Coil leaking oil... Bad? New coil brand suggestions? (1 Viewer)

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So, I have been having trouble getting the 60 to start. I figured that the fuel filter needed to be changed again, so I changed it and still it was hard to start.

I pulled the plug wire off of the coil and oil leaked out everywhere. Does that mean the coil is shot? I imagine so, so if it means the coil is bad, which type do you all recommend I replace it with?

Currently I have a Mallory dizzy, and coil. ...Also...

Once I finally got the 60 running, which seemed to be quite hard, it seemed to run fine. Should it still run fine with oil leaking from the coil onto the plug wire?

Any suggestions/answers are greatly appreciated.

-Nick.
 
The oil is used as an insulator inside the coil, it also help dissipate the heat and if it's leaking it's time to get a new one.
 
Thanks, Any preferences that you recommend on the brand?

Thanks, Any preferences that you recommend on the brand of the new coil? Does it matter that much?
 
The fact that your original lasted more than 20 years is a hint that you should use an OEM coil. That would be my advice.
 
Mallory coil stock?

Did it come with a Mallory coil stock?
 
I run a Bocsh coil but the Nippondenso genuine ones are just as good, any good brand will see you right.
 
Thanks, Any preferences that you recommend on the brand of the new coil? Does it matter that much?

OEM, and if not that, an MSD Blaster 2.

I use a Mallory Promaster in mine, since I have the 6AL ignition, and that works pretty good too.
 
Cool, thanks for the suggestions y'all.
 
OEM, and if not that, an MSD Blaster 2.

I use a Mallory Promaster in mine, since I have the 6AL ignition, and that works pretty good too.

I was going to pick up an MSD Blaster 2 to replace the rusting/dying OEM coil in my 90 FJ62, do I need to use one that comes with a ballast resistor? I am thinking no as long as I retain the factory igniter.
 
ANy coil will work. The "high amp" ones don't do much for you..
 
ANy coil will work. The "high amp" ones don't do much for you..

I was specifically referring to the MSD Blaster 2 coils which come with "ballast resistors" to mate up to points/dizzy/OEM ignitions. Sounds like this isn't neccesary as long as the OEM igniter is still used?
 
On your last part........correct

Thanks! Swapped an MSD Blaster 2 into the stock igniter/coil pack today. It looked like the coil was the original -- the terminals and bottom of the can were pretty rusty. The job took all of 10 minutes. She seems to run smoother and have a bit more torque :D Next up...figure out why the tach doesn't work and replace the thermostat.
 
Thanks! Swapped an MSD Blaster 2 into the stock igniter/coil pack today. It looked like the coil was the original -- the terminals and bottom of the can were pretty rusty. The job took all of 10 minutes. She seems to run smoother and have a bit more torque :D Next up...figure out why the tach doesn't work and replace the thermostat.
Hmmmm either the white wire on the coil is the tach wire or green done forgot.
 
John, I think a vintage '62 coil will like the 1.3 ohm ballast resistor; however, if the coil is being driven by an electronic capacitive discharge ignition, the ballast is not required.

If the original points are activating the coil (thru the negative terminal), then the ballast is there to prevent over current thru the coil primary. Most new coils are rated at 12 volt operation and don't require the ballast series resistor. This resistor helps prevent the points from burning up to soon.

...
 
The fact that your original lasted more than 20 years is a hint that you should use an OEM coil. That would be my advice.

Mallory was not the orginal coil unless I am sadly mistaken!!;p
 

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