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10-17-09, 11:17 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 729
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Muritic Acid ??
I have had seen any post about using muritic acid on parts on MUD or Pirate. So, I though I would break up the subject. I learned this from Mark Whatley some time ago.
I regularly use Muritic Acid (Swimming pool acide) to clean and remove rust from a lot of small parts and pieices. It is really cheap and does a great job
Below, I tossed a few of the screws and parts from the tailgate into a plastic paint container. When the acid starts fizzing, it is eating the rust. Doesn't take much to clean the parts. But, warning, you must clean and paint the parts right after removing them. They will flash rust real fast if left out in the open. I wash the parts in clean water, dry them, then paint.
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Bill Jackson, AKA "Cardinal Fang"
1973 FJ40 - 1975 FJ55 - TLCA#6607
Folsom, CA
"The iron hand
is no match
for the Iron Rod" ??
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10-17-09, 08:04 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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tks thats nice.
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77fj40
75fj55
 JUST FOR THIS POST...YOU CAN JUST NEVER HAVE ENOUGH VISE GRIPS 
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10-18-09, 05:32 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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wow. no need to sand/prep them anymore b4 u paint?
just goolged Muritic Acid. do you know what strength the stuff you have is?? because that stuff can be pretty corrosive?? eat the metal away completly if left in there for any period of time. how long did you leave it in?? few minutes??
from wikipedia: thought id add this as it answered some of my question as to the strength to use 
"Pickling of steel
One of the most important applications of hydrochloric acid is in the pickling of steel, to remove rust or iron oxide scale from iron or steel before subsequent processing, such as extrusion, rolling, galvanizing, and other techniques.[3][5] Technical quality HCl at typically 18% concentration is the most commonly used pickling agent for the pickling of carbon steel grades.
Fe2O3 + Fe + 6 HCl → 3 FeCl2 + 3 H2O "
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Last edited by OinkOinker; 10-18-09 at 05:42 AM.
Reason: answering my own question
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10-18-09, 10:58 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Folsom, CA
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It is pool acid, so it is not a high concentrate? HCL is a different animal. Very strong acid.
I leave the parts in the acid until it stops fizzing. On small stuff, about 10min. But I have left some parts in for hours without any ectching.
__________________
Bill Jackson, AKA "Cardinal Fang"
1973 FJ40 - 1975 FJ55 - TLCA#6607
Folsom, CA
"The iron hand
is no match
for the Iron Rod" ??
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10-19-09, 02:05 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,023
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will phosphoric acid work as well? or does it have to be muriatic?
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10-19-09, 02:59 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Knight-errant
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sacratomato
Posts: 2,464
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Dunno phosphoric acid, but that muriatic acid is useful stuff. Good for insides of radiators and heater cores...not so good on aluminum water pumps or thermostat housings though. Cleans driveways too.
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11-18-09, 04:30 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: HI
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Guppie- I've used phosphoric acid (bought at the hardware store) to try and neutralize rust on the sheet metal of my pig. My impression is that I either did not leave it on long enough or the acid wasn't a strong enough concentration. The rust is back where it was after 1.5 years. It's even showing through the zero rust. :(
EDIT: Oh ya Cardinal...what did you paint your nuts and bolts with? Galvanizing primer?
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11-19-09, 07:58 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardinal fang
It is pool acid, so it is not a high concentrate? HCL is a different animal. Very strong acid.
I leave the parts in the acid until it stops fizzing. On small stuff, about 10min. But I have left some parts in for hours without any ectching.
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Muriatic Acid is HCl. Pool HCl, commonly referred to as Muriatic Acid is pretty low strength.
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1)Wanda: I hate people. Do you hate people ? Henry: I don't. I just like it better when they're not around.
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11-19-09, 08:00 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1973Guppie
will phosphoric acid work as well? or does it have to be muriatic?
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yes it will...
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1)Wanda: I hate people. Do you hate people ? Henry: I don't. I just like it better when they're not around.
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11-19-09, 08:09 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OinkOinker
wow. no need to sand/prep them anymore b4 u paint?
just goolged Muritic Acid. do you know what strength the stuff you have is?? because that stuff can be pretty corrosive?? eat the metal away completly if left in there for any period of time. how long did you leave it in?? few minutes??
from wikipedia: thought id add this as it answered some of my question as to the strength to use
"Pickling of steel
One of the most important applications of hydrochloric acid is in the pickling of steel, to remove rust or iron oxide scale from iron or steel before subsequent processing, such as extrusion, rolling, galvanizing, and other techniques.[3][5] Technical quality HCl at typically 18% concentration is the most commonly used pickling agent for the pickling of carbon steel grades.
Fe2O3 + Fe + 6 HCl → 3 FeCl2 + 3 H2O " |
Good stuff Oink, the formula at the end is the spent pickling liquour or at this stage Ferric Chloride. I use Ferric Chloride by the tanker full... a common water treatment chemical and a strong Lewis acid.
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1)Wanda: I hate people. Do you hate people ? Henry: I don't. I just like it better when they're not around.
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11-19-09, 09:12 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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THC
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Mauldin, SC
Posts: 11,063
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I use 1/2 muratic acid 1/2 water. Pour water in then the acid.
I leave my stuff in for around an hr or so. I also just pull some parts out and check every 10 min or so.
Works well on greasy stuff too.
This was my thread on it.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/workshop-hom...art-bolts.html
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