Clutch problem? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

cbmontgo

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 28, 2004
Threads
415
Messages
5,316
Location
Colorado
The other day when I cold started my 1980, I couldn't get the rig into gear. Today, after sitting at a railroad crossing for about 5 minutes with the engine running, I couldn't get the truck into gear. I had to shut the engine off, put it in gear, and restart the engine.

The issue is intermittent. Now, it is shifting fine.

Clutch fluid level is good. Any ideas?
 
Look behind the clutch pedal at the firewall and see if you have leaking fluid. Climb under and have someone work the pedal and see what you see. It may need to be adjusted, but if it's intermittent I'd guess you need new or rebuild clutch cylinders.

When it fails, try pumping it up, like you would with brakes.
 
I have the exact same issue. Installed a brand new clutch master cylinder (adjusted), and slave (adjusted), and it still does it intermittently. Any ideas?
 
I have the exact same issue. Installed a brand new clutch master cylinder (adjusted), and slave (adjusted), and it still does it intermittently. Any ideas?

Brand new from where? I'll bet not Toyota. Did you replace the soft line at the same time?
 
Brand new from where? I'll bet not Toyota. Did you replace the soft line at the same time?

I bought AISIN oem parts and also the braided stainless steel soft line for the slave.
 
To everyone having the issue - were they bled properly? Intermittent issues sounds to me like an air bubble in the line.

I recently went replaced the slave/master in my '75. I bled it, it was working great, parked it, then drove it the following weekend, and half way to my destination I started needing to bottom out the clutch pedal to get enough fork movement to shift.

When I made it there, I bled it again, and got a whole bunch of air bubbles out the bleeder. It has worked fine ever since.
 
To everyone having the issue - were they bled properly? Intermittent issues sounds to me like an air bubble in the line.

I recently went replaced the slave/master in my '75. I bled it, it was working great, parked it, then drove it the following weekend, and half way to my destination I started needing to bottom out the clutch pedal to get enough fork movement to shift.

When I made it there, I bled it again, and got a whole bunch of air bubbles out the bleeder. It has worked fine ever since.

I've bled mine at least three times to no avail.
 
Started the FJ40 today and it lunges just a bit when I turn the key with the clutch in. Pumping it does not help at all. It is stuck in reverse now and will start to back up if I *barely* release the clutch. It is almost as if it needs to be "recalibrated" or loosened up a bit.

Is this a sign of a worn out clutch cylinder? I also see where it has leaked over the years behind the pedal and on the the firewall, although it is not leaking a drop these days. I am guessing that the internal seals are shot like a brake master cylinder can do?
 
yes, possible - happened on my little :cool: car after sitting for a few months - I guess it was complaining that I spent too much time working on the 40 :doh:
 
Started the FJ40 today and it lunges just a bit when I turn the key with the clutch in....


The lunging would be consistent with the pressure plate not fully releasing the clutch disc. You might just need to adjust the clutch slave cylinder rod. Then again...
  • the clips that hold the throwout bearing retainer to the fork may have failed
  • the fork/pivot ball may be jacked up
  • slave may be going out
  • master may be going out
  • pressure plate fingers may have failed
  • clutch system is working fine and issue is in transmission (least desireable)
Have you removed the inspection cover and looked at things? Shoot me a pm if you'd like a second set of eyes on finding the issue.
 
Went out and started the truck today, and the clutch basically does not work at all now. There is plenty of fluid in the reservior in the cylinder at the firewall.

Where is a good place to start in troubleshooting this? I know nothing about clutches.

Thanks Ricardo, by the way.
 
does it work any better if you pump the clutch first? where do you have your clutch pedal set?
 
does it work any better if you pump the clutch first? where do you have your clutch pedal set?

Pumping the clutch makes no difference; tried that too. The clutch pedal setting has not changed at all. It shifted perfectly and was tight up until a couple of weeks ago.
 
Have you crawled under the rig for an inspection while someone presses the clutch? Pull off the flywheel/clutch inspection cover and see if everything is operating as expected.

Good luck.
 
This may be over simplifying, but, are you sure you have your slave installed with the bleeder nipple on top? If you have your slave installed upside down, you won't get the air out.
 
Check the return spring on the clutch fork?
 
look at the rod on the slave to see if it's out too far and wedged
 
So here is what I am dealing with. The slave cylinder is clearly leaking in this pic. Also, it looks like some sort of rubber "boot" is coming loose from the bellhousing when the clutch is depressed. So would a new slave cylinder be a good place to start?
clutch cylinder.jpg
 
have some one press the clutch in ( not running ) while you look at your slave, see if it is even moving the clutch fork.

did the slave rod push the clutch fork?

I would start there.

:)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom