[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by orangefj45

back to the wiring question. the transmission needs to have power supplied to it in order for the converter to go into lock-up. when the brake pedal is depressed, power gets interrupted and the converter will come out of lock-up mode.

I'm thinking that switch is going to work for all 3 applications. I've got a buddy in the auto business, he's going to swing over tonight or tomorrow and take a look, but he thought that switch would work for all 3 also after seeing it.

I have a plan for mounting it also. The switches threads are 1/2" - 20 (fine thread) Initially I was thinking of just drilling out the existing brake mount/nut there and tap to the new 1/2" threads.....but,........After looking at that, there is not enough room to thread the new switch in, the spades and a little bit of the switch hit metal mounts below it. SO...... I am going to drill a new 1/2" hole directly above the existing brake switch mount and weld a fine thread nut onto the steel. Essentially will be the same set up as the stock mount, but 3/4" higher and set up for a 1/2" fine thread switch.

Matt

[orangefj45]

sounds good as long as the pedal has enough throw to activate the switch that high up. then again, you can adjust the switch closer or further away from the pedal since it's threaded.

[BMAN]

Originally Posted by buckroseau

Geezz.... Thanks for all the pics guys, man that was quick

I may need that stuff BMAN, I'll take a look and see if I have one. I had a few parts floating around when I got it, can't remember if I had that.

I need to mount a jack. The lug nut handle will still mount in the stock clips in the floor, but my jack location is gone. I was kinda thinking of making some sort of mount that came off that area to hold the jack. It was either that or make a mount and weld it to the floor, but I thought the spare tire area would be an ideal location?

Thanks, Matt

Hilift? If so ou could prolly come up with something along the 1/4 just below the window area.

[buckroseau]

Well, kinda all over the place tonight for about 3.5 hours.

Started off the night and installed the 700R4 lock up kit I got from Painless. I was kinda nervous about doing this myself since it involved removing solenoids, presure swithes and wiring, but it was totally painless Figured I was playing around the Tranny, installed the Lokar tranny dipstick, easy. Also, cut the kickdown cable per instructions and got that installed. Put the pan back on, don't think I need to go in there again.

Installed that switch as mentioned before. I drilled a 1/2" hole and used a 1/2 bolt threaded into the nut and through the hole to make sure it was aligned while I welded it, didn't want to melt the plastic switch. Let that cool down, threaded jam nut on the switch and thread it into the new mount. Seems to work perfect, plenty of room for adjustment and engages the switch perfect.

Pulled the brake master cylinder out of the 79, just to make sure that fit. I think I'm going to have to remove all the brake lines on the firewall on the 79 and make sure there are holes and threaded boss's to fasten the lines to the firewall. When I was removing the master cylinder there were more attachment points on the firewall for those lines than I thought.

I moved the Rostra cruise control unit to where the factory Toyota iginition coil would be mounted on the fender. Reason: Instructions said not to me any closer than 10" to the iginition coil. My coil is in the distributor and where it was before was about 8". Not sure how critical that measurement is?? I mounted the presure switch for the lock up on the firewall, still can be changed, any opinions on this?????

Installed the linkage on the Lokar shift unit to the tranny, also installed the indicator module on the pan to the tranny shifter.

Few other misc. things, probalby go pull brake lines off the 79 tomorrow night and start working on those.

Matt

[buckroseau]

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[orangefj45]

do you plan on running some sort of breather line on the transmission vent?


the last time i used a painless lockup kit i mounted the vacuum switch on the back of one of the cylinder heads; out of sight. did'nt want the firewall to get too cluttered and tried to hide all the wiring as much as possible......

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by orangefj45

do you plan on running some sort of breather line on the transmission vent?


the last time i used a painless lockup kit i mounted the vacuum switch on the back of one of the cylinder heads; out of sight. did'nt want the firewall to get too cluttered and tried to hide all the wiring as much as possible......

Not sure on the first thing you mentioned, didn't know I needed to?

I don't really like the vacuum switch where it's at the firewall either, looks like crap.

I actually wouldn't mind it if the cruise control unit was back in those holes on the firewall, I would probably leave it there on top of the bracket. I would look more in place with that black box kinda over shadowing it.

Not sure if 8" is to close to the coil though?

Matt

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by BMAN

Hilift? If so ou could prolly come up with something along the 1/4 just below the window area.

No, it will be a small hydraulic jack. I was thinking that the spare tire carrier cover that I am going to sew it up would cover the tire and the jack at the same time

Matt

[Poser]

Lookin' great Matt!

[zebrabeefj40]

I like the cruise box on the fender better myself. Looked pretty ugly on that mounting strap on the firewall IMHO... Why not move the kickdown gizmo to the coil bracket next to the box?

On the brake lines: Man-e-Fre and Cruiser Solutions both sell SS brake line kits for '75ish and newer FJ40's. You might look into that and see if it would make your job easier/better. I installed a set on a '76 FJ40 I'm building and for the most part they fit and look great. Since you're using '79 FJ40 parts the lines should fit right up other than the line to the rear might be a little short. But then since you're running an auto the included clutch line could supply the material to stretch the rear line as needed...

HTH,
Nick

[buckroseau]

Getting off the other subjects here again, but might be pulling the doors off this weekend. They won't be going back on again until the inside is painted and jammed int the doors. So, I need to mark the paint line on the doors, since I will have to paint the 2 colors in the jams when the doors are off.

I kinda know where to go with the line, should be a no brainer. But, still thought I would ask and get a couple #'s from different people if possible, just to compare.

If anyone has any stockers with decent paint can I get a # from the the bottom of the drip rail to the paint line (run the tape up against the bottom of the rail, not hooking the top). Roughly in the ball park which I show in the pic?

Thanks, Matt

[orangefj45]

imho the cruise control box looks out of place on the firewall. if it were me, i'd try my hardest to hide it inside the rig under the dash although by now i'm sure that real estate comes at a premium, if there's any room left at all under there.

back to the trans vent. assuming that you're not going to do any serious wheeling with the LV and won't be fording any water deeper than maybe a foot, you really don't need to run a breather tube. however, running one might still come in handy and here's why: if you overfill the automatic trans or it overheats for some reason, the trans will "vent". it's a term for an auto expelling fluid thru the vent when too much fluid or pressure builds up inside. normally, you'll loose a quart or two and it comes shooting out of the vent in a hurry, coating the underside of your rig nicely. running a vent line down low will prevent that from ever happening and make cleanup that much easier. chances are you'll never have that happen but we all know how that goes........

[treerootCO]

None of my LVs have stock paint on the side. The closest place I could measure is in the rear of the rear doorjam just below the striker.

plus or minus about 1/64th of an inch (measured from the bottom of the rain gutter)

**ends up right at 63cm if you convert it to metric **

[buckroseau]

Not a ton done tonight, but not much left to do

Went out and "tried" to remove the brake lines on the 79, yea.....they just twisted right off, rusted solid. So new lines it is!! I got the junction block out of the frame on the 79 and cleaned it in the parts washer. One of the holes was already factory in the 45 frame, lined up perfect?? Marked the front one, so when the body's off I will drill and tap that one. I took measurements of the brake line mounting points on the 79 and transfered them to the LV. Drilled all those holes, that's going to have to be good enough now until after paint.

Got the Lokar cruise control cable today. Installed it on the Rostra unit and then on the carb end. Had to take some stuff apart again, but everything fits really nice, it should work well. I probably will end up shorting the cable when it comes to final install.

Going to mount that lock out presure switch on the back side of the drivers side cylinder head as Georg suggested, got to get a bolt tomorrow. Out of sight out of mind since that thing looks poor.

I marked the edges of all the holes that need to be welded up on the firewall, quite a few.

Anything I'm forgetting???????????????????????

It's now or never? I'm going to string a line and mark the doors and tailgate for 2 tone paint. I don't want to forget anything??

Might pull the body this weekend??

Matt

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[orangefj45]

looks like you've got your work cut out for you on the firewall hole plugging.

this thread is too addictive. everytime i get an email notification i just have to read up on the latest updates.

[buckroseau]

2 large holes on the passenger side for the wiring harness to come through.


Speedo cable hole and parking brake hole.



Matt

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by orangefj45

looks like you've got your work cut out for you on the firewall hole plugging.

this thread is too addictive. everytime i get an email notification i just have to read up on the latest updates.

I'm thinking the hole plugging won't take to long, probalby a couple hours.



That's good that you read it often, I'm moving pretty fast and expect any responses from others fast also

Matt

[orangefj45]

i just look at the purdy pictures, i recon i ain't readin' so fast!:hillbilly

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by treerootCO

None of my LVs have stock paint on the side. The closest place I could measure is in the rear of the rear doorjam just below the striker.

plus or minus about 1/64th of an inch (measured from the bottom of the rain gutter)

**ends up right at 63cm if you convert it to metric **

How did I know that you would be the first guy to post this Mike

Thanks, should have some marks on it tomorrow.

Matt

[treerootCO]

I have OE paint on the inside of the tailgate and here is a pick of Wilma that you can see where the paint lines run.

Measured inside the rear tailgate just below the striker from the bottom of the drip rail = 25 7/16th or 64.7cm

[Radd Cruisers]

Nice smooth arc to the cruise control throttle cable.

THe unit I installed on a diesel which is different due to the vacume issues, would not work above 65MPH?

Looking real clean.

Rob

[buckroseau]

Pretty good day on the LV today. Had some other stuff to do this afternoon, so the better portion of the morning was stripping the LV down. Removing all the stuff on the firewall and dash, removing doors, tailgates, etc..... Didn't get any pics of that stuff, figured you saw it go in, didn't need to see it coming out

Few pics of the body coming back off again. Nothing spectacular, but went really good. I guess it should since it's been on the rottiserri before, all the bolts were fresh and new. Only took a little over an hour and it was back on.

Start welding up the firewall tomorrow and body work on the bottom side of the drip rail.

Matt

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[74fj40]

wow!! i am stunned, i just re-went through this whole thread. you are truly an artist!!! how soon untill paint?