[cml25]

Hello, I've been lurking around here for a little while and thought I start a thread where I can show how not to do stuff I bought this from azredliner down in Yuma, AZ. It started right up with a little gas down the carb but would die after the gas ran out. I guess it had been sitting for a couple of years if not longer. The rear window regulator was gone (to my surprise) so at least 2 years of dirt and rain had accumulated in the back and all over the green shag that was mounted thru-out the pig. It was dirty and nasty inside. Looks like somebody had grease or oil in the back and the underside is just covered in a thick shell of mud.

The tires are all dry rotted and hold a little air. It looks like the motor has been totally de-smogged. It has a 1.5 F motor and original carb. After buying all the parts needed for a full tune-up I found out the PO had a '69 Chevy distributor on it. It seems to work ok, still haven't timed it yet. I had it running pretty good, but it was hard to start after it sat overnight. I drove it around the block and I could get up to about 30 mph before it started puttering and backfiring like crazy. It had a nasty exhaust leak at the manifold until I replaced the doughnut gasket. I siphoned as much of the old gas out as I could and it smelled like turpentine. I put in about 5 gallons of supreme gas and some octane booster and it seemed to help a little. But the same thing kept happening. I finally decided to have the carb rebuilt (marksoffroad) and take the fuel tank out and have it boiled. Well turns out I have a Long Range tank setup and it was a bitch to get out. It is held on by 4 long threaded bolts that go thru the rear cargo sheetmetal and had a large washer and a couple of nuts holding it on. I'm guessing a 45-50 gal tank. After busting 2 of the bolts off, I soaked them in PB and let it sit a few days. I finally got it off but one of the bolts had rusted to the tank and I think it started a pinhead leak. I poured out about 12 gallons of newcastle beer colored gas, full of rust and gunk. The radiator shop said they will have it done tomorrow so hopefully it's alright.

I gutted out the inside, not a lot worth saving unfortunately. The headliner was in ok condition but stained and ripped in places. The seats are nasty and had already been re-upholstered. It looks like somebody started restoring the pig but just put carpet over the rusty areas in the floorboard. And painted over the original green and white. The drip rails are pretty mangled in spots. The PO (not azredliner) had a roof rack that bent the rails really bad in a couple of places. The dash is rough but workable. I wish the 55's dash looked like the 45 or 40's. I really want to get it back to somewhat stock. I have to have AC here in AZ so that's a necessity. I love the Pumpkin Pig in the 55 registry and want to go for that look. I just want to be able to go out and it! Thanks for reading my ADD little story.

Chet

In Yuma all strapped down. There is a little dent in the passenger door, otherwise the body is in decent shape.






Inside with rear seat taken out



I though the dash wasn't so bad...



Until..



One of my car models



My other one doesn't like Dads new smelly truck.

[oldfj40]

Great looking Pig.

I'm sure your kids will love it once they go for a few rides.

Keep posting your progress.

[RHINO]

i dont think its as bad as you make it sound. you'll get it going, looking forward to another local pig owner.

[Trollhole]

I love it. Lots of small issues but the body looks great. That's the biggest step on these vehicles.

I'm almost tempted to get on a plane and fly out there and replace your fuel lines. They make me want to cry.

A grinder with a flapper pad on it will smooth down the cracks in the dash pad so the liner will lay flat. Might have to use a heat gun and some weights to get it to lay flat. Then glue the heck out of it.

I'm not sure if I'd have that Chevy distributor in there. I was under the impression the gears were a little off and it could eat your cam. I'd find a replacement fast. Your rubber fuel lines are shot. Replace with 5/16 hose and new clamps. The metal ones need to be cleaned. Cap the lowest end of the line back at the tank with the old rubber lines installed and slowly pour mineral spirits in it from the inlet connection at the fuel pump. Don't put it in the fuel pump. Let it sit for a couple day and then blow it out. I'd probably run some brake cleaner through the fuel pump. Get it clean. Or you will just have problems all over again. When Mark rebuilds the carb see if he has the float bowl valve that has the little screen filter on top. These are good for filtering the fuel before it gets into the carb. A lot of rebuild kits don't have them.

Get som 5/8 heater hose. I prefer Napa. Don't get the crap from Auto Zone or Advanced. Get a quality hose. Cause it's going to be under your ass. Replace all the heater hoses. And don't skimp out on hose clamps. Pull the radiator hoses and inspect. If they feel brital replace. Look into the water pump while you have the hoses off. Does the inside look pitted. If so spray some PB blaster on the bolts for a couple days and then remove and replace.

Replace the oil and filter before you drive it any more or start it. Bad oil that has been sitting for a while is not good and can plug passages. If it has been sitting for more than a couple years I'd pull the pan and clean the oil pump screen. I'd also run a couple of can of engine cleaner through it to get the crap out. They sell it at most storre in an old looking oil can.

Replace all fuids. Even if the radiator fluid looks good, flush and replace. Tranny, t-case, diffs, brakes and clutch.

Do all this and you should be good. Don't, then expect to have issues.

Oh and while the gas tank is out have them line it. It's cheap and good insurance. Cause you cannot just go and buy another tank easily. 55 tanks big or small are not easy to come by.

Looking forward to the build. Your way ahead of me already.

[cml25]

Thanks for the comments, and tips. Please keep them coming. I'm not trying to make it sound horrible just what it is. I think it's in pretty good shape considering some I've seen. The inside is bad, the outside is pretty good. I already changed out the fan belt, radiator hoses, fuel pump, thermostat, and flushed the radiator. I need to do the oil, Tranny, t-case, diffs, brakes and clutch still. I poured in a can of Seafoam right when I got it so hopefully thats doing something. I have new brake shoes and brake hoses ready but have never messed with drums before so I'm a little nervous. The brake pedal needs to be pumped to keep pressure. I don't see any leaking from the Brake MC and the reservoir's are still full. Bad brake booster? Air in the lines? The heater was disconnected when I got it. The rear heater fan was shot. I pulled it all out and plan on getting a aftermarket AC/Heater. That's one thing that needs to work or it will never get driven for 9 months I plan on using the pig for my DD and light wheeling. I found that getting the right radiator hoses was a pain. The top hose is to long and I'm screwed on the bottom because the heater "T" fitting was gone when I got it. They had rigged a napa hose to fit but it's the wrong size. Any ideas? It's a basic L shapped hose with a 1.5" opening on top and 1.25" on bottom. I thought about trying to find the fitting and just capping the heater hose side. I'll try to take some better pictures tonight.

[RHINO]

MC doesnt have to leak to sink,,, if the piston seal are bad fluid can move back and forth past it.

rad hoses are available from one of the many cruiser parts guys on this site. check around for who has them at any given time, kurt, cdan, ect.

the T fitting is something you can get aftermarket, ask the napa guy to look in the catalog, but i bet one of the guys here has a good used one.

drums are not so bad, do one at a time so you can look at the other one for reference or take a pick before teardown.

i have a dizzy.

[PabloCruise]

Nice '74 Chet - good luck!!!

[Lucy_FJ55]

Nice score Chet! And a '74 to boot. She looks to be in decent shape, the finer things will come eventually. Now you just need to get her driveable. Good luck, you've come to the right place for help.

Cheers, Carlos.
OINK! OINK!

[cml25]

Thanks PabloCruise and Lucy_FJ55! Getting her driveable is priority #1 right now. Then AC, interior, outside body & paint. I'd like to do a frame off some day but that's down the line a while.
I have a question for all you motor guru's, what dizzy's will and won't work with my setup?
I have a 74 1.5 F motor, de-smogged. The carb is being ported for vac advance. Would this one work?

TOYOTA VACUUM ADVANCE IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR

Thanks again!

[cml25]

Some more misc. pics

Do you guys think replacing both the Brake and Clutch MC is a good idea? Cost isn't really bad and I'd rather do it now when it's just sitting anyway?



I've got a lot of oil seepage along the back valve cover. I read that the steel ones are prone to leaking? Worth getting an aluminum? Also the two sensors need to be rewired and possibly replaced. One is the water temp (the t) and the other is?



Look at the rust already on the brand new water pump :( I would of painted it or clear coated it.. had I know.



This is what the floor looks like under the black crap on the drivers side, not bad. The whole inside is colored/covered in rust/poo colored glue used to hold the shag down. Nasty stuff..



Could use a nice steering wheel..



Are these the original bumpers? (the plastic bag is to cover the rear window until I get a regulator from Mark)





Anybody have this plastic piece? Front passenger door.



Reverse light lens? Or newer replacement options for all of the running lights, turn signals, brake lights?
I've seen a ton of the newer 75 up versions, but no 74 and older.

[jimhendrixx]

Wow man, that is sweet! best of luck on your build.

Mahalo

[Lucy_FJ55]

Nope, not the original bumpers...

[cml25]

Originally Posted by Lucy_FJ55

Nope, not the original bumpers...

Thanks, I didn't think so. I kinda like them though. I'm thinking about sandblasting them and powdercoating them the stock grey color.

[cml25]

Anybody tried painting or powder coating the dash? It's the one part of the 55's I just don't care for. The ones in good condition are cool but mine isn't. How hard would it be to use the FJ40 steel dash and gauges? I know thats messing with the whole stock look but you can only polish a turd so much..

[cml25]

I got my gas tank back and they cleaned it up nice fixed some leaks and even painted it. Not to shabby.

[PabloCruise]

That is a sweet tank!

I think they sold new for ~$1000

I hope that makes you feel better about your Pig purchase price!

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by cml25

Some more misc. pics

Reverse light lens? Or newer replacement options for all of the running lights, turn signals, brake lights?
I've seen a ton of the newer 75 up versions, but no 74 and older.

Check w/ Patrick: http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-classif...se-lights.html

[cml25]

Will do, Thanks!

[n2666s]

very nice pig.....you got a very good one by what I can tell..............the dash will clean up nicely; look at Brett's thread on cleaning up knobs + heater and Trollhole's on dash restore; lots to do to get them reliable and rustfree/protected without chasing down a lot of tangent variables
IMHO; if its working don't fix it...........just my 0.02

Lou

[n2666s]

Mother's rubber/vinil cleaner and the spray protector + used kiddie toothbrushes will add a lot to your dash BTW......lovely "helpers" you are a very lucky dude

Lou

[cml25]

Thanks Lou, they are the reason for the 55 and not a 40. I agree with the if its working don't fix it.

[Pighead]

You sure do ask a lot of questions...
I got that plastic piece for the door.
I got those back up lenses.
Get the '68 dizzy from Mark A.
I think you should rebuild the brake master, the clutch master and slave. and all your wheel cylinders.
I got the lower radiator metal hose thingy.
I got an aluminum valve cover.
I might have a brake light lens.
Why not start a parts needed thread in the classifieds?

Nice Pig. '74s are my favorites.

[n2666s]

have a 74 also.....love the 1 1/2 engine......curious why the 68 dizzy instead of a later one?........hijack off;

Lou

Originally Posted by Pighead

You sure do ask a lot of questions...
I got that plastic piece for the door.
I got those back up lenses.
Get the '68 dizzy from Mark A.
I think you should rebuild the brake master, the clutch master and slave. and all your wheel cylinders.
I got the lower radiator metal hose thingy.
I got an aluminum valve cover.
I might have a brake light lens.
Why not start a parts needed thread in the classifieds?

Nice Pig. '74s are my favorites.

[Pighead]

Vacuum advance as opposed to vacuum retard (which came stock on the '74)

Originally Posted by n2666s

have a 74 also.....love the 1 1/2 engine......curious why the 68 dizzy instead of a later one?........hijack off;

Lou

[PabloCruise]

For some reason, it seems like '74's are the survivors!

I am sporting a Jan '74 w/ an '88 or later dizzy...

[CommandR]

I've got a big dizzy from a 86FJ60 and a ported vac. adv. aisin carb.
IMHO,I'd suggest the upgrade to the FJ60 big cap electronic ignition instead of the 68' small cap dizzy with the pertronix.
If you find yourself in maricopa LMK and if you need an extra hand I'm sure I could help.
I got my rad. hoses from autozone for about twenty dollars you just have to have your hoses in hand to compare them to the ones on the shelf. I wouldn't worry about the drum brakes, in other words, don't let them intimidate ya. Personally, nothing on these old rigs are to hard for the typical backyard mechanic to do. This should help ya with the brakes;Land Cruiser Drum Brakes
Without knowing the condition of your brakes I can't give my opinion but with my pig I just adjusted the brakes and bleed them system, called it done. Overall, looks like you've got a nice ride as everyone as mentioned and you seem to be like a kid with a new toy just like I am with my rigs.
CDR

[DesertLake]

Use dry ice on the black sh'tuff on the driver's side. Wish I'd heard about it sooner, it saves a lot of work.

[cml25]

PabloCruise - Mine is also a January 74 pig.

CommandR - Do you think the 86FJ60 Dizzy would be better than the 68? Why? Thanks for the brake link, I'm going to do some reading.

DesertLake - Thanks, I actually saw your thread and remembered that tip.

Mark from MarksOffroad called my Friday and said my Carb is done and on it's way! He said it was the most miserable carb rebuild he's had to do. I'm just glad he was the one working on it and not me. Thanks to all that have given Mark parts, seems he had to use a few different carbs to get all the right parts for mine. As Pighead suggested I need to start a parts needed wishlist in the classifieds as the list just keeps growing...

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by cml25

PabloCruise - Mine is also a January 74 pig....

Cool!

What is your VIN?

[cml25]

Pretty close to yours.