Bogging on hills

pr0ject42 · 01-25-07, 11:40 AM

So I've run into some problems with my piggy. After my last trail run it developed a fuel delivery problem. When going up hill, under load, it would sputter, buck and kick. I could fix the problem by kicking in the toy-box to reduce the load on the engine, but then obviously I was just crawling along.

When going down hill, it was fine even under load (i.e. pushing through snow, etc). So I don't think it really is a carb issue. So finally I've gotten sick of looking at the poor pig in my driveway and despite all of the f-ing snow, I want to get it back to status quo.

So, I think either it is the fuel filter or the fuel pump that might be going south. Has anyone had to replace the fuel pump on a 2F? I think the engine is a 78 or 79. Also, does anyone recognize this fuel filter? Is it even a fuel filter? Sorry for the crappy pic, I can snap a new one during daylight if it is unrecognizable:

KliersLC · 01-25-07, 12:13 PM

Sounds like a filter to me

pr0ject42 · 01-25-07, 12:36 PM

Do you recognize that filter? it is resting on the passenger frame rail near the oil filter.

Is that a part I can get from NAPA or should I go with OEM stuff? Keep in mind I want to make the fix as cheap as possible to make sure that is the problem at hand. It doesn't look like those glass or metal bottomed fuel filters I've read about in the 40/55 forum.

Thanks for the quick response!

Trollhole · 01-25-07, 02:35 PM

I'd buy one of the fuel filters with the glass tube to see whats actually see whats coming out of your tank. I have one on both cruiser and it really helps trouble shooting fuel problems. Plus it easy to clean. And it's cheap.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...artnumber=9706

pr0ject42 · 01-25-07, 03:01 PM

Cool! I'll swing by a parts store on the way home and grab one and see what it does for me. Thanks!

surfpig · 01-25-07, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pr0ject42

Do you recognize that filter? it is resting on the passenger frame rail near the oil filter.

Is that a part I can get from NAPA or should I go with OEM stuff? Keep in mind I want to make the fix as cheap as possible to make sure that is the problem at hand. It doesn't look like those glass or metal bottomed fuel filters I've read about in the 40/55 forum.

Thanks for the quick response!

That's the fuel filter there in the picture.

Once when travelling, I developed fuel issues and limped it to a NAPA store. They were able to make a decent enough match to the OEM one in terms of the bends and such. I don't have the part # handy though... just bring the filter in there. After that, I was off like a rocket! Well... it ran better.

toddslater · 01-25-07, 04:57 PM

If they don't have the glass tube style (seems the local Peep Boys doesn't have them anymore) they should at least have the clear plastic ones (3/8" inlet and outlet). I've been thru 4 filters in 14 gallons of fuel.

If it doesn't clean up soon, out comes the tank for another cleaning.

pr0ject42 · 01-25-07, 06:38 PM

I just grabbed a metal in-line one, as it was one of the few that had the right size inlet/outlet and the right number of inlets/outlets and happened to put the lines in the somewhat similar orientation as before.

Now the problem seems exaggerated, like a true dirty filter where when you put on a little gas just sitting there and it dies.

Do you think the $2 filter is that bad? Could my gas be that dirty? I know, I know I should have grabbed a clear one.

Trollhole · 01-25-07, 07:25 PM

Did you put it going the right direction. Some have a check flow system in them.

ecodan · 01-25-07, 08:20 PM

apparently on some carbs their is also a fillter in the housing where the fuel inlet bolts on. Might be worth unscrewing the inlet and shining a torch in to have a look.

P.s replacing the mechanical fuel pump is easy, i did it late last year.

pr0ject42 · 01-25-07, 09:20 PM

I'm pretty sure I put it in the right way, the "IN" side was plugged into the line coming from the tank. I did do it in the dark though, so maybe checking it out during the daytime might be a prudent idea.

Do I need to pick up a chiltons to do the fuel pump or is it that straight forward? Where (in the US) can I pick one up?

Ming89FJ62 · 01-25-07, 09:30 PM

Replacing the fuel pump is a

project. Disconnect the two fuel lines (1) from the fuel filter (1) to the carb. Remove 2 bolts holding fuel pump to block (keep the spacer/insulator and reuse it). 15-20 min's max. You should be able to get a after market replacment at almost any auto parts store (NAPA, Car Quest, Auto Zone etc.)

KliersLC · 01-26-07, 12:40 AM

I'm not sure how changing the filter could have made your problem worse....

Did you run it long enough to get all the bubbles out??

pr0ject42 · 01-26-07, 07:39 AM

I most likely didn't run it long enough to get all of the air out. Those mechanical pumps are kinda low pressure huh?

How long should I let it idle? It did, sometimes, bog out while idling. I think I let it go, without the time it took to start it back up again, for about 5 minutes. Maybe 10, but it was cold outside so I'm betting it was shorter than longer.

Ming, thanks for the tips on the fuel pump! If I don't need them now, I'm sure I'll need them in the future!

ecodan · 01-27-07, 03:35 AM

I agree with Ming, much better to replace the petrol pump with an after market than do a re-build... their quite cheap so why bother with the re-build anyhow, that way everythings new.

We Don't Rent Pigs · 01-27-07, 06:49 PM

Pro-42

I was having a somewhat similiar problem on my piggy except that my carb kept over flowing. Everytime I took the carb apart there was pieces of garbage in the bowl. What I ended up doing after finding out an OEM style fuel filter was no longer available was put in an in line filter from Napa. After cleaning the carb for like the 5th time and installing a new fuel filter I've had no problems since. I would gues the pieces of crap in the fuel wouldn't allow the needle and seat in the carb to seal, and would plug up the jets. FWIW.