[Lil'John]

Doh... law of predoing stuff without seeing it installed strikes again

Long story short, looks like all that fancy NP203 drilling and tapping I got done months ago ended up clocking the tcase up too far

Now I've got a pretty good sized hole under the passenger side floor. This is to accommodate the vacuum pod

Guess it looks like I've got a flat tcase

I may take a run down there to see the damage as well as see about having some hood work done instead of swapping intakes and stuff

[Lil'John]

I wish there was a day I could report only good news

But I'll start with the good news.

Don got the PS box mounted and it looks VERY nice. He spaced it off the frame about 3/4". The holes in the frame are sleeved AND he drilled the box holes out so he could use bigger bolts

He's also got the frame rails scabbed up... both inside and out on BOTH sides of the frame The scab plates run more or less from spring hanger to shackle hanger

I snuck a picture of the transfercase Needless to say, I think the AA kit clocked the tcase a little bit and then I added in another 5 degrees to the NP203... so um... yeah. VERY flat and I think my new fill hole will be the vent at the top

I also got a side shot of the transfercase... before floor hole cutting, it is down below the frame rails about 6-7". So yup, lot of transfercase coming in through the floor

Don seems to think he can do something with the hood to clear the engine and have it look "factoryish" rather than a big blower scoop that screams "this douche has a big engine under the hood". As soon as we get closer to doing the hood, I'll confirm he can do the main work on it cheaper than I can get the intake swapping parts and labor. Personally, I'd rather that money go to Don than some random guy anyways

The transmission shifter looks to come through the hole that was already cut in the tunnel But the rest of the tranny tower may hit the heater

Still mostly on the deadline of having the drivetrain in by Friday or Monday. He's had a few little jobs come in.

Onto the pic descriptions:
First picture is a back view of the transfercase. I believe my camera is VERY close to level. You can see how much it is clocked upward(counter clockwise). Glad the piggy has long front/rear driveshafts now.

Second picture is a side view of the drivetrain before it goes through the floor. Yes, there is a shadow and yes, that is almost the full NP203 PTO cover showing But this also shows that the NP203 is going to be the lowest part of my drivetrain(well, aside from the oilpan)

[Lil'John]

Five seconds after I post the above, I remember the other kick in the nuts. The Durabak didn't stick Apparently during one of the clean up sessions, Don had a little peal up which lead to the WHOLE firewall section just pulling off

There wasn't anything I could have done better for the prep short of sand blasting it down to bare metal. I wire wheeled the whole area. I Xylened it around three times to make sure everything was grease/oil free. And then I put 4-5 coats of Durabak on it.

So I'd say in my experience Durabak is a worthless product. I would recommend Herculiner over Durabak aside from the fact that it is worse than sandpaper for texture

[Mrbinks79]

Lil'john do you know anything about SEM Products? I'm seriously thinking about going the pighead route. Would like to have some color though

[Lil'John]

Originally Posted by Mrbinks79

Lil'john do you know anything about SEM Products? I'm seriously thinking about going the pighead route. Would like to have some color though

Haven't heard of SEM products.

And you do get color from Herculiner... black and faded black Actually, Herc does have a limited color spectrum available.

My experience is with Durabak's smooth liner. There was an FJ80 in the paint section that did the exterior of his FJ80 in Durabak also. You might try seeing how his is surviving.

One thing to keep in mind is I used right at 3/4 of a gallon to do 4-5 coats in my engine bay. 1 gallon cost around $120. It might actually be more cost effective to do professional spray on liner.

[Mrbinks79]

Yeah but the spray liner is kinda difficult too because they spray everything from what I've heard and if you don't mark the holes for all the bolts for everything well lets just say I've heard it's a PITA. If only herculiner made green...

[Lil'John]

You will run into the same issue with the herculiner/durabak as far as holes and bolts.

When I was doing the engine bay, I put bolts into all the holes and then once I finished coating it, I cut around the bolt and removed it.

[Mrbinks79]

Yeah I was talking to a guy that had his professionally sprayed and he did most of the prep and then put bolts in and discussed leaving the bolts in and the company pulled them all out. He was kinda screwed.

[Lil'John]

Originally Posted by Mrbinks79

the company pulled them all out. He was kinda screwed.

Kind of literally too

I think on the inside, there should be the minimal amount of screws/bolts that need to be marked. And I would think a nice big note in the rig saying to leave the bolts should prevent that issue

OTOH, I've been the victim of a note not working Nothing like 8" high letters saying "Do not nail" still not getting the point across (4x8 sheet of plywood ended up with a few dozen nails in it anyways )

[Mrbinks79]

Yeah I know of one shop in the town where I am that does the liners and the company that I work for uses them exclusivly for glass work so I'm hoping I can get a good deal. I'm going to chat with them when I get home from this school.

[Luke111]

John here's what you need for protection.

[Mrbinks79]

Luke111 that's nice any change you have the template and measurements handy?

[Luke111]

Originally Posted by Mrbinks79

Luke111 that's nice any change you have the template and measurements handy?

The boys at Iron Pig Off Road built it. But if you have welding skills its a pretty straight forward design. Depth and width may differ. I've got the H55 trans so I'm not sure if everything would carry over, if you want the measurements let me know. But this would be easy to fab in cardboard as a guide.

Lou

[Luke111]

Here's another shot showing the exhaust running above it.

Lou

[Lil'John]

Thanks for the pictures Lou. Your rig and the build up thread have been inspiring

I think my pan will be looking similar to:


I think I may end up having the tcase hang about 1" below the frame rails... if it hangs below at all The above picture is what Don did to his 55 so I'm sure he'll fab up something similar

[Luke111]

John looks like you have the right guy hooking you up, thats a great looking plate and he's got everything high and tight.

Lou

[OinkOinker]

i like the looks of whats hiding in the background of that pic......

[Mrbinks79]

Lou, I'll let you know when I get closer to the point where my pig is road and off road worthy. Hope to have some more time at home soon to work on the ole, pig. Soon I hope. Thanks

[Lil'John]

Sorry for the lack of updates/pictures. I've been scrambling with camping/swap meet/being sick.

But, we are at the major parts being done and down to the tweaking and sheet metal work

I've got the drivetrain mounted(currently pulled for finish welding and painting) Looks like I am probably going to not use the vacuum shifter

The outside and inside of the frame was reinforced at the motor area(basically all the area between spring mount and shackle mount) The frame is also plated where the belly pan is mounted. As thought, the belly pan looks VERY close to the picture I showed above

I've got the radiator mounted. Looks VERY sexy.

I've got the steering box, column, and all the linkage hooked up. The box is 3/4" spaced out from the frame. It is setup for hydro assist. There is also an extra support from the front cross member to the box to prevent frame flex/bowing from the steering box

I seem to be finding out all sorts of new stuff working on the pig.
First, the dash area is deeper than the FJ40. This made the mounting of the steering column different than what I did for the 40. But it still looks VERY good *drool*

Second, radiator on the FJ55 is solid mounted while on the FJ40, it is in a frame and then on bushings. The new radiator setup looks VERY nice and includes a spot for me to mount a Chevy belt diagram

Third, it appears that Advanced Adapters now clocks their NP203 adapter. It looks like I will be swapping my new one for my old one so I can clock the tcase down a hairSee the two attached pictures.

Due to clearances at the oil pan, I was looking at two things: swap oilpans($200ish in parts + labor) or go spring over with the ARB'd Dana 60s I've got sitting around.

With that thought, I've decided to hell with intermediate steps and lets go hit the SOA with 35s. Step one is gear the axles to 4.88s(current best guess considering the overdrive)

The specs on the axles are:
Front axle: Dodge dana 60 narrowed to 60"(aka lopped 7 inches off the long side) Currently drive flanges with the dreaded "external" mount hubs. Histeer arms by BTF. ARB with 3.54 gears. Spring over pads on it set for FJ40 width

Rear axle: Dodge dana 60 HD narrowed to 60"(lopped all of it off the driver side) Currently has Ruff Stuff "bridge" over the diff. ARB with 3.54 gears. No pads on it

I got a little sticker shock from the first bill but the work makes it SOOOO worth it

Current list of things to get done include:
- mount Dana 60s
- inside sheet metal
- exhaust
- driveshafts
- cut rockers
- mount seats

Currently up in the air:
- front bumper
- rear bumper
- cut rear rockers
- fix rear marker light

Onto the two pictures.
If you look at the red box on both pictures, you can see the the difference in height.

And don posted pictures over on pirate in the middle of this post so I'll cross post them here on Monday

[LC_Hamma]

ARB'd Dana 60s
That's what I'm sayin!

35s
I assume you want this size in order to not trim the rear fenders?

SOA
If you can keep your COG low, it'll be *decent

Rear axle: Dodge dana 60 HD narrowed to 60"(lopped all of it off the driver side)
Don't you mean the pass. side? Did they press out the tube or sleeve the chopped side & reweld?

Amazing how these projects turn from stocker rebuild to all out better perfoming rigs on the street or trail This is how mine started too. Teriffic job on this buildup John!

[Lil'John]

Originally Posted by LC_Hamma

35s
I assume you want this size in order to not trim the rear fenders?

No real reason for 35s... I could say it was to keep the pig lower I knew the rear fenders were close.

Originally Posted by LC_Hamma

SOA
If you can keep your COG low, it'll be *decent

I plan to go with a standard SOA unless it looks REALLY odd with 35s. Future plans are to sleeve the shackle through the frame and drop an inch or so. I think getting the shackle closer to 45 degrees will help travel a TON.

Originally Posted by LC_Hamma

Rear axle: Dodge dana 60 HD narrowed to 60"(lopped all of it off the driver side)
Don't you mean the pass. side? Did they press out the tube or sleeve the chopped side & reweld?

Meant pass sideNot enough coffee

On the axle shortening, it was done through cutting the spindle off somehow. It was done that way because when I got the axle bored out for 35 spline, the existing spindles on the housing were not the correct style for boring out(aka there would have been no meat left at the threaded end) So Sean at Rivercity Diff cut both spindles off and shortened the pass at the same time.

[Lil'John]

Forgot to give a status report in answering questionsI think I need a permanent coffee IV

My project has been put on temporary FC fab hold while Don does some work on rigs around the shop... D'Animal's little beast included Work should resume on my rig shortly after Surf and Turf.

But that doesn't mean the work stops on my 55... Don has graciously allowed me to lower the collective IQ at the shop so I can get some of the misc junk done Grinder bitch here I come

Currently on my list to do down there:

• Clean/paint firewall and fenders. It is official, Durabak isn't worth a damn. It just peeled off... glad it isn't the first $100 I've flushed on this project
• Replace the rotors on the Cruiser axle and replace the hub faces in prep for selling the front axle
• Bolt in the front 60 housing and start assembly... maybe cut off the front shackle hangers in prep of doing a through the frame hanger.
• Bolt the windshield wiper motor back in and wire it in as stock. I hope to figure out how to integrate it into the Chevy steering coluum
• Get the rear window working. I need to adjust the wiring a little bit and then figure out why it isn't dropping
• Plug all the rear wiring in
• Maybe cut the rear spring shackle hanger in prep of doing a through the frame hanger.

I'm also working on swapping my tcases and adapter from the old project to the new. I'm doing this for two reasons: the old one appears to be clocked down a little bit and I need to sell one of the setups so I'd rather sell the newest. This means I need to unbolt two of these suckers and assemble it one more time The other benefit I get from this swap is a "stronger" tcase. The new case has the "ribbed" nose cone AND the fine spline coupler for the hi/low shifter(I'll snap picture later)

I've got my D60s getting regeared at the shop next door to Don's right now. I think the 55 will be happier with 4.88s with the 35" tires rather than the 3.54 gears the D60s have now The bad news is I am going to use ring gear spacers because the ARB's in there are for 3.54 to 4.10 gears. I've heard mixed reports on the spacers but I think with my wheeling/driving style, I should be okay. I should have em back by the end of this week

The bad news is the front hubs are the external style so I'm "stuck" with 35 spline drive flanges

I'll be using some BTF hi steer arms and I've already got the tierod and drag link made. Hopefully the link will work with the FJ55 setup... but it should since both the 55 and the 40 had scout steering

I'm currently trying to figure out the best solution for getting a mechanical axle mounted emergency brake. I've got a set of El Dorado calipers but I'm still not convinced that is the right route to go. I'm also not convinced that all the reports of them not working are not the result of them being improperly setup.

I already know that people are going to say "just line lock it". If this was a trail only rig, I'd almost consider that route. But this is being setup as a daily driver and I am set on having a mechanical emergency brake. I know the cruiser drum brake works when adjusted properly... but I'm not thrilled with relying upon something not on the ground. I'm also not sure my VSS setup will work with the drum backing plate.

It definately looks like the NV4500 shifter is going to prevent me from running the stock heater/AC combo I will know for sure once Don gets the tranny cover built up but I'd say it is a no go. Now I need to scratch my head on who makes a low profile heater/AC combo that will work with the vacuum shift panel on the dash

And for a teaser picture, I give you a bed full of axles and two NP203 setups

[Lil'John]

Here are some pictures of how it sits.

First picture shows the motor and how much the Vortec cover would have stuck out. Current plan is to remove one bracket at the back of the engine, cut out the front mounting hole on the cover to graft a piece of plastic, trim the cover where needed, then bolt it on.

Second picture shows radiator mounting and fan clearance. I am planning to get the stock Vortec belt routing sticker to put on the mounting bracket.

Last picture shows how offset the engine will be. I was initially VERY concerned about steering box clearance and steering shaft clearance. It also shows the nice Flaming river joints and slip shaft.

[Lil'John]

And yet more pictures.

First picture shows my concern over steering clearances was unfounded even with the offset of the engine that way. It also shows my bigger concern over my hooker header clearance was VERY unfounded. I had concerns over the header clearing the steering stuff as well as the header clearing the frame.

Second picture shows bellpan clearance. The transfercase doesn't sit level and could have actually ended up with perfectly flat. However, I've heard issues with bleeding the cooling system if the engine was pefectly flat. The other slight concern is "strength" of a flat pan... by angling the mounts downward, it creates a hump for strength.

Third picture shows the inside with the drivetrain. You can see how tight it is in the front. You can also see the clocking on the tcase. The tcase will be clocked down. I will also being pulling the vacuum pod off(well, new tcase won't be using it)

[Lil'John]

Last set of pictures.

First picture shows the steering column mounted. Looks like it was born there I just need to figure what to do with the column shift lever

Second picture shows how Don fabbed up something. You can see the stock FJ55 firewall bucket. Don opened up the hole and welded a flat plate to the column. You can also see how deep the FJ55 dash compared to the FJ40 is based upon the firewall mount. On my FJ40 project, the dash holes were basically at the stock Chevy bracket... not the 4" or so back.

Last picture shows the steering box and shock mount. The shock mount is the standard F150 shock mount. Don drilled out the steering box mounting holes to fit 1/2" bolts. The frame is boxed as shown inside and out on both driver and passenger sides The steering box is spaced off the frame 3/4" and sleeved through the frame. The plating should help with steering box induced frame twist

Not visible in any of the pictures is the brace from the driverside frame to the front crossmember to further control frame twist caused by the steering box. It is probably overkill with the hydro assist but I like it

[Lil'John]

I spent a few hours yesterday cleaning the durabak off the firewall and painting it with plain gloss white. Looks MUCH better

I also swapped adapters for the NP203 and transfer cases. New cruiser now has a later model one piece. It has the ribbed output housing as well as the fine spline main shaft I had em both sitting in the 40 project and never realized it

I've got a picture of the steering brace. Don should be doing a little finish trimming around the box. I'll see if I can get a good shot of radiator mount and where the brace goes... in huffing 4 coats of paint, it slipped my mind

Friday I'm going back to the shop to hang the Dana60 front and do some assembly on it. I will probably also pull the battery tray to fix the studs as well as strip the durabak off the pass fender so I can paint it. I should also get around to cutting the rear reflector area off another pig for mine

Monday should get some rims and tires on the Dana 60. Now if I can just find someone who wants the sequoia wheels/tires, front axle, rear ARB, and new NP203 adapter

[Pighead]

So, Pighead was in Stockton this morning, finishing the stripping on that rusty red '70 at the shop. Thought I had all the remaining goodstuff off, we even had it loaded on the trailer to go to the crusher. Then I saw the little plastic pull-tab on the gas tank filler door... and I sez to myself..."Pighead, wasn't there a post a long time ago about someone needing that plastic pull-tab for a gas filler door?"
"Yup", I said to myself. "But who?" It took me a minute. But I did recall that it was Lil' John that needed that bit. So I mentioned it to Georg, who then tried to rip the entire door off with his bare hands. He made a good effort and bent the hell out of that gas filler door before Don mentioned that they had a shop full of tools. So while they went inside to discuss whether to bring out the sawzall or the portaband, I pulled out my leatherman and unbolted the little plastic pulltab from the gas filler door. I then strolled back inside and installed it on your rig. Now, I just put it on finger-tight, as you will, no doubt, want to clean it up a bit. It has some red overspray on it (I think that red/white Pig was originally Blue/white). You'll probably want new washers and a new nut and some anti-seize on the threads, but it is in place and your Pig is that much closer to being done.
And Pighead helped.

[Lil'John]

I saw that nice gas door pull handle this morning I was thinking to myself last week I should grab it but forgot Thank you greg

But at least I got the rear corner I needed... maybe

I dropped off a set of tires and rims to go with the Dana 60s this morning.

I'm hoping to get some time to play with the front axle this thurs. Yank the old, drop in the Dana 60

Tomorrow, I get to pick up axle shafts for the FJ80 full float. At least they ended up being cheaper than I thought

After surf and turf, we should be getting around to dropping the engine back in again and get to the wiring. This will get Don setup for doing the interior sheetmetal and seat mounts

Onto the pictures:

First picture shows the new and improved cleaned firewall. No more durabak... just plain old rustoleum. Notice the missing heater holes, the missing AC holes, and the closed up 4wd hole

Second picture is the new rim with my 20-30% procomp rollers. Not QUITE a blingy as the sequoia rims. But still nice and plain. I just don't care for the double bumps in between each spoke Looks like I'll be okay up front with 35s.

Last picture is the new rim in the back. It isn't quite centered so I think it'll be close in the back.

[Lil'John]

Spent a nice solid day and did the one day spring over Okay, so I cheated a little bit:

• Front axle was already set up for cruiser front end. Pinion is NOT rotated so no cut and turn. Still need to do brakes, one ubolt hanger, and ARB line.
• Rear axle is just bolted in. Spent a bunch of time cutting some old brackets off and cleaning it up. So basically, it needs everything done on it... welding perches included. But I need to wait for the drivetrain to be installed so I can match up the pinion and tcase flanged

But, it is sitting on the new 35 inch tires and looks sexy Unfortunately, I left the camera down in Stockton so no pictures tonight

I'm still up in the air on how to do disc brakes with mechanical emergency brake in the back. I've got the El Dorado calipers in hand but need brackets for them. But I am giving some thoughts to the brakes out of a E350 van. I am NOT considering line locks.

Don spent the day working on the front bumper/winch system. Should end up nice, clean, and not a jungle gym The "bad" is it will end up being wider than the stock front bumper by 2-3 inches But, it has a shell including the extensions beyond the frame rails that will be removable for the trail Makes no sense I know but pictures will make it worth 1000 of my words

Next thing on my list to do is finish up the engine bay(aka rip more durabak off and paint it white) then drop the engine in with Georg over seeing that. While that is being done, hopefully Don will be cutting rockers up next. He's got the steel cut and capped ready to go.

[Lil'John]

Here are a couple of quick pictures of previous work.

First is the engine cradle showing where we had to cut some out to clear the diff when I was going to go spring under

Second shows one of the radiator support brackets as well as the steering brace.