New FJ60 Windshield, Professional Install (1 Viewer)

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Spike did yah go through your insurance ?
Now yah gotta start blacking out that rig....
Im calling them on Monday...

Thanks for all the info...
 
So the OE locking strip you used is the one that's UNDER the chrome molding pieces?

No, did not use any OE locking strip. Used an aftermarket black one as in an above post.

Paid out of pocket. Deduc is $500 :frown:
 
Ahh I see so if I insisted on using a Toyota Gasket, I'd have to use the PITA locking strip?
 
No, you could use the OE chrome molding which is much easier to install, since it's designed for it. The lock strip I used is for similar-year Chevys. It's in the thread on de-chroming.

If you want the all-black seal, you're better off going with the precision self-locking gasket. Precision make OE stuff for many domestic vehicles.

All-in-all, I really see very little useful difference between the chrome or de-chrome set up. I would either reuse the chrome OE lockstips, if salvageable, or go aftermarket seal. The OE lockstrips (molding) and corners are still available from Toyota.
 
...

Just a few more interesting pix (to me...) for posterior-osity :D.

1- Interesting that Toyota has a 'drain hole' in the bottom corners of the window frame...

2- OE chrome locking strip (molding).

3- OE Locking strip corners (molding).
IMG_2704.jpg
IMG_2739.jpg
IMG_2740.jpg
 
Hey Spike, out of curiosity, did you guys use silicone on the new locking strip to make it slippery or was the install done dry?

I ask since I've done a half dozen or so of them with that strip, and it's a pain, but as long as it's slick it slips into place.
The tightness is a plus in my book, it is after all the expander strip and in that case tighter is better. I've always found much worse rust under the aftermarket window gaskets that do not have the slot for the expander strips as compared to the OE style expanded ones.

KR
 
So the OE locking strip you used is the one that's UNDER the chrome molding pieces?

Think he used the OE gasket but an aftermarket locking strip (OE has the chrome molding).
 
Thanks for the insight Spike. Now that I've got my new welt, it's time to pull out the windshield ( again ), clean the surface and re-mount.
 
Hey Spike, out of curiosity, did you guys use silicone on the new locking strip to make it slippery or was the install done dry?


Used lots of silicone but the lock strip would 'pop out' of the channel, so he wiped it down and used less silicone and it would still pop out; he switched tools about 6 times, then he used some other kind of magic liquid out a coffee can, and that seemed to offer the right amount of lubricity for the strip to stay put, but he still had to go back and use a screwdriver the get the edges to stay .. I asked him what the liquid was and he said his own concoction. I left it at that.


I ask since I've done a half dozen or so of them with that strip, and it's a pain, but as long as it's slick it slips into place.
The tightness is a plus in my book, it is after all the expander strip and in that case tighter is better. I've always found much worse rust under the aftermarket window gaskets that do not have the slot for the expander strips as compared to the OE style expanded ones.

KR

He mentioned exactly that issue, but said it was because of improper installation, not because there's anything different with the aftermarket seal. If fact, if someone is going to try a home-installation, it's the only way to go. I held them side by side (sorry, no pic) and in fact the Precision gasket looked beefier. Had I not already bought the Toyota gasket, I would have gone aftermarket.

Dirk said the step most places leave out (and it's in the FSM procedure) and always left out by the installer-comes-to-you guys because of the time it takes, is the final Urethane sealant step between the glass and gasket lip, not just the application between the gasket and window frame. It did take a bit of time for that final step and subsequent clean up, but he said it was absolutely necessary for a leak-free install. He also showed me it had not been done on the window he just removed from my rig... Thus the rust, and fu#!*ng water on the driver's floor boards I used to get. :crybaby:

MUD member and FJ60 owner, and one-time in the auto-glass business "Tinker " mentions the same thing over and over in the various other windshield threads he's posted. In my first post, here, I link to another thread where Tinker affirms this.

Did I mention I love my new windshield? The world is open, again :p

Did anyone say I need new paint ??

:meh:
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Good info to know and nice of you to do a write up and give the guy some well deserved advertising. Looks like he earned it!

Cheers!
 
Very cool Spike. I plan on redoing my windshield at some point soon (mainly to correct a leak, catch any rust hopefully before it gets bad, and get to something under the headliner up front), and I'll be using an OEM locking gasket with the aftermarket locking strip. From guys on here who've used it, they've said it goes in MUCH easier if you cover it with silicon based lube before installation, which goes away after a couple washes and lets it stay in place good and tight. I'm going to give that a shot because I definitely don't want chrome, but I think with a locking strip I could get the windshield sealed pretty well. I've already got good 3M urethane sealant and now that you've posted the rust converter/encapsulator that Dirk used, I know what'd be a good choice there :D

Going to try it myself first and if I can't get it right I'm going to have a pro come out to the house to do it. Not 100% I'll get it, but hey, it's worth a shot right?
 
Yeah, the only thing I should have done was pop the window out at home, weld up any rust holes and maybe spray some kind of converter in the A pillars, then take it in for the new glass...

Other thing that might have helped is having the gasket hot from sitting in the sun. Might have made it a bit more pliable.

Good luck.
 
Yeah, the only thing I should have done was pop the window out at home, weld up any rust holes and maybe spray some kind of converter in the A pillars, then take it in for the new glass...

Good luck.

No clue what my rust situation will be. Was your rig always a Cali rig? If yes, I'm sure mine will definitely need some welding.
 
No clue what my rust situation will be. Was your rig always a Cali rig? If yes, I'm sure mine will definitely need some welding.

No... Truck spent 10 years in Brooklyn, NY, (did not know this until after purchase), but was rust-proofed pretty well so it wasn't too bad. Rust in the window frame was from a bad window install about 6-7 years ago PO did.

:censor:
 
S S-
I was just reading the FSM because of your thread here and noticed the sealant step that nobody seems to mention in the threads.

Any idea what kind of special appl tip he had on his caulk gun? Just curious.

My windshield has a very long horizontal crack in it now, it's also so "worn"/pitted that seeing through it in 5:00pm sun is brutal.

Thanks for a very good thread!!
 
No special tip that I could tell, just a regular tip cut for a fine bead. Squished out a lot of goo, but he wiped it off.

Yeah, the pitting really catches the light at sundown and makes it very hard to see. That's mainly why I changed mine. I could have lived with the crack, since it was low on the glass.
 
So...


How did it hold up with this rain?
 
Tighter than a duck's arse ...

:cool:
 
Spike, thanks for posting this up.
I saw the man today and he did his magic...
I went with the Chinese Glass with the tint on top as well and the after market seal.

Here mo pics of the work, parts and material info.

No rust in here..and he used the primer too...
IMAG1117.jpg

IMAG1118.jpg


Even with the roof rack so close to the top of the windshield the Glass went in no problem...

IMAG1119.jpg


After market seal
IMAG1120.jpg


This is the Urethane sealer the shop used..
IMAG1123.jpg

IMAG1124.jpg


New windshield..
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Hopefully it will go another 26 years before it needs replacing..
 
Glad you went. Dirk really does it right with his attention to detail.

And now that there's been a couple of days to let the thing bake in the sun and the bits of warm weather we had I'm less worried about the lock-strip popping out. It seems to have kind-of adhered in the channel, and now seems fine. Right after installation it seemed a bit slippery in there and could pop out with just a bump.

Love the tinted window! And I've been eye-balling the glass for any imperfections, but haven't found any. Best money I've spent on 'er in a long time.

I like the look of the self-locking gasket - smoother. Should gain ya a couple of ponies from the reduced wind-resistance ! :D

:cheers:
 

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