FJ60 1-ton Superduty build - Page 2

Mace · 08-31-06, 03:36 PM

I was referring to the 305 Nitto's on the stock Stupid duty rims.

Exactly what I have

Besides, My front axle is only a D50.. Wimpy stuff compared to your D60

sixty · 08-31-06, 03:53 PM

We use the same unit bearing & knuckles... how many miles did you say you had on your unit bearings?

euclid · 09-07-06, 09:31 AM

Updates?

Radd Cruisers · 09-08-06, 08:44 AM

Nice workmanship on th e plating and welding.

As mentioned to me by Medusa, platting the side of the frame prior to welding on brackest help do two things. Spread the load and the thicker plate is less likely to tear than the fairly thing frame material..

Rob

QUOTE=sixty]update:

I outboarded the springs, installed the ARB in the 60 & put it on a set of 34"
tires I borrowed from my freind.... this dam thing just keeps getting taller

[/quote]

sixty · 09-13-06, 10:40 AM

No real updates... I rebuilt the 205 (didn't need it) & am in the process of putting the double together, but thats about it.

When thats done I need to install the entire trans/ t-case copmbo so I can fab up a cross memeber.. Then I need to pull it & rebuild the trans & figure out shifters... I still have tons of stuff left.

last night I was building a welding table that Jason M found out in the desert

We cut in half & he got half & I got half.

Radd,

I didnt plate the face of the frame but used the angled plates to spread the torsion load and add more length of weld for more redundancy. I'm slightly worried about the torsion of the overall frame but I don't think it will be an issue

sixty · 09-25-06, 10:49 AM

Update.. almos got the t-cases together & Northwest sent me an adapter for a GM203 not a Ford. Its gonna take close to 2 weeks to get the parts from Canada so I decided to tackle the brakes yesterday.

I'm going with a Booster & NON ABS master off of an 03' F350 talk about an upgrade:

sixty · 09-25-06, 10:58 AM

The bolt pattern for the booster was about 1/4" less in width & 1/4" more in height as well as the booster is centered on the pattern where the Toyota booster is offset by about 1/4" all of this cause the bolt holes to overlap by about 1/8". The way I dealt with this was to build a 3/16" steel plate that matched the bolt pattern of the Ford booster & then tack welded it to the firewall. I then drilled the holes all the way thru the firewall. After checking that the booster mounted up I fully welded the plate to the firewall. The only pic I took was the installed pic since I was feeling lazy

sixty · 09-25-06, 11:03 AM

The booster rod is about 1" longer & uses a 5/8" pin. I modified the brake pedal to uses an offset 5/8" pin in double shear. Here is what I ended up with:

sixty · 09-25-06, 11:09 AM

Sorry for the crappy cellphone pics, for some reason the booster/master comparrison pic is cutoff on the bottom.

There's a hell of alot of steel on that brake pedal, but I wanted to make sure it would not fail.

Mace · 09-25-06, 11:09 AM

Still need the pic???

Sorry amigo

I can go take one right now.

sixty · 09-25-06, 11:13 AM

It probably wouldn't hurt.... I could also use the dimension of the distance from the pivot point to the booster rod & from the pivot point to the bottom of the pedal. Then the distance of the deal to the floor... or you could drop by my office on your way home & I could get that info

Thanks

Mace · 09-25-06, 11:56 AM

I'll just stop on by

sixty · 12-08-06, 10:45 AM

Well its been ahwhile since my last update. I have the whole doubler rebuilt & together, clocked & installed in the truck. Last night I finished the cross member. This is one HEAVY, long combo (probably 250lbs+).

The crossmember is built using 1-1/4" schedule 40 pipe using fj60 spring bushings at the frame. It mounts to 3 points; the trans adapter, the doubler adapter & the side of the 205. hopefully its strong enough to hold the combo firmly without bending. I need to replace the rubber bushings in the motor mounts with Poly to hopefully sychronize the engine/ trans combo movement.

Anyone know where to get Poly bushing to fit the crappy AA motor mounts?

The 205 is tucked to within 1/4" of the body (after clearancing of about 1" couretesy of my BFH) & the 203 hangs below the frame by 4". I would have had to cut the body to get it any higher.

The front driveshaft is going to be a HAD 1-ton CV @ 42" long & the rear is the same but only 29" due to the long pinion on the Sterling & the long drive train. one thing I found out, is that the Sterling is passenger offset by about 1.5" (roughly 3 degrees) so hopefully it will not give me a vibration.

Now I need to pull everything out & clean things up. Then I need to fab tripple shifters since the trans is costing 2x what I had anticipated ($1150, so prefabbed cable shifters will be out of the question).

I'll also be pulling the Sterling to clean it up & install the detroit.

I almost have the steering together & I should be able to post pics tommorrow. its pretty funky (the same as lifted Superdutys) but should work ok. This is the area where balljoint 60's suck because ther is no real reliable way to get highsteer. Tera makes some knuckles that may work but they are $800+, for that price I'd buy another 60 & install the parts on my axle from the 'C's" out.

Here's the pics:

sixty · 12-08-06, 10:48 AM

last pic:

Mace · 12-08-06, 08:58 PM

Nice pipe

sixty · 12-08-06, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mace

Nice pipe

sixty · 12-15-06, 12:08 PM

Here's a pic of my front Diff slider... Err a Tie rod

.

the drag link is pretty steep but is not as bad as it looks since it has the bend in it. all of the parts are VERY solid so I don't think I'll have a problem with bending but bump steer will hopefully be negligible. You can see the custom link (1"X16 LH & RH threads) that Mace's buddy built for me, Very beefy & nice. I still owe him bigtime!

I was pretty worried about the geometry but there are Superdutys all over town with 6" lifts that have the same geometry & low tie rod so I think I'll be ok.

Unfortunaly there is no good way to get highsteer on balljoints 60's so some day I may have to convert over to kingpin.

Let me know what you guys think!

I have the shifters together & figured out a way to have a mechanical linkage tripple shifter on the passenger side with driver side linkages. I build it all with too light of componenants so I'll be rebuilding much beefier this weekend. I should be able to post pics next week.

Mace · 12-15-06, 12:13 PM

Nice shiny linky thing

sixty · 12-16-06, 11:37 PM

Got the shifters together last night. Since I wanted to keep my shifters on the passenger side, this is what I came up with.

Its built using the following:

5/8" rod for the shifter arms welded to machined 5/8" plate that bolts to the 3/4" rod that I used for pivots. The pivots are made using 3/4" schedule 40 (I love pipe

) bored to 7/8" with oil impregenated bronze bushings. The links are made with 3/8" rod ends and the mounting plate is made of 1/4" plate cut on the plasma to bolt to the 208 adapter.

They work flawlessly and are super strong so I should not have any problems later. I may have to massage the trans hump to clear everything.

Should have the rebuilt trans & everything bolted in by tomorrow or Monday, then its time to install the Detroit in the Sterling.

in total it will cost around $150 in parts (I screwed up and had to redo it all to make it stronger) instead of the $450+ for a cable shifter setup.

Mace · 12-17-06, 09:09 AM

Nice

euclid · 12-17-06, 05:11 PM

Tapage · 12-18-06, 08:42 AM

very very impresive !

sixty · 12-18-06, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tapage

very very impresive !

Thanks!

Its all painted & I should have it installed by next weekend.
It all looks ALOT better with paint on it!

Mace · 12-18-06, 01:49 PM

BTW, thanks for letting me come over.

Annie was so impressed with your plasma she got me one for Xmas

sixty · 12-18-06, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tapage

very very impresive !

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mace

BTW, thanks for letting me come over.

Annie was so impressed with your plasma she got me one for Xmas

Sweet! Hope she went with the Parker Dual volatege machine. that the best deal out there right now.

Mace · 12-18-06, 04:53 PM

Single voltage parker.

He gave me the scratch and dent price on a brand spankin new one...

I am tired of moving welder/thingies all over the place.

Hank · 12-23-06, 12:40 PM

I like the fabwork on the shifters. I might be missing something in the pic but are you supporting the handlever end of them at all? If not is that part of the reason for the beefier material on the redesign? I have to do a similar setup with my TH350/203/Ford205 to get my shifters where I want them. I hope to end up on the passenger side of the trans hump with room for an Art Carr style shifter. Nice work, keep it up.

08-31-06, 03:36 PM	#31
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,446	I was referring to the 305 Nitto's on the stock Stupid duty rims. Exactly what I have Besides, My front axle is only a D50.. Wimpy stuff compared to your D60 __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

09-07-06, 09:31 AM	#33
euclid IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: May 2002 Location: Jackson, MS TLCA# 13014 Posts: 2,781	Updates? __________________ Greg Thompson CottonLand Cruisers 89 FJ62: OME 2.5, 2" BL, Superior shackles, F250 towers, 315 BFG KM2's on zj80 wheels, Extreme A440, FF,4:88,RDB,longs,ARB front,Lockright rear,Warn XD9K in Rover AL bumper, Wildernes Roofrack, Marlin Sliders, SROR 1/4 sliders. Land Speeder is sick

09-08-06, 08:44 AM	#34
Radd Cruisers IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Vancouver Island BC Canada Posts: 3,616	Nice workmanship on th e plating and welding. As mentioned to me by Medusa, platting the side of the frame prior to welding on brackest help do two things. Spread the load and the thicker plate is less likely to tear than the fairly thing frame material.. Rob QUOTE=sixty]update: I outboarded the springs, installed the ARB in the 60 & put it on a set of 34" tires I borrowed from my freind.... this dam thing just keeps getting taller [/quote] __________________ Check out our new location in Duncan, BC www.raddcruisers.ca --> 60 Series Cable Lockers available - 4.11s or 3.70s - all hardware included --> 12HT & H55F combos available - complete & running Limited Quantities - Deposit or Full Payment Required to hold your order while they ship

09-25-06, 10:49 AM	#36
sixty IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Back in Vegas Posts: 497	Update.. almos got the t-cases together & Northwest sent me an adapter for a GM203 not a Ford. Its gonna take close to 2 weeks to get the parts from Canada so I decided to tackle the brakes yesterday. I'm going with a Booster & NON ABS master off of an 03' F350 talk about an upgrade: Attached Images

09-25-06, 10:58 AM	#37
sixty IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Back in Vegas Posts: 497	The bolt pattern for the booster was about 1/4" less in width & 1/4" more in height as well as the booster is centered on the pattern where the Toyota booster is offset by about 1/4" all of this cause the bolt holes to overlap by about 1/8". The way I dealt with this was to build a 3/16" steel plate that matched the bolt pattern of the Ford booster & then tack welded it to the firewall. I then drilled the holes all the way thru the firewall. After checking that the booster mounted up I fully welded the plate to the firewall. The only pic I took was the installed pic since I was feeling lazy Attached Images

08-31-06, 03:53 PM	#32
sixty IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Back in Vegas Posts: 497	We use the same unit bearing & knuckles... how many miles did you say you had on your unit bearings?

09-13-06, 10:40 AM	#35
sixty IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Back in Vegas Posts: 497	No real updates... I rebuilt the 205 (didn't need it) & am in the process of putting the double together, but thats about it. When thats done I need to install the entire trans/ t-case copmbo so I can fab up a cross memeber.. Then I need to pull it & rebuild the trans & figure out shifters... I still have tons of stuff left. last night I was building a welding table that Jason M found out in the desert We cut in half & he got half & I got half. Radd, I didnt plate the face of the frame but used the angled plates to spread the torsion load and add more length of weld for more redundancy. I'm slightly worried about the torsion of the overall frame but I don't think it will be an issue

09-25-06, 11:03 AM	#38
sixty IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Back in Vegas Posts: 497	The booster rod is about 1" longer & uses a 5/8" pin. I modified the brake pedal to uses an offset 5/8" pin in double shear. Here is what I ended up with: Attached Images

09-25-06, 11:09 AM	#39
sixty IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Back in Vegas Posts: 497	Sorry for the crappy cellphone pics, for some reason the booster/master comparrison pic is cutoff on the bottom. There's a hell of alot of steel on that brake pedal, but I wanted to make sure it would not fail.

09-25-06, 11:13 AM	#41
sixty IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Back in Vegas Posts: 497	It probably wouldn't hurt.... I could also use the dimension of the distance from the pivot point to the booster rod & from the pivot point to the bottom of the pedal. Then the distance of the deal to the floor... or you could drop by my office on your way home & I could get that info Thanks

09-25-06, 11:56 AM	#42
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,446	I'll just stop on by __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

12-08-06, 10:45 AM	#43
sixty IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Back in Vegas Posts: 497	Well its been ahwhile since my last update. I have the whole doubler rebuilt & together, clocked & installed in the truck. Last night I finished the cross member. This is one HEAVY, long combo (probably 250lbs+). The crossmember is built using 1-1/4" schedule 40 pipe using fj60 spring bushings at the frame. It mounts to 3 points; the trans adapter, the doubler adapter & the side of the 205. hopefully its strong enough to hold the combo firmly without bending. I need to replace the rubber bushings in the motor mounts with Poly to hopefully sychronize the engine/ trans combo movement. Anyone know where to get Poly bushing to fit the crappy AA motor mounts? The 205 is tucked to within 1/4" of the body (after clearancing of about 1" couretesy of my BFH) & the 203 hangs below the frame by 4". I would have had to cut the body to get it any higher. The front driveshaft is going to be a HAD 1-ton CV @ 42" long & the rear is the same but only 29" due to the long pinion on the Sterling & the long drive train. one thing I found out, is that the Sterling is passenger offset by about 1.5" (roughly 3 degrees) so hopefully it will not give me a vibration. Now I need to pull everything out & clean things up. Then I need to fab tripple shifters since the trans is costing 2x what I had anticipated ($1150, so prefabbed cable shifters will be out of the question). I'll also be pulling the Sterling to clean it up & install the detroit. I almost have the steering together & I should be able to post pics tommorrow. its pretty funky (the same as lifted Superdutys) but should work ok. This is the area where balljoint 60's suck because ther is no real reliable way to get highsteer. Tera makes some knuckles that may work but they are $800+, for that price I'd buy another 60 & install the parts on my axle from the 'C's" out. Here's the pics: Attached Images

12-08-06, 10:48 AM	#44
sixty IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Back in Vegas Posts: 497	last pic: Attached Images

12-08-06, 08:58 PM	#45
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,446	Nice pipe __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

12-15-06, 12:08 PM	#47
sixty IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Back in Vegas Posts: 497	Here's a pic of my front Diff slider... Err a Tie rod . the drag link is pretty steep but is not as bad as it looks since it has the bend in it. all of the parts are VERY solid so I don't think I'll have a problem with bending but bump steer will hopefully be negligible. You can see the custom link (1"X16 LH & RH threads) that Mace's buddy built for me, Very beefy & nice. I still owe him bigtime! I was pretty worried about the geometry but there are Superdutys all over town with 6" lifts that have the same geometry & low tie rod so I think I'll be ok. Unfortunaly there is no good way to get highsteer on balljoints 60's so some day I may have to convert over to kingpin. Let me know what you guys think! I have the shifters together & figured out a way to have a mechanical linkage tripple shifter on the passenger side with driver side linkages. I build it all with too light of componenants so I'll be rebuilding much beefier this weekend. I should be able to post pics next week. Attached Images

12-15-06, 12:13 PM	#48
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,446	Nice shiny linky thing __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

12-16-06, 11:37 PM	#49
sixty IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Back in Vegas Posts: 497	Got the shifters together last night. Since I wanted to keep my shifters on the passenger side, this is what I came up with. Its built using the following: 5/8" rod for the shifter arms welded to machined 5/8" plate that bolts to the 3/4" rod that I used for pivots. The pivots are made using 3/4" schedule 40 (I love pipe ) bored to 7/8" with oil impregenated bronze bushings. The links are made with 3/8" rod ends and the mounting plate is made of 1/4" plate cut on the plasma to bolt to the 208 adapter. They work flawlessly and are super strong so I should not have any problems later. I may have to massage the trans hump to clear everything. Should have the rebuilt trans & everything bolted in by tomorrow or Monday, then its time to install the Detroit in the Sterling. in total it will cost around $150 in parts (I screwed up and had to redo it all to make it stronger) instead of the $450+ for a cable shifter setup. Attached Images

12-17-06, 09:09 AM	#50
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,446	Nice __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

12-17-06, 05:11 PM	#51
euclid IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: May 2002 Location: Jackson, MS TLCA# 13014 Posts: 2,781	wow. __________________ Greg Thompson CottonLand Cruisers 89 FJ62: OME 2.5, 2" BL, Superior shackles, F250 towers, 315 BFG KM2's on zj80 wheels, Extreme A440, FF,4:88,RDB,longs,ARB front,Lockright rear,Warn XD9K in Rover AL bumper, Wildernes Roofrack, Marlin Sliders, SROR 1/4 sliders. Land Speeder is sick

12-18-06, 01:49 PM	#54
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,446	BTW, thanks for letting me come over. Annie was so impressed with your plasma she got me one for Xmas __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

12-18-06, 04:53 PM	#56
Mace what he said Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 10,446	Single voltage parker. He gave me the scratch and dent price on a brand spankin new one... I am tired of moving welder/thingies all over the place. __________________ I am kinda gay....... My Myspace http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=75712409 "Mary Poppins: In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun and - SNAP - the job's a game."

12-23-06, 12:40 PM	#57
Hank IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: WI Posts: 597	I like the fabwork on the shifters. I might be missing something in the pic but are you supporting the handlever end of them at all? If not is that part of the reason for the beefier material on the redesign? I have to do a similar setup with my TH350/203/Ford205 to get my shifters where I want them. I hope to end up on the passenger side of the trans hump with room for an Art Carr style shifter. Nice work, keep it up. __________________ http://www.wohva.com Wisconsin Off Highway Vehicle Association http://www.lenzauto.com Need a truck? BDS suspension dealer 1990 FJ62 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 QC SLT SPORT 2001 Honda Odyssey EX