Thought I would start a thread for my FJ60 build since I have started to put it together. This all started when I picked up a set of Superduty dually axles that I traded the spacers & Dana 80 for the Sterling. Here is the plan:
TBI350 (Already there)
700r4 (Already there, rebuilding myself & installing a 4wd output shaft)
Ford NP203 w/ 27 spline input using a np208/700r4 adapter
Northwest clockable adapter to Ford driverside drop NP205
2002 front Superduty Dana 60 w/ 4.10's & ARB
2003 rear Ford sterling 10.5" w/ 4.10's & posi (until I get a Detroit)
8-bolt hummer beaqdlocks recentered with Superduty pattern.
the wheels came with almost brand new 36" goodyear for almost free so I'll probably run them for a while until I get the scratch for some TSL 38's.
I need to figure out steering but I may just go with the bent draglink that all lifted Superduties use until I can figure out some highsteer setup by milling the knuckles. anyone have ideas or info on balljoint Dana 60 highsteer I'd appreciate it
I bolted up the sterling last night... can you say BEEFY?:
this maybe ??? cross over for a stock(lifted) supper duty
They want close to $500 for that knuckle and it only puts the drag link above the springs.... I'm going to look into making something similar to dana 44 arms.
tclndcrz, heres a pic of it on the side of a volcano at close to 12,000':
I thought the GPS coordinates were a give away, eres tan flojo
Wish it was in central america but its Mauna Kea on the Big Island of Hawaii. Its actually 14,000 feet high but I went up the back side where I used to hunt for chukar partridge & sheep. got caught in a bliizzard there one year & it dumpe about 2 feet of snow & the temp dropped to about 25*F
Maybe someday I'll make it down south & we can wheel some Volcanos together
Are you going to run rod ends or tie rods? I'd really like to see a hysteer arm that accepts rod ends in double shear....
I picked up the stock steering linkages (beefy) yesterday so it looks like i'll be going that route & if it turns out to be a problem then later I'll figure out high steer.
The dynatrack knuckles are nice but they don't fit the unit hub bearing spindles, so it would be all new parts and not have the metric lug patter. Tera makes some that should work & they are about $800 a pair... still too rich for my blood so far....
a double shear arm sounds $$$$ its probably easier to make the arms bigger & then use larger rod ends/ bolts
Heres a few pics of the beginning of the outboarding process. I have to outboard 4.5". I made the section I outboarded long to hopefully sprea the torsion load accross the frame. its all 1/4" plate, excuse the overhead welds.. I was having trouble filling the chamfered edge & still get good pen, they'll look much better after some griding & painting
Let me know what you guys think... I'm adding some more gusseting to add rigidity.
I also thru in another cleare rear axle shot for posterity
Oh yeah, I've been using my new Mitech plasma and once I got the hang of it there is no better tool for a project like this... it will cut 1/4" with little clean up at about 2-3' per miniute.... awsome & they are only $430 on Ebay shipped!
This super mega ultra rear axle .. comes in a ford 350 ... ?
And you plan run 44" . ?
Its Fords equivelent of a dana 70... Ford uses them in all 3/4 ton & 1 ton trucks. this one came out of an power stroke 1ton so it has the upgraded (3 bearing I think) pinion.
I'm going with 38's when I can get the $$ so I should have no fear of breaking the rear! you shoud have seen the dana80 I traded for this thing... that pumpkin was huge!
Its Fords equivelent of a dana 70... Ford uses them in all 3/4 ton & 1 ton trucks. this one came out of an power stroke 1ton so it has the upgraded (3 bearing I think) pinion.
When I saw this 3rd member I think .. that was huge .. ! tu run over 40" tires .. less than I thought it hurt your clearance .. ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixty
I'm going with 38's when I can get the $$ so I should have no fear of breaking the rear! you shoud have seen the dana80 I traded for this thing... that pumpkin was huge!
Why use huge axles .. refering to 3rd members .. with less clearance and weight in your aplication if you can run a mire " light " duty axles as Toy and no worryes about the strengt.
Why use huge axles .. refering to 3rd members .. with less clearance and weight in your aplication if you can run a mire " light " duty axles as Toy and no worryes about the strengt.
Because I needed width and an axle that would have the matching metric bolt pattern as the superduty front. the only other full width fullfloater axle that would have more clearance would be a Dana 60 rear and I would only have gained about 1" and would have had to add Disc brakes w/ no parking brake & redrill the flange etc... and it would not have been as strong (but probably more than enough)
I'm not losing that much more clearance from my previous fullfloater cruiser axle & the large 38's will more than make up for that.
kling-on
BJ42
Patches
Stink Pickle
Mace
Bellota
Marilu
Tencha
algo de eso puede haber .. pero gracias por la info 
I was having trouble filling the chamfered edge & still get good pen, they'll look much better after some griding & painting 
Linear Mode
