74 Pig Build

DesertLake · 09-26-08, 10:14 PM

Nothing more than an idea for now...

http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pi...headliner.html

and I'm not sure it's a good idea. It may be a lot noisier than the fabric headliner. Since I don't have the cash to do anything about it for now, I can dream up all kinds of ideas and not get in too much trouble.

DesertLake · 10-18-08, 07:55 PM

I'm trying to remove the front two rusted body bolts...not sure if I'm doing this right.
I've removed the bottom nut and lockwasher, but the bolt still won't budge.
How does this work? Is the bolt threaded into something?
I've tried an impact driver, air impact driver, and breaker bar. It's going to soak in liquid wrench tonight.

LC_Hamma · 10-18-08, 09:50 PM

You'll need to heat up the threads of the bolt till it's red. There's a sleeve in there so don't worry about melting the rubber body mount. Spray some penetrating oil immediately after to cool. Loosening up the other front body mounts, under the floorpan, will let you work them loose & that'll break the bound up rusted bolts. BTDT

DesertLake · 10-25-08, 07:48 PM

I should have said front bolts under the floorpan - the ones I'm trying to remove are forward of the driver's seat.

So far no luck, and I've now rounded the head a bit. I see a lot of rust on the threads, I think the bolt is now part of the sleeve. I also tried grinding a notch in the head and using my impact flathead, which is now shattered. The head had corroded to the point that a metric socket was too loose a fit, although when I heat it it almost fits a standard socket.

The first question I should have asked was, are these bolts replaceable? I see SOR has the rubber but not the hardware.

Next, assuming I've pretty much destroyed the bolt I have and it's still stuck, how should I remove it?

LC_Hamma · 10-25-08, 10:13 PM

Grind/ cut off the bolt head & spray a ton of penetrant down the sides of the bolt. Lift up the body a little to try & seperate. Knock out the bolt from the top. Those body mounts were packed w/ dirt on mine. I just cut both sides out & refabbed new one's that are DRAINABLE. You think this area is

wait till you get to the rear hinges on the tailgate.

DesertLake · 10-25-08, 10:46 PM

Thanks! I got the tailgate off no problem, but getting the torsion bar back in is going to be a bear I know. I used the Sears impact driver to remove the bolts - but I gather my rust situation was better than most.

DesertLake · 02-22-09, 01:23 PM

Man, I'm going slow.

Regarding the bolts, I just needed a bigger BFH. I bought the new bushings from SOR, but I don't understand how the lower bushing fits unless I grind some metal off the frame. I'll figure it out later.

and I removed the inner fenders a few weeks ago.
This weekend I cut off the custom radiator mounts.

was working with her lathe off to the right, I failed to notice the shower of sparks my grinder was making landing on her.

DesertLake · 02-22-09, 01:27 PM

Backing up a weekend...

a little child labor never hurt anybody.

pattho · 03-09-09, 01:53 PM

let me know when you work on this guy

I been wanting a pig to rebuild and will trade some labor for the experience!

DesertLake · 03-09-09, 07:27 PM

I will definitely need a hand when I pull the engine and transmission...I don't know what I'm doing either so wear steel toes.

DesertLake · 03-09-09, 07:45 PM

More slow disassembly...pulled the steering box and most of the accessories.

Dig the custom AC bracket spacers:

I guess someone removed the steering box and lost the bolts at some point Every single bolt (and I use the term bolt loosely) is different.

While I'm thinking about it, can anyone tell me how to remove the transmission shifter? Do I pull the whole top cover off the transmission?

SD_rdcruzer · 03-09-09, 08:57 PM

Stock tranny?

DesertLake · 03-09-09, 08:58 PM

Yep, stock 4 speed.

SD_rdcruzer · 03-09-09, 09:16 PM

Take the rubber cover off and you will see where it goes into the transmission. Push down on the center cover and turn it clockwise. The whole shift lever will come right out.

SD_rdcruzer · 03-09-09, 09:20 PM

Here is a link to a "how to"
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...oval-help.html

DesertLake · 03-09-09, 09:52 PM

Ah so!
I used the tool Toyota obviously intended for the job...

Thanks!

DesertLake · 03-15-09, 08:22 PM

I think I found the right tool for the job on the headliner glue. The pictured area is just a few minutes of work. At the wrong angle it will gouge the roof a little, but not enough to really worry about...

.

Eric Ellis · 03-15-09, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DesertLake

I think I found the right tool for the job on the headliner glue. The pictured area is just a few minutes of work. At the wrong angle it will gouge the roof a little, but not enough to really worry about...

]

Wow and chicago electric...(Harbor frt?) Soooo much better than that $300.00 fein. I didn't know there was a CE one of those.

DesertLake · 03-15-09, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Ellis

Wow and chicago electric...(Harbor frt?) Soooo much better than that $300.00 fein. I didn't know there was a CE one of those.

$40 at Harbor, noisy as hell, and runs hot. If it lasts just long enough to finish the roof it'll be worth the money.

Edit - I also paid the $4 for 1 year replacement. So one way or another it'll get the job done, even if I have to make a few extra 15 mile round trips.

DesertLake · 03-21-09, 07:15 PM

Followup - the scraper works pretty well, but it would be better if it were narrower. I may grind it down. I also tried the Dremel flexible scraper attachment, it skips right over the hard glue, even when flexing against the roof. I can see it being useful for other things. I'm not sure about the rest of the dremel attachments, but this one is thinner than the arbor, so I cut a washer out of the plastic blister pack and that locked it in place.

After about 15 minutes my hands are tingling, and the CE tool is pretty warm, so I take lots of breaks. I'll probably finish this week.

Eric Ellis · 03-21-09, 07:32 PM

I like that report. Guess I'll be going down the road to Harbor.

DesertLake · 03-21-09, 10:15 PM

A couple of views of your working angle...push up and forward, if the blade stops then back off because it is gouging the metal.

n2666s · 03-25-09, 01:38 PM

can you share pix of the blade itself?.....

wondering about the angle on it; TIA

Lou

DesertLake · 03-26-09, 06:46 AM

It's the blade that came with the tool, same as in post 47. I'll see if I can get a pic from the side to show the profile of it in the next day or two.

n2666s · 03-26-09, 07:49 AM

Thanx........the nearest HF is about 70 miles away

Lou

DesertLake · 03-28-09, 07:03 PM

Scraping done.

Scraper still works, but the blade is a bit dull toward the center - I adjusted the angle I held the scraper at toward the end to use one side or the other of the blade.

Lou, is this the shot you're looking for?

DesertLake · 05-03-09, 06:51 PM

A few weeks ago I scored a 203 range box, but it is still sitting at my dad's place in Bakersfield. I had to choose between bringing it back and bringing back a few cases of my favorite beer. Beer won.

I'm about to drop the gas tank. I now have rotten gas in my arm pit.

DesertLake · 05-16-09, 10:27 PM

Surprisingly, the tank came back from the radiator shop in good shape. They repatched the one pinhole I had fixed 12 or 13 years ago. The custom replacement tank just went from a necessity to a nice to have.

LC_Hamma · 05-16-09, 10:45 PM

I don't remember why you were removing the headliner padding

You replacing it w/ some other type of liner/ insulation? New headliner too?
I wouldn't want to tackle another

w/ rust again

Your family project is coming along nicely. Keep it up even if it's a slow pace. I've had to take a few breaks too. It just gets too monotonous sometimes.

DesertLake · 05-17-09, 07:49 AM

Thanks for the encouragement, it does help!

I will replace the insulation with something, but I haven't thought that far ahead yet.

At least I know there's up there...