[Lil'John]

Originally Posted by n2666s

John; where did you source your filler hose?; did you get yours with an angle or straight? TIA;

Lou

It was straight "coiled" hose I got from Napa here in Sacramento(Power Inn one) They got a bunch left since I took 2 foot only

[n2666s]

thanks John for the info.......hmmm, I see a visit to NAPA tomorrow.........;

Lou

[Lil'John]

Well, I got some new tires(BFG KM2s in the 245/70r17 size) and so far, fairly happy with them. The rear sits a little odd and I'm hoping that the FJ80 rear axle will kick the tires out a bit.

I got busy with the wiring again and pulled more wires The harness is looking pretty small now But I did run into an unknown wire. At the voltage regulator, I have a yellow/black that I don't know where it goes. It is not in my FSM or the Hayes manual As soon as I get rid of the old tires, I'm going to be pulling a blue wire for trailer brakes Still having issues getting the rear window down. Now it appears to be a window issue and not an electric issue

I've got two out of four hood rubber bumpers replaced. Still a factory available item as part number 53349-90351. Just having the front two replaced really tightened up the hood.

Got another look at the SOR windshield washer bottle. It works with the factory plug/wiring Now I just need to figure out how the plumbing works on it

I also finally got around to doing the 6AN fuel lines. It works MUCH better with a vise. I popped them together in nothing flat without killing my fingers I had to do a little grinding on the fuel pump nipples so the hose would slide over

I pulled the stock turn signals in favor of some offroad lights because I'm going with the early grill with integrated signals. Unfortunately, I'm not real happy with the Hella lights. It would be nice if they had wiring down the mounting post.

Onto the pictures:
First, here is the rear of the truck with the new rims/tires. Looks odd with no center caps but not worth spending money on caps I'm going to pull for FF shortly. Still giving serious thoughts to getting door handles, door locks, and light rings powder coated black instead of the chrome they are now

Second, here is the front of the truck with the new rims/tires. Barely noticeable are the powder coated hub faces from DanS HJ-45. A little red glow in a sea of black You can also see the black vents and the Hella lights. Bad news is the missing paint that was under the front turn signals

Last picture, here is the newly powdercoated grill. I'm having a little issue with headlight ring alignment but I'm really liking the look. I just need to figure out how to do the Toyota on it: silver, white, or nebula green

[Lil'John]

Originally Posted by cruiserbrett

If you have to make brake hardlines, I suggest buying the mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. It is my favorite tool!!! nothing funnier than seeing suckers try to make the cheapo napa double flaring tool work at the end of a long day. It is nearly foolproof with the mastercool tool... I know its expensive, but by the time I got one, I had spent over $140 in flare tools that just never worked correctly. Plus it does lots of other flaring, fuel lines, bubble flares, etc...

Mastercool Universal Hydraulic Flaring Tool

I picked up one of these and OMG it is well worth the money if more than one rig is being done.

It does double flares as well as the funky bubble flare Good for fuel line and brake lines

Can't wait to finish off my brake lines tomorrow now that I got 3/16" coiled hose.

I decided not to play with the stock alternator and wiring. Hope the new battery will handle getting to DMV and then down to Stockton Glad I'll have the backup fully charged Optima hanging around and will go for the "jumper start to fire up" theory

I'll also be running more of the fuel line. Unfortunately, I need a "good" bender for the 5/16" tubing for the tank hose. I tried "hand" bending it and it kinked more than bent

Still debating how to run the fuel pump wiring... guess I need to see how the engine wiring is before I run it

Figured out the SOR bottle... turns out the nipple at the bottom of the bottle goes to the axial nipple on the motor and the radial nipple goes to the sprayer nozzle. I'll snap picture tomorrow.

[cruiserbrett]

Glad you like the flaring tool! It's pricey, but one of those tools that you wonder why you tried to make do, or were even able to make do without.

i got a nice 1/4" - 5/16" - 3/8" tubing bender from napa IIRC. the cheapo ones that have a wheel and narrow stamped metal tubing stop dont work well if you need to flare right near the bend since I had them sorta crimp the tubing where the narrow stamped metal hold the tube at the start of the bend. then it doesnt flare worth a shit.

Find one with a nice wide support that holds the tube by the start of the bend. hard to describe, but imagine the fixed shoe of a tubing bender that was too narrow... kinda crimps the fixed end of the tube when you start rotating the moving shoe of the bender around the radius'ed die???

Also, on the voltage regulator wiring, I dont recall a yellow with black there??? thats a color code normally reserved for oil pressure sender wiring?

[rsbcruiser]

Lil"John, I like the idea of moving the front turn sigs and replacing with driving lights. Wondering if the hella setup can be aimed up and down? Looks as though pointing in to out is a cinch. Are the fixtures stonger, more durable than the turn signals? I'd be very curious to hear how those work for you. I am having the same problem you are having with the headlight rings. Paint will not stick. I wonder if there is an answer to that problem.

[Lil'John]

Originally Posted by cruiserbrett

i got a nice 1/4" - 5/16" - 3/8" tubing bender from napa IIRC. the cheapo ones that have a wheel and narrow stamped metal tubing stop dont work well if you need to flare right near the bend since I had them sorta crimp the tubing where the narrow stamped metal hold the tube at the start of the bend. then it doesnt flare worth a ****.

Find one with a nice wide support that holds the tube by the start of the bend. hard to describe, but imagine the fixed shoe of a tubing bender that was too narrow... kinda crimps the fixed end of the tube when you start rotating the moving shoe of the bender around the radius'ed die???

Also, on the voltage regulator wiring, I dont recall a yellow with black there??? thats a color code normally reserved for oil pressure sender wiring?

I think I've got one of those styles... down in Gilroy and not next to the cruiser The problem I had with the 5/16" tubing is that was VERY thick tubing. Somehow I seem to get those all the time

Originally Posted by rsbcruiser

Lil"John, I like the idea of moving the front turn sigs and replacing with driving lights. Wondering if the hella setup can be aimed up and down? Looks as though pointing in to out is a cinch. Are the fixtures stonger, more durable than the turn signals? I'd be very curious to hear how those work for you. I am having the same problem you are having with the headlight rings. Paint will not stick. I wonder if there is an answer to that problem.

On the Hella lights I got, they seem to be a "cheap" set. The light housing is plastic The fender bracket is metal. There is a lot of adjustment up. It is as far down as it gets because of the covers If I can figure out a drilled post setup and replace the fender bracket with a taller set, I'd be fairly happy with the setup.

With the headlight rings, they were stripped to bare metal before powder coating. Maybe that is the same setup for paint. I know with any painting, I usually strip to bare metal, primer it, and then paint it in about 2-3 coats. If bare metal is not an option, maybe scuff the heck out of the existing paint

[Lil'John]

On the flare tool, it is so easy even I can't screw it up I'm 4 for 4 on perfect flares with some VERY thick 3/16" brake tubing. On the cheapy type flaring tools, I couldn't do that.

It is very nice to use. Only bitch about it is the trouble with getting the tube lined up. Getting the tube lined doubles the time to make a flare for me

[Lil'John]

Another day... another delay This build is going like moonshine... anything BUT smooth

Latest delay is the rebuild on the tranny. Turns out the diesel version of the NV4500 has a larger bolt pattern on the input bearing retainer(aka what the throwout bearing rides on) Net result: throw away a nice powder coated case, buy a new case, then get new case powder coated Currently waiting on new case to get here.

So, with the new case needing powder coating, I'm starting yet another load of stuff to get nailed: vacuum shifter parts(cable, interior nuts, both pods in engine bay), mirrors, door handles, door locks(if they can do them), light rings(marker, reverse, tail, and license), and anything else that doesn't move fast enough

But on the bright side of things, I've gotten more brake work done. I replaced both firewall lines. Next thing there is the two axle lines and a short frame line. I'm loving the new flaring tool

I also found out the Toyota engineers are tricky SOB's. Check out the second picture for the firewall mounted thick hose to brake hose fitting. Turns out it is also a check valve. Hopefully I can find a nice square cut oring to refurb it.

Onto the pictures:
First picture shows the master with new brake lines. The picture is a little deceiving... the lines actually go upward at the first bend and not straight back as it appears. You can also see the new windshield washer bottle. It does sit a little loose on the new bracket

Second picture is that cool conversion check valve for the vacuum shifter. The little nub looking thing is rubber.

Last picture shows the washer bottle. The outlet going to the left goes to the bottom of the washer bottle. Still fairly happy with it. It uses the stock washer electrical connector

[Lil'John]

Getting closer to getting it moving for going to Stockton for real work.

Brakelines are almost done. Shortside of front axle needs to be bent.

Fuel lines are almost done. Couple misc lines to be made. Couple of fittings to be put on.

I'm still waiting for the transmission case to be powder coated so my transmission guy can rebuild it.

I'm also trying to track down an engine still. Largely up in the air on whether to do the drive by wire or not. I'm leaning toward the drive by wire because they are newer and should have less mileage.

Got a good start on the rear tcase crossmember bracket. But I pulled an Advance Adapters: I buried the fill plug I also need to do a little trimming on it(see picture) The picture shows my novel approach. I used a 2" pipe coupler for the cover and will use a 2" pipe plug to close it up. This allows me to leave the bracket permanently mounted and be able to pull the tcase if needed. Large angle iron will be foot of the bracket.

First picture shows the NP203 with FJ tcase attached. It also shows the bracket sort of attached. I will be using studs to affix it. The two black circles need to be cut out. The angle iron will be cut to length and welded at the proper place during drivetrain installation.

Second picture shows the engine bay vacuum transfercase rebuild kit. First one I got was missing one of the little piston clips(barely visible next to the black spring in the lower right corner) Also missing from both which apparently is a Toyota issue is one of the black springs. The one I disassembled had two of them. Both kits only come with one

[Lil'John]

Got a little progress to report. Been a little slow due to slow powder coater again Tranny still waiting on the case from the powder coater

I finally finished up almost all my steering parts with a pitman arm I picked up this weekend. Pulled from a fullsize Cherokee. It has a minimal drop to it. Not sure if a flat one like on my 40 will work for the 55. Only thing missing from steering is lines and ford shock towers

I've got two "fab" items mostly finished up:

1. I've fixed the holes in the tail mounted crossmember as well as welded it up. I dare say but galvy welds VERY poorly
2. I've finished up the NP203 idler shaft "holder"... aka the cut up stock adapter. Changed plans from making it perfectly round. A little beyond my tooling capacity... or my patience

Pictures of the two will be coming up shortly.

Also slow progress due to a slight brake line issue. May have to get another angle fitting

And of course, the main reason things have been going slow is an out of town trip so I could pick up a part for drivetrain version 2.0. It is a secret until a picture tomorrow... needless to say, more balls than brains I will probably have to start looking into an Orion HD or D18 tcase to finish up v2.0 But I got a hell of a deal on it depending upon how much I have to "fix" of it

[Lil'John]

Haven't been able to dig through the Lil'John parts warehouse to find the idle holder so no pictures of that. I think that is a hint of too much stuff around the house

I got the temp fuel line hooked up and the EFI lines hooked up. Still need to make up lines to go from the hard lines to motor. Woohoo almost ready to fire it up... again

Still screwing with the front brake lines. Might have a stripped fitting.

As a backup to getting around, I purchased and installed a tow bar. I know my luck and odds are I won't make it the 5 miles to DMV much less 30-40 down to stockton

I'm having a hell of a time rebuilding the vacuum pod for the tcase. There is supposed to be a cloth "band" inside it but I can't get the sucker to lay down flat. Which keeps that part from getting finished up

I also learned that it makes a difference where the chain for the spare tire carrier comes out Needless to say I got the wrong way.

I got my Long's hub gears for the front axle and drive flanges for the rear. Next step is up to RCD to get the shafts ordered for the rear axle

I've also got headers ordered up for the engine. Although I still don't have the engine yet

Onto the pictures(only two) but one is a good one
First picture is the rear crossmember bracket for the tcase is almost finished form. Don at FC Fab will finish it up for mounting as he sees fit. I got a nice access hole for the filler and a clearance grove for the idler shaft.

Last picture would be the "secret" weapon of mass cruiser parts destruction Yup, that would be a super charger by Whipple. I got a hell of a steal on it so I just couldn't resist. Well, maybe. Depends upon the extra stuff

I will be waiting 6 months to a year before it gets installed... basically, I will install it shortly after the warranty on the engine ends. Of course, this means that I will definitely be upgrading to an orion if not the HD version.

[cruiserbrett]

on the vacuum pod, are you talking about the cork C shape seal? use a little weatherstrip adhesive and some tape to get it to stay in place. let it set up and then continue assembly. I rebuilt a few and they are a pain. Last two times I bought rebuild kits, I didnt even get 1 spring let alone the required two, so obvously they are done on a friday afternoon by the fo0lks that were late to work and for punishment get to stay late....

I have priorities like you, super charger before the engine!!! I almost bought a 14bt toyota diesel off ebay for a good price for a 76 fj55 project that wont likely be for years...

[Lil'John]

Brett, the piece I'm talking about is#84 in the following picture:


It is not cork but felt I believe. It just isn't sitting down to where I can get the shift rod by it... the shift rod that has the shift fork on it.

On the Whipple, it was one of those opportunity buys. It was on my list sort of and then this one fell in my lap

[landcrusher909]

John I have been trying to PM you have you been getting them ? let me know when you need the harness and I will work on getting the seat Thanks

[Lil'John]

Originally Posted by landcrusher909

John I have been trying to PM you have you been getting them ? let me know when you need the harness and I will work on getting the seat Thanks

Last one I got was about two weeks ago. Thought I had replied to it. Sent another right now.

[landcrusher909]

Got it Thanks

[Lil'John]

Some more notable work done:
I got the steering column keyed up. So between that and the pitman arm I got a couple days ago, I am all set for a PS conversion

I got some more nuts and bolts for my transfercase. This gets me studs for all the items on it except the PTO cover and shifter cover. Hopefully this takes care of the snout snapping issue and adds a little strength to the top cover/strength plate Still short a couple of washers for full assemble of the LC tcase and waiting for the powder coater to finish up his job so I can get the side cover for the NP203. Otherwise basically finished on that front.

Obviously, nothing to report on the transmission other than the powder coater is killing anything getting done on that

And to treat the cruiser right, I got it a pair of hookers Okay, I got it a set of Hooker headers. I had heard bad things about the speedway headers for the LSx engines. And my experience with the Sanderson Caddy 500 steered me away from them(Poorly made would be a nice way of saying it ) The only bad thing is they are shorties... which according to the Fbody and truck swapers are not as good as long tube headers.

With the almost guarantee of going to an Orion HD, I'm doubting I will be able to use the vacuum shifting I'll probably go with a cable shift on it now and use the stock hi/low knob

Still waiting on the engine. I'm trying to trip link with the transmission and powder coater for picking it up/out. I'm also waiting from the company who will flash my computer for some more info so I can pick the right one to go with the charger

[Cruiserdrew]

I've been seeing that thing sit for weeks and want to see some action! If you need help, tools or welder, call me (PM here) and I'll be glad to help. My house is about 5 minutes from you.

BTW-I saw a great looking 55, almost as nice as yours, on Fulton Ave this Sunday, so someone else with a 55 lives pretty close.

[Lil'John]

Drew,
Most of the work right now is unseen stuff: fuel line(done), brake line(stripped out fitting on order), and electrical (loads of fun )

Also a bunch of work inside the apartment(aka tcases assembly... shhhh) as well as parts collecting.

Of course, my own screwing around rather than just towing has bumped me to a much later shop time... so that hurts a bunch. No one's fault but my own on that bad planning

But onto the somewhat update

My Haneline 3n1 gauges arrived finally(2 month after ordering ) They are well worth the wait(see picture). Pretty complete system. Price is on par with ordering 6 separate gauges from Autometer (~$450) The theory is these will bolt in place of the stock 55 gauges with a little minor work to the gauge panel.

The only snaffu that would effect stock people is the fuel gauge sending unit and that was expected.(see second picture) Basically, the sending unit they send doesn't have the right pattern. A simple drill out to 3/8" at the red circle and we've got a new unit. Just need to make sure to ground the tank to the body...I'll probably forget

The other snaffu that was a bit unexpected is the speedometer sending unit. It is supposed to be an 8k pulse per minute unit. My problem is the engine swap and the PCM required 100k pulse per minute signal By all appearances, I may be able to use my Jet DST tuner to fix that issue... but I'm not holding my breath on it being THAT easy

Onto the other stuff getting done on the cruiser:
I've got a stripped out brake fitting(one of the elbow fitting that mount to the frame rail) Got one on order from SOR Otherwise, brakes are all plumbed up and waiting to get bled.

Powdercoater decided to get busy so no transmission work done. Also no marker light, mirrors, tcase shifter stuff, etc done.

Powdercoater also hosed me on my Warn 8274. Decided to sandblast the inside of the upper housing with a "non serviceable" gear cluster. In trying to clean out the gear cluster bearing, the solvent ate the powder coating. Go figure, the same solvent didn't do a thing to the drum but ate the upper housing End result on this was pulling apart the upper housing to find a broken bearing that Warn doesn't sell separately. I'm going to haul the housing to a different powdercoater to get it recoated then I'm sending all the bits and pieces to Warn to see if they can do a thing with it

I'm yanking the front bench for Cruiserguy tomorrow. Still trying to track down a reasonably priced 99 Tacoma style 60/40 bench seat. I should be partially fabbing some brackets for it this weekend.

I got a reply from Whipple on that mess. They want an arm and leg to convert what I've got to work with a 6.0L. Almost tempting to go with a 5.3L that it was made for. But not THAT tempting. I'm waiting to hear back from Nelson Tuning to see what if anything I would need from the Whipple kit

I did get a little bit of a deal though. I picked up the second ARB for the cruiser. "Bad news" is it is an older unit RD08 for a semi floater. I'll get it stuffed into the FJ80 rear third I've got hanging around because the pinion bearing is shot. So, while I paid for a complete rear axle with 80% of a DB conversion, the axle housing is junk, the third member housing is junk(lots of gouging), and the rotors had some good stripes What I was left with is a good ARB unit, a pair of DB brackets, and a pair of axle shafts. Overall, still a steal

Onto the pictures:
First one shows the Haneline gauges and what they include. You can see:

• the fuel sender unit(two pieces in front)
• oil and water senders (pieces left and right of fuel pump)
• the VSS (mid and left of picture)
• the wiring of the gauges
• the gauges themselves

The wiring as you can see is VERY clean with connectors. I don't show the short stubs of wiring they include... but you do need your own wiring to finish the install of these. Also of note because of how different it is: see the little red push button wiring? That is the trip reset. Not sure where to install that.

Second picture shows the Haneline and Toyota fuel sending units. Well, the cap of the Toyota sending unit. The part circled in red is where the original wiring came out. I am drilling a 3/8" hole through that to mount the Haneline sending unit stuff. On the backside, I need to finish grinding down the old sending unit junk.

[DesertLake]

Originally Posted by Lil'John

First one shows the Haneline gauges and what they include...

Want.

[Lil'John]

Originally Posted by DesertLake

Want.

I blame Luke111 for getting me zoned in on the gauges. Bastard

Small update of little substance.

It looks like I get my transmission case from the powder coater tomorrow. Good thing they can call the day I head out of town. I'll get the case to the shop for a rebuild. Hopefully he can have a quick turn around on it... so I can store it in addition to all the other parts

I got my shocks in hand. A set of Bilstien 5125s on all corners. The front is going with Ford shock towers(or similar style) and so I got eyes on both ends of the front shocks instead of the stock post style.

I got to play with one of the harbor freight bench top bead blasters. Overall, it is probably worth the $80ish I paid. My compressor seems to barely keep up It does work but it couldn't seem to knock off the paint on a replacement door hinge. It has a problem doing "low" grit media... like 24 grit walnut. End result, I threw out a box of walnut media It also leaks around the top... so not real clean. The suction tube/bottom of the cabinet have issues being "self sustaining". So every once in a while, I need to stop and pound sand There is also an issue with the suction hose at the gun... gets kinked real easy. Still worked well for all the misc junk I blasted

I also yanked the front bench so Georg could haul it down south. Now onto finding a Taco bench seat and making a mount.

Pictures:
First picture is the vacuum hooks I cleaned up and painted. That bead blaster helped clean those up quickly

Second picture is under the driveside of the bench. What the heck am I missing under there? I'll be cleaning and primering it up shortly.

Last picture is under the passenger of the bench. What is missing under there?

[cruiserbrett]

the oem tool bag went in between the four triangle brackets on pass side and the strap went side to side.

On the drivers side the bracket is for the factory jack.

[Lil'John]

Originally Posted by cruiserbrett

the oem tool bag went in between the four triangle brackets on pass side and the strap went side to side.

What is the little "L" shaped bracket kind of up and to the left of the upper most triangle bracket?

So the strap is actually a two parter of which I have only the one piece?

Originally Posted by cruiserbrett

On the drivers side the bracket is for the factory jack.

What is the "L" shaped bracket kind of right and down of the larger jack bracket? Is it just part of the jack securing system?

I'm waiting to see how hacked up the floor is gonna be with the new drive train before I decide how much of the floor stuff I need to get

I'm debating how or if I can stuff a hi lift under the front bench.

[cruiserbrett]

the two "L" shaped brackets with the small holes in them are for bench seat springs. IIRC they help pull the seat forward when you are adjusting it.

[Lil'John]

Slight update thanks to a semi successful swap meet find: two tcase rear bearing housings.

Between that and my transmission guy giving me a 40 tooth reluctor ring(from 4l60 I believe), I have a game plan.

Short version without the attached picture:

• bore stock reluctor ring to fit FJ40 tailshaft
• replace stock FJ40 speedo drive with machined reluctor ring
• modify tailhousing to use stock Chevy VSS

Using the below picture, you can see how I plan to modify the tailhousing:

• Cut housing at red mark
• Ensure straight hole through
• Weld flat metal to replace red mark
• Weld a sleeve to the flat metal above(blue box)
• Tap sleeve to use set screws to hold VSS
• Remove speedo drive bump (not marked but visible in middle left)

The downside of this approach is one can NOT run a mechanical speedo. Not an issue for me since I've got the Haneline ones. Also of interest is the fact that Vortec PCM has a speedo output. So, I should be able to go from the PCM to my speedo

Who knows, I might actually get lucky and have this work

[Lil'John]

Little update.

I've got the NV4500 all set and waiting to go. In the end, I basically ended up buying two NV4500s to get this one. First it was the nice 1 week dunk in water which trashed all the gears and the shift top Then it was the case not being compatible so it was two cases powdercoated

I've got my tcases all set except for shift stuff. I think I need the over version of the hi low shifter for the lc tcase. Lots of misc problems run into on that. From lots of funky hybrid bearings/gaskets/pieces to make a 3 speed lc tcase work as a 4 speed would to having problems with disassembly, I ran the gambit on this. LOTS of thanks to Georg at Valley Hybrids for his parts helps on this.

I'm firmly stuck into doing the vacuum shift now. LOTS of work done there. Cleaned and painted a bunch of it. Got a LOT of it powder coated. Also rebuilt all the parts. Also had my powder coater lose a piece.

I've also got most of my marker lights on with new gaskets. As they say, the devils in the details. A bunch of extra cash spent here for powder coated rings and stainless button head bolts. Also bought new reverse lights

I've got several pictures but will be making several posts for them

[Lil'John]

Here we have three drivetrain related pictures.

First picture shows the NV4500 in almost all its glory. It is going to have the PTO bolts replaced with stainless button heads. And the shifter needs to be cleaned up. For some reason, it made quite a stir a the PMC swap meet My poor gf had to beat people away with a stick

Second picture shows the NP203 and LC tcase assembly. The vacuum shifter isn't bolted on yet... having an issue with 60mm long bolts being too long and 50mm being too short. May have to throw in the towel and use studs as I did for the front output, rear output, and top housing Metric studs were a pretty penny I also need to figure out shifting for the hi/low for both LC tcase and NP203. Probably going to end up being transmission cables.

Last picture shows the main unit of the vacuum shift pod that mounts to the firewall. Yup... powdercoated Also completely rebuilt. The rebuild kit for this is still available from Toyota... the bad news is the kit doesn't include two of the looped springs... fortunately, my first package from SOR was missing a piece so I got a second one from them free and was able to have two springs

[Lil'John]

Here we have one more picture of vacuum shift related junk and two of the rear marker light.

First picture shows the vent cap from the shift unit. Second picture is the hardline to softline bracket. Yup, fully powder coated Should look sexy on the firewall once the firewall is cleaned up

Second picture shows the rear marker light. That is a new bezel that is powdered black, a new gasket, button head screws, and a cleaned up lens. The lens is good from far but far from good but I wasn't willing to spring for new ones.

Third picture shows the rear marker light but shows off the angle of the gasket. It was a hair off the original ones I pulled off there. But I'd say close enough.

Oh, and in both pictures, that is shirt lint on the gaskets

Now the funky business on the gasket used. It is actually a Toyota part I got through SOR. It is NOT for an FJ55. IT is the gasket for an FJ40 front marker light. And the bezels were all from the marker lights.

The FJ40 rear marker light gaskets can be used on the FRONT of an FJ55(pictures of this next post)

So if one was trying to do a psuedo resto, there is part of the puzzle.

Now if we could just get the tail lamp body gaskets repro'd, I'd be LOVING life

[Lil'John]

Last batch of pictures.

First we have the reverse lights. These were new items from SOR. Came with new gaskets. I got the chrome ring powdered You can see that the previous paint job was done with markers and such in place Now I need to get some touch up paint to hide some of those issues

Second picture shows the front marker light. Showing some places needing touch up. Lens was just a cleaned up item.

Last picture shows off the powder coated effect of the vent and marker light. It also shows off one of those details not yet hit... the emblems. Still up in the air on how to handle those. Might end up powdercoating them black also

And nope, not a HUGE chrome fan Still debating on the door handles inside and out along with the door locks

Again, keep in mind, "show and go". I want that PMC wagon plaque next year