![]() |
Support our Advertising Vendors!! |
|
|||||||
|
|
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 13
|
New found inspiration
Greetings to all,
I have been inspired to restart my build on my 76, but before I do this I have a few questions that would help with my build. first a little info on the rig... completely stock 1976 FJ55, 2F engine. Now the questions. 1. Suspension lift: What is needed to be able to run 35's. Do I need to do a SOA? Or can I go a different route. Which are the best springs to use? Should I also install new shackles. Has anyone use Atlas Springs? 2. Axles: This questions is not completely clear... I want to take the rig to my local playground and play in the mud a little. Are the axles strong enough to withstand the abuse or should I look into swaping out the axles 3. Gears: Are the stock gears set up to run the 35's? if not what gear ratios are best for the 35's 4. Brakes: I serviced my brakes recently (new pads front and rear, rotors, brake lines, master cylinder) but I am still getting a spongy feeling. I bleed the lines about 3 times and still getting the same results, any ideas? Thank you in advance to anyone who replies |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 | ||
|
IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Nor Cal in the garage with a Cruiser
Posts: 640
|
Quote:
Downside of SOA is axle wrap but you can put a bar on that to stop it. Quote:
I ran my minitruck converted axle behind a V8 with no issues but I also wasn't overly abusive. The other minor issue is the pinion that may or may not be coarse spline. But if you are changing gears, it is a non-issue. If you are sticking with the 2F, I think the magic number is 4.88 gears... with a V8, 4.11s worked fine for my 40. __________________ -1971 FJ55: 6.0L-NV4500-doubler, SOA, D60s, ARB'd... and cupholders ![]() -1972 extra cab FJ45... 10 year project with a BB cady... DOA 08 ![]() |
||
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mixco, Guatemala/Cranbrook & Vancouver, B.C., Canada
TLCA# 16387
Posts: 7,370
|
On the brakes I'd try adjusting the rear brake shoes a little (the rear brake shoes are NOT self adjusting like on newer cars). You should be doing this once every 6-9 months depending on how much you drive.
__________________ '82 BJ60 H55 tranny, AXT turbo 3B diesel, high nickel alloy head, A/C, BDS lift, factory PTO, Aussie rear locker, OEM LSD front, 4:11's, 32's, PERFECT frame! '76 FJ55, 3B turbo, alloy head, H41 tranny, 3 sp. transfer, 33's, A/C, PTO winch, long range tank! '67 FJ45LV shop project c/w 3B turbo diesel transplant & H41 4 speed, 3 speed transfer, PTO! www.wirrell.com |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
when in doubt tube it out
|
What are you planning to do with it...mud rocks DD, that will determine the gears, then the tires, then suspension,
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 | |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
Quote:
2. cruiser axles are plenty strong unless you seriously abuse them. see lil' john's post. one note, if you do have the course spline pinion, you will have to get new flanges if you regear and will have to drill the flanges to match your driveshaft. 3. 4.56 -4.88 4. I've found power bleeding with a good machine makes a major difference over one way check valves, siphon bleeding, or the two person bleed. also, you have two wheel cylinders per wheel in the back and they have to be adjusted in unison. you also might try rebuilding your calipers. good luck __________________ seven cruisers and 3 of em run and four are for sale |
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Mortgage | Credit Card | Credit Report | Loans | Car Loans |