Wanted: complete A/C setup for a 1971 FJ55

motomodz · 06-01-09, 09:57 PM

I am a little tight on funds right now but, I am putting my feelers out there for a COMPLETE Air conditioning setup for my 1971 FJ55 with stock F155 engine and 3 spd trans (column if that matters).........e-mail me with pics, description and price of what you have too carsncards@comcast.net thanks!! -Lee

cruiserbrett · 06-03-09, 09:09 PM

Having bought and installed OEM a/c into my fj55; some advice: skip the OEM compressor and condensor( in front of radiator). all the electronics and underdash stuff is fine for re-use. the old compressor and primative condensor arent worth the time. When, and not IF your compressor craps out, there are NO service parts for them. I used the original noisy CC2M nippondenso compressor for about two months before it let out all the r12 in the system... went to a sanden 508 and custom brackets and now its quiet and blows 37 degree outlet temp...

Get a modern compressor and new condensor and use OEM parts inside to keep the old school look in the interior...

motomodz · 06-03-09, 11:50 PM

Brett, thanks a ton for the advice! Can you provide part numbers for the condenser and compressor that you upgraded too? Are those components from a specific vehicle? thanks! -Lee

....for anyone that views this thread......I need all of the parts, except the condenser and compressor! I want to retain a stock look to the interior but want it too work as close too a modern system as possible.....thanks! -Lee

cruiser_guy · 06-04-09, 07:44 AM

Brett, why not the OEM condensor? Mine works just fine on the '55. I had to get a different compressor since I run the 3B but the A/C blows nice and cold and has since installation.

cruiserbrett · 06-05-09, 12:32 AM

I guess it comes down to:

cleaning the old condenser is a pain, and you have to get all the old mineral oil out when converting to r134a, since r12 is stoopid expensive stateside.

I havent seen one OEM condenser that is not damaged, ie bent fins, corrosion etc, all which reduce its efficiency...

since r134a is much cheaper, it makes sense to convert from r12. the parallel flow condensers are more efficient for use with r134a, than the old serpentine single pass.

Oring fittings are much better at sealing when used with r134a. getting rid of as many flare fittings as possible reduces the chance of leaks.(not as much an issue with r12 since the molecules are something like 100 times larger and generally much less leak prone)

so, in a nut shell, if you are converting to r134a, its almost a must. If staying with r12, and the OEM one is in good shape, keep it.

motomodz: I got a sanden 508 from parr automotive. I had a OEM mount for it I modified, but vintage air, and others sell sanden 508 mounts for both F and 2F motors. condensor from acsource.com IIRC, cant recall a part number but just measured for one to fit. as for the hose sets, but let the local shop pick the fittings(you will need #6 and #10 90degree beadlock flare fittings for the OEM underdash unit, and a multitude of o-ring fittings) its just as cheap as buying a hose "kit" and getting stuff you dont need. you will need to pay for crimping anyhow. for the reciever/dryer, a generic one with a binary switch and o-ring fittings will be fine.

cruiser_guy · 06-05-09, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruiserbrett

I guess it comes down to:

cleaning the old condenser is a pain, and you have to get all the old mineral oil out when converting to r134a, since r12 is stoopid expensive stateside.

I havent seen one OEM condenser that is not damaged, ie bent fins, corrosion etc, all which reduce its efficiency...

since r134a is much cheaper, it makes sense to convert from r12. the parallel flow condensers are more efficient for use with r134a, than the old serpentine single pass.

Oring fittings are much better at sealing when used with r134a. getting rid of as many flare fittings as possible reduces the chance of leaks.(not as much an issue with r12 since the molecules are something like 100 times larger and generally much less leak prone)

so, in a nut shell, if you are converting to r134a, its almost a must. If staying with r12, and the OEM one is in good shape, keep it.

Interesting! The '55 is running R134A simply for ease of service. I told the A/C guy in Guatemala that I needed a system that was serviceable in Canada and the states as he originally was going to use some other R12 substitute that is not legal in Canada/USA.