[Lucy_FJ55]

Oh yeah, I noticed this on the '81 and I am not sure what exactly it is and does yet. Anyone?

[nuclearlemon]

Originally Posted by Lucy_FJ55

Oh yeah, I noticed this on the '81 and I am not sure what exactly it is and does yet. Anyone?

oil cooler

[Lucy_FJ55]

Originally Posted by nuclearlemon

oil cooler

Thought so, cool and thanks.

[Lucy_FJ55]

So, is this oil cooler stock on newer 2F's?

[Guyute]

Originally Posted by Lucy_FJ55

Thought so, cool and thanks.

They appeared in late 75 I think. My Ca. spec early '76 has one as well as an early '79.

Hey, Carlos. I documented the desmog and posted purty pictures.
See> http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/124998-76-2f-desmog-pics.html

HTH,
Brian

[Lucy_FJ55]

Originally Posted by Lucy_FJ55

The rear engine mounts on the orig. '77 FJ55 engine have three mounting points per mount and side but the newer, '81 FJ40 engine only has two but also incorporated a crossmember. I wasn't planning on using the crossmember and was wondering if I should just drill, and then 'tap and die' the new holes (one on either side of the bellhousing) or if I should go through the trouble of swapping bellhousings? Seems like a pain to swap out bellhousings unless folks think I shouldn't mess with drilling the newer housing.

Also, which transmission and transfercase setup do ya'all suggest? The newer '81 or the older '77 or a mix 'n match? I also realize if I use the newer transfercase I lose the drum mounted emergency brake. Can the drum mount be swapped to the newer '81 transfercase? Or am I stuck with getting a disc brake conversion, line lock, or rear disc brake/emergency brake combo? Just trying to 'wrap' my brains around all the options in order to make a good decision. Thanks for any advice.

Oh, and I guess I will probably have to shorten my rear driveshaft also. Was hoping to get this done by Christmas as a gift to myself but I'm losing faith.

Anyone still reading all this and actually gettin' it?

Carlos

TTT

I also posted this in the 40/55 tech section. Anyone else here have any thoughts?

[Lucy_FJ55]

Ah, come on. Somebody must have done something similar or know more about this. Anyone?

Which transmission and which transfer case do ya'all suggest is best for mild wheeling/daily driving? The '77 or '81 transmission and/or transfer case?

I have done lots of searches and am still educating myself about all the differences and similarities to these setups but am still confused about some stuff.

I will lose the emergency drum brake mounted on the older '77 tcase (if I don't use it) but can add a disk e-brake or rear discs w/ an e-brake or a line lock, right? I am not interested in a line lock but I would like a safe, reliable, and not terribly expensive e-brake setup. Are there any other options like this? What have you guys used?

And, what about driveline lengths due to the differences in transmission, tcase, and e-brake setups? Any advice. Can I get away without changing lengths? How?

Thanks everyone. Ya'all rock and I definitely appreciate any advice. Carlos

P.S. Got my header in the mail and am waiting for a fluid heat riser kit and some gaskets and stuff to continue. I'll post pics soon.

[warrior_1515]

I know this probably isn't too much help, but since you asked.

Personally I would use the '77 for the bellhousing, trans and t/c. My vote is to keep stuff simple. Then you aren't in too deep with mods and you can sell that nice split case.

Put it this way, we could have that engine back in your wagon within two days if you keep the origional parts. Also, you will get a good look at the clutch on both trans and choose the best one.

Dave

[Lucy_FJ55]

Originally Posted by warrior_1515

I know this probably isn't too much help, but since you asked.

Personally I would use the '77 for the bellhousing, trans and t/c. My vote is to keep stuff simple. Then you aren't in too deep with mods and you can sell that nice split case.

Put it this way, we could have that engine back in your wagon within two days if you keep the origional parts. Also, you will get a good look at the clutch on both trans and choose the best one.

Dave

Your'e probably right Dave.

K.I.S.S. Keep it simple stoopid!

I guess I was hoping to use the best of all parts but it seems to mean more headaches also but, if I can figure it all out I could be up and driving soon. Hmmm, mabe I should toss that newer 4 spd and split case in the trail pig...

[Lucy_FJ55]

So, worked on both engines today and had some help. I have decided to swap everthing behind the engine, bellhousings/trans/tranny, etc. As mentioned, this should solve my driveshaft length issues, emergency brake issues, and any other problems.

So, onward! Got a couple pics to share. One of the header, one of the chaos in mid tear down, and one of my buddy Dave 'gittin it'.

[Lucy_FJ55]

O.K. Go easy on me, this may sound stoopid.

So, I need to remove the distributor and I have searched and read a bit about the proper procedure. Before I go yanking stuff out, I assumed I should mark the dist. position. Most folks tell you to check for TDC on the flywheel, etc. I have already taken the flywheel off so what are my options now? Do I just figure out another way to mark the dist? What happens when I go to throw the flywheel back on? Does it only fit one way? I'm asking 'cause I didn't take it off and am now wondering out loud. Advice?

Thanks, Carlos.

[cruiserbrett]

You can use the split case and have an OEM toyota parking brake on the t-case, but it costs about $400 for parts, and you have to tear down the t-case on top of that.

if it were a daily driver, I would only use the split case if it had the spacer as the later ones so you could upgrade to an H55F later. I do think you will need to shorten the rear DS, and possibly lengthen the front, IIRC. Also, I wouldnt worry about trying to locate, drill and tap the hole in the bellhousing, just swap them out, then you can get in to put a new rear main seal, pilot bearing and check the clutch and TO bearing. Not worth having the motor/tranny out and not atleast checking the stuff for peace of mind.

Good luck with the swap. Its pretty straight forward, but beware of the the fact you have to use the early waterpump and non fanclutch fan etc, since the FJ55 3/4 core radiatiors will not work with the fan/fanclutch combo.

-Brett

[Lucy_FJ55]

Originally Posted by cruiserbrett

You can use the split case and have an OEM toyota parking brake on the t-case, but it costs about $400 for parts, and you have to tear down the t-case on top of that.

if it were a daily driver, I would only use the split case if it had the spacer as the later ones so you could upgrade to an H55F later. I do think you will need to shorten the rear DS, and possibly lengthen the front, IIRC. Also, I wouldnt worry about trying to locate, drill and tap the hole in the bellhousing, just swap them out, then you can get in to put a new rear main seal, pilot bearing and check the clutch and TO bearing. Not worth having the motor/tranny out and not atleast checking the stuff for peace of mind.

Good luck with the swap. Its pretty straight forward, but beware of the the fact you have to use the early waterpump and non fanclutch fan etc, since the FJ55 3/4 core radiatiors will not work with the fan/fanclutch combo.

-Brett

Thanks Brett! Exactly what I have been looking for. This answers a couple questions for me. I had begun to realize recently that I may not be able to use the fan clutch setup on the newer engine from reading someone else's post here in the 55 section. Now I know. More stuff to swap and more gaskets to replace...

[Lucy_FJ55]

Originally Posted by Lucy_FJ55

O.K. Go easy on me, this may sound stoopid.

So, I need to remove the distributor and I have searched and read a bit about the proper procedure. Before I go yanking stuff out, I assumed I should mark the dist. position. Most folks tell you to check for TDC on the flywheel, etc. I have already taken the flywheel off so what are my options now? Do I just figure out another way to mark the dist? What happens when I go to throw the flywheel back on? Does it only fit one way? I'm asking 'cause I didn't take it off and am now wondering out loud. Advice?

Thanks, Carlos.

Anyone have any advice about removing the distributor?

[warrior_1515]

Got this out of my FSM for a 1F engine. Imagine it is similar if not the same.

1. Pop off distributor cap.
2. Scrive a mark on the distributor housing and the cylinder block indicating the position of the housing in the cylinder block, and scrive another mark on the distributor housing indicating the position of the distributor rotor. These marks can be used a guides when installing the distributor in a correctly timed engine.
3. Remove the distributor clamp bolts, and lift the distributor out the cylinder block. Caution: Do not rotate the crank shaft while the distributor is removed.

Also you mentioned being are concerned about TDC on the flywheel. This is not nearly as imporant as the two marks that are on your timing gears located on the from of the engine. So if all hell breaks loose with the timing, we can pop off that cover and get everything worked out.

HTH,

Dave

[Lucy_FJ55]

Thanks again Dave.

You ROCK!

[cruiserbrett]

The flywheel will only fit on in the correct orientation.

Install the distributor once the flywheel is back on, its much easier and less chance of a timing mistake... very frustrating when you are just about to fire up the engine...

What I would do to install the distributor. 1. Take out the spark plugs(you only need #1 out, but this makes it much easier to turn the engine over.) 2. While turning the engine over in the correct direction(looking at the engine from the front, the crank pulley rotates ) put you finger over the #1 spark plug hole. at some point within two full rotations, you will hear/feel air trying to escape from the number one cylinder. 3. Once you feel the pressure building/escaping by your finger, pay attention to the timing mark(BB or hole where a BB once was) on the flywheel. Stop rotating the crank when the pointer lines up with the timing BB. (Note: technically this is not TDC, but the timing mark which is 7 crankshaft degrees before TDC). Do not rotate the engine further. If you go past this mark, do the same test over again, do not just settle with finding it 1 complete revolution later as this is actually top dead center for the 6 cylinder.
4. Pick up the distributor, and looking at it you want the rotor to aim in between the number 3 and number 4 spark plugs. This rotor position dictates the location the oil pump driveshaft needs to be, and is often about 30 degrees different than the rotor. So, with a long screw driver, turn the oil pump drivehsft so its aiming properly. Take into account that the distributor will rotate clock wise slighty when it drops into place, so there is a little trial and error in this... Check and look at the surface where the o-ring is on the distributor housing. there is a small lip, or perhaps on a later one, the cast boss the reatining screw oges into. this lip, or boss surface needs to seat fully on the block for the distributor to engage the oil pump. Install the distributor but with the rotor aiming a bit more at the #4 cylinder and the vacuum canister aimed towards 4or 5 o'clock if the #3 cylinder is 1 o'clock. It should rotate as it drops in, and seat fully on the block if the oil pump driveshaft engaged. Now depending on whether its points or electronic, you either need to rotate the main body of the distributor a bit so that the points are just opening, on the rise of a lobe on the distributo cam, or if electronic, the tangs on the reluctor ring just about line up wiith the tooth on the pickup. Further timing from there will require engine running, but that should get you started at least.

[Lucy_FJ55]

Got to work on the swap a little recently. Again I had help and motivation from friends. Thanks guys!

Started by draining the oil. We were then able to drop the oil pan and remove the gasket on the donor engine. Also removed and replaced the rear main seal. While we were in there we of course replaced the pilot bearing. Both my buddy and I had swapped pilot bearing horror stories and were debating how to go about removing this typically stubborn piece. We then both recalled the tales of using grease to pop this bearing out and basically mocked the authors as being 'tall-tale' spinners. Anyway, Dave gave it a shot and the sucka' popped right out. I was still thinking of ways to conveinently destroy the thing in place and then rip it out piece by piece, as we both had done in the past. We were both shocked but it actually does work quite well. By the way, we damaged the new bearing housing when we installed the pilot bearing. Seems to still spin more freely then the one that was in there but should I go ahead and replace that one again?

We also debated about how to remove the clutch, flywheel, and bellhousing off the orig. seized engine. The difficulty being the fact that the engine is seized makes it near impossible to get to all the bolts tucked up under the belhousing. So it appears we will have to hoist that old engine up and remove the pan and loosen the main bearing bolts (?) and free up the crankshaft in order to rotate everything in order to get to all the bolts. Fun, eh! Anyone have any better ideas?

Thought I would share a couple pics of the fun. Mostly boring pics of the exposed 2F guts...

[n2666s]

Carlos, I'm ignorant; and have had the devil of a time removing pilot brearings in the past!!.........how did you get the pilot bearing to pop out using grease?

Lou

[Lucy_FJ55]

My buddy Dave had actually come up with this technique and tried it out. We had both heard of folks using some sort of fitting to squeeze grease through the center of the pilot bearing while maintaining a 'tight seal' which should pop the bearing out. So, he basically grabbed a tub of grease and used a putty knife to scoop and stuff grease through the small center of the pilot bearing as much as possible. When it was pretty full he then grabbed a socket that was just smaller than the center opening of the bearing. He wrapped electric tape around the socket and that created the 'tight seal' and then placed it in the center of the bearing. Next he grabbed a hammer and give it a few taps and the pressure of the grease squeezing behind the bearing poped it out quickly and left it in one piece.

Of course, you may also be able to rent/borrow a bearing puller tool from a mechanic or a Napa-type auto store. However, I have never found one that would work properly or fit unfortunately.

Digression...
"Why did the walrus go to the Tupperware party?"

"He was looking for a 'tight seal'!"

Hee, hee. I couldn't resist.

[n2666s]

awsome!....thanks for this great tip;

Lou

[Lucy_FJ55]

By the way, I have also heard many folks say the 'grease' method sucks for popping out pilot bearings. Some people have had the face of the bearing pop out while splattering grease in their face and everywhere else. So try it, you might get lucky. It worked for us and was a cinch.

[tyama]

I have heard/read about using a carriage bolt with with part of the top ground off so it barely fits through the center hole. Place a socket over it (it should have a diameter that the pilot beaing will fit it), then a big washer with a nut following. The idea is that as you tighten the nut, the bolt head catches the inside of the pilot bearing and pulls it out toward, and into the socket. I've never tried it, but will next time I do a clutch job. It's basically what a pilot bearing puller does. HTH, ty

[Lucy_FJ55]

Baby steps...

Finally removed the distributor from the donor '81 2F and threw it into a box along with the matching '81 coil/ignitor, my '77 carb, and an '83-'84 carb and sent it all out to Jim C. at TLC Performance back in Ohio. He will be rebuilding and desmogging my '77 carb using parts from the other carb to creat a 'bionic' carb. Distributor will be recurved and matched. Can't wait.

Also, seperated the '81 intake and brought it to the Napa machine shop for them to clean up and inspect it for me. It should be done next week. Here is a pic of the rest of the new goodies, including the resurfaced flywheel the machine shop cleaned up for me. It's been bitter cold lately and I haven't been motivated to wrench in my barely insulated/non-heated garage. Hope to get something done soon...

[Lucy_FJ55]

Originally Posted by Lucy_FJ55

We also debated about how to remove the clutch, flywheel, and bellhousing off the orig. seized engine. The difficulty being the fact that the engine is seized makes it near impossible to get to all the bolts tucked up under the belhousing. So it appears we will have to hoist that old engine up and remove the pan and loosen the main bearing bolts (?) and free up the crankshaft in order to rotate everything in order to get to all the bolts holding the bellhousing onto the engine. Fun, eh! Anyone have any better ideas?

I asked this question earlier but am still wondering... Anyone have any good ideas about this? If not, I will be tearing apart that other engine soon.

Thanks everybody! Carlos.

[FJ40Jim]

I asked this question earlier but am still wondering... Anyone have any good ideas about this? If not, I will be tearing apart that other engine soon.

Carlos,
Just checking in on your thread per your request. Looking good so far.

To get the junk engine apart, first remove the head. This is easy because you do not have to remove the manifolds or t-stat. Just rem,ove the rocker, pushrods and then impact out the headbolts and yank it off there.

Next, knock the much lighter engine over and then flip it the rest of the way so it is sitting upside down on the block deck. You will now find out how good a job you did draining the oil & coolant. Impact the oil pan bolts out and proceed to destroy the oil pan. Then loosen all the rod caps, making sure that the welded rods are actually knocked free from the crank. See if the crank turns now.

If it turns, proceed as normal, removing clutch, flywheel and BH.

If it still wont turn, then remove all the main caps and lever upward on the crank to break it free of the welded main bearing. Now turn the crank.

And now you've got the engine broken into bite size pieces that can go to the dump or machine shop without need of a forklift.

[Lucy_FJ55]

Sweet. Thank you very much for the detailed response Jim. I'll get right on it.

[Lucy_FJ55]

Got a little done on the swap today...

I managed to finish up a couple odds and ends. I tightened the oil pan bolts, swapped out the oil filter for a new one, and topped off the engine with fresh oil. Scraped a bunch of crap off the engine and cleaned it up a bit looking for the engine number. Removed the newer style '81 fuel pump and replaced it with a near-new older style fuel pump. Swapped out the fuel hard lines. removed both water pumps/thermo housings and crap off both engines. Cleaned up old gasket material from the water pump, intake/exhaust manifold, and other spots. Installed fluid heat riser to the just cleaned up intake manifold.Test fit headers and intake manifold.

Here are a couple pics of my intake manifold after I picked it up from the machine shop. It was warped so I had it resurfaced and cleaned up as well.

[Lucy_FJ55]

So the donor block is quite a bit more rusty than the original and I noticed a bunch of rust and carbon deposits where the intake and headers mate to the head. Should I be alarmed? What do you folks think I should do about it? If anything? Slap it back together? Or?

[warrior_1515]

Manifold looks great

I would sand down the head surface a little before you put new gaskets on there. won't hurt anything by doing it.

Keep up the great work.

Dave