Hotstart Problem

[grrlscout89FJ62]

My thread's getting no play up in the 60 series forum, so I thought I'd give it a shot here:

My 62 has started this thing where it won't start if it's hot. It didn't it off and on before, but it was more random. Now, it's due to a specific set of circumstances.

Since temps have been in the one-teens daily here, the 62 gets pretty warm frequently. Usually, when I get home from work, the temp needle is around the 3rd hash mark.

If I'm running the AC full blast or there's bad traffic the needle gets past the third hash mark. On a long, steep climb, it just about touches the red.

Then, once I cut it off, it won't start again. There's no cranking, just dash lights, and the voltage needle jumps to 12-ish. Sometimes on the second or third turn, it'll stop at 8v.

Usually, I just let it sit for about half an hour, then it'll start -- often, a little reluctantly.

I know I need to pay some attention to the rad. I've been toting around a new t-stat, upper housing, and all sortsa hoses for months now. But keeping it cool seems to me like it might just be addressing part of the problem.

Also, I don't know if it means anything, but lately, after I'm done driving, and I go around the passenger side, there's the strong smell of fuel.

Thanks in advance for any ideas you might have on the subject!

[roscoFJ73]

Give your battery terminals and cable connections a good clean ,ie polished metal at both ends.
Where the ground bolts to the engine is a likely spot,sometimes the cable will need replacing if the wires have gone green.

Starters dont like low voltage or heat so if its not bad connections it could be the solenoid on the starter dying or it needs new brushes.


The heating problem sounds like a blocked radiator. I had my top and bottom tanks removed and 20% of the cores were blocked.
Had them cleaned out by poking a rod through until you can see light at the other end.
It was ok for a while and then it got a hole in it from corrosion.
So I ended up with a new radiator.
At the time my old 3F was pretty worn out and this tends to make them run hotter.

[John McVicker]

Starter problem: Two thoughts, 1st do as rosco suggested & clean tighten all bat & ground terminals. Don't forget to check the heavy cable that goes to the starter itself. Make it clean & tight. If that doesn't solve the issue I would consider rebuilding the starter. Quite straightforward. Dealer parts, contacts & plunger. Even a new wrencher can do this, start to finish in a couple of hours with the FSM.

Heating issues: Is it time to flush the rad & block ? If so get one of those Prestone reverse flush kits & see if this helps. Good PM either way.

I was reading another thread on heating issues, he had replaced all the usual suspects, someone suggested a flush with muratic acid. Sounds sketchy, but it's really quite safe. Sloved his problem.

HTH John

[YODA 88 62]

This is one fix to your problems http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/6464-3fe-fuel-supply-problem-i-fixed.html. Fixed my starting problems. i also drove mine for nearly two years with the starting problem.

It also sounds like your cooling system is hurting.

[grrlscout89FJ62]

Hmm... maybe. Except I don't have the poor mileage that Sean was describing.

I had a fellow clubber look at it last weekend, and we couldn't really duplicate the problem. Well, when I arrived the engine was hot. I was unable to start it when I turned the key once.

My friend got in and tried it while holding the shifter in park (the shifter is a bit sloppy), and it started. But I don't know if it had cooled off just enough, or maybe the NSS is starting to go.

He also tightened the two screws that lead to the fusible links, but otherwise, the battery and cables were in good shape.

I'm heading to my club's wrenching day on Sunday with a new radiator to put in. I'll also be getting some new lube in the fan clutch, and replacing the thermostat.

I'll keep yall updated as to what we find out.

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Well, this is a bit of a "long shot," but when was the last time you did a full tune-up (plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor) on this rig?

I had a starting problem on my daily driver a few years ago. It would not start up in the morning, when temperature was lower and the humidity higher, but would start-up just fine later in the day when the temperature was higher, but the humidity was lower.

Thought it was the fuel pump going but the pressure level of the fuel system was within specs. A professional mechanic suggested I do a full tune-up (it had been about 35,000 miles since the last tune-up) to see if it would solve the problem. He was "spot-on!"

Good luck with your rig!

Alan

[grrlscout89FJ62]

Originally Posted by Josie'sLandCruiser

Well, this is a bit of a "long shot," but when was the last time you did a full tune-up (plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor) on this rig?

Plugs were done during this past winter, the rest, just this past May.

[landtank]

I would change out both - and + high amp cables. You can't tell by looking at them if they are any good. The negative one can probably be sourced locally for next to nothing and is usually the worse of the two. Make sure the connection at the block for that one is clean and tight.

[grrlscout89FJ62]

Originally Posted by landtank

I would change out both - and + high amp cables. You can't tell by looking at them if they are any good.

- was done when the battery was replaced, about a month ago, when the battery was replaced. New pads on both too.

[grrlscout89FJ62]

I posted an update up in Tech:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...98#post2348498

[Eric Winkworth]

when it happens again give the starter a smack... if that fixes it starter.... if not wiggle bottery terminals and the one that goes directly to the starter...

the rad actually isn't the isssue... but maybe something to look into after

[madoc1]

had the same problem recently with engine not even getting too hot. now this is a sbc, but a starter is a starter. took it off and had napa test it-AOK! bought a new one anyway and voila! no more prpblem. only showed up when hot.

chevy starters are cheap, don't know about yours. can you borrow one one? jim

[landtank]

sounds like the starter, I'd skip trying to fix it and replace it.

[grrlscout89FJ62]

Neutral Safety/Start Switch. That is all.

[landtank]

really, the comment on the amp draw is what threw me. I can't see that switch drawing the battery down to 8v.

[birefred]

Heat increases resistince. That mean less voltage gets to the starter. The fix is better connections(new starter, new wiring) or decreasing the load(install gear reduction permanant magnet starter). People who run chevy v-8 with headers have always had hot start problems. They would install a "hot start kit" that uses a Ford fender mounted solenoid to route full battery power straight to starter. I switched to a permanent magnet gear reduction starter and fixed my hot start problem.

[srplus]

Originally Posted by grrlscout89FJ62

Neutral Safety/Start Switch. That is all.

I got to thinking that this could be it because in my 80 I had a similar problem and could not figure out what the hell to do... I called my friend at the Paint and Body Shop and he recommended taking it in and out of gears a few times and trying again while the engine was hot... for what ever reason it did not seem to show up when it was cold.

Did that fix the problem for you?

[grrlscout89FJ62]

Originally Posted by srplus

I got to thinking that this could be it because in my 80 I had a similar problem and could not figure out what the hell to do... I called my friend at the Paint and Body Shop and he recommended taking it in and out of gears a few times and trying again while the engine was hot... for what ever reason it did not seem to show up when it was cold.

Did that fix the problem for you?

So far so good!

*knock on wood*

[grrlscout89FJ62]

Originally Posted by landtank

really, the comment on the amp draw is what threw me. I can't see that switch drawing the battery down to 8v.

This may be a separate issue... possibly the voltage regulator. Now I'm starting to see the voltage drop down to 12 whenever I'm idling.