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Old 07-26-06, 11:30 AM   #1
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FJ60 1-ton Superduty build

Thought I would start a thread for my FJ60 build since I have started to put it together. This all started when I picked up a set of Superduty dually axles that I traded the spacers & Dana 80 for the Sterling. Here is the plan:

TBI350 (Already there)
700r4 (Already there, rebuilding myself & installing a 4wd output shaft)
Ford NP203 w/ 27 spline input using a np208/700r4 adapter
Northwest clockable adapter to Ford driverside drop NP205
2002 front Superduty Dana 60 w/ 4.10's & ARB
2003 rear Ford sterling 10.5" w/ 4.10's & posi (until I get a Detroit)
8-bolt hummer beaqdlocks recentered with Superduty pattern.
the wheels came with almost brand new 36" goodyear for almost free so I'll probably run them for a while until I get the scratch for some TSL 38's.

I need to figure out steering but I may just go with the bent draglink that all lifted Superduties use until I can figure out some highsteer setup by milling the knuckles. anyone have ideas or info on balljoint Dana 60 highsteer I'd appreciate it

I bolted up the sterling last night... can you say BEEFY?:
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Old 07-26-06, 11:35 AM   #2
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sorry for the quality of the pics... I only had my cell phone

Here is the 60 front.... I need to outboard about 4.5"
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Old 07-26-06, 11:47 AM   #3
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thats sick!

and very cool


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Old 07-26-06, 04:40 PM   #4
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damn son thats awesome

have a pic of the whole truck. the yellow is pretty sick lookin


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Old 07-26-06, 05:03 PM   #5
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http://www.offroadunlimited.com/Prod...5&idproduct=42

this maybe ??? cross over for a stock(lifted) supper duty




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Old 07-26-06, 06:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kling-on
http://www.offroadunlimited.com/Prod...5&idproduct=42

this maybe ??? cross over for a stock(lifted) supper duty



They want close to $500 for that knuckle and it only puts the drag link above the springs.... I'm going to look into making something similar to dana 44 arms.


tclndcrz, heres a pic of it on the side of a volcano at close to 12,000':
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Old 07-26-06, 08:53 PM   #7
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We need to trade diff covers


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Old 07-27-06, 09:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mace
We need to trade diff covers

pick me one up from blue torch or great lakes & you've got a deal
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Old 07-27-06, 02:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixty
tclndcrz, heres a pic of it on the side of a volcano at close to 12,000':
11799..!!!! where is .. which Volcano . ?


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Quote:
Originally Posted by pygpen
if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 07-27-06, 04:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapage
11799..!!!! where is .. which Volcano . ?
I thought the GPS coordinates were a give away, eres tan flojo

Wish it was in central america but its Mauna Kea on the Big Island of Hawaii. Its actually 14,000 feet high but I went up the back side where I used to hunt for chukar partridge & sheep. got caught in a bliizzard there one year & it dumpe about 2 feet of snow & the temp dropped to about 25*F


Maybe someday I'll make it down south & we can wheel some Volcanos together
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Old 07-27-06, 10:55 PM   #11
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It looks like Dynatrac has a better option for your BJ steering:
http://www.dynatrac.com/products_pro...rknuckles.html

Are you going to run rod ends or tie rods? I'd really like to see a hysteer arm that accepts rod ends in double shear....


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Old 07-28-06, 09:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixty
I thought the GPS coordinates were a give away, eres tan flojo
algo de eso puede haber .. pero gracias por la info


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Quote:
Originally Posted by pygpen
if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 07-28-06, 11:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LC_Hamma
It looks like Dynatrac has a better option for your BJ steering:
http://www.dynatrac.com/products_pro...rknuckles.html

Are you going to run rod ends or tie rods? I'd really like to see a hysteer arm that accepts rod ends in double shear....

I picked up the stock steering linkages (beefy) yesterday so it looks like i'll be going that route & if it turns out to be a problem then later I'll figure out high steer.

The dynatrack knuckles are nice but they don't fit the unit hub bearing spindles, so it would be all new parts and not have the metric lug patter. Tera makes some that should work & they are about $800 a pair... still too rich for my blood so far....

a double shear arm sounds $$$$ its probably easier to make the arms bigger & then use larger rod ends/ bolts
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Old 07-28-06, 11:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapage
algo de eso puede haber .. pero gracias por la info
De nada amigo!
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Old 07-28-06, 11:25 AM   #15
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outboarding pics

Heres a few pics of the beginning of the outboarding process. I have to outboard 4.5". I made the section I outboarded long to hopefully sprea the torsion load accross the frame. its all 1/4" plate, excuse the overhead welds.. I was having trouble filling the chamfered edge & still get good pen, they'll look much better after some griding & painting

Let me know what you guys think... I'm adding some more gusseting to add rigidity.

I also thru in another cleare rear axle shot for posterity
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Old 07-28-06, 11:29 AM   #16
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Oh yeah, I've been using my new Mitech plasma and once I got the hang of it there is no better tool for a project like this... it will cut 1/4" with little clean up at about 2-3' per miniute.... awsome & they are only $430 on Ebay shipped!
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Old 07-28-06, 12:06 PM   #17
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This super mega ultra rear axle .. comes in a ford 350 ... ?

And you plan run 44" . ?


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Quote:
Originally Posted by pygpen
if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 07-28-06, 12:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapage
This super mega ultra rear axle .. comes in a ford 350 ... ?

And you plan run 44" . ?

Its Fords equivelent of a dana 70... Ford uses them in all 3/4 ton & 1 ton trucks. this one came out of an power stroke 1ton so it has the upgraded (3 bearing I think) pinion.


I'm going with 38's when I can get the $$ so I should have no fear of breaking the rear! you shoud have seen the dana80 I traded for this thing... that pumpkin was huge!
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Old 08-01-06, 12:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixty
Its Fords equivelent of a dana 70... Ford uses them in all 3/4 ton & 1 ton trucks. this one came out of an power stroke 1ton so it has the upgraded (3 bearing I think) pinion.
When I saw this 3rd member I think .. that was huge .. ! tu run over 40" tires .. less than I thought it hurt your clearance .. ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixty
I'm going with 38's when I can get the $$ so I should have no fear of breaking the rear! you shoud have seen the dana80 I traded for this thing... that pumpkin was huge!
Why use huge axles .. refering to 3rd members .. with less clearance and weight in your aplication if you can run a mire " light " duty axles as Toy and no worryes about the strengt.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by pygpen
if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 08-01-06, 01:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapage

Why use huge axles .. refering to 3rd members .. with less clearance and weight in your aplication if you can run a mire " light " duty axles as Toy and no worryes about the strengt.

Because I needed width and an axle that would have the matching metric bolt pattern as the superduty front. the only other full width fullfloater axle that would have more clearance would be a Dana 60 rear and I would only have gained about 1" and would have had to add Disc brakes w/ no parking brake & redrill the flange etc... and it would not have been as strong (but probably more than enough)

I'm not losing that much more clearance from my previous fullfloater cruiser axle & the large 38's will more than make up for that.
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Old 08-02-06, 11:44 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixty
(but probably more than enough)
Sure yes .. !

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixty
I'm not losing that much more clearance from my previous fullfloater cruiser axle & the large 38's will more than make up for that.
Yesterday I take a measurement of my rear clearance with 37" MTR in good overal Shape ( maybe 5 k milles on it ) my rear SF TLC axle ..

11.75" was my number ..

with 38" and your actuall Steeerling axles .. maybe 11" .. ?


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Quote:
Originally Posted by pygpen
if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 08-03-06, 02:47 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapage
Sure yes .. !



Yesterday I take a measurement of my rear clearance with 37" MTR in good overal Shape ( maybe 5 k milles on it ) my rear SF TLC axle ..

11.75" was my number ..

with 38" and your actuall Steeerling axles .. maybe 11" .. ?

I'll know in a month or so...
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Old 08-03-06, 03:55 PM   #23
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Do you need to worry about welding the rear axles tubes? I've heard about the sterling axles tubes coming loose.


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Old 08-04-06, 10:10 AM   #24
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I've never heard of it.. I'll hve to check into that... Thanks!
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Old 08-04-06, 11:22 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixty
I've never heard of it.. I'll hve to check into that... Thanks!
Here are the threads.. Also, there seems to be an issue with the pinion nut coming loose.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...rling+problems

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=sterling+axle


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Last edited by fj40charles; 08-04-06 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 08-04-06, 03:03 PM   #26
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Here are the threads.. Also, there seems to be an issue with the pinion nut coming loose.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...rling+problems

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=sterling+axle

Thanks for the links,
I don't think I'll have issues spinning tubes since I won't be pulling huge loads and my frame is going to be the weak spot anyways.. This is also an 03' 10.5" so I'm sure ford has fixed most of the problems over the last 25 years, but who knows.... this is still a major upgrade from the toyota full floater I removed.


I may be going 6BT someday but until then I wont worry...
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