HDJ81 power windows slow in Winter (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 4, 2008
Threads
55
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Location
Mission BC
Is this a common issue with these TLCs? What is it that causes my windows to go slow in the winter months? When I connect 12v power directly at the switch from my motorcycle batter it moves quicker but still labours on the way up. I can understand cooler weather can contract things but at +5C? The gears are lubed nicely and the track appears smooth. So what am I missing?

I have blown my passenger window motor due to the extra draw it must have been pulling and I have to "help" the others down. In the summer their fine, slow but smooth. :confused:
 
Yes ,its a common issue on the 60 70 and 80 series

Have you cleaned the guides deep inside the door.They get gummed up and cause extra friction.
If you spray some water on the guides and they begin to move up and down easily ,you will know its the problem.

The low power issue is usually bad contacts at the controls on the drivers door and the offending door.
Usually the door furthest from the drivers door is the worst,in your case the rear LH door.

Its nearly always a combo of dirty guides and bad contacts
 
Yes you are correct as I had to remove the whole assembly to fix the motor, brushes broke contact with the armature. I noticed the original grease was now sticky. Also the rubber guides on the door weren't allowing the window to slid so I put a few dribbles of oil there too and voila it's now smooth. Slow but consistent :)
 
Yes you are correct as I had to remove the whole assembly to fix the motor, brushes broke contact with the armature. I noticed the original grease was now sticky. Also the rubber guides on the door weren't allowing the window to slid so I put a few dribbles of oil there too and voila it's now smooth. Slow but consistent :)

I changed out my rubbers and all is good now, years later.

If you get tired of adding oil, talk to Yan (akela) back east and he can ship you a pair to your door!
 
I've changed my rubbers and cleaned/inspected my contacts at the drivers door switches with only mild improvement. I first cleaned my rubbers before deciding to replace them. Cleaning them had the same results as replacing them.

I read on here long ago that someone had run new wiring to them with relays at each door suspecting it was a voltatage drop issue. Everything runs through the drivers door which makes for some long runs. He claimed good results.

I have no time for that sort of work and have decided to live with it....
 
Hi, Cleaning everything helps but after 20 plus years nothing beats buying new tracks and motors. Mike
 
I've done the factory replacement on couple of my cruisers only to have trouble in the cold before to long. Then I cut 6" off the bottom works pretty good ( make sure its low enough to hold the window when the window is at its lowest. I actually just went one step further recently carefully cutting the inside thickness of the runners while you invert them . Works way better again. I also use a lubricant that is surprisingly highly rated secret (Mazda silicone spray) you have to get it from Mazda ,good luck getting them to sell you a can. My truck spends a ton of time on the ocean front ,I live in a really wet area of north van and use my truck in the bush quite a bit and never wash my truck. Plus I have two dogs that ride daily in the back with the windows 3/4 down. I no I sound cheap but I rather put my dollars on more important maintainance . And yes I've done the sw. Rebuids a few times tracks are flawless . I right it of as one of the few flaws in the truck that I can live with.
 
Clean them out well and use dry lubricant. I use silicone as we'll and they only really work crappy in the winter. Always remember...oil attracts dirt.
 
When I attached my 12V MC battery directly to the harness on the switch I did notice the motor run stronger. My driver's back window won't go up or down without my helping hand under normal power, with this battery bypass it did go up and down, BUT it sure labored on that track. So yes adding a relay and better 12v source power would improve performance, but those tracks must be cleaned, lubed and working properly. That would be the easiest improvement to make than throwing more power at it.

It's quick to access the windows switch on the doors. Terminal 1 is top left and terminal 4 is bottom centre. Flip polarity to raise window backup.

Page BE-81 on FSM RM184e

(a) Disconnect the connector from the power window switch.

(b) Connect the positive (+) lead from the battery to terminal 1 and the negative ( —) lead to terminal 4 on the wire harness side connector, and raise the window
to full closed position.
 
This stuff works it really works I've tried everything!

image.jpg
 
I'd replaced the window runs, and tried dry graphite powder lubricant, and still had windows that were slow to open, and struggled to close when it gets cold. Pulled apart the master window switch and cleaned the contacts, and there was a huge improvement for me! Used contact cleaner and some Q-tips to clean things up, there was a black film on the contact surfaces.
 

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