. but low torque .. ?


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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 09-04-06, 11:57 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Tapage
I thought this engine it's mostly a hi rpm engine .. but low torque .. ?
they put out a little under what a 2f does, although your right, it's higher in the rev range.


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Old 09-04-06, 01:08 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by bad_religion_au
they put out a little under what a 2f does, although your right, it's higher in the rev range.

I suppose that .. and just wondering about the gearing that ou must need to place in your diff ( or t-case ) to keep the engine happy and your speed under control ..


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Old 09-05-06, 03:00 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bad_religion_au
for a comp truck i wouldn't bother with the 3 link front from the 80, and i'm not sure if the coils would be too stiff for a lightweight dihatsu. but linking some yota or nissan diffs sounds like a good plan. some GQ diffs perhaps? i'd suggest lux diffs but alot of guys strip the teeth off the crownwheel of them too. i know you wanted to keep the diffs light, but they are going to see a hell of alot of abuse in a comp situation
After visiting the local 4wd wrecker today and finding a complete lack of coiled Toyota housings I think I will try to link some Hilux axles. This should be a lot cheaper option too, rather than the more desirable coiled housings.

I'm not a fan of GQ's in general, but I don't want the diffs as they are over rated for strength and way too heavy and the pumpkin is way to big. After seeing the lighter rigs have no problems with their diffs and the heavier rigs (GQ's) have numerous failures I think a well built light axle will be all I need. A set of air lockers and some longfields or haultech CVs and I shouldn't have too many problems, I don't think. Lawrie Sternbeck said that his CV's were the same ones he used at the OBC in may and he has had no dramas with them at all. Piglet uses the Hilux axles as well in his Daihatsu. The mate I went the last round with had a GQ and he broke three CV's in three stages. Another GQ driver broke five CV's for the weekend.

AFAIK I've heard that the Toyota, Nissan and Rover CV's are all the same size balls and cages inside and it is just the outer bell that is thicker on the Nissans but the Nissans have thicker axles so the inner spider the balls run on is thinner. Most of the GQ CV failures I've seen have been the inner spider splitting and causing the inner spline to slip and destroy the axle as well. Most of the Nissan guys are starting to go to GU axles but they have thicker axles again. The Toyotas usually fail around the outer bell, this is why the longfields have the extra welded on ring.

From what I've heard about the Hilux crownwheel failures is that it is caused by the standard hemisphere flexing, by replacing it with an air locker this flexing is removed making a far stronger diff. I think it also depends on what ratio you are running as far as strength of the R & P goes.

Thanks for your replies bad_religion_au.It keeps me thinking about the best options for the project.


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Old 09-05-06, 03:05 AM   #44
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Daihatsu Truck with Hilux Axles does sound good.


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Old 09-05-06, 03:18 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapage
I suppose that .. and just wondering about the gearing that ou must need to place in your diff ( or t-case ) to keep the engine happy and your speed under control ..
This was why I wanted an auto, to be able to control the speed a little bit better. Although if I end up fitting a manual I'll need to look at gearing reduction a bit more. The Land Rover T/case has a low range of around 4:1 so this is pretty good anyway for starters. I think the Rangie has 3.5:1 diffs standard so if I use Hilux diffs I can go 4.875:1 or 5.29:1.


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Old 09-05-06, 03:20 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Jonathan_Ferguson
Daihatsu Truck with Hilux Axles does sound good.
This is what Piglet is running so I know it works.


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Old 09-05-06, 07:37 AM   #47
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yep the rover case and some high 4.something lux diffs will see your low range being very sweet. i got no idea about hilux diff failure, i just know a few guys in the club have issues with them... and they're airlocked

but they are on hilux's, so the lighter dihatsu will be prime.

if i were building a hardcore axle with common cv;s i'd go toyota, there are heaps more upgrades (i.e. longfields) and with the nissan gear, they're finding the stub shaft thickness is the biggest weakness, and there is no easy fix to that.

linking some leaf diffs is the way to go. i doubt you'd want to keep much of the factory geometry of a coil diff anyway... so go for cheaper.

looks like i agree with your final plan


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Old 09-05-06, 09:58 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by bad_religion_au
yep the rover case and some high 4.something lux diffs will see your low range being very sweet.
I thought is a very pretty nice option .. never know about the rover t-case ( i'm not a rover fan ) but 4:1 sounds great .. with 4.88 as standard gearing in much Hi Lux ( 2L and 2LT ) optiones .. you are done ..

Done for movinf pretty well 33" or 35" tires with auto tranny ..


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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 09-05-06, 10:11 AM   #49
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the rover cases are closer to 3.5:1, and stronger than most toy options if you upgrade the center shaft in the center diff lock.


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Old 09-06-06, 01:18 AM   #50
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So did you get a rangie auto with the V8 motors? I don't think they have the best reputation (reliability) but gut feeling is it might hold up alright in a lightweight rig. If you got one already and Auto is the way your going whack it in and if it s**ts itself then it s**ts itself!
Great project!

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Old 09-06-06, 01:43 AM   #51
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from my experience talking to rover guys and guys that use them in buggies, the auto and t case from the rangie is beefy as. most rangie issues are wiring, or poor build quality related, not basic drivetrain failure (well except axles)


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Old 09-06-06, 02:07 AM   #52
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Hehe, x2 on the wiring! Definately their biggest problem, lol.

My experience is pretty limited to two friends that have had rangies and both have had transmission probs - however, it may just be luck (or bad luck), of the draw with theirs. Every rig breaks something sooner or later....apart from cruisers! I just love to rag on rangies cos my mate has twice as many probs as me and i let him know about it! All good fun (except for his wallet!)

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Old 09-07-06, 04:50 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupdog
So did you get a rangie auto with the V8 motors? I don't think they have the best reputation (reliability) but gut feeling is it might hold up alright in a lightweight rig. If you got one already and Auto is the way your going whack it in and if it s**ts itself then it s**ts itself!
Great project!

Lup
I wish I got the auto!

I got the R380 G/box which is a 5-speed manual. It is the manual box that normally bolts to the LT230 T/case that I want to use. If I can't find a auto I'll rebuild the R380 and use it. Hopefully I'll be able to find somebody wrecking a Disco or Rangie and get an auto and a LT230.

The early Land Rover stuff had strength problems but most of the later stuff is pretty good.


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Old 09-07-06, 05:03 AM   #54
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from my experience talking to rover guys and guys that use them in buggies, the auto and t case from the rangie is beefy as. most rangie issues are wiring, or poor build quality related, not basic drivetrain failure (well except axles)
I used to work at a Land Rover Hire 4x4 place, maintaining the fleet. I agree their biggest problems are their build quality (they don't have any) and their wiring (Lucas- Prince of Darkness).

Because the 3.5L I bought have twin carbs I might look at fitting EFI off of a later 3.9L. Apparently the electrics for the 3.9L EFI are **** but I have heard of a DIY aftermarket computer that you can upgrade the system with. IIRC it is called a "Mega Pulse" system (or something similar) and it only costs something like $200. You have to build the computer PCB yourself but they reckon it's not too hard. IIRC there is a large thread on the subject somewhere on Outers in the Rover section.


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Old 09-07-06, 10:36 AM   #55
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i've heard of guys using the megasquirt to do EFI on a 2f as well. any reason you won't run lpg? it's cheap, runs on angles, sealed tank (no fuel worries on really bad side angles/ rollovers, and keeps it simple, no computers etc to kill.

just my personal preference


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