Making up scuff/sill plates, are you interested??

cruiser_guy · 05-22-08, 06:56 AM

Lou, the things I'm looking for in the scuff plates are the interface that Eric has pointed out, the gentle bends rather than the hard corners and the gentle upward curves at each end. Also the passenger and drivers sides are different widths to allow for the wiring loom to pass on one side.

Eric, still working on finding a press brake, it looks like we might be getting closer. We were talking to sheet metal guys before, now we are talking to folks doing heavier stuff who cannot use a regular sheet metal brake.

Eric Ellis · 05-22-08, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

Eric, still working on finding a press brake, it looks like we might be getting closer. We were talking to sheet metal guys before, now we are talking to folks doing heavier stuff who cannot use a regular sheet metal brake.

If you saw my 55 you'd wonder how in the world I could be even thinking about scuff plates at this time

.

But it does drive so, I'm up for scuffs at any time. Though like you, in the end run I like the notion of OEM replicated. No rush here on that. I know it is a challange and there are only so many hours in a day.

cruiser_guy · 05-22-08, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Ellis

If you saw my 55 you'd wonder how in the world I could be even thinking about scuff plates at this time

.

I expect I'll see it in a week and a half or so! We expect to be stateside on June 2.

Eric Ellis · 05-22-08, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

I expect I'll see it in a week and a half or so! We expect to be stateside on June 2.

Great. Hope the weather will be better. We have had a protracted bunch of winds this year. I10 west has been closed a number of times. Today it's gusting up to 52mph. Dust isn't as bad as yesterday though. Should just hang parts up on a pole for sandblasting. I'll send you an email here as well.
Eric

Luke111 · 05-23-08, 06:48 PM

Thanks for the pic's, the one issue I see with OEM is it will determine the type of welting weather strip one uses, at least it appears to spilt the welting and weather strip. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
The first picture shows the SOR welting/weather strip, is this how the factory plate sits?
In the others shot's I took the sample welting /weather strip I got from Restoration Spl and useing a band saw split the two, leaving the strip of metal attached to the weather strip for support.
This piece then could be glued to the scuff plates to seal the bottom edge of the door.

The front plates are both the same widths, just make it easier to produce and keeps the price down.

Luke111 · 05-23-08, 06:52 PM

Weather strip on the scuff plate

Luke111 · 05-23-08, 06:57 PM

This shows the width, with room for the wiring loom.

cruiser_guy · 05-23-08, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luke111

Thanks for the pic's, the one issue I see with OEM is it will determine the type of welting weather strip one uses, at least it appears to spilt the welting and weather strip. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

The front plates are both the same widths, just make it easier to produce and keeps the price down.

The factory scuff plate doesn't split the weatherstrip, it simply slips into the space between the welting and the weatherstrip, maybe 1/8" or so (certainly not all the way to the bottom) and the factory weatherstrip and welting both meet under the scuff plate. The scuff plate is only fastened to the floor on the inside edge.

I assume the rear scuff plates would also be the same then as the wiring loom also passes under one of the rear doors.

I'm going to pass on the extruded scuff plates though as I'm still gunning for a more OEM look in either stainless or aluminum.

Eric Ellis · 05-23-08, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

The factory scuff plate doesn't split the weatherstrip, it simply slips into the space between the welting and the weatherstrip, maybe 1/8" or so (certainly not all the way to the bottom) and the factory weatherstrip and welting both meet under the scuff plate. The scuff plate is only fastened to the floor on the inside edge.

Lou, This picture somewhat demonstrates what Cruiser_guy is saying. These are two non-wiring side plates that are clamped floor side level (the side where the screws hold the floor tab to the floorboard). As you can see there are compound "gentle" curves that follow the door and welting/WS contour. As you can imagine the outer lip is just reaching over the welting to nestle in the welting/WS cleavage (ah-hem, so as to speak

).

this would somewhat be approximated with yours if the shorter side were placed into the cleavage. (editorially, I don't think I care for that SOR stuff not that there are any real options currently though I think the OEM style scuff would work with it).

I think your adaption can work well and in the end run the main thing in my mind is can a door be sealed (no rubber no seal). Next to that I have the bug to restore as much as possible as per the OEM. But if we are about protecting door/rocker edge and wiring and restraining water then you are moving in the right direction.

Luke111 · 05-24-08, 04:50 AM

Thanks guy's, that explains a lot and that last picture helps, I'll talk to the company about the OEM design to see if its possible. I don't think they are set up to produce that so I keep working and improving what I've got going. The rear plate is just like the front. Eric your last comment pretty much sums up my direction, looking for protection and something that will support my weight (195LB) if I stand on it to remove things from the rack, or just to wash to top.
Eric, that appears to be a serious vinyl collection is the background

Lou

Eric Ellis · 05-24-08, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luke111

The rear plate is just like the front.
Lou

Lou, wasn't sure if that was a statement (as it appears to be or question). The rear are the same as the front effectively, but they are substantially shorter of course.

vinyl- tks

Luke111 · 05-24-08, 02:35 PM

Eric, your are correct, just a statement. Do you feel that the OEM plates can support weight? Due to the fact that the outer edge is not really supported ,they arn't designed to support that much weight. Is that correct? In your photo the left plate looks a bit flat in spots, so I'm just wondering about that.

Lou

cruiser_guy · 05-24-08, 05:04 PM

Lou, the factory scuff plates are supported by the welting that runs underneath them. They are fastened to the floor on the inside (4 screws), rise up and over the wire loom (if present), over the welting and down into the cleavage (to use Eric's terminology) of the welting and weather strip! So they are supported some what but all factory scuff plates are wavy due to folks stepping on them. They are no more than maybe 16 ga. aluminum.

Eric Ellis · 05-24-08, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

Lou, the factory scuff plates are supported by the welting that runs underneath them. They are fastened to the floor on the inside (4 screws), rise up and over the wire loom (if present), over the welting and down into the cleavage (to use Eric's terminology) of the welting and weather strip! So they are supported some what but all factory scuff plates are wavy due to folks stepping on them. They are no more than maybe 16 ga. aluminum.

All in all though it is hard to say how well they hold up for say, the first 10 years? As we are looking at 29 to 40 year old vehicles who can say. From the two 55's I have delt with close up...the weaker link is the wiring side...it is quite a bridge to span those wires so, they are inherently structurally challanged.

And I know my 75 went through a robust family of kiddo's and my 70 parts went through roof climbing, star gazeing roof dancing got the groove on syringe leaving tie dye "bliss".

cardinal fang · 05-25-08, 09:04 PM

Hope you got my PM for a complete set? If not, count me in for a set. You say when and I will pay up.

cruiser_guy · 05-25-08, 09:16 PM

Eric, maybe I should concentrate on getting them in stainless then. They would certainly be stronger as stainless doesn't bend very easily. The problem I'd see in stainless is getting the upturn at the ends. The upturn would be relatively easy with aluminum as it is very malleable but stainless...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Ellis

From the two 55's I have delt with close up...the weaker link is the wiring side...it is quite a bridge to span those wires so, they are inherently structurally challanged.

Eric Ellis · 05-25-08, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

Eric, maybe I should concentrate on getting them in stainless then. They would certainly be stronger as stainless doesn't bend very easily. The problem I'd see in stainless is getting the upturn at the ends. The upturn would be relatively easy with aluminum as it is very malleable but stainless...

Charles, when you come through we will grab the other set here and look at them a little more. I am thinking they must have held up pretty well for a long time in the original. And something as simple as use of an additional pc of welting over the wires might make a supportive difference on the wear. As I recall it off hand, the wires sit lower than the welting and and rocker/floor edge...that would factor into stress failure.

But really, I would not second guess your judgement.

Luke111 · 06-13-08, 09:40 PM

Sorry for the delay with the scuff plates , dealing with the

, and just got back from Calif. Stopped by TLC and Sor, Jonathan and Marv were great, got the full tour around both places. Anyway the order goes in Monday and I'll post a list of those who requested ,them just to make sure I don't miss anyone.

Lou

Luke111 · 06-17-08, 08:12 AM

Heres the list, If I missed anyone please let me know

TheSherpa (Steve Fox)
Romegadave
John Smith
AACruiser (Allyn Anderson)
Sporin (Dave)
Rapovt
Cardinal Fang (Bill Jackson)
Desert Lake 2 sets
N266s (Lou) 2 sets

No need to send money, I want to check them out first.

Lou

eperry0303 · 06-17-08, 01:50 PM

Just sent you a PM, looking to get added to the list....

Thanks much for all of your work on these!

Luke111 · 06-18-08, 08:56 PM

Your in and you've been PM'd

Lou

Luke111 · 07-10-08, 01:23 PM

The scuff plates should be in my hands in two weeks, I wanted a sample of the finish, its not polished but kind of satin and will except paint. Coming to a Cruiser near you soon!!

Lou

zornff · 07-10-08, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luke111

Heres the list, If I missed anyone please let me know

TheSherpa (Steve Fox)
Romegadave
John Smith
AACruiser (Allyn Anderson)
Sporin (Dave)
Rapovt
Cardinal Fang (Bill Jackson)
Desert Lake 2 sets
N266s (Lou) 2 sets

No need to send money, I want to check them out first.

Lou

I just saw this and i need them also. Am i too late ? If not i'm down for a complete set. Mike

Luke111 · 07-10-08, 07:24 PM

Mike I have you covered for a set. PM'd you

Lou

Lil'John · 07-10-08, 07:41 PM

I think I missed the cost on these... I should be down for a set.

Luke111 · 07-10-08, 07:54 PM

It's $30 plus shipping, I think I have you cover. I'll check with the company in the am. I order a couple of extra sets and try and add a few more>

Lou

Eric Ellis · 07-10-08, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luke111

It's $30 plus shipping, I think I have you cover. I'll check with the company in the am. I order a couple of extra sets and try and add a few more>

Lou

You have a prototype end run appearence? I may have missed it...if so

.

Looking at your rebuild thread and the work you do there I'd love to see these.

Lil'John · 07-10-08, 10:33 PM

I'll definitely be in for a set then. If you have any left.

Luke111 · 07-11-08, 07:17 PM

Eric, the scuff plates should look just like the one I made, it will be bent to shape and the ends will be laser cut. Plain, no paint or rubber, that way you can finish them the way you want. Could not afford the cost to have just one made as a prototype. Thats why I haven"t ask for funds yet. Not sure if this answers your question .Lil John you are all set. Eric did you want a set?

Lou

Eric Ellis · 07-11-08, 08:56 PM

Lou,
You know my ambitions OEM, but your work is always excellent and rigorous. For the pragmatic end and aesthetic end as well, yours are looking really nice. I'm hedging on pennies here ( on accounta I aint nearly as frugal as I should be).

I will mull this tonight and give you an answer in the morning if ok. I am of the mind that it might not be a bad hedge on the road to my goal of OEM copies.

Thanks, Eric.