My piggy restoration...going slow...

k9crazy · 02-11-07, 04:18 PM

So, I started the bit by bit body work on the new pig yesterday. I can't strip it down completely because I am going to have to drive it for a couple of weeks while I get my FJ Cruiser repaired (I had a little tree accident).

After replacing the electric fuel pump on Thursday I started unveiling the rust issues centering around the rear floorboard and rockers. Here's what I have so far...

The floorboard is ready for a patch and I am still trying to figure out how to fix the rockers and rear QP corners at the rocker.

Wayneraintree · 02-11-07, 04:28 PM

"The floorboard is ready for a patch and I am still trying to figure out how to fix the rockers and rear QP corners at the rocker."

You and 99% of the rest of us : )

Doesn't look too bad overall.... Pics of the floor patch when you can please?

clemson55 · 02-11-07, 04:58 PM

That rust is a joke Heather. You'll have that knocked out in no time.

LC_Hamma · 02-11-07, 05:55 PM

Ummm, did we forget the fingernail polish today? I got the factory optional rusted flooboard just like you did! Wow, I can't believe that paint hid those swiss cheese rockers like that! You gonna trim them up or try & patch? I'd be afraid to weld anything to those as you'd be burning through & chasing holes, BTDT!

k9crazy · 02-11-07, 06:54 PM

I don't know about knocking it out in no time, but I am sure I'll figure something out!

Fingernail polish? I'm lucky I have fingers after learning to use the grinder today!

I am thinking about taking aluminum flashing and forming it to the shape the corners are supposed to be, then coating them POR-15, sticking them on with POR Patch, putting fiberglass over it, and then some filler to finish it off. There's nothing to attach to in those areas, so I thought the added aluminum would help give some structure. I don't want to put aluminum right on steel because of the potential reaction issues, so I think isolating it with POR-15 should do the trick. I dunno...but welding right now isn't an option since I don't know how to do that and there aren't any replacement panels available yet.

n2666s · 02-11-07, 10:35 PM

maybe Ehsan or Paul will come through sometime in the future with panels..............amazing what pretty paint, fiberglass and bondo can cover till you take a grinder to it............ mine looked pretty till I took a grinder to the "bubbles :( looks like most all of us need replacement panels !

Lou

LC_Hamma · 02-11-07, 10:38 PM

There was so much rust through, I had to cut & refab the rockers & the ends & the rail where the weather strip mounts & part of the floor. I also drilled some drainage holes in the lowest part of the rear floor. Don't forget to check the front body mounts as I had to refab those too. I still need to clean up the front a little - used a little too much POR patch. Hopefully this *may help:

k9crazy · 02-12-07, 07:59 AM

That does help Chuck, thanks. One thing that I am not sure how to do is to rebuild the rusty door stops. The ridge that the weather stripping attaches to is gone on both sides. Any suggestions on that?

Buckethead · 02-12-07, 08:24 AM

Im glad to see someone fixing that pig, way too nice to let it rot.

Best of luck with all of the build, its looking good.

toddslater · 02-12-07, 06:09 PM

One option you may consider to take care of those rockers and rusted lower front fenders are Lance's (IPOR) sliders. For $184 that would save time, money, heart ache, and provide protection if your ever thinking of wheeling that pig. As far as the ridge for the weather stripping...maybe you can persuade Gumby to put a little sheet metal in a brake for you (outta be able to get most of it back). In the long run a little mig would serve you well. Take a class at a votech school and think of the fun you could have. Also, some compressed air and a nibbler to round out the field.

k9crazy · 02-24-07, 04:31 PM

Well, my brother and I cut out a piece of sheet metal that fits really well. We'll tack it into place when we are ready, but I think it will fit the bill nicely.

Now for some other questions. The fenders are off and they are not too bad. The support is shot at the bottom, but I think I can cut it off, fix the fender, and divert the water out to prevent more rusting. So that's all good.

However, I can't get the stinking turn signals off to save my life! They have been sitting with PB Blaster on the nut for 2 days and they still won't turn. I did note that I am not the first to attempt this on my pig, as the little nubs that keep them from turning are long gone. So, when I do get a wrench on them, they just spin. I don't know if I can get them off without ruining the post. Any suggestions? I already smashed my little finger on the fender and cut it pretty bad trying to loosen the nuts, so needless to say, it's pissing me off at this point. I'll get over it.

Any suggestions?

n2666s · 02-25-07, 10:25 AM

Heather, what has worked for me is if yours are metal I would try heating them with a torch.......let them cool, apply PB blaster again......heat till they are red and smoking..........cool again then PB blaster then try getting them off; if that fails; take a grinder then drill and tap new threads;

Lou

LC_Hamma · 02-25-07, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n2666s

Heather, what has worked for me is if yours are metal I would try heating them with a torch.......let them cool, apply PB blaster again......heat till they are red and smoking..........cool again then PB blaster then try getting them off; if that fails; take a grinder then drill and tap new threads;

Lou

Ya can't use heat there as it'll melt the turn signal bottom. That bolt is hollowed out for the wires too. You may have to say adios to the bottom part of the housing that mounts to the fender to get ahold of the top part of the bolt. IIRC I had to do that on one of mine. Heather, have you found a replacement for the rubber piece that sandwiches the fender to the body as I need it too? And, what's Dan doing helping? I thought he didn't like working on trucks?

k9crazy · 02-25-07, 04:23 PM

Yeah, I was thinking about that plastic piece melting too. I can find the whole assembly for a 40, which is the same as the 55 except for the angle at the fender. I understand that you can grind the 40's down to fit. We'll see. I think Marshall found some somewhere, but I think he said that they weren't going to produce them anymore.

As for Dan working on the truck, he's full of it. He whines about working on it, but once he gets started, he's hooked. Plus, I am his favorite sister and he's happy to help. Well...maybe not happy, but tolerant.

k9crazy · 02-25-07, 05:33 PM

So...the progress this week was getting the fenders off, cleaning up the rockers more, figuring out the whole heater issue, and finding bugs. Oh, and the neighbor's lab stopped by for a visit and to "help."

Dan working on the truck...see how much he hates it???

Dan's rolling tool box AKA "The Avocado"

Buzz, the neighbor's dog. He has an FZJ80, FJ62, and an FJ55 in his family...so he knows cruisers and offered up much moral support!

Mud wasps...thank goodness it's winter and the darn things were gone already.

n2666s · 02-25-07, 06:15 PM

Heather, an old trick was to wrap the plastic with a cold wet rag and just hit the nut with the torch.........gingerly; don't know of anything else that works as well; C-net does have new style turn signals though if everything else fails :(

Lou

k9crazy · 02-28-07, 06:04 PM

Still can't get the darn turn signal off. But I haven't been working on the truck as much as I want to either. Taylor is out of the country and I thought I would have all week to get on it. Then the damn pig bit me and I haven't been able to hold the grinder or screwdriver or....you get the picture.

So tonight I figured I'd start on the drip rail, not too labor intensive, I can sand with a bad finger. Now I have a question. Are they normally filled to the top with some kind of while caulk-like substance or do I have the PO to thank for that one? It's taking me HOURS to dremel that crap out of there so I can get to the metal to rust proof it. I realize that if it's not rusty now, probably it's ok, but the water seems to get under this caulk and it does rust in places, then it creeps. Better to remove the gunk and the rust and call it a day I think.

I'll take some pics after I am done tonight. Right now I am taking a "I hate that PO" break. And I am having a beer. So there.

Trollhole · 02-28-07, 06:37 PM

I've always thought of using one of those pait stripper disks on the grinder to get the gunk out of the rain gutter. A Dremel would suck. Keep plucking away.

Trollhole · 02-28-07, 06:52 PM

kind of like this.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/p.../158348_lg.gif

k9crazy · 02-28-07, 07:59 PM

That's a good idea Marshall. I have one of those I'll try tomorrow.

toddslater · 02-28-07, 09:07 PM

Those discs Marshall posted up are the shit...I used many..many of them to strip off paint in all the tight places (around the rear window, body edges on the quaters and doors, around the cowl, pillars...list goes on and on) on mine. Perfect for the rain gutter. And yes the gutter is filled with something akin to 3M seam sealer.

toddslater · 02-28-07, 09:17 PM

Also, as it appears you will eventually get to the bone, so to speak, on your truck two places you should definitely use those discs, and even then with care, are circled in the pics. These two spots are where the factory used lead in the seams. Also you'll need one of these to put them on...http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...323&pricetype= but they will save alot of time, flesh and knuckle busting.

k9crazy · 02-28-07, 10:25 PM

I found the lead on the front already. It's pretty soft and I noticed the change in the material pretty fast. Why is it a big deal to find the lead? Or to take the top off of it for that matter (which of course, I did)?

Right now I have pnumatic tools, but no air...but the more I go forward with this, the more I am thinking I might need to make an investment in a good compressor.

cruiserbrett · 03-01-07, 01:20 PM

[QUOTE=k9crazy;1903734]Still can't get the darn turn signal off. QUOTE]

Go get a "nut splitter" from sears. baciscally it splits the nut in half with a sharp wedge, and then the nut should come off more easily. they are in the tool section, and it was about $20 last time I got one...

k9crazy · 03-01-07, 01:32 PM

I have so many comments about "nut splitter," but I'd better keep them to myself.

Fantastic suggestion, I'll go on a "nut splitter" hunt this weekend!

toddslater · 03-01-07, 05:47 PM

No big deal to find lead or taking a little bit off the top. You'll just need to float that back out with a little filler. I just always try to minimize the amout of factory lead work that I grind out. Less bondo is always better, and if you know where the lead is ahead of time you can back off it a bit. Another thing you can do for the nasty nut on the turn signal base is use your dremel to cut the nut off. One pass down either side and a whack or two with a chisel should take care of it.

k9crazy · 03-03-07, 01:33 PM

This came with the 55...anyone know what kind of roof rack this is and if there are still accessories available? I'd love to put the spare and a gas can up there and lock them down.

I have all the hardware to mount the rack on the truck, BTW.

Wayneraintree · 03-03-07, 04:20 PM

Isn't that a "wilderness rack"?

Link http://www.4by4connection.com/toyota5.html

ehsankiani · 03-04-07, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k9crazy

This came with the 55...anyone know what kind of roof rack this is and if there are still accessories available? I'd love to put the spare and a gas can up there and lock them down.

I have all the hardware to mount the rack on the truck, BTW.

Is that an Alluminium or Steel rack?

k9crazy · 03-04-07, 12:27 PM

The rack is steel. I think the mounts are aluminium.