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Were trying to determine if the 1993 FJ80 can be towed safely behind a motor home. Anyone have any thoughts or experience on this?
Were trying to determine if the 1993 FJ80 can be towed safely behind a motor home. Anyone have any thoughts or experience on this?
if that t-case slips for any reason it will be an ugly day for an AWD vehicle. If I were to do it I would yank both driveshafts to be safe.
I thought I somewhere on this board that the t-case has an oil pump that is driven by the input shaft. While flat towing, there is no oil being pumped. I'd look into getting those quick disconnects for the shafts.
I thought I somewhere on this board that the t-case has an oil pump that is driven by the input shaft. While flat towing, there is no oil being pumped. I'd look into getting those quick disconnects for the shafts.
The safety factor is going to be how much the motor home can safely tow.
-Spike
According to service publication RM360U, the FZJ80 can be flat towed at speeds up to 45KPH for distances up to 80Km.
HTH.
I talked to a Toyota tech and confirmed this statement as to why...
I thought I somewhere on this board that the t-case has an oil pump that is driven by the input shaft. While flat towing, there is no oil being pumped. I'd look into getting those quick disconnects for the shafts.
I've read all the posts regarding flat towing back to last January and still have questions...
The tow vehicle in question is a diesel pusher motorhome with a 10,000 tow capacity. In July I pulled a 4Runner to North Dakota (4700 miles) and back without any trouble...I did overfill xfer case with 75-140 synthetic and ran it in neutral with the tranny in Park. I checked at every stop and the xfer case was warm but not hot.
I'm trading for a '96 Landcruiser with awd and factory locking diffs. All this talk about a viscous coupling is making me nervious...
If I understand the previous posts, putting the xfer case in neutral disconnects the output from the transmission but the front and rear inputs are still spinning and therefore creating heat which will eventually burn up the xfer case? Is xfer case heat the primary problem or am I missing something else?
If heat is the only concern, how are xfer case fluids cooled under normal driving conditions and how could I replicate i.e. a pump or even just letting the engine idle?
BTW, givens are a 65mph cruise speed with stops every 200 miles or so.
The tow vehicle doesn't even know the cruiser is back there.
Thanks in advance for any assistance to an obviously uneducated newbie.
Au contraire, as previously reported....I started out with short trips behind the dually, stopping frequently to check everything and found no problems. I've since made several trips including one to North Dakota and back without incident.
To set it up, I bought an ARB front bumper and installed Blue Ox universal brackets that I strengthened and used large backing plates. The front and rear diffs got 75-90 synthetic while the center diff got 90-140 synthetic. Even during the Florida summer, the center diff does not get too warm to keep my hand on the output bearings after a couple hundred miles.
Wiring the factory lights to work from the motorhome/dually requires diodes and time....have the diodes but not the time so I've been using those magnetic jobs. BTW, the motorhome weighs 38,000 lbs and does not know the 80 is back there until I apply the brakes so I will be investing in an aux braking system before the next trip.
I've since had two Toyota master mechanics tell me there is no problem doing flat towing my 96. Other models may be different, YMMV
My first post here was to inquire about flat towing my '96 80 behind my motorhome and received numerous opinions....from you'll toast your TC or VC to no problemo. This week I finally found some time to weld up a bracket on the brush bar for the test I described a few months ago.
This morning I hooked to 80 to my dually with the basic towing rig and some beefy chains in case I overestimated the strenght of my welds. After a couple of trips around the block to make sure everything was copacetic, we hit the highway at 60mph for five miles....tranny and every part of the TC were still ice cold. (Ambient air temp: 74 degrees)
We increased the speed to 70 and ran another 20 miles....still no detectable heat from the running gear. After the 25 miles home at 70 mph, there was no heat generated in the running gear whatsoever and no visible overflow from any of the pieces holding fluid. The vehicle tracked perfectly, started instantly and shifted smoothly after the tow.
I have donned an asbestos suit for challenging absolute restriction against doing this in the FSM. If you were wondering if it was possible, it is.
My makeshift bracket is going to be replaced with a ARB bumper and a custom built bracket welded/bolted to it.