1988 4Runner: cranks but won't start... (6 Viewers)

[mekaneckpain]

Hi,

Sorry if this has been covered already but I couldn't find anything related to my issue:

I have a 1988 4Runner automatic with a 22RE. I've owned it about a year now and since I bought it, I've always noticed a slight hesitation upon start up. As soon as it started, it would sound like it wanted to stall out immediately then it would clear up and idle fine.

Today I took it for a 30 minute ride and came home. about an hour later, I went to start it up and it did what it usually does only this time it stalled. I went to start it again and it felt like it turned over but stalled right away... as if it got a little gas then suddenly starved out. On the 3rd time it just cranked with no indication of receiving any fuel. Any thoughts???

Just curious, does my 4runner have an electric fuel pump?

Thanks guys for your help in advance.

"D"

 

[mekaneckpain]

alright, Let me put it like this. What would be the first few things to check if the stater is cranking, but the engine is not starting?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Fuel or spark. Sounds like fuel. There is a cold-start injector that might not be working properly. Your fuel pump is electric and in the tank. You access it via a hatch underneath the rear seats. There is a fuel filter mounted on the engine; it could be clogged.

 

[bcstoy]

Read your engine codes first, the plug to read them should be on the fender wall on the driver side. Bridge the terminals turn the engine on and if there are EFI issues it will start blinking codes. If there are no codes stored, it will keep showing 1 blink. If that were the case then check if there is spark as suggested. If no spark then suspect ignition issues (faulty igniter). If there is spark you may want to spray staring fluid into the spark plug holes (at least 2) if it tries to run then check for clogged fuel filter, weak fuel pump or dirt in the tank.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Check spark.. pull a plug crank look for spark., air..., fuel- are plugs wet? MIke

 

[mekaneckpain]

hey guys, thanks for your replies...

Just for the hell of it, I went out there this morning to see if it would start. Sure enough it did... and it started right up with no usuall "wanting to stall out" symptoms. probably because yesterday I was trying to start it and primed it up pretty good.

I'm glad it started up but I question it's reliability and don't want to get stranded.

Why would it not start one day, then start the next day?

Was it flooded some how? Does this truck have a fuel shut off mechanism after shut down?

Thanks

 

[mekaneckpain]

Just found another thread with the similar problem. One guy said change the distributor? ehh... not sure if that's the culprit.

Another guy said that there are 2 sensor plugs, one brown and one green between the AC compressor and radiator hose. Replacing the green sensor would solve the problem.

Anyone concur with this theory?

 

[raevenzero]

I agree. Try replacing this sensor. I controls your cold start injector and can cause you to get too much fuel when warm or not enough fuel when cold if it is going bad.

Also, make sure that flap in your AFM is not sticking or it may keep your fuel pump from kicking in. Also, check for any leaks in the air intake tube. Any unmetered air can cause weird and intermittent issues depending on temperature and other variables.

 

[coryc85]

EDIT: Raevenzero beat me to it, he makes some good points. Check the AFM for sure.

The brown sensor should be your cold start time switch, the green one should be the temp sensor for the ECU (which is separate from the temp sensor for the dash gauge). You can easily remove and check your cold start switch, look here TOYTECH for some tips or use the FSM to check it.

The temp sensor can also be checked in a similar fashion as the cold start.

You could also check if you are getting fuel, the pump is supposed to turn on via a circuit opening relay which is somewhere near the glove compartment. I think it has a signal that comes from the AFM to tell it when air is being sucked into the engine to turn on the pump. To bypass the relay, I jumpered the B+ to FP connections in the little test connector under the hood. Jumpering that makes the fuel pump turn on when the key is ON. Now I hear the fuel pump running every time I turn the key ON.

 

[mekaneckpain]

Awesome! Thanks, I will address those and see what happens.

"D"

 

[flash02]

Ok let's see, the cold start injector ONLY gets used when the coolant temp is 40 deg or colder, this injector is triggered by the cold start timing switch. If your engine does not want to fire off soon after shutdown then that could be fuel pressure bleeding off the fuel rail. Also the Aux Air Valve (85-89??) which idles up the engine on initial start will cause a week idle until the engine is warm. If you ever have issues with the engine not starting at all suspect the igniter, that little bugger will cause all kinds of issues. The igniter provides the rpm signal to the ECU, if the ECU does not see an RPM signal it will not fire the injectors.

Good luck!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[fjfodee]

Doesn't really sound like the cold start time switch. I had that problem, but it would eventually start and run fine. Here is a link to an online FSM. It's for a 93 pickup, but should still be pretty much the same as yours. Do some research on the coolant temp sensor. It's right underneath the throttle body, there are two side by side, the one on the left is the time switch and on the right is the coolant temp switch.

1993 Toyota Pickup Service Manual

Here's a link to my no start thread. HTH.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/532294-32-below-wont-start.html

 

[flash02]

Another thing to check, when cranking the engine the fuel pump should run, if it does not then that could be your problem. Turn the key to the ON position, open the air box, with your finger try and move the air valve, when the gate is moved the fuel pump should run. EFI logic is when the key is moved to the start position the fuel pump will run, and stay running once the air valve is opened by the engine sucking in air and running. If your pump is operating correctly suspect the igniter, if it is not sending an RPM signal to the ECU then the injector will not be fired. My bet is that you have a fuel pump issue and perhaps an aug air valve issue.

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[raevenzero]

Speaking of that igniter signal. I have see the pickup in the dizzy be intermittent causing a similar issue.

 

[Beau]

I had pretty much the same problem on my engine. It turned out to be the spill control valve. On non elctrical pumps it bassically just goes up and down in order to start and shut the engine off. On a electric pump they pulse very quickly and measure the fuel out.

My spill control was sticking and would take long times to start but once started it would be fine. Then one day it just wouldn't start, then took it out, oiled it and worked a treat! If you want further details PM me.

 

[mekaneckpain]

Ok let's see, the cold start injector ONLY gets used when the coolant temp is 40 deg or colder, this injector is triggered by the cold start timing switch. If your engine does not want to fire off soon after shutdown then that could be fuel pressure bleeding off the fuel rail. Also the Aux Air Valve (85-89??) which idles up the engine on initial start will cause a week idle until the engine is warm. If you ever have issues with the engine not starting at all suspect the igniter, that little bugger will cause all kinds of issues. The igniter provides the rpm signal to the ECU, if the ECU does not see an RPM signal it will not fire the injectors.

Good luck!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

Hi,

When you speak of the igniter, Are you refering to the ignition control unit?

 

[toy4xfun]

the ECU controls your ignition on a 22re, the igniter is mounted on or near your coil.

not that this is your problem but you could have rust or dirt or debris in your gas tank, there is a fine screen before your pump that if you have dirt in your tank could clog this and inhibit your fuel from being pumped. not saying this is your problem, but if all else fells check it out.

ps.
i would also look into getting a FSM if you are going to work on this truck. the are priceless when you do the work yourself.

 

[mekaneckpain]

the ECU controls your ignition on a 22re, the igniter is mounted on or near your coil.

not that this is your problem but you could have rust or dirt or debris in your gas tank, there is a fine screen before your pump that if you have dirt in your tank could clog this and inhibit your fuel from being pumped. not saying this is your problem, but if all else fells check it out.

ps.
i would also look into getting a FSM if you are going to work on this truck. the are priceless when you do the work yourself.

It starts up and runs fine... It was just that one time after getting her warmed up that it wouldn't start an hour later. Then the next morning it started up perfect.

Yeah, FSM's are cool but when I buy them, I end up using them once or twice and then they sit in the bookcase. This 4Runner is in real nice shape and has been running great for the year that I've owned it, It's been a daily driver pretty much. I don't anticipate too many issues with it. I think my current issue is a small problem, it's just a matter of finding it. Thanks for the info.

 

[flash02]

It starts up and runs fine... It was just that one time after getting her warmed up that it wouldn't start an hour later. Then the next morning it started up

Yeah that is typical, sounds like your fuel pressure is dropping off, the reason it starts up fine when cold is probably due to the cold start injector injecting fuel into the intake plenum (only works when coolant temp is 40deg or colder) and the high idle condition of a cold engine. You need to check and see if the fuel pump is operating when ignition switch is placed to the start position, if it is not, suspect the start control relay, if the pump is operating then perhaps the fuel pressure regulator is faulty.

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[coryc85]

Yeah, FSM's are cool but when I buy them, I end up using them once or twice and then they sit in the bookcase. This 4Runner is in real nice shape and has been running great for the year that I've owned it, It's been a daily driver pretty much. I don't anticipate too many issues with it. I think my current issue is a small problem, it's just a matter of finding it. Thanks for the info.

Link to the 1988 FSM in pdf format:http://ncttora.com/fsm/87-4Runner/toyota_truck_and_4runner_88.pdf