[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by orangefj45

you'll prolly have to run 2 switches. one stocker and the painless dual action switch. the painless switch has one open circuit when the switch is actuated and one closed circuit. and vise versa when the switch is in idle position of course.....

Is the switch threaded into the bracket? Just want to make sure, hard to tell. I'm going to have to look at my box of parts, but I don't think mine was there? Might want a new and improved one anyway?

Which switch do I run my cruise control into, to kick it off?

Please bear with me on the questions, totally new ground for me

PS, Georg, got the plates, thanks!! Your product shipped today to from here

Thanks, Matt

[orangefj45]

thanks bud!

i guess you could just run the painless switch if all you nedd to do is supply/interrupt voltage going wherever.

[orangefj45]

forgot to mention, i'm pretty sure the factory switch threads in all the way at the top of the pedal towards the dash. this is what it looks like from the inside of the cab with the gauge cluster removed. i just took this pic utilizing my 63 FJ40 as an example. pretty dam sure the LVs use the same setup.

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by orangefj45

thanks bud!

i guess you could just run the painless switch if all you nedd to do is supply/interrupt voltage going wherever.

Pic of the painless switch.

Read the Note: that is from the instructions from the lock up kit.

Is there another cruise control switch I need?


Matt

[orangefj45]

that's the one. should work for your application matt.

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by orangefj45

that's the one. should work for your application matt.

Just so I have this straight, all 3 correct: Brake, cruise and lock out?

Sorry for the redundency, just takes a while for kids like me

Thanks, Matt

[orangefj45]

yup, should work. you'll just have to figure out when power is needed/sent and when it's not needed/sent.

here is what i know for sure:

the brake lights only need power when the pedal is depressed and the switch activated. but then again, we all know that one.

the transmission lockup solenoid needs power going to it when the bake is NOT activated.

the cruise control i'd have to guess on, but if you can post a pic of the instructions i'm sure we can get it fingured out. i would assume that it needs power going to it when the brake is not actuated since normally the cruise control function gets canceled out when the brake is activated.
so if i had to take an educated guess, i'd say that the cruise controll and the lockup solenoid in the trans should share the same prongs on the painless switch since they both require power when the brake is not activated.

does that make any sense at all?! i gotta work on my english skillz

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by orangefj45

yup, should work. you'll just have to figure out when power is needed/sent and when it's not needed/sent.

here is what i know for sure:

the brake lights only need power when the pedal is depressed and the switch activated. but then again, we all know that one.

the transmission lockup solenoid needs power going to it when the bake is NOT activated.

the cruise control i'd have to guess on, but if you can post a pic of the instructions i'm sure we can get it fingured out. i would assume that it needs power going to it when the brake is not actuated since normally the cruise control function gets canceled out when the brake is activated.
so if i had to take an educated guess, i'd say that the cruise controll and the lockup solenoid in the trans should share the same prongs on the painless switch since they both require power when the brake is not activated.

does that make any sense at all?! i gotta work on my english skillz

Yes, it does make sense. I guess the main thing is, that if your confident it will work, then I am. Sounds like you know more about it than me.

The main thing is that you/we know it is going to work. Reason being is that I am going to make a bracket or thread it into the existing hole (if it will fit) and that is it. This is all getting taken apart for paint, so as long as I know everything will work when it comes time for re-assembly.

I know I can't see everything, but I am trying to. I just don't want to be welding or grinding into that hi-gloss white paint that is going to be there, because I forgot a switch

Thanks, Matt

[orangefj45]

i would definetly do a "test run" on the switch installation. the painles switch is a lot longer than the factory brake switch. i have used the painless switch in a couple of different setups and they work well.

[buckroseau]

Hopefully this is legible? Cruise control instructions, specificly C and D.

Matt

[Texican]

c Goes to the side of the switch from the fuse box, it should be 12v with the key on...D goes to the wire that gets 12v when the pedal is depressed

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by Texican

c Goes to the side of the switch from the fuse box, it should be 12v with the key on...D goes to the wire that gets 12v when the pedal is depressed

Do you concur that this switch will work for all 3 applications: Brake lights, 700R lock out and cruise control kick out?

Thanks, Matt

[cruiserdan]

Look,


WAAAY TOO MANY posts without a picture of the beast..

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

Look,


WAAAY TOO MANY posts without a picture of the beast..

Happy, just walked out in the garage and took a pic 30 seconds ago

Got home little late from work tonight, thought I would do some thinking and talking with fellow mudders about some technical wiring.......since that's what I gotta do next

Matt

[warrior_1515]

I am curious to know how much installation work you are gonna do before you paint? Is the body coming off the frame when you paint?

Also, when you do paint, are you gonna have the doors on? What are your plans to get the two tone paint to line up between the doors and body pannels?

Dave

[Texican]

Originally Posted by buckroseau

Do you concur that this switch will work for all 3 applications: Brake lights, 700R lock out and cruise control kick out?

Thanks, Matt

I assume........ Georg can clarify, that the 700R4 needs to see 12v to kick the torque converter out, if so, yes this will work, you would just tie the 700 to your terminal D in the above post.
Butch

[Texican]

Originally Posted by buckroseau

and talking with fellow mudders about some technical wiring.......since that's what I gotta do next Matt

Matt, if you think this is technical wiring, I know now why you do not have Fuel Injection..........

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by warrior_1515

I am curious to know how much installation work you are gonna do before you paint? Is the body coming off the frame when you paint?

Also, when you do paint, are you gonna have the doors on? What are your plans to get the two tone paint to line up between the doors and body pannels?

Dave

Good question, answer: Very, very close right now before the body comes back off, maybe a week or 2 away, but don't tell anyone

The body is coming back off just to paint the bottom and also do a little bit of body work all the way around underneath the drip rail, I saved that just so it would be easier and do a nicer job when it is upside down again.

The bottom will be seam sealed first, and not just a little, every edge, crevis, opening, etc....everything will be seam sealed, no metal edge will be left un-touched. Then a light coat of epoxy primer over the seam seal, 2 coats of single stage ureathane in contiental beige, then coated with SEM protex tintable bed liner (Obviously tinted to contiental beige). I use that stuff on my 40 underneath when I restored that 2 years ago, 15k later driving up and down a gravel road, not one chip. I'm sold.........

The main reason for all that is that I'm trying to stop rust right at the door. It's going to be driven, even in the Minnesota road salt, so trying to do what I can.

Probably base/clear underneath the dash when it is upside down. When it's back on the chassis I'll just blend up underneath the dash again, that way I know everything got painted up there.

I think I might wait to explain how the 2 tone paint job is going to be done, very labor intensive and would take a while to explain. To answer your question, the doors will be on when I shoot the outside all at once. But the doors will be off when I spray the inside and 2 tone the door jams first........labor intensive painting....

Matt

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by Texican

Matt, if you think this is technical wiring, I know now why you do not have Fuel Injection..........

Oh......the horror..........the horror..........

No thanks, your smarter than me.....I think???

If I want fuel injection I think edlebrock makes a stand alone bolt on fuel injection kit don't they?? I think you need to morgage your house though to buy it I've heard?

Matt

[Texican]

Originally Posted by buckroseau

Oh......the horror..........the horror..........

No thanks, your smarter than me.....I think???

If I want fuel injection I think edlebrock makes a stand alone bolt on fuel injection kit don't they?? I think you need to morgage your house though to buy it I've heard?

Matt

I ain't no smarter than you, just done this all my life........
My opinion, is that the OEM FI systems are way superior to any aftermarket, and parts are easy to get, nothing custom and expensive....
Butch

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by warrior_1515

I am curious to know how much installation work you are gonna do before you paint? Is the body coming off the frame when you paint?

Also, when you do paint, are you gonna have the doors on? What are your plans to get the two tone paint to line up between the doors and body pannels?

Dave

I've got one other thing that might slow me up around the end of Jan. early Feb.........the user, "Heavylift".........You've proably seen a few posts of his on this thread, basicly a loser , but for some reason I still hang out with him and try to help out when I can.

He is going to consume about 2 weeks of my time during the above mentioned time frame. He's been planning something now for many, many months and I've been his parts bitch for that whole time, right? (I know your reading this)...He called me at work tonight, his ass just landed yesterday back in the good ole USA, after a year in the sandbox......Iraq. He has had the fine pleasure of being P.I.C. of a flying trailer house.....oops, I mean chinnook . All sorts of fun of flying around at night while tracer fire goes past him (and occasionally hits his helicopter), bolts falling through turbine engines that cause fires in flight and forgotten trannsmission seals that cause emergency landings out in the middle of the desert (at night), sounds like band camp

Anyway, guy is originally from here, I worked his ass off when he was in highschool and for some reason we've gotten to be really good buds, so least I can do is try to give him a hand.

So, in a few weeks, in the 40 section.....You will see a 78 BJ40 build up thread start and for 2 weeks, I think he will make project look like it's crawling along. I'm supplying lot of tools: Torches, skid steers to pull bodys outside, ingersoll rand compressors, sandblasters, paintbooths, and some of my time of course and other misc. equip, etc...........

So, that should be more fun

Matt

[warrior_1515]

Originally Posted by buckroseau

Anyway, guy is originally from here, I worked his ass off when he was in highschool and for some reason we've gotten to be really good buds, so least I can do is try to give him a hand.

So, in a few weeks, in the 40 section.....You will see a 78 BJ40 build up thread start and for 2 weeks, I think he will make project look like it's crawling along. I'm supplying lot of tools: Torches, skid steers to pull bodys outside, ingersoll rand compressors, sandblasters, paintbooths, and some of my time of course and other misc. equip, etc...........

So, that should be more fun

Matt

Very cool. After reading all these pages, I am most jealous of this post. Can't say there too many things better than hanging out with an old friend working on a Cruiser.

Dave

[BMAN]

Matt,

On those bearclaw latches you're using for the doors. How much slop is there between the pin and the latch? I have a friend whose thinking about trying to use them as a catch for his tire carrier but we're unsure of whether we will still need some type of rubber snubber in the design to keep it all from jigglin around back there.

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by BMAN

Matt,

On those bearclaw latches you're using for the doors. How much slop is there between the pin and the latch? I have a friend whose thinking about trying to use them as a catch for his tire carrier but we're unsure of whether we will still need some type of rubber snubber in the design to keep it all from jigglin around back there.

A little bit, but not much. Maybe a millimeter or 2?? I think I would still have a rubber bumper or something to stabilize it a bit. On the door when it closes I eventually will have the rubber door gasket for it to push up against.

Matt

[buckroseau]

On another totally off topic subject of what we have been discussing lately.

Does anyone have a pic of the spare tire mounted to the side wall in the back of the LV? Pic of the bracket and that area??

Got an idea for something, but need to see what it supposed look like, since I never had one.

Thanks, Matt

[orangefj45]

here's a crummy pic. i can get in there and pull the spare in a couple of hours if that'll help.

[orangefj45]

back to the wiring question. the transmission needs to have power supplied to it in order for the converter to go into lock-up. when the brake pedal is depressed, power gets interrupted and the converter will come out of lock-up mode.

[warrior_1515]

here is one from treeroot's site.

[BMAN]

Do ya need a mount? I've got a spare minus the elongated plate. It's the mount and the big ole wingnut. I'll shoot some pics when I get home.

[buckroseau]

Geezz.... Thanks for all the pics guys, man that was quick

I may need that stuff BMAN, I'll take a look and see if I have one. I had a few parts floating around when I got it, can't remember if I had that.

I need to mount a jack. The lug nut handle will still mount in the stock clips in the floor, but my jack location is gone. I was kinda thinking of making some sort of mount that came off that area to hold the jack. It was either that or make a mount and weld it to the floor, but I thought the spare tire area would be an ideal location?

Thanks, Matt