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Old 04-19-07, 06:18 AM   #121 (permalink)
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I cut the rockers out with a circular saw armed with a diamond tipped blade. Once the blade heated up, it was like a hot knife through butter.

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Old 04-19-07, 07:21 PM   #122 (permalink)
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I didn't get any work done today, and my wife says I get mean when I don't get to work on my Piggie, so I went outside to put together my seats to see what will be replacing my old front bench. I didn't install the cup holders on the Tuffy console yet.
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Old 04-20-07, 08:17 AM   #123 (permalink)
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=385457

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Old 04-20-07, 08:34 AM   #124 (permalink)
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Thanks for the link. I didn't know he had produced complete front fenders in the past. I can use those much more than the rear patches. I've run down a few leads around here for parts Pigs but none have worked out yet. I sent Ehsan an email.

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Old 04-21-07, 05:40 PM   #125 (permalink)
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I got a couple of hours in this afternoon. I went to a local 4x4 park this morning which was pretty fun even though I had to ride since my Piggie is still resting. My big accomplishment is I welded for the first time. MIG welding is not as difficult as I thought it would be.

Pic 1) I boxed off an area to weld where my neighbors would't 'look into the light.'
Pic 2) I first practiced on some scrap.
Pic 3) First weld burnt straight through. The second weld was a little better.
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Old 04-21-07, 05:45 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Pic 1) My practice canvas - the metal really heated up fast - I melted two rubber pads on my clamps.
Pic 2) I moved on to welding in floorboard pieces in my Piggie. This is after about 20 minutes max of practice welding for my first time ever. I was happy enough with it.
Pic 3) Here is the same piece with some additional welds. I put a few more welds in then ground down my welds and patched a few parts.

Note to self - you will set the undercoating on fire if you do not grind it away from the bottom of your welds.

I did find out that it is easier for me to push than pull a weld. Thanks to Trollhole for letting me borrow a welding helmet. I also usually tried to push my weld too fast and too narrow.
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Old 04-21-07, 05:47 PM   #127 (permalink)
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PS - Mud salute.
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Old 04-21-07, 06:00 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Someone abandoned a Jeep in your garage....

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Old 04-21-07, 06:07 PM   #129 (permalink)
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Someone abandoned a Jeep in your garage....

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That's the wife's - I swear!!! I'm working on convincing her to sell it and buy a 40. She wants the 40 but doesn't want to give up the Heep she has had since high school. I think once I find a decent 40 locally and she drives it she'll take the bait.

I guess I shouldn't tell you that her DD is another Heep...

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Old 04-25-07, 06:05 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Did some welding the past two evenings. My welding has improved much from this weekend. I can pretty much push a bead several inches. I haven't tried to go further b/c I end up setting the undercoating on my Pig on fire - I've had to grab the garden hose twice!

Lance @ IPOR is going to fab up the body mount I need for at the passenger A-pillar. Sadly it looks like the Pig won't make GSMTR. I still have to receive and install the body mount from Lance, finish welding in all new metal for the floor, add a second coat of POR15 and prime (so I can install Durabak after GSMTR) and weld in the IPOR bucket seat bracket and install seats and console.

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Old 04-25-07, 06:19 AM   #131 (permalink)
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great progress; what welding set up are you using?; any takers on Marshall's offer on going 1/2 on a bead roller?; I am interested........just the shippping back and forth would be a problem for me cause of the distance......

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Old 04-25-07, 06:24 AM   #132 (permalink)
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great progress; what welding set up are you using?; any takers on Marshall's offer on going 1/2 on a bead roller?; I am interested........just the shippping back and forth would be a problem for me cause of the distance......

Lou
I talked to Marshall about the bead roller when we were wheeling this past weekend. I'm using ~14/16 gauge for my floors and I think the bead roller would have a tough time w/ that. I've got a Miller AutoArc 110v welder. It works fine as far as I can tell for sheet metal. I haven't tried working with anything thicker yet but will soon.

ETA: and thanks for the progress compliment - one gets frustrated at times working on these beasts.

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Old 04-25-07, 08:29 AM   #133 (permalink)
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understand; feel the same way about "Rusty" and then see your progress and get inspired work on it some more......are you using a "mig" welder?

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Old 04-25-07, 08:57 AM   #134 (permalink)
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Yup - a mig - I'll copy down the specs tonight. You are welcome to come by and try your hand if you are close enough. Its really pretty easy so far as far as I can tell - start a bead and push it along... Of course I might find out later that I was doing it wrong when the floor falls off. I've banged on the welded pieces pretty hard and they haven't budged.

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Old 04-25-07, 10:49 AM   #135 (permalink)
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More pics please!


If you can weld sheet metal without ruining it, you'll do fine on the structural stuff by the time you get to it. Since you said you burnt right through the 14G on your first try, your welder should work fine for heavier stuff.

Don't be frustrated! This is a lifetime project. Take your time and do it right and it will last a long, long time. Bummer about the truck missing GSMTR, but it will be there next year, bigger and better!

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Old 04-25-07, 10:52 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Reminds me of that quote in the calendar a few years back. "If I had known it was going to last this long, I'd have taken better care of it."

I believe that 55 went up in smoke though.

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Old 04-25-07, 12:22 PM   #137 (permalink)
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Yooper - I burnt straight through the sheet and the voltage was turned down. I'm pretty sure I can weld fairly heavy plate without a problem. I am going to buy the MetalTech cage as soon as it is available so I hope I can weld it. I'll take some more pics today. I have to get some for Lance @ IPOR to build a body mount for me.

Todd - this truck is definately smoldering but isn't up in smoke yet :shotts: . I have set it on fire twice welding. I learned quickly to keep a garden hose close by (and a fire extinguisher in reserve.) If I push a bead too long I'll set the undercoating on fire. There is a good bit of rust on this rig but its all manageable. Once I finish the interior I'm going to fix the roof - then the fenders (I have a free fender in good shape on the way) - and then to the rear - and then the underside - no problem and no worries.

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Old 04-26-07, 06:28 PM   #138 (permalink)
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Ghetto Fab 101

I got a little work done today but rain chased me inside - and a grumbling stomach.

I had been contemplating how to put a curve in some metal, or some other way to bridge a gap between two pieces of metal I had or would be welding into place. The solution....a hammer! Today I was looking at the two pieces and by chance had a hammer in my hand and thought "what the heck," and it worked!

Pic 1) What I started with - long thin piece of ~16 gauge welded into place - note no curve in metal.
Pic 2) Gap I'm talking about. This is at the seam just infront of the rear bench seat. The same gap is on both sides. This is a pic on the passenger's side and I had already wacked the metal a few times to start a slight curve.
Pic 3) Piece of sheet cut and ready for welding.

Disclaimer: I just taught myself how to weld a few days ago...
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Old 04-26-07, 06:33 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Few more pics...

Pic 1) Piece of sheet from last pic above tacked into place - these were rushed b/c of the rain. I then beat the snot out of the middle piece to put a curve into it and bring it down to meet the smaller piece, then welded the two together.
Pic 2) Overview from the front.
Pic 3) Neighbor's dog - was white, then it started raining and combine a white fluffy dog with a construction site = hilarity.
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Old 04-26-07, 06:43 PM   #140 (permalink)
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There are few Cruiser-related problems that can't be solved with a hammer. Always have your Cruiser hammer handy!

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Old 04-26-07, 08:15 PM   #141 (permalink)
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I can fix a lot of things permanently with a 4 lb hammer .......... OK I need a welder; am convinced that I need more in the tool box than a hammer!

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Old 04-29-07, 05:34 PM   #142 (permalink)
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I got a good bit of work in this weekend but its hard to tell! I ran out of shielding gas and the only place to get a refill on the weekend was Tractor Supply 40 mins away. I ended up cutting about half a dozen pieces of sheet to fill in my holy floorboard. I POR'd the bottom sides the sheet and will POR the top after I weld them into place. I also POR'd a body mount, underside of door sills, and pretty much anywhere that was rusty and I could reach now but won't be able to when I close up my floor.

Here are a few pics.

Pic 1) Passenger A-pillar body mount cleaned up, POR'd, and door sill and bottom of A-pillar POR'd.
Pic 2) Driver's A-pillar body mount POR'd - also POR'd underside of door sill.
Pic 3) Passenger wheel well patch.
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Old 04-29-07, 05:42 PM   #143 (permalink)
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2 more pics.

Pic 1) Seam at rear bench fully patched. Passenger side welds have not been ground. Crescent shaped patch still to be installed in front of rear wheel well has been a pain to fab. I have been using 16 gauge sheet but dropped back and punted today and bought 22 gauge when I was at Tractor Supply. It proved to be much easier to work with and I'll tackle that problem this week.
Pic 2) A shot of about half the panels I cut, fit and POR'd. I POR'd the underside and will POR the topside after I finish welding.
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Old 04-29-07, 06:34 PM   #144 (permalink)
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nice work!...regardless of your welding skills -you're getting that floor patched up and functional once again..........so you can get back in the saddle of that pig and get er out exercising. Thanks for the motivation and I look forward to viewing the progression.
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Old 04-30-07, 06:07 AM   #145 (permalink)
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Quick question: I will soon put down a thick coating (several thin layers) of Durabak. I was planning on using the rough type for traction but someone recommende the smooth b/c its easier to clean. I am leaning towards the rough type but what does everyone else think - rough or smooth and why?

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Old 04-30-07, 06:09 AM   #146 (permalink)
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I always "cleaned" it with a leaf blower.

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Old 04-30-07, 06:50 AM   #147 (permalink)
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Nice work!

Frankly I wouldn't worry about pretty welds, you'll cover it up with liner and (probably) mats anyway so why fuss?

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Old 04-30-07, 07:21 AM   #148 (permalink)
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Depends on where the Durabak is going. Personally I am putting the "rough" on the interior for traction and the smooth on the bottom for protection and ease of cleaning. From what I understand the smooth stuff is pretty slick and provides little traction.

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Old 04-30-07, 08:02 AM   #149 (permalink)
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I'm thinking rough inside floors up to windows in places, smooth on underside but it will be awhile before I get to the underside - the interior will be done in a month or so hopefully.

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Old 04-30-07, 08:38 AM   #150 (permalink)
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I have the rough on the whole damn body and its all good. I havent had any problems with cleaning the rough.

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