[EyeDuhHo]

Hello Pigs. I recently purchased my 1st (FJ55, 1973) and the orignal engine and tranny are shot. So...I am planning to swap them out for a 350 chev and turbo 400. Can any of you long time pigs direct me to a thread that can give me some pointers on the swap?

Thanks in advance,

EyeDuhHo

[Lil'John]

I'm not sure there are many build threads for FJ55s detailing engine swaps of the "old" V8 variety.

If you look at my build thread(linked in my signature), I detail a 6.0L Vortec swap. Details will be similar for your V8 swap... but there are differences such as the motor mounts and engine height.

Worth noting is the FJ55 engine bay is a bit shorter than an FJ40(if you are familiar with those). As such, you really have to be on top of the vertical placement of the engine.

Easiest way to get specific info is just to ask.

[Gumby]

Too bad you're so far from IL. I have a complete 327/TH400/cruiser case that I'm looking to replace with a 5.3L/4L60E

[EyeDuhHo]

Gumby: That sucks. I would have liked a 327.... O' well, I will figure it out.

[eperry0303]

Originally Posted by EyeDuhHo

Gumby: That sucks. I would have liked a 327.... O' well, I will figure it out.

So EyeDuhHo...Are you in I-da-ho? I'm planning a V8 swap in my 55, but just gathering parts and information at this point though. I am in Boise, Idaho....

[EyeDuhHo]

eperry: I am also in Boise. I'm afraid that I can't find any definitive information regarding a 350 swap. There is a lot of vague info out there.... have you found anything on the net?

[Lil'John]

You need to ask specific questions to get answers. Most project writeups aren't going to give every little detail, part, and bolt they bought Mine is probably close but it is a bit scattered

In general though:

1. Pull old engine/drivetrain out
2. Cut old motor mounts/trans mounts out
3. Mock new engine and drivetrain in
4. Weld motor mounts in
5. Weld trans cross member in
6. Wire engine
7. Plumb engine
8. Driveshafts

There is no hard fast rules for engine swaps unless you are a shop pumping out the same swap everytime. There are too many variables to say "measure 2 3/16" to the left and weld this piece there".

I've seen swaps that did the same drivetrain/radiator/etc and one will overheat while the other doesn't.

[EyeDuhHo]

Thanks Lil' John. I suppose I should be more direct in my request for information. Since I have done swaps before I am somewhat aware of the process. Really, what I am looking for is workable "combination" recipes from Pig owners that have gone through the process. Example: 350 with a TH350 and NP203. The specifics of how, I believe I can figure out as I go.

Thanks again,

Eye Duh Ho!

[Gumby]

With a pig that you are gonna wheel I have to say the NP203 doubler is a great option. It's too long for a 40, but in my 55 it makes the drive shafts the same length.

The 203 mates up to a TH400, TH350 or in rare cases you can find them with a manual. I would never wheel a manual again, but lots of people like it.

About 500 gets you the trans to transfer adapter. The 203 to 19 spline split case is the best option, but the hardest to get. Advance adapter makes them for the 10 spline and 16 spline cases.

You get an easy adapter, 2:1 and 4:1 options, and a good length drive train.

[Lil'John]

Now you are strictly asking about opinions and that opens a whole new can of worms

I'd say it depends upon the intended use of the FJ55.

I like my drivetrain in theory: 6.0L Vortec, NV4500, NP203, 4 speed tcase + 4.88 gears and 35s. 350+ horses, granny gear, doubler, AND an overdrive With luck, I'll be heading toward an orion in the future. We'll see how the drivetrain drives shortly. Both driveshafts are in the 33" range

I liked the drivetrain in my FJ40 except wanting about 5% lower gearing: Chevy 5.0L TBI, SM465, and 4 speed tcase with 4.11 gears and 35s. Ran the Rubicon well and was reasonable on the freeway.

I'm a manual transmission fan due to numerous auto tranny failures in the past. Not enough money to get me to run an auto. Until my knees fail, I'll be sticking it

FWIW, the Turbo 400 version of the NP203 is only slightly less rare than the SM465 version I've heard it was a 2 year wonder while the SM465 version was a 1 year wonder.

*edit added from here down*
IMO, you should take a drivetrain you have wheeled with and tweak it to fit YOUR wheeling stats. Otherwise, you are building and financing someone else's dream rig

When I chose my FJ55 drivetrain, I based it upon:

1. FJ40 wheeling experiences with the 5.0L TBI and SM465. As mentioned, it needed to be lower geared. 4.88 gears may have solved that issue BUT I was daily driving it and driving to the trail.
2. Tacoma wheeling experience. The OD and 4.11 w/31s was perfect on the road. But it needed to go about twice as slow offroad. (My 55 was originally going to run 31s )
3. What I had in my parts pile. I had what I thought was a rebuildable NV4500 and the NP203.
4. My product experience. I've done numerous things with the NP203 as well as the AA 16 spline Cruiser adapter. So I was comfortable in dealing with them.
5. Intended usage. I was planning to use my FJ55 as a tow rig, daily driver, and mid-level wheeler(31") So I picked the 6.0L Vortec. Unfortunately, that engine choice forced me into spring over and DANA 60s.

[eperry0303]

Originally Posted by EyeDuhHo

eperry: I am also in Boise. I'm afraid that I can't find any definitive information regarding a 350 swap. There is a lot of vague info out there.... have you found anything on the net?

Therer's not much out there with much detail that's very specifc to 55s. There is a member on this board that used a Marks adapter (Australian product) for his conversion, he goes by Mtrdud, you can search his posts to see what he did. The Marks adapter is expensive...~$1100, but it allows you to keep the toyoya tnans and transfer case in the stiock position, while still giving you firewall clearance with the V8. So not a bad way to go if you are set on keeping your Toy 4spd tranny.

As others have mentioned, there's alot of options, just really depends on what you want to do with it, and what you can afford these days. After some deliberation, I've decided to go the used 5.3 vortec route and use the GM auto trans with it. For what I want, a durable family truckster to load up and take fishing, camping, hunting, rafting, etc., I like the mileage I can get from this fuel-injected setup, and while I may not be set up for any heavy wheeling, it will be plenty capable to get me where I need to go.

I've checked at Barger Mattsen here in town, and you can pick up an "A" grade 2000 and later 5.3 vortec (mileage under 60k, or less thah 10k per year), with the transmission, harness, ecm, all engine accessories for ~2500. My plan is to find one of those I like, freshen it up as necessary, and get started. AA and Downey both make adapters to mate the GM 4l60e to the toyota transfer case, and then there's other details to work out of course...Front driveshaft clearing the transmission oil pan (There's a modified output shaft and flange for this, see BTB products), rear crossmember for the transfer case (AA makes one specifically for the 55, works like the standard 40 rear crossmembers, bolts on to the transfer case).

In a perfect world, I would put a 5speed NV4500 manual in...But they are considerable more expensive than the 4l60e, so I decided to just keep the auto most of the vortecs come with.

My $.02...Good luck! I hope to see you on the road here in Boise.

[Lil'John]

eperry, $2500 for complete 5.3 and tranny is VERY high priced. I could have got 6.0l for about $2200 with 30k miles on it... in CA(my 6.0l without tranny was around $1500ish) The place was offering 5.3l's for around $1500 complete with tranny and 30kish miles

Definately shop around and remember that shipping an engine is "only" $300-$400

On BTB parts, I'd recommend looking somewhere else. The output you speak of is probably an Advanced Adapters unit that has been marked up

[eperry0303]

Originally Posted by Lil'John

eperry, $2500 for complete 5.3 and tranny is VERY high priced. I could have got 6.0l for about $2200 with 30k miles on it... in CA(my 6.0l without tranny was around $1500ish) The place was offering 5.3l's for around $1500 complete with tranny and 30kish miles

Definately shop around and remember that shipping an engine is "only" $300-$400

On BTB parts, I'd recommend looking somewhere else. The output you speak of is probably an Advanced Adapters unit that has been marked up

Thanks for the tips Lil John. I will do some shopping/haggling when it comes time to buy...I also scour craigslist regularly, and have seen some better deals there too.

And agreed on BTB...Downey has the same outpout flange/shaft for ~ $100 less. Thanks again.

[EyeDuhHo]

Thank ya'll for the great advice! I finally decided on a "doner" rig. It's 91 chevy 3/4 ton with the 5.7 TBI and 700R4. I like the idea of having the lower 1st gear and the OD as I will use the FJ as a daily driver. I'm not a hard core 4-wheeler but I do like to fish and hunt. So, when it comes time to get past the tough spots I don't want to be stranded. My nephew and I start dismantling the truck this Wednesday. I'll keep you up to date....

[eperry0303]

Good luck! I'm probably 6-12 months away from getting serious on my project, but I'll look forward to seeing another piggy around Boise!

[EyeDuhHo]

I'm curious if anyone can suggest a good floor shifter for the 700R4.

[3jvj]

Originally Posted by EyeDuhHo

Thank ya'll for the great advice! I finally decided on a "doner" rig. It's 91 chevy 3/4 ton with the 5.7 TBI and 700R4. I like the idea of having the lower 1st gear and the OD as I will use the FJ as a daily driver. I'm not a hard core 4-wheeler but I do like to fish and hunt. So, when it comes time to get past the tough spots I don't want to be stranded. My nephew and I start dismantling the truck this Wednesday. I'll keep you up to date....

Let me know if you need specs. That's the same combo I'm running.

B&M ratchet.

[EyeDuhHo]

Originally Posted by 3jvj

Let me know if you need specs. That's the same combo I'm running.

B&M ratchet.

Specs would be GREAT! Thanks vjv. I was actually looking at some B&M shifters in the Summit catalogue.

[eperry0303]

Originally Posted by EyeDuhHo

I'm curious if anyone can suggest a good floor shifter for the 700R4.

Check out the Lokar shifters...

Lokar: Shifters and Shifter Knobs

[EyeDuhHo]

OK....the engine should be completely out of the pig tomorrow. Thanks Perry. I couldn't see any automatic shifters.

[Luke111]

Originally Posted by EyeDuhHo

OK....the engine should be completely out of the pig tomorrow. Thanks Perry. I couldn't see any automatic shifters.

Take a closer look, the first six shifters are automatic, they just look like manual shifters.

Lou

[EyeDuhHo]

Ah! Yes....now that I have opened my eyes, I can see them!!!
Thanks.

Update: The drive train is out of the pig. I'm selling the engine, transmission and transfer case if anyone knows of a buyer.

[EyeDuhHo]

OK...i'm ready to put the engine in...well almost ready. Does anyone know for sure if the steering box will need to be moved in order to make room for the 350?

[73fj55]

I am not sure what steering box you are going to put in or if you are going to keep it stock? , but, I have a 60 series box mounted on the outside of the frame.

[Lil'John]

Speaking from experience, it is easier to have the steering box in hand and ready to mount around the time of the engine install.

Keep in mind that you have a semi narrow range on where you should be mounting the box. If you are doing a scout style in the engine bay mount, you are kind of limited to the front foot or so of the engine bay area with the radiator being the deciding factor. You need to mount the box forward enough so that your drag link is ahead of the tie rod link.

On my conversion, we had the box fully mounted before the engine was installed. We still ran into issues with box to power steering pump interference a little bit. This was caused by two things: engine shifted driverside a lot and hydro assist ports on the box. I ended up swapping the ps pump for one with a different reservoir to make up the difference. Also, in my case, the guy who did my fab work(Don at FC Fab) has extensive FJ55 modification experience so he knew almost exactly where to mount it... He walked over to his project FJ55 and measured a starting point

You can see a picture somewhere in my build thread The location of mine was set up for a stock axle but works for a Dana 60 with high steer arms also

The problems you could encounter:

1. Steering shaft interference with exhaust. Depending upon your exhaust manifold/header choice, you may have issues with steering shaft.
2. Steering box interference with engine. Depending upon location of the steering box, you may run into issues with headers(if you use a scout style box and have it back far on the frame) or with the engine accessories (this is what I ran into)
3. Steering box interference with factory shock mount. Most people who convert either grind the hell out of it or swap to aftermarket shock mounts like ford mounts or hoop mounts. I used ford mounts

Keep in mind that when mounting the steering box, you can tilt the angle on the box to make a pitman arm work.

To answer you PM'd question, there were no modifications needed to be done to the Scout PS box on mine. It started as a stock rebuilt box from Kragens. The pitman arm is a stock unit off a Grand Cherokee. I swapped to the hydro assist box because I had an old project I abandoned so I sold the stock box and used the hydro box

As for using the stock FJ55 box, I believe it is still useable but you may be limited on how far you can shift the engine to the driverside