Newb with Pictures and Questions

CarmMontana · 02-21-09, 10:21 PM

Hey Everyone.

I finally got some good close-up pics of my Rig.
The first picture is a picture of some stress cracks that I have around the drivers side door.
- Question... Can I just weld this up and be good? I weld pretty well but I have these all over my drivers side door and a couple on the passenger door.
The second pic is of the dash controls
- Question.... So I have no idea what some of these controls do. I have been able to trace the heater fan control as well as the obvious wiper control but when I traced the left pull switch and the most right switch they lead to nothing on the firewall. Any idea what these are suppose to control? Thanks guys

Carmon

Pighead · 02-22-09, 12:12 AM

The far left pull knob traditionally goes to the choke...

Vitesse_6 · 02-22-09, 07:51 AM

Choke - Wiper/Washer - Central Vent - Throttle control
space - FD indicator - FD=Front drive - PO mod?!?Throttle cable? - Cig lighter.

Its all I got

EDIT
I have a scan coming

Vitesse_6 · 02-22-09, 08:00 AM

Here you go!

Eric Ellis · 02-22-09, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vitesse_6

- PO mod?!?Throttle cable? -

vacuum transfer shift...actuater.

like that scan..."heater option"

3_puppies · 02-22-09, 11:11 AM

do you have floor shift for the t-case? some PO's will leave the old t-case set up still in the dash.

CarmMontana · 02-22-09, 01:10 PM

Thanks alot guys... you are extremely helpful. I have the transfer pull on the dash, not the vacuum or the floor shifter. I think that you answered my questions tho and I really appreciate it!

Vitesse_6 · 02-22-09, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarmMontana

Thanks alot guys... you are extremely helpful. I have the transfer pull on the dash, not the vacuum or the floor shifter. I think that you answered my questions tho and I really appreciate it!

Your T-case pull = Vacuum shift

Lever is the hi/low range

CarmMontana · 02-22-09, 05:34 PM

So the dash pull is a vacuum? Hmm that is odd... any idea how that works? Seems like that could be an issue on trail if I loose vacuum, What do you guys think?

Lil'John · 02-23-09, 09:35 AM

Vacuum portion is just a switch. When you pull it, it goes to 4wd and stays there no matter the vacuum. It doesn't behave like the ARB lockers where you loose air and it unlocks.

But, to answer your layout question for the lower part:

blank - not sure... mine has it also but didn't have anything in it either
red light - 4wd indicator
F.D. knob - 4wd pull (this goes to vacuum switch on firewall in engine bay
H-N-L handle - this is the high low handle for the transfer case
cig lighter - uh... cig lighter

CarmMontana · 02-23-09, 08:22 PM

Hey Guys What is this? Has anyone seen one of these installed in their pigs. If so where can I get the components to get a spotlight back on here? Thanks

Carmon

3_puppies · 02-23-09, 09:13 PM

that was put on by a previous owner, one of the many things you'll probably find on your rig.

3jvj · 02-24-09, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3_puppies

that was put on by a previous owner, one of the many things you'll probably find on your rig.

This wtf moment has been brought to you by..... duct tape.

CarmMontana · 02-24-09, 03:02 PM

ok guys one more question. All the rubber around the wondshield and side windows is nasty. I know the windshield is about 50 bucks and that is not big deal but the side windows are 250... that is nuts. Any way to save this rubber? I mean can I condition it and be alright? Just wondering if anyone on here has nay wisdom on this before I spend big $ for something I may not need to. Thanks

Eric Ellis · 02-24-09, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarmMontana

ok guys one more question. All the rubber around the wondshield and side windows is nasty. I know the windshield is about 50 bucks and that is not big deal but the side windows are 250... that is nuts. Any way to save this rubber? I mean can I condition it and be alright? Just wondering if anyone on here has nay wisdom on this before I spend big $ for something I may not need to. Thanks

My 2 cents: People get hung up on the cost of rubber unreasonably. Go price some new rubber or slightly older OEM rubber. It is expensive. The costs of limited run rubber is very high if it is complex especially.

you can live with as much or as little as you want...even get rid of the glass.

BUT if you want to run it right or "restore" it, then you have no choice. Rubber is not going to get cheaper for these rigs in gen.. Some of it like the Cargo rubber (made by the now defunct PVCruisers) will likely be gone and done soon enough.

If you want a new headliner it is best to have new windshield and cargo rubber. That being said, some people here have worked around taking the window out (i.e. not doing it) and some have used spliced windshield rubber on the cargo (ergo 100.00 not 230.00)

Edit: the only relatively inexpensive rubber made recently is the stuff n2666s made for us to use on the TG and Door window regulators. It was a relatively simple extrusion.

So, it is just an individual call. Me I bought the rubber...not all yet and I am still hedging on the 1/4 window.

Lil'John · 02-24-09, 09:29 PM

Eric hit it on the head... you think the cargo window is bad, go check out the price on the fixed window of the rear door or the wing window of the front door.

Eric is right... go price out cargo windows for an FJ60 or FJ80. They will be in the $200-300+ range just like the 55 repro.

Like Eric, I have opted to buy 90% of my rubber in an effort to ensure my rig is sealed.

That was $300 for all the door felts and channel rubber from JC Whitney.

That was $250 for the cargo windows and $200 for the upper tailgate window rubber from Cabe (aka PV Cruiser overstock).

This includes the $400 for the fixed door window from SloCruiser. Yes, that is four hundred

(actually traded parts for it)

I also bought the SOR door rubber. I also got in on the deal for door and tailgate window securing rubber. I forget how much on those.

It wouldn't surprise me if I am around $1500 in rubber parts

I try not to track how much I've got in my pig but I've got a 2" stack of receipts staring at me

Yes, I'm still looking at the $250 for the rear tailgate felt/gasket. And I'm giving serious thoughts to the $350 for the front door wing gaskets. Both from SloCruiser.

You might be able to track down a generous 55 owner who has some reasonable cargo window gaskets. Then again, they may know what the new ones cost so they'd charge you $70 for a pair

k9crazy · 02-25-09, 02:17 PM

I took the plunge and bought the rubber too. All of it. Door rubber, front windshiels, vent wing windows, window channels, rear door fixed window, cargo rubber, and all the pieces for the tailgate. I'd estimate I am at $1700 easy just on rubber.

It's a labor of love....

Ming89FJ62 · 02-25-09, 02:43 PM

3-4 years ago none of the rubber was even available - it was unobtanium (except for the windshield gasket).

CarmMontana · 02-26-09, 09:04 AM

Ok point taken but I have one more question. I took my truck by a glass shop that a buddy of mine works for and he told me that he could get some universal auto weatherstrip to work on my cargo windows. Any idea if that is a no no? If it works it would be 15 dollars per window... Has anyone done this and if so was there an issue later? Thanks Guys

eventhough · 02-26-09, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarmMontana

Ok point taken but I have one more question. I took my truck by a glass shop that a buddy of mine works for and he told me that he could get some universal auto weatherstrip to work on my cargo windows. Any idea if that is a no no? If it works it would be 15 dollars per window... Has anyone done this and if so was there an issue later? Thanks Guys

For $15 a window it couldn't hurt to try on one - and if it works by all means please let us know!

Lil'John · 02-26-09, 09:31 AM

If it has the right profile, it should work... OTOH, you end up with a cut seam somewhere and perhaps a funky gap where the stock cargo weatherstrip was squarish

Kyle Leckey · 02-27-09, 10:50 AM

Have the window guy give some type of 1-5 yr guarantee.

CarmMontana · 03-01-09, 08:18 AM

Ok guys. Thanks for the info on the weather stripping. I have another question about power steering. I was going to try and use the toyota minitruck steering box as I found the setup for 150 dollars at a junk yard near by, but after reading many different articles etc I am not sure if that is my best bet. If I used the toyota minitruck setup I would be using all the linkages and arms that are used with the current gearbox stock setup, I have seen on MUD that many people eliminate many of the arms for a simpler setup. Any ideas there and any clue or opinion to what the best/least expensive solution is? Thanks

Carmon

laguna80 · 03-01-09, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarmMontana

Ok guys. Thanks for the info on the weather stripping. I have another question about power steering. I was going to try and use the toyota minitruck steering box as I found the setup for 150 dollars at a junk yard near by, but after reading many different articles etc I am not sure if that is my best bet. If I used the toyota minitruck setup I would be using all the linkages and arms that are used with the current gearbox stock setup, I have seen on MUD that many people eliminate many of the arms for a simpler setup. Any ideas there and any clue or opinion to what the best/least expensive solution is? Thanks

Carmon

I bought an FJ60 setup from a fellow mudder and will be putting it on my 55 sometime in the future. From what I read, it is a good setup and you might even be able to find one at a local junkyard as well. There's a good write-up about it as well located here:
Welcome to ROCKCRAWLER.COM (Add Power Steering to Your FJ-55)

Lil'John · 03-01-09, 09:57 AM

For PS, the two issues I've heard about the minitruck are:

keeping some points of slop in the steering system(center arm and link between center arm)
Underboosted. Aside from a 31" tire, I'd heard bad things.

The other PS conversions I've seen/heard about for the FJ55 are:

FJ60 or IFS minitruck style PS conversion. I've heard in some cases this was a bit underboosted. Makes for a clean install. May require shock tower mods.
Standard Saginaw PS type. I've heard in some cases it was overboosted. Also, trying to find the "highly" desired 4 turn 4 bolt box can be a pain. Nevermind the fact you have to do some significant cutting
Scout Saginaw PS type. Again, some times this is overboosted in some cases. You can get these rebuilt for around $150. Makes for a clean install. May require shock tower mods.

I went with the Scout Saginaw PS type conversion on my FJ55. It will see 35" tires as well as have hydro assist installed. I liked the clean install of this style as well as having enough power assist

eventhough · 03-01-09, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lil'John

If it has the right profile, it should work... OTOH, you end up with a cut seam somewhere and perhaps a funky gap where the stock cargo weatherstrip was squarish

It wouldn't be OEM but for $15 per window vs $130 I would go with it!

Re: PS - I ran a mini-truck setup for awhile on my Pig and now I'm running a Sag pump and Mini gear - worked fine when all mini. I'm SOA on 35's and never had a problem.

snailwagon · 03-02-09, 12:12 AM

I broke my pickup and had to use the Pig for wheeling yesterday, love that big ugly thing.

It's a 1969, early, like yours. Before you pull that fresh air vent knob, clean out the junk. It goes to the vent infront of the windshield. Those are a cool thing other pigs didn't get. The throttle control is something I've never seen hooked up, but is still intact on my pig.

I have the dash 4WD and hi-lo lever and I love them. It always goes into and out of 4wd and low without any hassle. When I first got it, the vacuum diaphram in the transfer case was bad. It was cheap, available from toyota, and easy to change. The vacuum actuators seem to last forever. I really prefer the dash set up. A plus is that modifying it for 2WD low is simple, there is just a pin to remove under the dash, that's it. No tools needed.

The rubber is crazy priced in my opinion also, but that's how it works. I really give props to those who stepped up to reproduce them (like PVCruisers). Too bad they ain't cheap to make. FJ55-100 used a windshield rubber gasket for the cargo windows by cutting it to size and glueing it back together. It looked very nice and was cheap. With the profile of the window frame, universal rubber seems like an awesome idea.

My pig also has a toyota power steering conversion. I run a supra pump on the passenger side. (currently kind of rigged, need to change the harmonic balancer on the new motor I installed. The old F145s came with a 2 groove pulley). I have 33" TSLs on it and it turns super easy, 1 finger steering on the road. At low RPMs on the rocks, there is much to be desired but still way easier. The FJ60 setup is way pimp compared to the stock setup, but the stock still works great. If you never need to get too crazy in the rocks the stock toyota setup is great. The pump arrangement is bad though. I have a weber, but am hard headed and refuse to use the tiny airfilters and have a stock one instead. With a stock air filter and PS, something has to go.

CarmMontana · 03-02-09, 06:10 AM

Guys. Thanks again for all the info. I have been trying to get this thing on the road. It was sitting for about 3-4 years and my brakes are trash. The clutch was pretty messed up to but after a master cylinder rebuild she works flawlessly. The next question I have is, What is the most cost effective disc brake conversion? I just can't justify spending the 60 dollars a wheel cylinder and still having all that maintenance on drums. I have been researching different routes you can go, whether that be JT'S GM setup with bracket or Mini truck knuckle swap but my question is what is the best? I know I will have to replumb my 69 and that is ok because it needs it but is there a better option out there? Can you just use newer land cruiser setups? Why can't I use land cruiser rotors? The GM ones have to be honed out like .125 inches before I can use them and I thought maybe I can just use land-cruiser stuff. Sorry if this is a huge question but I haven't found any comparison between the three maybe four options. Thanks again, this info is keeping me going for sure!

laguna80 · 03-02-09, 06:41 AM

I'm not too sure but on the older models (I don't know when it changed over) the axles are different than the 70's models and it is far easier to source a complete disc brake axle than to only add disc brakes(Anyone...is that right?). However, if your axle is the updated 70's style (not ball and claw) then you can just source parts from a 75 and up or FJ60 disc brake parts. You'll need everything from the birfields on out. I did that to my 74 and the brakes work great! I haven't changed over the rear axle yet, and I don't think I will. cylinder rebuild kits are cheap from napa if your cylinders are still serviceable.

CarmMontana · 03-02-09, 04:36 PM

So that being the case can I not use this kit? Front Disc Brake Kit Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 - JoeTLC
If I can it seems like the easiest and maybe quickest solution, other than getting a new axle