Wilma's Buildup thread - FJ45LV

fogblanket · 06-19-06, 04:35 PM

thanks Nick got me just in time will do the wiggle technique. i didn't really try and push it inafter i got hte splines to line up. will give that a worel next will keep you posted.
Jason

fogblanket · 06-28-06, 06:09 AM

ok I have made some progress. the transimission/transfer case is in. i bolted the crossmember to the bottom of the transission and jacked it up but as you will see int he pictures it hits the frame at an angle. I don't want to stress my new tranny mount too much is just bolting it flat and lettig the angle slack be taken up in the rubber isolater portion of the mount going to cause to much fatigue in it or should i keep it angled?

fogblanket · 06-28-06, 06:10 AM

2 more once i get it all position perfectly then it will all get welded up .

merbesfield · 06-28-06, 06:22 AM

no expert here, but can't you weld the mounts at the same angle as the crossmember?

zebrabeefj40 · 06-28-06, 12:52 PM

Bolting it up flat is not gonna cause a problem IMOH. Junk has been running his that way for almost a year with no issues.

HTH,
Nick

fogblanket · 07-09-06, 06:26 PM

thanks nick that is what i did. just bolted it up . as it turned out the passenger side was level anyway and the drivers sidewas really only a 1/4" off.

so I have been making progress on wilma since i last posted. with so many pm's from Mersfield i have n't had time to post updates on Wilma

so the tranny is all bolted up and in the brakets were welded in and it is solid.

I then worked on some of the body. i cut out the rust above the window frame ont he drivers side tat was caused by dater leaking through the rain gutter and the top.. I have this issue on the passenger side too. but i got the drivers side done, flapper wheeled smooth and a light coat of bondo to get it smooth. it came out nice. I took some picturs but they are not very good. i did the rear drivers side cargo window as well that had some water leakage damage as well.
the last few days i have been spraying on some high biuld primer on the roof and sandinng it down. I have dowe this about 6 times or so and a few spot areas of bondo to fill in some grooves. but it is coming out baby mooth . I plan on putting the SEM rain gutter sealer in the gutters to prevent the water leaks again..
well thats it for right now. more and pics hopefult this week.
Jason

merbesfield · 07-09-06, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fj6202840

I plan on putting the SEM rain gutter sealer in the gutters to prevent the water leaks again..
well thats it for right now. more and pics hopefult this week.
Jason

be careful with what you put in the rain gutters. i have one LV that someone really f@#%&*ked up buy puting in sealer crap and it only rusted worse. i know that is not what you will be doing, but i think smoother is better than anything rough that can hold water and mud from washing out.

treerootCO · 07-10-06, 12:08 AM

The SEM product is what Matt used and it turned out great.

merbesfield · 07-10-06, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treerootCO

The SEM product is what Matt used and it turned out great.

but not on the roof?

treerootCO · 07-10-06, 12:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by merbesfield

but not on the roof?

post 2274

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...er#post1083807

merbesfield · 07-10-06, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treerootCO

post 2274

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...er#post1083807

thanks for refering to that. i had forgotten. i need to email matt and ask him if he used that b/c he had to do so much work and spot welding to put his roof back together and wheter he would recomend it for a roof that was not a wreck like his? my roof is really nice, very fortunate, just light surface rust only. if my roof was like matt's i would definately not have even bothered with what he went thru. what an amazing amount of effort to restore just that roof alone. of course he had no choice. one of the first things i did was tear into the headliner area to see what i had to deal with. thankfully, nothing but nice old foam with shiney metal under it.

Mike, thanks for all the advice. being a newbie, i have a lot to learn about these very special LV's. regards, Mark

fogblanket · 07-14-06, 01:30 PM

O k back on subject. Wilma
got some time in this week . got the rest (back half) of the frame primed and painted. using the ppg epoxy primer and the chasis black extreme undercarriage paint from Eastwood's while i have the tub jacked up I plan to hit the tail end underside with a coat of the SEM truckbedliner. got my truck bed liner spray gun yesterday so I am amp-ed to use it. I am going to try it out on my CDN M101 bed first. will post pics of the befores and after of that.
I have been lame about my camera recently, but I have been putting some quality time in with Wilma.
Also got my fuel tank back today from the re-tankers. the outside was not in bad shape but after Matt's posts on his tank I decided to be careful and sent it in. they took about a month from me sending it until I got it back. it cost $379 they pulled the top off and cleaned and replaced anything that looked like rust then coated it. it was more expensive than normal in that our tanks have 4 baffles and they had to get to each one.
again I will take pics when I get the box opened up when i get home tonight.
again sorry for no pictures will get some up later
Jason

Mikesta · 07-14-06, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fj6202840

O k back on subject. Wilma
got some time in this week . got the rest (back half) of the frame primed and painted. using the ppg epoxy primer and the chasis black extreme undercarriage paint from Eastwood's while i have the tub jacked up I plan to hit the tail end underside with a coat of the SEM truckbedliner. got my truck bed liner spray gun yesterday so I am amp-ed to use it. I am going to try it out on my CDN M101 bed first. will post pics of the befores and after of that.
I have been lame about my camera recently, but I have been putting some quality time in with Wilma.
Also got my fuel tank back today from the re-tankers. the outside was not in bad shape but after Matt's posts on his tank I decided to be careful and sent it in. they took about a month from me sending it until I got it back. it cost $379 they pulled the top off and cleaned and replaced anything that looked like rust then coated it. it was more expensive than normal in that our tanks have 4 baffles and they had to get to each one.
again I will take pics when I get the box opened up when i get home tonight.
again sorry for no pictures will get some up later
Jason

NEED PICTURES... GASP

krzyabncanuck · 07-14-06, 02:59 PM

Did they take any pics of the inside of the tank for you? I would like to see that if they did .

Glad it is still going forward for you.

fogblanket · 07-14-06, 06:11 PM

thanks krzyabncanuck
I have been meaning to post how great yours looks it has given me serious lpb envy. i really like how yours is shaping up. i actually use your thread as a gauge as to how far along I am in that i sww how many posts you have on yours and compare the number to mine

Ok on tot he pics first is the roof can't really see how much work has gone into it but i know thats what matters right??
the next shot is the tranny in and the painted frame most of the floor pan you see is going soon .
and then a shoot from underneath of the painted frame with the body lowered back on it after painting.

fogblanket · 07-14-06, 06:15 PM

ok this next series of shots is on the tank. first ist he box that it came in . next is what I found inside the box (ie styrafoam peanuts that subsequently spread out over my yard due to a gust of wind.

then some shots of the tank and a close up of the top so you can see the texture of the rubberized coating they put on inside and out. very cool stuf and very nice work. i am pleased.

fogblanket · 07-14-06, 06:18 PM

three more

fogblanket · 07-14-06, 06:41 PM

ok these next shots are of the truck bed liner SEM stuff and the bedliner gun aas well as a cool idea i got to lighten up an old 2 car garage (ie my workshop) that is to staple tyveck strips in between the rafters. really lightend things up.
last is our new RAV4 while not a 4 wheeler it does have 4 wheel drive and is a great car to haul my kids and family. and its a toytota

krzyabncanuck · 07-15-06, 06:04 AM

Thanks for the pics of the tank, looks like it came out really nice. One day i might have to get mine professionally done. It was just not in the cards for this time.

Good to see someone else roughing it by building it in the garage.

fogblanket · 07-15-06, 06:15 AM

i am pleased with the tank.
doing it in the garage is kind of tough but nice to have it at home. i keep getting in trouble for not moving the baby buggy out when I paint or clean

because of my garage limitations it is taking me longer than it prolly should but I am having fun.
So my plans as they stand right now are to get the body work done. then alittle engine work get it all back together once on the road, drive it and then figure out what i want to do for the suspension. the only time I have been behind the wheel was rolling it around Mike's house and again backing it off the trailor. so I want to see how it drives.
Jason

buckroseau · 07-15-06, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fj6202840

ok these next shots are of the truck bed liner SEM stuff and the bedliner gun

Make sure the gun you got has a 1/2" orfice and pick up tube where the product comes out. I tried a gun with a 3/8" opening first years ago and it doesn't work. SEM will also recomend a 1/2" gun.

Just don't want you to catalize all that material and come to find out you can't get it on?

Matt

fogblanket · 07-16-06, 05:51 PM

thanks Matt i sprayed yesterday before i lgot your post i went back and measured the gun and its 1/2" i guess i got lucky

i did get a couple of coats on underside of the tub and i also sprayed the bed of my M101 CDN 1/4 ton trailor. my pics aren't great (they never are

) but you can see how it looks for the most part.
it shoot pretty well out of the gun kind of like a constent buckshot effect i had good flow. there is no way to really adjust the gun unlike my hplv gun so I can see why it is important to have a gun that shots properly. i am pleased with the results and will do the underside of the fenders and the main floor pan when it gets here as well. not sure how much more it will harden but it has a rubbery rhino liner type feel unlike the durebek stuff I had on the tub of my old fj40 which was really hard.
Jason

fogblanket · 07-16-06, 05:53 PM

one more of the trailor

fogblanket · 07-24-06, 07:28 PM

got some time in on wilma this week end and tonight between tiling my back entrance and designing my kids tree house and working up a lumber order for that project.

anyway i decided to get as much undercoated as I could so i first dove into the wheel wells last week removed the shield thingy that protects the exposed area between the underside of the fender and the outer body edge. intersting setup wonder why they moved away from this setup for the fj40s would have made the fenders on them last longer. anyway the pics of my work on the rear fenders did not come out

but the first pick is of the fender coated in the bedliner of which i got 3 coats in on each side. i will say thank you to atleast 2 PO ago (the last owner just tore everything apart) in that there was alayer so thick of under coating on most of the wheel wells that it was all still fresh from the last time someone did body work , which i am geussing was in the early 80's sometime.

I also dragged the front fenders out of the basment which were blasted stripped and primed last fall and put a couple coats on the underside of them as well. now i just need to high build prime them and sand them smooth.

I have been contemplating using this stuff on the inside floor boards in that i was going to dynamat extreme them anyway anyone know how bedliner works as sound proofing. i have the dynamat extreme stuff in the whole interior of my fj62 and it made a huge different. i could actually hear the stereo on the way to the trail with 35" swappers.
Jason

fogblanket · 07-24-06, 07:31 PM

the next project i started working on tonight was tearing everything off the engine. the engine is a n 87 2f from an fj60 which I plan on sending the carb and distributor to Jim C to get tuned . desmogged and run some ceramic headers. i have already picked up alot of the parts for this like the headers and an early f aircleaner. but i still need to get the carb and distributor off and to Jim C for rebuild. then get it all back together and running

fogblanket · 07-24-06, 07:33 PM

the pics of what I am starting with

fogblanket · 07-24-06, 07:35 PM

got alot of stuff of the other side only thing noticable in this pic is the air cleaner is gone. but i will keep updating the progress

fogblanket · 07-31-06, 11:13 AM

got some more time in on Wilma this week end. got some more stuff stripped out of the engine area for the most part its all straight forward but I had some questions. I am running an 87 2f so the only thing I really need to save wireing wise is the lights and instrument wireing. well some of it anyway. but the area circle in the first pic is part of the stock heater (I think) is this going to work with whatever heater I swap in? or am i better of starting from scratch and can anyone make a good recommendation as to what heater i should use.
- my 2f came with an ac pump is this worth rebuilding and using or am I better off, if I decide i want AC to go another route?
theoretically I would like to set up a system that uses the same vents for both heat and ac. i am really not wild about the extra expense that ac is going to add but where I live it is so moinst that ac is a must for defrost.
- and as far as desmogging goes the top circle gets pluggd into the aircleaner but what about the larger circled area. this hose outlet has 2 outlets and is ported off the top of the head next to an air rail fitting. both hoses were not conected so I have no clue if i can plug it up.
lastly i spun her around in the garage so the engine is closer to the door now so i can clean it and work on it a bit easier also i have some body work to do on the passenger side now which will be closer to the welder.
Jason

fogblanket · 07-31-06, 11:14 AM

and one of her spun around

foxfab · 07-31-06, 12:33 PM

If I remeber, Wilma, had some aftermarket heater setup.

I believe what you have circled is the vacume actuator for the stock t-case. You don't need it since you're using the floor shifted 4 speed split case.

One of the hoses off the back of the head is a heater hose. Not sure about the other.