Isuzu 4BD1-T swap into a '92 (2 Viewers)

[jtaylor]

So, after much research, thinking, research, buying parts, waiting on parts, and planning, I kinda ran out of excuses to not get started. I have had my eye on a diesel swap for over a year, and after much consideration, went with the Isuzu 4bd1-t.

My first and foremost goal is range and efficiency, to go farther with less fuel. Of course reliability, simplicity, and a much needed boost in power won't be bad company either.

So here it is

as it is, except the 4x4 labs bumper that now rides on the back

First days, stock motor is out

Diesel Adapters kit (Allmaras Machine). This kit is pretty slick, everthing lined up perfect. It adapts the Isuzu to Cummins, then adapts that to the toyota trans. So in theory I could bolt up a 5.9 Cummins if I wanted too (almost did, it was choice #2). It pushes the engine out a little bit more, which is nice because it makes the top bellhousing bolts easy to get to, unlike with the stock engine. They were a serious PITA!

Cutting off the stock mounts, notice brake lines in the way. I bent them carefully out of the way, but took my eye off the ball for just one second and managed to nick the rear line,

So its about to get married here, just a little bit more! One thing I was concerned about was exhaust clearance here. I have the engine and trans bolted together now, and it looks ok, kinda tight, but doable. I will probably be making a heat shield for the brake master cylinder. Here you can see part of the TD04HL-19t turbo. I made an adapter to fit the turbo to the stock manifold. Right now the center section is at industrial injection in SLC getting balanced. I also had to get some machining done to fit the 19t compressor wheel. This turbo was originally out of a volvo, but it turned into one from a saab, after I f-ed up the turbine housing.

 

[jtaylor]

Clearance Issues

So far I have run into a couple of clearance issues, the most prominent is on the power steering pump.

In this pic the engine is not completely bolted to the trans, it goes back a little farther, so the bottom of the pump where the fitting is sits right on top of the brace on the cruiser frame, with no room for a fitting. So I am going to move that brace a little farther forward and a little down, and have plenty of room

Only other problems where the vent canister on the back of the engine, and heater lines going in to the cab, all easy to fix/relocate

So as it sits, I am 2 days in and the engine is in the truck and bolted to the trans. Next step is to mock up some engine mounts, and move the cross brace. I am using the stock isuzu isolators.

Oh, and this adapter kit requires the use of a 93-94 bellhousing and torque converter, which I got from Jason at Cruiseryard for a good price, Thanks!

 

[akarilo]

That is a slick adapter setup!

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

So, clarify - if the stock motor mounts get cut out, is there welding required to install the new ones? or do they bolt to the frame somehow.

I also wonder if this is different for 93-on with a 1FZ-FE

 

[jtwopark]

I would like to see where this is going!

 

[4xFletch]

Brake line

I just knicked my brake line too this weekend while cutting out my mounts. Same thing being careful not to but the grinding wheel got hung up, throw a piece of the wheel into my finger and hit the line when the grinder kicked back. Blood and brake fluid dripping.

 

[jtaylor]

So, clarify - if the stock motor mounts get cut out, is there welding required to install the new ones? or do they bolt to the frame somehow.

I also wonder if this is different for 93-on with a 1FZ-FE

I will be fabricating my own mounts for the frame, welding is necessary. I could build the brackets and then bolt them to the frame, but will weld them unless there are some easy to get to factory bolt holes.

It will be completely different for a '93 up, more than likely

 

[jtaylor]

So this week I have spent a little time making some motor mounts. I am a little concerned about the clearance on the front diff(passenger side), but I am also sitting on 2.5" lift (ome heavy). I am using the stock Isuzu mounts and they have a tab that hangs down within 3-4" of top of diff. So I am going to raise the mounts a smidge. But I will more than likely have to do a little "clearancing" on the firewall to clear the starter bump on the adapter. There probably is enough clearance that it won't be a problem, but once the motor is bolted in it ain't comin out for a long time.

As for the clearance on the front diff, a 6" lift would surely do the trick, but hopefully I can just stay with the 4" that I had originally planned on.

I am planning on working on it through the weekend, and hopefully get to the point of getting starter wired and fuel plumbed. But realistically I will be happy with just getting half as far! I will be taking pics!

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Great job so far!! Getting this done so fast! I have had mine in the works for a year now and still have the stock engine in it

Ill be watching as you progress!

 

[KoalaCruiser]

Any changes to the fuel tank? Return lines?


Will a A440 bolt to the A442 bell housing?

Subd

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Any changes to the fuel tank? Return lines?


Will a A440 bolt to the A442 bell housing?

Subd

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

Only changes needed to the fuel tank is replacing the pump with a pipe and strainer on the bottom (no pump needed). The fuel lines up by the engine bay will need to be routed from Drivers side to pass side, no other mods required...well other than drilling out the led free gas filler.

There was a bit of doubt on my part if they would bolt together the A442 and A440 bell but they do with no issues. I had gotten a A442 bell from a 1HD-t Land Cruiser and I was not able to line up the holes form bell to bell in my haste as I was taking them to be CMMed for CNC cutting.

Sorry John for answering for you.

What are the plans with the PS pump inlet? Did you see what Dazed did on this for his Fj60? I bet that would work for yours/mine well and give us the needed room with out frame mods (I'm trying to avoid that).

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

I Couldn't help but notice that the exhaust runs on the driver's side on the 4bd1-t, like a 3f-e, which makes me wonder how big of a deal exhaust routing will be on 93-97 cruisers.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I Couldn't help but notice that the exhaust runs on the driver's side on the 4bd1-t, like a 3f-e, which makes me wonder how big of a deal exhaust routing will be on 93-97 cruisers.

Should not be a big deal at all I spent some time laying under mine looking at it. The body is the same from FJ80 to FZJ80 so the floor is contoured to allow the exhaust to run as it does on the FJ80. Just need hangers and heat shields. May need to bend a few brake lines if you want to go out into the wheel well like stock.

 

[half k cruiser]

This is a good write up so far. Btw op what front bumper is that ?

 

[doug720]

The tabs on the Isuzu motor mounts were a problem on my swap. I found out after hitting a big bump and hearing a clunk. The tab had hit the front brake line near the T block on the top of the differential. I was lucky and it just partially crushed the line.

I cut the tab off on the diff side and no other issues.

I like this adapter set up as it helps push the motor forward which is good in a LandCrusher.

Looks good.

Doug

 

[JHill]

Great work, and fast! Mine is taking a long time now.

 

[jtaylor]

Glad you noticed! I made it. Got some pics and progress comin right up!

This is a good write up so far. Btw op what front bumper is that ?

 

[jtaylor]

Clearance clarence

So I had been mulling the passenger side clearance debacle, and I decided to make a new mount that bolts to the engine so I could relocate the isolator more up and closer to the frame. I made this beef monster today, and tomorrow I will see how it fits.

I still have to drill holes and do a little finish work, but tomorrow is another day.

I also started the relocation of the crossmember(while the mount was cooling, 1/4" takes some heat!).

I was able to get 3-4" forward of stock location. I reused the stock bar and I will build some bracing and gussets tomorrow.

I also received my turbo cartridge yesterday. I sent it to Industrial Injection in SLC to have it balanced. They found some other problems(caused by my rebuild) and fixed them up, kudos to them for getting it right!

So it is coming along, got two solid days coming to get some stuff done! My goal is to have the engine mounting completely done this weekend, and maybe move on to getting some plumbing started!

 

[jtaylor]

Only changes needed to the fuel tank is replacing the pump with a pipe and strainer on the bottom (no pump needed). The fuel lines up by the engine bay will need to be routed from Drivers side to pass side, no other mods required...well other than drilling out the led free gas filler.

There was a bit of doubt on my part if they would bolt together the A442 and A440 bell but they do with no issues. I had gotten a A442 bell from a 1HD-t Land Cruiser and I was not able to line up the holes form bell to bell in my haste as I was taking them to be CMMed for CNC cutting.

Sorry John for answering for you.

What are the plans with the PS pump inlet? Did you see what Dazed did on this for his Fj60? I bet that would work for yours/mine well and give us the needed room with out frame mods (I'm trying to avoid that).

Hey Jeremy, no worries, I will have a AN fitting tigged on to the stock fitting, just gonna cut it off and retrofit, as I am doing with all of my oil lines. I will just have to build some guides for the hoses and what not. I am also considering modifying the stock heater core tubes to run them like you had mocked up on your engine, just a thought now, I will get there soon enough.

Oh, and it is awesome how much more room there is in the engine bay! Plenty of room to work with! I am planning on relocating my second battery and compressor under the hood, now that there seems to be plenty of room.

 

[jtaylor]

Metelo Aiee!

Made some good progress today. Gave the plasma cutter and the welder a decent work out, and ended up with my engine mounted in its final resting place!

In these first 3 photos you can see the isolator mounts and the position of the crossmember after relocation. It is amazing how much room I have between the axle and motor mount/isolator now. It was definitely the trick. Also, moving the crossmember gave me mucho real estate to work with for plumbing the power steering pump and whatever else needs to go in that area, maybe trans lines and what not.

Final position, it was pretty gratifying when I got the locating pins lined up with the bellhousing, and it all slid together nicely, and the motor mounts were perfectly lined up too!

Here is a shot of the clearance on the p/s pump. Plenty now, the crossmember probably ended up 5" farther forward.

Just cuz