[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

Any particular reason you did not bother to label them before dis-assembly?..

That is Resto-101, at least it was in 1986 when I started doing it....

Mistake......of course. Didn't see the #'s because of rust and paint, and I assumed which was wrong of me, that they were all the same. They sure look like it from 2 feet away? Once I started blasting and the #'s became apparent I realized that I may have a problem. 2nd, anything I do in my life as far as projects go, I kick ass and try to take names later. Hey, the air was fresh, compressor fully charged, air tools fired up and parts are a flying.... Right or wrong, just the way I do it. Just trying to gett'ir done!!!

Will this be the last mistake I make on this project, hell no. I'm sure there are many, many more to come and fortunetly I have the help of many fellow mudders to get me through my stupidity

And if you have an antique microfish of these hinges that would explain the # system and order.............of course that would be unbelievable and much appreciated if you could share with the group.

Thanks, Matt

[Mikesta]

How are those bushings working out? Cant wait to see the results... and hope they are still available to purchase... if they are available.

by the way.. how in the world did you get the lv on that trailer with the rotisery and how did you secure it... looked like a top heavy accident waiting to happen... I actually shriveled in my chair when I saw the first pic. Glad it got there... expose the secrets!!! No jedi mind tricks though

[buckroseau]

Oh yes, the hinge thing has not gone away yet. I have a little more insight to this now. I brought the hinges into work this morning to take a closer look and pin them together. This is what I'm observing.

Hinges 1,2,3,4 if laid flat in line with each other all have the same pin distance from the mounting surface to the pin center.

Hinges 5,6,7,8 if laid flat in line with each other all have the same pin distance from the mounting surface to the pin center.

Hinges 1,2,5,6 - the 4 bolt patterns on those hinges are all different, you could NOT put those hinges in any other spot because they could not line up. The bolt patterns are specific to each hinge.

Hinges 3,4,7,8 - the 4 bolt patterns on those hinges are all the same, you could put those hinges in 2 different locations. This may explain why Treeroot has a 7/8 hinge in the same location Mikesta has a 3/4

Hinges 5,6,7,8 when pinned together lay completely flat on a table.

Hinges 1,2,3,4 when pinned cannot lay flat on a table, the hinge will bind at about a 20 degree angle.

I think I have everything correctly pinned together and it all seems to make sense. Why Treeroot has that 7/8 hinge in the front doors lower hinge location?? I don't know? Like I said, 3/4 and 7/8 are the only 2 hinges sets you could switch like that, the only difference would be pin distance.

Matt

[buckroseau]

1 more

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by Mikesta

How are those bushings working out? Cant wait to see the results... and hope they are still available to purchase... if they are available.

by the way.. how in the world did you get the lv on that trailer with the rotisery and how did you secure it... looked like a top heavy accident waiting to happen... I actually shriveled in my chair when I saw the first pic. Glad it got there... expose the secrets!!! No jedi mind tricks though

Door bushing seem to be ok? At least I think so, I'll wait to say to much until the other guys get theres and see what they think, and yes, still have some, got 200, over half are gone.

Actually me and a buddy pushed it up onto the trailer, wasn't to hard. 2 straps in each corner/ 8 total. Not top heavy at all, I have those 6 ft wide legs on there so it sits pretty nice

Matt

[cruiserdan]

I just dug out my old fiche. It only identifies part numbers and makes no mention of the numbers stamped on the plates, sorry Matt.


D-

[Mikesta]

Can you hook me up with a set (of door bushings) ? I will gladly pay you tuesday.

[cruiserdan]

Originally Posted by Mikesta

Can you hook me up with a set (of door bushings) ? I will gladly pay you tuesday.

If that was directed at me, no. The OEM ones are discontinued.

[Mikesta]

More directed toward Matt... but If you said yes, I may have screamed like a little girl.

[buckroseau]

Little out of sequence, because I will hopefully have more pics of yesterdays progress and tonights progress posted this evening.

I went home at lunch, took about 45 min. to bend these up and get them welded together. There were 3 on the right side after we remove the quarter that were totally rotted out except for the one you see in the pic. It will be more obvious after I post pics of that tonight.

Figured I would get this done, so tonight I can stay ahead of my buddy on that quarter, need to get the inner guts done first.

Matt

[beaufort-fj60]

just curious, how much have you spent on just the sheet metal ?

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by beaufort-fj60

just curious, how much have you spent on just the sheet metal ?

Exactly $70, I've used about 2/3's of that $70 so probably $50 of that $70. I think I will be using all of those 2 - 4'x8' sheets by the time I'm done. So it should be a total of $70.

Matt

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

I just dug out my old fiche. It only identifies part numbers and makes no mention of the numbers stamped on the plates, sorry Matt.


D-

That's ok, thanks for looking! I think Toyota semi - idiot proofed it by having different bolt patterns for each individual hinge. They can only go in 1 spot and that's it.

Except for 7/8 and 3/4 Those have the same pattern, but are not the same as any of the others. I do believe that the 3/4 is the front lower hinge and the 7/8 is the rear lower just because of the pin location of 3/4 to 1/2 (are the same) and 7/8 to 5/6 (those are the same). Seems to make sense. Worse case I just have to take out a few bolts and switch them around now

Why treeroot had a 7/8 in the front lower spot If someone else pulls them out........... might confirm this or shed some more light on it?

Thanks again, Matt

[TJDIV]

$70.



$70!!!!






Ok, Ok, factor in the $35,000 labor bill just for body work....just to push it out of my price range.

Jeez-O-Peetz.

[Flyin_Ryan]

Originally Posted by buckroseau

Mistake......of course. Didn't see the #'s because of rust and paint, and I assumed which was wrong of me, that they were all the same. They sure look like it from 2 feet away? Once I started blasting and the #'s became apparent I realized that I may have a problem. 2nd, anything I do in my life as far as projects go, I kick ass and try to take names later. Hey, the air was fresh, compressor fully charged, air tools fired up and parts are a flying.... Right or wrong, just the way I do it. Just trying to gett'ir done!!!

Matt you just crossed into the grygla city limits on that one...

Just letting you know before the wagon has twice pipes coming out the back.

Keep up the good work

Later

[Mikesta]

Originally Posted by buckroseau

Exactly $70, I've used about 2/3's of that $70 so probably $50 of that $70. I think I will be using all of those 2 - 4'x8' sheets by the time I'm done. So it should be a total of $70.

Matt

Is that 20 guage metal yer using there? Thanks for the links on the sheer and brake..... it takes up to 20 gauge... so I'm thinking its less than that?

thanks!

[buckroseau]

Just got back, brought the camera with me this time.

Pics are from 2 evenings of work now. My buddy pretty much worked on fabbing a rear quarter from thin air. While I spent time cutting out rusty metal, blasting, priming, welding in new metal, priming.....etc....you get the idea.

You saw the pics from earlier today of those triangle pieces, should be able to see them installed. Had to make some inner structure than curved around the back also.

Remember to share the vision here, nothing is primed yet, but there is a quarter panel tacked in now with ablsolutely no rust, primed inside and out with epoxy primer and ready to be fully welded in.

Another evening and we figure we will be wrapping up this quarter. Might fit the doors on this side next just for fun, something different before we move onto the other side.

Matt

[buckroseau]

more

[buckroseau]

some more

[buckroseau]

even somre more

[buckroseau]

3 more

[buckroseau]

1 more

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by TJDIV

$70.



$70!!!!






Ok, Ok, factor in the $35,000 labor bill just for body work....just to push it out of my price range.

Jeez-O-Peetz.

Not much in material, but then factor in some of the equipment required to bend that stuff up and weld it in...... adds a couple extra bucks

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by Flyin_Ryan

Matt you just crossed into the grygla city limits on that one...

Just letting you know before the wagon has twice pipes coming out the back.

Keep up the good work

Later

Yea, I'm a hill billy at heart

Speaking of hill billys, old Ned Beatty stopped in the store here the past 2 weekends now............... Gets me in the spirit................Squeel...................


Sorry, getting off track now................

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by Mikesta

Is that 20 guage metal yer using there? Thanks for the links on the sheer and brake..... it takes up to 20 gauge... so I'm thinking its less than that?

thanks!

Yes, 20 gauge, and yes that is the thickest steel you can shear in those links to that machine I sent you.

Does it very well though

[Poser]

Grygla....


Ha ha ha!



Looks GREAT Matt!

[buckroseau]

Not a ton of pics tonight, but did a ton of work. Both me and body dude kicked ass tonight, wasn't much time for pics.

I spent a good portion of the even welding the quarter in. Took some time, lot's of welding. Lot of time grinding all the welds down, but turned out real nice.

My buddy got to try out those new hinges and bushings While I was welding he zip wheeled down both passenger side doors. We installed the rear door, which went amazingly well. Unbeliveable how a new set of bushings make it seem like a new vehicle, well almost. Before the doors were hanging on there and fell out of the jam when you open them. Now, tight and rotate nicely. The front door, not quite as easy. As soon as bolted it on and tried to close it my buddy new something was wrong. Since he does this for a living and is extremely good at it, some quick measuring on his part he determine that the A pillar was bent back, so the top hinge mounting point was pushed back also. From all the bondo in the front end, broken shock towers and everything else, it seemed to make sense that it took a hard hit in the front corner. Some quick straighting on his part with his tools.........perfect. Truley amazing watching someone who knows exactly where to push metal to make it fit. Anyway, both doors on that side closing nicely, no mechanism's, but well enough until it's back on the chassis.

Once we wrapped up the passenger side for the most part, at least for metal work we moved on the driverside. This is the side that had that severely bent up inner panel Not good, even my friend was shaking his head on how twisted it was. A good hour and half of jacking, heating, dollying, hammering, hammering, hammering, hammering, hammering................hammering...............a nd it's some what close.

Heading back up there Saturday morning, hoping with more hammering and jacking we can get it some what acceptable Then re-install the quarter, doors and with any luck might have the driver side metal work done by Saturday night.

Matt

[buckroseau]

1 more, more hammering......................

[buckroseau]

Originally Posted by Poser

Grygla....


Ha ha ha!



Looks GREAT Matt!

Thanks, it's going well.

Grygla's high class up here

Matt

[buckroseau]

Question for you guys, see what you think.

My friend was looking at the doors asking about the strikers and mechanism's, asking about the shape they were in. I told him they were ok, but 40 years old.

He suggested installing aftermarket strikers with a double safety pin mechanism. He's into hot rods, so knows a lot about aftermarket stuff and has installed a lot. He showed me these aftermarket strikers in this, "Speedway motors" catalog. About $20 bucks for each set of pin and striker. He said you have to cut the door, but it would be like a new vehicle latch and probably be tighter. He figured we would probably be able to use the stock handles, but may have to be moved a 1/2" + or so left or right to use with the aftermarket stuff.

I stated at the beginning of this thread, I want to use the vehicle a LOT. Or at least, have the wife drive it a lot. I don't have any experience with the factory latch's so I can't speak from experience with those. I just want it to be as tight as possible going down the road, no rattles and such.

Just wondering what you guys think?

Thanks, Matt