So it was requested a long time ago for me to do a write up on how I got a computer power supply to run an electrolysis set up. This write up will only go into detail on how to get the power supply to work and how to hook it up… not how to actually work the electrolysis or to explain HOW it works.
For my setup I tried to base it off of Coolerman’s website. He has a great write up on what to use and HOW to use it. My setup was only used for my jump seats and it works awesome – but I did run into some drawbacks. So here we go.
First off you need a standard 20-24pin ATX power supply. If you are looking to buy one you might be better off getting something that varies your voltage and current, which from what I understand you need to manipulate depending on the size of your tank, your part (CATHODE -), and your iron/steel/stainless steel (ANODE +). But if you are willing to still go the power supply route which is what I did because I had an old one laying around.. then you can get (and I recommend) the cheap $10-20 ones from newegg.
So now you’ve got your power supply out of the computer and there is a s*** ton of wires…. The first thing you’ll need to do is have your power supply turn on without a computer to tell it to do so. This is done by jumping two of the wires on the main 20 or 24 pin connector. From my experience it has usually been the purple (5V standby) to the green (power on). See ATX - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia for a chart describing each color for a 24 pin ATX. You’ll also notice that there are many other colors with varying voltages and currents. *****PLEASE DO SOME RESEARCH ON YOUR OWN POWER SUPPLY to make sure that you are connecting the right wires (honestly there should be a sticker on the side that tells you). I have also heard that some of the new power supplies won’t turn on without a load so do some research (the $10 -20 ones should be fine)
For this supply seen here Newegg.com - RAIDMAX RX-380K 380W ATX12V Power Supply - Power Supplies (and for many of the other power supplies) the colors represent the following voltage/amperage combinations
YELLOW: 12V /11A
RED: 5V/29A
ORANGE: 3.3V/26A
For my set up seen in the picture below I used the Yellow 12V wire. This wire is used as your ANODE ( + ) and the GROUND or BLACK WIRE goes to your CATHODE ( - ). Here’s where it gets confusing.. in the picture below I switched the usual colors. So I have RED for the CATHODE which connects to the steel and the BLACK wire and I have BLACK For the ANODE which connects the part and the Yellow wire.
You can also see in the picture I connected 4 of each of the yellow and 4 of each of the black from the power supply and twisted them together my thinking was it would act as a thicker gage wire or something.. really though probably not important.
My last thoughts on this.. make sure you have an INLINE fuse.. start small.. if it blows just put the next biggest size in because I blew my first computer power supply because I didn’t have an inline fuse.. after I put one in I was all set. Also the power supply is kind of cool because you can have one power source and multiple tanks/set-ups going at once – but that all depends on electrical stuff that I’m not too sure about.. check the wattage and current draw/voltage being used and you should be able to tell if you’re within the allowed limits of the power supply…
Ask away with the questions/pick apart the design and add your .02 please
EDIT: also I used sodium carbonate.. or soda ash found at pool stores
For my setup I tried to base it off of Coolerman’s website. He has a great write up on what to use and HOW to use it. My setup was only used for my jump seats and it works awesome – but I did run into some drawbacks. So here we go.
First off you need a standard 20-24pin ATX power supply. If you are looking to buy one you might be better off getting something that varies your voltage and current, which from what I understand you need to manipulate depending on the size of your tank, your part (CATHODE -), and your iron/steel/stainless steel (ANODE +). But if you are willing to still go the power supply route which is what I did because I had an old one laying around.. then you can get (and I recommend) the cheap $10-20 ones from newegg.
So now you’ve got your power supply out of the computer and there is a s*** ton of wires…. The first thing you’ll need to do is have your power supply turn on without a computer to tell it to do so. This is done by jumping two of the wires on the main 20 or 24 pin connector. From my experience it has usually been the purple (5V standby) to the green (power on). See ATX - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia for a chart describing each color for a 24 pin ATX. You’ll also notice that there are many other colors with varying voltages and currents. *****PLEASE DO SOME RESEARCH ON YOUR OWN POWER SUPPLY to make sure that you are connecting the right wires (honestly there should be a sticker on the side that tells you). I have also heard that some of the new power supplies won’t turn on without a load so do some research (the $10 -20 ones should be fine)
For this supply seen here Newegg.com - RAIDMAX RX-380K 380W ATX12V Power Supply - Power Supplies (and for many of the other power supplies) the colors represent the following voltage/amperage combinations
YELLOW: 12V /11A
RED: 5V/29A
ORANGE: 3.3V/26A
For my set up seen in the picture below I used the Yellow 12V wire. This wire is used as your ANODE ( + ) and the GROUND or BLACK WIRE goes to your CATHODE ( - ). Here’s where it gets confusing.. in the picture below I switched the usual colors. So I have RED for the CATHODE which connects to the steel and the BLACK wire and I have BLACK For the ANODE which connects the part and the Yellow wire.
You can also see in the picture I connected 4 of each of the yellow and 4 of each of the black from the power supply and twisted them together my thinking was it would act as a thicker gage wire or something.. really though probably not important.
My last thoughts on this.. make sure you have an INLINE fuse.. start small.. if it blows just put the next biggest size in because I blew my first computer power supply because I didn’t have an inline fuse.. after I put one in I was all set. Also the power supply is kind of cool because you can have one power source and multiple tanks/set-ups going at once – but that all depends on electrical stuff that I’m not too sure about.. check the wattage and current draw/voltage being used and you should be able to tell if you’re within the allowed limits of the power supply…
Ask away with the questions/pick apart the design and add your .02 please
EDIT: also I used sodium carbonate.. or soda ash found at pool stores