I'm sure many of you here have had problems with their OEM Toyota Key Shell breaking on them. It is due to an inherently bad design. In my case, the metal portion of the key broke out of the plastic shell. My Toyota dealer wants $350 for a completely new key. No way!
My solution was twofold. As many others have done over the years, I ordered a replacement key shell for $12 and transferred the keyless entry portion into the new shell. But, the inherent problem still lurks-a weak plastic shell! The constant twisting and turning to start the car eventually breaks the new key shell.
So my solution to this problem was to go to True Value hardware, and have them cut an all metal key for me. I use the metal key for starting the car. No programming is needed, because the keyless entry transponder contains the chip. The only thing necessary is that the transponder is NEAR the ignition while cranking the car. As long as the 2 keys are on the same key ring, the car will start fine! You can test this with your broken key if you'd like- Try the key without the transponder in it, and the engine will crank, but not turn over. Simply wave the transponder near the ignition, and it will start.
The key True Value used was TR-47, made by Hillman. It is listed as a "service key". The guy thought I was crazy, and thought it wouldn't work, but it does. You can get a plastic coated key, but I opted for all metal, so as not to confuse with the Key shell key. Now I'll never need another key shell again! I use the key shell as my remote keyless entry, and my metal key for the ignition. In fact, you could skip buying a new key shell, remove the key portion, and use the old key shell as a remote fob if you wanted to! So if you don't mind 2 keys on your key chain, this is a permanent fix. I grew up on old GM and Ford cars (1 key for door, 1 for ignition), so carrying 2 keys is nothing new to me.
Oh, and it cost me $1.71 per key (that includes having it cut).
Pics of the key
My solution was twofold. As many others have done over the years, I ordered a replacement key shell for $12 and transferred the keyless entry portion into the new shell. But, the inherent problem still lurks-a weak plastic shell! The constant twisting and turning to start the car eventually breaks the new key shell.
So my solution to this problem was to go to True Value hardware, and have them cut an all metal key for me. I use the metal key for starting the car. No programming is needed, because the keyless entry transponder contains the chip. The only thing necessary is that the transponder is NEAR the ignition while cranking the car. As long as the 2 keys are on the same key ring, the car will start fine! You can test this with your broken key if you'd like- Try the key without the transponder in it, and the engine will crank, but not turn over. Simply wave the transponder near the ignition, and it will start.
The key True Value used was TR-47, made by Hillman. It is listed as a "service key". The guy thought I was crazy, and thought it wouldn't work, but it does. You can get a plastic coated key, but I opted for all metal, so as not to confuse with the Key shell key. Now I'll never need another key shell again! I use the key shell as my remote keyless entry, and my metal key for the ignition. In fact, you could skip buying a new key shell, remove the key portion, and use the old key shell as a remote fob if you wanted to! So if you don't mind 2 keys on your key chain, this is a permanent fix. I grew up on old GM and Ford cars (1 key for door, 1 for ignition), so carrying 2 keys is nothing new to me.
Oh, and it cost me $1.71 per key (that includes having it cut).
Pics of the key
Last edited: