My piggy project - Page 2

crushers · 05-25-07, 09:21 AM

IF you are going to swap engines and trannies anyway and if this really is going to be a long distance traveller then may i suggest a 1HZ with a H55F. the money you spend on the engine and tranny will pay for itself in fuel savings (in a few years) but the comfort of driving is priceless...now this being said you live in colorado so i would also suggest you turbo that engine. same fuel milage, excellent torque for off road, great fuel milage compared to either the F or 2F and it is quiet engine.

just a suggestion.

crushers · 05-25-07, 09:23 AM

you also have to remember that the 4 speed 4th is 1-1 and the 3 speed 3rd is 1-1 so highway traveling is no different although the 4 speed is an easier shift and nicer gear selection...

k9crazy · 05-25-07, 07:18 PM

Y'all have been a great help. I think I am going to keep the engine until it's dead, providing I can get a different carb on there so it's not such a PITA. The PO put in an electric fuel pump and a Weber carb and it seems to flood the engine with gas. So it definately needs some carb work. I have an aisin that I am going to have rebuilt.

As for the 4spd swap, I am headed to look at some piggy parts on Monday and am going to see if I can find the transmission and Xfer case (along with some badly needed floorboards and other parts).

I think the diesel is a bit rich for my blood right now. I just finished building my FJ Cruiser to where I want it, so the funds are a bit drained at the moment. However, eventually, I'd love to go diesel and do the bio diesel thing.

When I find a donor piggy, I'll post up what I find.

In the meantime, I'll read up on how to do this. I found this in the tech links http://www.toepper.net/Landcruiser%2...conversion.htm ...is there a better write up with more step by step directions somewhere?

Hugh Heifer · 05-26-07, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crushers

you also have to remember that the 4 speed 4th is 1-1 and the 3 speed 3rd is 1-1 so highway traveling is no different although the 4 speed is an easier shift and nicer gear selection...

That is where the H55 helps. IMHO

crushers · 05-26-07, 03:46 AM

ywp i agree, the H55F is one of the nicest shifting, quiet, practical conversions one can make to the older FJs...

UpsideDown · 05-26-07, 11:21 AM

Just to clear up a few of the misconceptions here: the SM420 had about a 20 year production run - which is not too far behind the SM465 (and before the period of the ubiquitous automatic tranny).

The SM420 is commonly used in Land Cruisers due to its easy adaptability; with a 3 speed bellhousing, a 3 speed transfer case and a few bits and pieces (3/4" plate adapter, clutch disc, pilot bearing adapter etc...) it's a direct bolt up to an F or 2F.

Land Cruisers are more plentiful in diesel in most of the rest of the world. The modifications required to install and Toyota diesel is not what you might think, it's not any harder than a SBC!

hth, j.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nuclearlemon

h55 would definitely be nice, but pricey...about four times what you'd pay for a four speed, and harder to find since it's non us.

sm420 has a nice first gear, but doesn't shift near as nice as a cruiser tranny. parts are nla and it had a very short production time. sm465 was produced for a couple of decades and isn't much higher geared than the 420, also parts are available and they can be found everywhere for around $100

diesels usually require soa because of the height of the motor (unless you go with a 6at or something, but good luck finding parts).

UpsideDown · 05-26-07, 11:27 AM

The H55 has an excellent set of ratios for most driving: first gear is not overly low at 4.84 and 5th is not too tall even when using large tires.

If my old 3B with nearly 500,000 km on it can push 5th gear / 33" tires most of the time on an Interstate, then it's not geared badly.

My loaded for camping HJ61 can pull all but the steepest hills on the Coquihalla in 5th - and I can cruise at 110 - 120km/h and still get 10.34L/100 km.

Quote:

Originally Posted by yotawheeler

also...i have heard that the H55 is over rated, i have not run this tranny but from what i know you cant hit 5th gear very often unless its dead flat or down hill...

crushers · 05-26-07, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yotawheeler

a couple comments...somone mentioned going to a diesel instead of a gasser...well then your gunna be looking at ALOT more money... the other option would be toyota diesels but they are also realy expensive to swap and would require much more work then a V8
also...i have heard that the H55 is over rated, i have not run this tranny but from what i know you cant hit 5th gear very often unless its dead flat or down hill...

hummm, why would you bother to comment on a tranny you have not driven...hearsay is just that hearsay, leave it at that.
the H55F is an excellent tranny and i have swapped a number of them into the gasser F/2F drivetrains. a VERY easy swap indeed. 2F H55F 35" boots and i could hit over 100 mph, climb highway hills at 80 mph and get (relativey) decent gas milage at the double nickle. i have never blown 5th out of a H55F behind a gasser, NA diesel or a turbo diesel in many years of driving them...not yet anyway. am not gentle on my trucks either.

a V8 is NOT easier to swap into a Land Cruiser than a diesel and a PROPERLY done V8 swap will cost the same in the end. (anyone can butcher a V8 swap for cheap)

not wise to post about units you know very little about.

cheers

k9crazy · 05-28-07, 01:52 PM

OK, so I will look into an H55F. I'll do some searching and some reading here.

In the mean time, I have a carb and linkage coming to me next Sat. I also found a donor piggy for the rear floorboard. I spent the better part of today cutting it out. Not done yet, but next Sat and it will be mine! I've never done any metal work, so it's going slow...but it's going. Some friends came over and helped, so a big thanks to them!!! Also a bit of the front passenger floorboard will be replaced by the time I'm done.

So the next question I have is about the electric fuel pump. The stock pump is gone, so electric is all I have. But with the stock carb, should I go back to the stock fuel pump? The one I have mounts just below the gas tank on the frame and is pretty chincy.

roscoFJ73 · 05-28-07, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k9crazy

. But with the stock carb, should I go back to the stock fuel pump?

Yes ,less dramas with OEM set ups.

k9crazy · 05-28-07, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crushers

the H55F is an excellent tranny and i have swapped a number of them into the gasser F/2F drivetrains. a VERY easy swap indeed. 2F H55F 35" boots and i could hit over 100 mph, climb highway hills at 80 mph and get (relativey) decent gas milage at the double nickle. i have never blown 5th out of a H55F behind a gasser, NA diesel or a turbo diesel in many years of driving them...not yet anyway. am not gentle on my trucks either

OK, so I have been reading about the H55F and it's appealing to me...but kinda spendy for me right now. That doesn't mean it's out of the question though. Can you break it down for me on what I would need to do to change to get it into the truck? Could I bolt it up to the truck with a stock transfer case? I assume I'll need to replace the transfer case too? Yes? No?

What would be a good choice for the Tcase in that case? And a second choice?

I am still not sure that I am ready to make this kind of invesment right now, but it is fun to dream!

crushers · 05-28-07, 09:16 PM

it costs nothing to dream and can be a lot of fun...
you will need the 4 speed bell housing, H55F, 2 piece t/case (get a set of auto gears out of an auto HJ60 if possible(lower low range), lengthen the front driveshaft and shorten the rear one, modify the floor hump for the shifter hole OR get the top loader plate or the BJ42 model H55F, you will also need to get a e/barke (either MAF one that bolts so the t/case (not advised) or a replacement rear axle out of a 82 or new BJFJ42)
there, done.

sounds much worse than it is...

nuclearlemon · 05-28-07, 10:13 PM

i just dream about driving my rigs let alone putting cool stuff in them

k9crazy · 05-29-07, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crushers

it costs nothing to dream and can be a lot of fun...
you will need the 4 speed bell housing, H55F, 2 piece t/case (get a set of auto gears out of an auto HJ60 if possible(lower low range), lengthen the front driveshaft and shorten the rear one, modify the floor hump for the shifter hole OR get the top loader plate or the BJ42 model H55F, you will also need to get a e/barke (either MAF one that bolts so the t/case (not advised) or a replacement rear axle out of a 82 or new BJFJ42)
there, done.

sounds much worse than it is...

Perfect. Thanks so much. I think this is something that could be in my future, but not something I can afford right now. But, now I have something to save up for. I figure I'll swap in the 4 speed tranny and leave the existing T-case for step one...then see how that goes. I have to start simple since I have never even looked at these things before.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nuclearlemon

i just dream about driving my rigs let alone putting cool stuff in them

I hear ya. I think my boyfriend is dreaming of the day I get that pig out of the garage!

crushers · 05-29-07, 08:44 AM

hummm, women that dream about cruisers...where were you when i was young and single??

nuclearlemon · 05-29-07, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crushers

hummm, women that dream about cruisers...where were you when i was young and single??

shoot wayne, i don't think our momma's were even born way back then

trucruiser · 05-29-07, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark W

You will need a T/C input gear from a '74 four speed mated T/C. This gear had the splining to fit the four speed output shaft and the tooth configuration to math the "three speed T/C". It is still available new. You also need a special bearing to match both the size of the shaft and the size of the case. Part numbers available in the tech write up section here on mud.

You will also need the bolts that hold the T/C onto the tranny from the fourspeed. They are longer than the ones on the three speed. You also need the high/low shift arm from a fourspeed T/C. Or jusrt swap the whole top plate from the four speed unit.

The 2WD-4WD shift rod is longer on the fourspeed T/C. Swap the whole shift mech to be simple.

Nice mod. The difference between the low range gear reduction is the equivalent of 4.88s instead of 4.11s.

mark...

One other thing you will need is a spacer to take the place of the old PTO gear, because your old PTO gear is a different spline.

crushers · 05-29-07, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nuclearlemon

shoot wayne, i don't think our momma's were even born way back then

that's okay, i hear your momma was pretty hot...

k9crazy · 05-30-07, 03:08 PM

Did some more work last night...now it's getting to be a naked pig. I can't get the blasted tailgate off because the screws are stuck. Any tricks to unsticking bolts/screws besides PB Blaster and maybe some heat? SOme of them are stripped too...besides drilling them, any suggestions on how to get those out?

Hugh Heifer · 05-30-07, 03:23 PM

I got a set of those Craftsman "easyouts" that go in a drill. Spin the drill in reverse and it grabs the stripped philips and gets it out. Or are the just spinning in the threads? If that is the case, i tried to slide a this metal putty knife under the head and pry up while loosening. And when you are not working on the pig, spray 'em down with liquid wrench and let 'em sit overnight.

nuclearlemon · 05-30-07, 03:33 PM

hand impact. do they have heads that stick up? if so, grab them with vice grips, but i think they're recessed.

k9crazy · 05-30-07, 05:45 PM

They are recessed. Looks like I am in for a tool purchase!

2ndGenToyotaFan · 05-30-07, 10:47 PM

I think this is what Ige was talking about:

You hit the end with a hammer and it snaps the screw loose. Or that's the theory...

Mark W · 05-31-07, 01:00 AM

Use some muriatic acid the way you'd use penetrating oil. Be careful what else you get it on.Let it sit and brew for a while. Refresh as needed. Follow with a good penetrating oil. Ed's Red is my favorite.

A hand impact like Ige mentions is a must have. You can also use an air impact for this application. Lean into it hard so that it doesn't bounce out.

Mark...

k9crazy · 05-31-07, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2ndGenToyotaFan

I think this is what Ige was talking about:

You hit the end with a hammer and it snaps the screw loose. Or that's the theory...

Yep, that's what I thought. Headed for Sears at lunch for this and some easy-outs. I am having a hell of a time with screws and bolts stripping on this thing. Everything is so rusted on. I guess I expected it and really, it's not going too too bad. I am going to have to find some replacement hardware, which I am sure will be interesting.

k9crazy · 05-31-07, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark W

Use some muriatic acid the way you'd use penetrating oil. Be careful what else you get it on.Let it sit and brew for a while. Refresh as needed. Follow with a good penetrating oil. Ed's Red is my favorite.

A hand impact like Ige mentions is a must have. You can also use an air impact for this application. Lean into it hard so that it doesn't bounce out.

Mark...

Yeah, nothing like a little HCl to start the day off with a burn! I used to sell and service swimming pools in a past life and that's what we used to clean the concrete or gunnite in the pools. Nasty stuff. I think I have some from acid washing my basement, so I'll give it a try. Thanks for the hint!

I can't get the air impact into the area and get enough leverage to really lean in, otherwise I would have tried that already. This is at the bottom of the tailgate door and I have to get the hinge off because the tortion bar is attached to the body too. So hinge off, tailgate off, tortion bar cover off, and I am sure I am going to find a disentegrating pile of metal.

Otterav · 05-31-07, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k9crazy

Y'all have been a great help. I think I am going to keep the engine until it's dead, providing I can get a different carb on there so it's not such a PITA. The PO put in an electric fuel pump and a Weber carb and it seems to flood the engine with gas. So it definately needs some carb work. I have an aisin that I am going to have rebuilt.

As for the 4spd swap, I am headed to look at some piggy parts on Monday and am going to see if I can find the transmission and Xfer case (along with some badly needed floorboards and other parts).

I think the diesel is a bit rich for my blood right now. I just finished building my FJ Cruiser to where I want it, so the funds are a bit drained at the moment. However, eventually, I'd love to go diesel and do the bio diesel thing.

When I find a donor piggy, I'll post up what I find.

In the meantime, I'll read up on how to do this. I found this in the tech links http://www.toepper.net/Landcruiser%2...conversion.htm ...is there a better write up with more step by step directions somewhere?

Heather,
The Weber is quite simple to tune, it is very finickey about fuel pressure. Go to e-Bay and find a fuel pressure regulator(2-9psi range aprox). My truck ran so rich it would barely idle, fuel pressure was overpowering the float needle and flooding the carb, black smoke at idle. I just bought a fuel pressure regulator for my '74 BMW w/Weber, as well,by just adding the regulator my mileage increased by 15%, due to more efficient metering the fuel as designed. Both vehicles now run better and more efficiently. There are alot of Weber tuning manuals, the carb is easy and reliable to tune. There are lots of naysayers here on the boards that badmouth the Weber, I believe that is due to unwillingness to tune and they want an out of the box bolt on carb. Webers have been used on sports cars for many years and these cars encounter extremes in cornering and accelleration, tuning is required on a "generic" carb.
eric

rusty_tlc · 05-31-07, 12:53 PM

One trick I use with rusty hardware is to not let it bind.
If you can get the screw/bolt /nut started just work it back and forth about 1/4 turn at a time, loosening it a bit further each time. It takes a bit more time but the time is well spent especially if you are working on one of the captive nut fastener Toyota used on these rigs.
You might also invest in a set of thread chases, they are like taps/dies but used to clean rather than cut.

Mace · 05-31-07, 04:28 PM

Easy outs are the devil..

Use the acid/penetrating oil..

crushers · 05-31-07, 04:40 PM

what i have foudn to work GREAT on broken off bolts is reverse drill bits, once the drill bit takes a bite it screws the broken part out the otherside... no trying to get the rusted exposed part back through the threads..
this does not work on bolts that are screwed into a solid piece of steel of course but for body panels it is the cat's ass...