1972 BDJ55-T Resto-Mod

[andrew.fletcher]

Couldn't help but jumping on with Rhino's designation. It’s a long read but I’ve got lots of ideas which means LOTS of questions. First, an intro of the current Pig is in order. It’s a 1972 3 speed, pretty much stock other than a Weber carb. 3sp, worn out clutch, beat up interior rust in the fenders and the drip rail (haven’t found out what’s under the paint yet). A few dents here and there but overall pretty clean. The future Pig is where I have lots of questions. I included my “build sheet” for the specifics but in a nutshell this will be the DD for the family hence the resto-mod. It will look like a Pig from the outside but will have an Isuzu diesel, auto, power everything. Any and all comments with what I want to do are much appreciated and needed. Any links to other threads to help me find out info would be great too. I’ve included some of the ones I’ve found so far

DRIVETRAIN
Engine: 1995 4BD2T
Transmission: 700r4
Transfer case: Split case from '85 FJ60
Engine/Transmission Adapters: http://www.isuzudieselswapper.com/
Transmission/Transfer Case Adapters: AA
Transmission/Transfer Shifter Types/Locations: ?
Driveshafts: Modified FJ60
Axles: FJ60

Brakes:
Power Brake Master Cylinder and Booster: FJ80
Front discs with 4 Runner calipers
Rear Drum

Springs:
SOR 2 1/2" HD kits with shocks
Outboards/shackles RuffStuffSpecialties.com - Off-Road Fabrication Parts
Greaseable spring and shackle pins

Steering: P/S box from FJ60 FJ60 Power Steering Conversion Parts - IH8MUD.com Forum
P/S pump gear driven on engine
Stabilizer: Rancho for now
Tilt Column: BJ60 if I can find one or FJ60.

ENGINE COMPARTMENT
Radiator Stock
A/C compressor
A/C condensor
Battery Location:

EXTERIOR

Bumpers: Front - ?
Rear - ?
Trailer Hitch – Bolt on Class III
Trailer Wiring –

INTERIOR
Panels: Rookie Intro of my new pig - Page 2 - IH8MUD.com Forum

Color not decided yet. This will be driven somewhat by colors of things that can’t be customized (ie. Seat belts)
Headliner: Stock
Dash: FJ55 Late Model
Gauges: Rookie Intro of my new pig - Page 3 - IH8MUD.com Forum

Roll cage: Integrated inside pillars (may have issues by dash and front pillar) Needs to include bolt holes for shoulder belts.
Exposed roll cage: [color=yellow]]Metaltech FJ55 Rollbar Kits - IH8MUD.com Forum
Front Seats: Bucket from a 2001 Silverado
Some other options
Silverado Seats into my Piggie (pics included) - IH8MUD.com Forum

Middle Seats: 50/50 Split from a '95 Pathfinder. Currently re-looking cutting stock seat into a 60/40.
Back Seats: 50/50 Split from 2007 Suburban. Has three integrated shoulder belts. They take up a lot of space in the back though. Still looking to lower floor 4-6” to rear crossmember to give space for feet. Will probably have to lift body 1” to help clear crossmember. There’s a good amount of space since the wheel wells are forward. Other possibilities are the IPOR seats (couldn’t find out the information on it though. I didn't go with the seats in the following links because they don't fold up
Iron Pig Off Road : Toyota 4WD experts
Little Passenger Seats - your source for custom SUV third row seating
3rd row seats | third row seats | seat | SUV seats | rear facing seats | child jump seats | aftermarket seating

Seat Belts: Shoulder type for all seats
Front: shoulder belts integrated
Middle: Bolt locations for belts in pillars or use stock locations above rear windows
Back: Integrated belts
Bolt locations in floor (Weld plate on underneath of body or maybe the rear body crossmember
Center Console – Partially driven by color of interior and width between seats. Would like to get a center console that also serves as a seat (An LC that seats 9!!!)

A/C
Front: FJ55 or FJ60 (have both factory types in garage)[/
Rear: Some type of mini-van or late model LC (mount inside rear quarter panel, issue with rollcage and vents going up to roof
Power windows: ?
Power door locks: ?
Tinted windows
Carpet
Stereo: 6-8 speakers (not sure of location)

MISC
Wiring: ?
Moulding/Weatherstripping: http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pi...rip-guide.html
Doors (including around glass)
Tailgate
Side glass
Body mounts
Tail lightsFJ55 Rubber - IH8MUD.com Forum

Soundproofing: Rookie Intro of my new pig - IH8MUD.com Forum

Door Hinges: 55 hinge pin repair - IH8MUD.com Forum

Fuel Tank:

WVO Conversion:

Rust Repair: Acid Dip versus Media Blast for resto? - IH8MUD.com Forum

[RHINO]

hey man get your own designation, i got dibs on BDJ55

shoot off questions as needed i'll do my best to answer them, went on my first real road trip, clocked over 200miles averaged 70MPH with jaunts up and over 80mph while netting 24MPG with 20% peanut oil in the tank

[andrew.fletcher]

Originally Posted by RHINO

hey man get your own designation, i got dibs on BDJ55

shoot off questions as needed i'll do my best to answer them, went on my first real road trip, clocked over 200miles averaged 70MPH with jaunts up and over 80mph while netting 24MPG with 20% peanut oil in the tank

That's some great numbers. I drove the Pig on the highway for the first time in quite awhile today. I kept waiting to see parts falling off when I hit 70mph. Most of the rubber is dried out on this thing so windows rattle, doors rattle, shocks, pretty much everything. Won't do that again.

I need to re-read through all the posts again to see who's using what for a TC. The one in there is freshly rebuilt and I've also got the one from the '60 but when I was reading Veggie 80's thread (the only other auto I've found) that's going in an '80 and I think he's using the stock case out of that.
Ideas/thoughts on transfer case options?

[RHINO]

keep in mind those numbers are with 4:10 gears and 37" tires.

i replied to your other thread but here it is again, for strength the 60 case will be good, but, for your application the fresh stocker will be just fine. keep in mind these two cases are identical the the way they function down the road, same kinda friction and stuff, so really for driving at speed neither is better, the only way to really get a better highway case would be to go centered rear output so the side gears dont turn at all when in 2WD.

P.S. doesnt the soot streak look right at home?

[andrew.fletcher]

That soot streak is SEXY!! Nothing like cruizer porn to start off my day!

I think I may go with the '60 case. I took off one of the plates to see if I needed any special tools to get the tranny off and it's so damn clean in there I'm thinking it may have also been rebuilt recently. They were a bit liberal with gasket sealer on the outside so I know it's been looked at in the not too distant past. Tough call though 'cause I have no history on it. One advantage of the '60 case is if I do sell this 10-12 years down the road I think that would be a plus vs. the stock case. What do you think?

[RHINO]

i concur. this is looking to be our own personal communication thread.

[Lucy_FJ55]

Originally Posted by RHINO

i concur. this is looking to be our own personal communication thread.

Hee, hee. I'm watching and learning...

[andrew.fletcher]

Originally Posted by Lucy_FJ55

Hee, hee. I'm watching and learning...

Hey there is someone else out there! I've been picking up quite a bit off of your thread too.

[andrew.fletcher]

Some engine questions. A 4BD1T or 2T is proving to be somewhat elusive, at least around CA. I tried ACME out in Stockton, Specialty in San Jose but no luck. Haven't found any other places between San Fran and LA yet that even carry them. So I may end up going with a 4BT and wanted to get an opinion.
I found a long block 4BT on eBay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...089502243&rd=1

If I go the stepvan route, I at least get the starter. What other parts have you guys been able to re-use?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...089502243&rd=1

[GreasedPiggy]

If you go the stepvan route, you most likely need the GM/Cheby version rather than Ford based. This give you pass side drop for the front shaft. Important to keep the mounts, they are liquid-filled and worth $$. Super important to isolate vibrations as the FJ55 is lighter than the 9,000lb breadvan. Also look for the intercooler, and that should be placed in front of the radiator.

You should be able to get almost a grand for the scrap aluminum from the body.

What axles do you plan using? I've seen stock Toy bend and get twisted during off-roading.

The 4bt is also heavier plus it is taller and requires SOA.

[andrew.fletcher]

I kind of forgot about that there were Ford and Chevy versions out there, thanks for reminding me. This isn't going to be a hardcore wheeler so I shouldn't have to worry about bending axles, hopefully. As far as lift goes, if I can get away with no more than 4" I'll be okay. Any more than that will be too much for the wife and kids to get in and out of everyday.

I also put the right link in for the stepvan.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...157124032&rd=1

[GreasedPiggy]

4" will get enough room. Problem with that van is the T19 which is Ford, so it is going to be a bit of work to make the driver's side drop switch to passenger side so you can use the stock axles. The Bell/Motor adapter is only going to support Ford transmissions.

The great thing is the intercooler. Plus you will probably be getting good used liquid motor mounts (less crazy shake at start/shut-off).

Stock axles are fine with moderate trailing. Tons of fun with the turbo diesel. I plan to get mine using veg oil or at least bio-diesel.

One of my buddies has not purchased "fuel" for four months!!! and he drives all over the place! ha hah.

Until then, I'm still acquiring the last of my major parts and am starting to rebuild.

Best of Luck!

[andrew.fletcher]

I like the thought of not purchasing fuel but I'll have to settle for someone else's wvo diesel. I'm gonna try and hold out for a 4BD1T. Going SOA is just one more cost that I hadn't figured in but since it's all getting torn apart anyways it may not be too much. The little things are starting to add up though and I haven't even bought any major components yet! This is worse than my MG engine conversion for the nickel/dime stuff. The engine and tranny were less than $900 but after all said and done, it cost just over $3000 and I did most of the labor myself!

[RHINO]

andrew in your application i wouldnt go SOA, even kept low its gonna be a 6" lift. i think with carefull placement and measuring a minial lift of 2.5" or so would be ok. and i think if you modify the oilpan you can do it w/o a lift. there are 3 BD engines on ebay right now, if shipping is ok i'll keep my eye open down here.

on a side note, what do you think about an MB engine/tranny? not as much grunt as a bigger direct inj. engine but i think it'd be a pretty good engine, certainly no shortage of them out there.

[andrew.fletcher]

Originally Posted by RHINO

andrew in your application i wouldnt go SOA, even kept low its gonna be a 6" lift. i think with carefull placement and measuring a minial lift of 2.5" or so would be ok. and i think if you modify the oilpan you can do it w/o a lift. there are 3 BD engines on ebay right now, if shipping is ok i'll keep my eye open down here.

I thought the SOA lifts were pretty high but didn't realize it was that much. That's why I'm trying to hold out for a BD. I just need to be more patient to find one close to me. Most of the shipping quotes have been 7-800. Add that to the cost of 3200 plus. I was hoping to get one for around 2500-3000 but maybe it can't be done.

Originally Posted by RHINO

on a side note, what do you think about an MB engine/tranny? not as much grunt as a bigger direct inj. engine but i think it'd be a pretty good engine, certainly no shortage of them out there.

There are MB engines everywhere, that's for sure. I read something awhile back about using one, was that you? I'm struggling enough to learn from what others have done with the BD and BT, I just don't have the knowledge to tread new water like that on my own. Do you know of any threads discussing that option?

[RHINO]

well its a real good option for you IMOP, its a very short stroke engine and wouldnt need any lift at all to clear the axle. its a little lower on torque at about 170 LB FT but about the same on HP at about 123-125. i think that would work out pretty good on near stock size tires (31" and under). the best engines from what ive seen are '82-85 300TD. the plus is keeping the MB auto, would make a good driver for the mrs., but the catch is the transcase. its not a big deal really, i was going to divorce it by having a divorce set-up made at a machine shop. there is a shop up in canada that makes divorce kits for minitruck cases and i bet they'll entertain making something for the cruiser, they are OTT industries.
there is a thread going sorta current about one of our mud members doing this exact thing to his FJ60,,,,, err lemme find the thread,,, here it is http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/55814-fuel-system-basics-converting-fj60-diesel.html

[andrew.fletcher]

I read through that thread and a couple others today and it is tempting. Like you said, good for what I'm looking to do with the truck. The only downside is divorcing the transfer case. It doesn't look like these guys have figured it out and I've been reading that OTT is not the most reliable right now. Their website has even been shut down so who knows. There is a wheeler specialty shop in town that's seems pretty knowledgeable, I'll hit them up on the divorced case for ideas. I wonder in the end though if money saved on the engine gets spent making adapters and such. Hell, the cheapest part of my Chevy in an MGB conversion was the engine!! My only concern is lower torque. I like the idea of easily cranking up the Isuzu when I'm towing but Andre' gave me the impression it isn't nearly as simple to do on the MB. Well, we'll see what Pick and Pull has this weekend. It's becoming a weekly thing as I try to find seats.

[RHINO]

maybe read up on the DANA 18 transfer case, not sure if they came divorced also but its prolly an easier case to divorce.

[andrew.fletcher]

For me at least, I would be going down a rabbit hole I won't come up from. You've definately got some great ideas and there seems to be a lot of partial completions out there along these lines. If I go with a Dana case that's another purchase vs. using the one off the '60. It just keeps adding up. I think I just need to suck it up, pay the cost for a 4BT or BD and go with a set-up that's shown to work and has adapters somewhat readily available.
This afternoon is seat search day at the dealerships. Trying to figure out what seats I like with integrated belts for the front and rear. What's posing a challenge right now is middle seats. I've got to take the bench out for some type of bucket or split bench seats so the rear seats are easily accessible. This brings up another challenge of lowering the floor in the back to accomodate the seats. I'm thinking of dropping the floor about 4" in the back which means I'll have to drop the fuel tank too. Reason for this is some more foot room and depending on the seat that fits, maybe a partial drop down storage. It all makes sense on my scratch paper but the first set of seats I got a Pick/Pull last weekend didn't fit for s***.

[RHINO]

3rd row seats,,,, hmmm thats gonna be unique. maybe just lower the floor under the 3rd row feet and leave the floor under the seat stock height, this should give you ample room to run a fuel tank from a S-15. and i hate to say it but TJ jeeps have pretty nice bucket seats in the way the passenger one folds and lifts forward to the dash for entry room as a second row option.

[andrew.fletcher]

I may just cut out enough for leg room. Two advantages of doing the whole back is carpet will be easier to install and it will give a little bit of storage in back. It will partially depend on what seats I go with for back there and also the 2nd row seats. Speaking of, in my measuring yesterday, I came to the conclusion most 2nd row seats are close to the same size. They were all 40-44 wide at the back (between the wheel wells) 20-22 deep. The only major difference was at the front part of the bottom cushion where they varied from 47-55. I looked at PT Cruiser, Volvo C70 and C50, Liberty, Xterra, Rav4, Outlander, HHR, Pontiac Azteck. I'll have to cut out the pillars to put anchors in for the shoulder belts. Believe it or not, the Volvo may be the best fit because it's a split seat so it folds like the bench that's in there and has integrated belts. I'd have to massage the metal a little in there but it may work. For 3rd seats I'm almost locked in on Denali or Envoy. I think the TrailBlazer 3rd seat will fit the best but it's hard to find one of those around here that have a 3rd seat (EXT model I think). What's good about all the Chevy seats is the integrated belt which is a must. I don't think I can put anchors in the back in a position that will work plus they'll I can get ones to match for the front. For the front, it's the Chevy ones with the integrated belt and instead of a console I'll put in one of those jump seat/consoles. All said and done, theoretically I could seat 9 but I think I'd have to put my wallet in the luggage rack because it would be so tight. Back to Pick and Pull today to see what's there for seats and also check their MB diesel selection (Still thinking on that one).

Oh, I may have found a 4BD in AZ, waiting to hear back from the guy. It's in a 95 GMC box truck. That should have a 4BD2T in it right?

[RHINO]

well it sounds like a lot of work, but it will be a unique soccer mom rig,,,,,
95 will be the BD2,,, lemme know if i can help ya with that, go look at it drive it listen to it whatever.
also, these guys are local to me and its where i bought my engine and get alot of NPR specific parts, doesnt look like they have any 4BD engines right now but ya never know. http://www.americantruck.com/

[andrew.fletcher]

Just did an update to the build sheet.
Drivetrain and seats decided on, now it's time to install!!