[eventhough]

Mine is a bit rustier though! Mine was originally red and white, and painted blue and white before Todd bought it. I will repaint but will keep the blue and white - I like those colors better.

[eventhough]

I got about seven hours in today. I removed the rear heater - lost a little under a pint of antifreeze. I did catch the anitfreeze that drained w/ a bucket. I have to figure out how to dispose of it now. I capped the T fittings under the dash with caps and hose clamps. The caps themselves wouldn't hold the anitfreeze. The clamps appear to be doing the job. I'll see once I start driving.

I finished prepping the interior for POR. I cleaned up some factory caulk, wire wheeled some areas I couldn't reach with the angle grinder w/ a flap disc, applied Marine Clean and scrubbed, rinsed, applied Metal Prep, let dry, then put on one coat of POR15 semi-gloss black. I covered the floor and sides up to the windows, including the tailgate and tranny hump. I wanted to get another coat on while the first coat was tacky but between lack of access and rain I called it a day. Will I need to scuff the first coat of POR before I add my second and final coat? I think two coats will be enough before I apply at least two coasts of Durabak.

I did confirm that POR15 does not wash off skin. I left about half inch to one inch gaps w/o POR where I have to weld in new metal. There were a few areas where I forgot and painted up to an edge but I'll just grind those areas clean when I start welding. I also forgot to mark off where I want to weld the IPOR bucket seat mount so I wouldn't paint those areas but I will just grind those areas clean before I weld.

Still can't get my tach to work.

I tried to get the bolt that runs through my passenger A pillar body mount loose - I had been spraying Break Free on the bolt for a few weeks, I put two wrenches on it and cranked...just to send my hand into the door which caused a stream of expletives and a little blood to spew forth. No stitches needed. I guess I am going to have to cut that bolt out. It will rotate but the nut is totally seized.

I started pounding out some dents in the rear quarters. I didn't finish but from a few smacks I think I have a chance and making these areas look a little better. I especially am happy about the prospects of fixing the dent where Todd let his Piggie take a nap.

I also had to replace the negative battery terminal clamp. The one that was on the Piggie had a crack. I took it off and barely applied any pressure but it still fell apart - off to Advance Auto Parts. Its sad now that the guys at Advance are starting to recognize me. I don't remember if I said this already or not but I also picked up an Optima red top batter. I killed the old battery.

I have plenty of pictures but my download cable for my camera is in my wife's office. I'm going to try and get it tomorrow to post pics - I know y'all like pics much more than reading my rambles!

If I can get the sheet metal welded into place and the bucket seats installed I'll be able to take my Piggie to GSMTR next month! If I don't make enough progress though I'll have to ride with someone else.

Thanks for reading!

[yooper]

Yeah I wanna see pics of the newly painted interior, but it can wait until you have the bedliner in...

Was that an old crappy battery or a yellow Walmart one? If it was an old crappy one, then it was kinda on its way out anyway. I was going to put in a yellow Walmart one but I might not have ever got around to it...if you killed a yellow Walmart battery then you did something really bad, 'cause those suckes are tough!

[eventhough]

It was one of the yellow Wal-Mart batteries. It was from 02 I think so out of warranty. I killed it by draining it twice - my fault. It worked fine before I kept forgetting and would leave the overhead light on.

I'm going to post pics tomorrow. I might not be able to get the bedliner in until after GSMTR depending on time. I really want to get everything together in time for GSMTR but with my absolute lack of current welding skills we will have to see.

[yooper]

Originally Posted by eventhough

It was one of the yellow Wal-Mart batteries. It was from 02 I think so out of warranty. I killed it by draining it twice - my fault. It worked fine before I kept forgetting and would leave the overhead light on.

I'm going to post pics tomorrow. I might not be able to get the bedliner in until after GSMTR depending on time. I really want to get everything together in time for GSMTR but with my absolute lack of current welding skills we will have to see.

Oh that was the first one of those I ever bought. I switched it out of my FJ62 when I sold it and put it in the Pig. That was a great battery - I drained it about 10 times in the FJ62 and it never seemed to notice - you must have drained it hard or else it was just too tired from my abuse. RIP yellow Walmart battery!

GIT R DONE!

[eventhough]

The weather is going to get cruddy pretty quick today but I hope to get some sheet metal cut out to fix those Fred Flintstone floorboards. I have some angle iron that I am going to use for a floor support that I had to cut out. Fabbing a body mount is going to be a pain though. I also am going to try to put down a second coat of POR. I don't feel like scuffing the entire floorboard again but I might run a Scotch pad over - I hope the second coat of POR sticks...

[eventhough]

OK - so my camera download cable was supposed to be at my wife's work but low and behold there it was this morning on the kitchen counter - so enjoy the pics!

All three pics are after I have finished stripping of the majority of old paint, grind off rust, cleaning up old factory caulk, and cleaning of dust, etc.

[eventhough]

And more pics...

1) Scrub supplies - Marine Clean and scrub brush.
2) Post scrub pic.
3) Rear heater caps - had to use hose clamps to stop flow of antifreeze. You will see a few drops of antifreeze still dripping from the caps - I had not cleaned up yet.

[eventhough]

Post etch pics - used Metal Ready.

[eventhough]

Taping after etching and pre painting.

[eventhough]

Post POR application - only one coat - I want to put one more coat on before I apply Durabak.

[eventhough]

A few more post POR pics.

[eventhough]

And last pics.

Vent at passenger side vent from fender area - same on driver's side. I'll fix this when I fix the fenders.

[yooper]

You're not going to POR the inside of the rear quarter panels or the doors? Or is that later?

What color bedliner are you planning?


Looks good! Nice and shiny!

[eventhough]

Everything is going to get covered w/ POR. I'm trying to not bite off too much at once. I'm only doing the interior right now so I can get my seats back in and hopefully make GSMTR. Next I'm thinking I'll get the roof fixed, then thefenders in good shape, then the rear quarters. The POR was a semi-gloss that is much duller now that it has dried. It was still wet in the pics.

Do you think I can apply another coat of POR directly over the last coat w/o any prep?

Bedliner so far is going to be black - its the cheapest. I considered dark gray.

ETA: Another reason I'm waiting on the rear quarters is I am going to first strip all bondo off and see what shape the metal is in. I have a local sheet metal fab shop that is interested in bending some new metal for my rear quarters so I don't want to do much work on what I have if I am going to replace them soon.

[yooper]

I don't know the POR re-coat details as I've never used it. The directions or their website don't address it? http://www.por15.com/

Yeah, you can only do so much at one time, and wheeling season shouldn't be missed!

[Kaderabek]

Now looking forward to GSMTR even more.

TJK

[eventhough]

neighbor's kid shot my windshield with a BB gun - dead center too. I've seen them before in their backyard w/ a BB gun.

ETA: wife said a bunch of kids were at the neighbors house yesterday...I bet it was them.

Oh, and a bird sh*t inside my Pig - I guess it flew in through the Fred Flinstone floorboard...

[Kaderabek]

Things are spiraling out of control...!

TJK

[yooper]

[jm599]

POR recoat directions I believe are to rescuff with scotchbrite pad or use Tie Coat Primer they make between the coats...

.
Indeed the POR is very slick after curing. You probably could get away with just one coat of POR if you are going to herculiner or other over it.

but I would scotchbrite for sure, only takes a few minutes and then just blow off, damp rag and you are ready for next coat

[eventhough]

Thanks JM. I just read up on the POR site and they said to wet sand w/ either 400 or 600 grit sandpaper (I forget which) until the gloss is gone and then reapply. I used semi-gloss and its slick but not too bad so I think a scotchbrite pad will do as you say. I'll then apply primer when the second coat of POR is tacky, let the primer cure, and apply Durabak. I'm thinking two to three coats of Durabak. - thanks.

[eventhough]

I got a little over 2 hours in this evening. I was able to rub a scotchbrite pad over the POR I just applied yesterday. I might hit it again with something else - maybe 400 grit. I also sketched out some patterns for the sheet metal I need to cut out. I hope to finish them tomorrow and start cutting metal.

ETA: I also removed the rear reflectors - I had to drill out all four screws. I don't think I will reuse the reflectors. I'll probably shave the mounts off flush with the rest of the body.

[n2666s]

are you going to stay with the original bench seat?

Lou

[eventhough]

Lou - I am going to reuse the original rear bench but not the front. I have an IPOR bucket seat mount, tuffy console and 2 IPOR bucket seats ready for install.

[Trollhole]

Originally Posted by eventhough

I got a little over 2 hours in this evening. I was able to rub a scotchbrite pad over the POR I just applied yesterday. I might hit it again with something else - maybe 400 grit. I also sketched out some patterns for the sheet metal I need to cut out. I hope to finish them tomorrow and start cutting metal.

ETA: I also removed the rear reflectors - I had to drill out all four screws. I don't think I will reuse the reflectors. I'll probably shave the mounts off flush with the rest of the body.

Steve I'll go in half on a bead roller with you.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

[eventhough]

I'm using the Richard method - heavy sheet metal - I think 14 gauge. I don't think I could roll beads in that.

Originally Posted by Trollhole

Steve I'll go in half on a bead roller with you.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

[eventhough]

I found out yesterday that cutting sheet metal to fit exactly for floorboard replacement is easier than it seems.

[n2666s]

what did you cut the sheet metal with?, am liking Scotts idea of the bead roller; anyone with experience care to comment on its use? difficulty?; personally am tired of waiting for replacement floorboards and really don't want to get the wife POd if one of our little ones pops out on the road from the floorboard holes!

Lou

[eventhough]

I cut 95%+ of the sheet metal out with an angle grinder. It was pretty easy. I sketched out with a sharpie where I wanted to cut and then went to town. I made sure of what was beneath where I was cutting. The sharpie lines really helped. I try to freehand a few areas and it was much more difficult. I'm cutting the replacement sheet metal w/ an angle grinder also and its taking a long time. I'm working with about 14 or 16 gauge sheet - I think 14, which matches what was already in the floors. I'm not worrying about rolling beads b/c the 14 gauge is pretty beefy but on the other hand its heavy and harder to work with. I think something thinner with a bead roller might be the ticket.