[Mikesta]

Mine was free, but I like yours WAY more. Does it have rubber castors?

[Awl_TEQ]

Nah - they are more plastic than rubber but they roll good

[Awl_TEQ]

So a bit of tinkering today...

Removed the 2F frame mounts - or at least three of four. The left rear mount is just a plate welded to the top of the frame rail. I'll grind the welds and remove that one later when the cab is off and out of the way.

Here are the mounts... Rather than grind them off I prefer to drill a small (less than 1/4") hole half way through the rivet, then a large (like 7/16") drill bit will take the head off leaving the 3/8" shank of the rivet flush with the surface. Then its hammer time. Some are quite tough and some are two/three hits. Done right there should be no damage to the bracket.
Left

Right

I can't find a pic of the right rear mount

[Mikesta]

Originally Posted by Awl_TEQ

So a bit of tinkering today...

Removed the 2F frame mounts - or at least three of four. The left rear mount is just a plate welded to the top of the frame rail. I'll grind the welds and remove that one later when the cab is off and out of the way.

Here are the mounts... Rather than grind them off I prefer to drill a small (less than 1/4") hole half way through the rivet, then a large (like 7/16") drill bit will take the head off leaving the 3/8" shank of the rivet flush with the surface. Then its hammer time. Some are quite tough and some are two/three hits. Done right there should be no damage to the bracket.
Left
Attachment 353379
Right
Attachment 353380
I can't find a pic of the right rear mount

Nice, are you keeping the Brackets? I'm looking for a set if not! Although, I don't know if they will work in a 40 as they are different frames?

[Awl_TEQ]

Now I need to figure out where these battery brackets go. There aren't any holes so I'll have to drill and tack nuts inside the frame. I'll drop the drive train in first to help locate the brackets correctly. I also have a bunch of photo's to consult.


lvdreamer dropped by so we could loosen his bed. He sold it and needed to remove it for shipping. Very nice 1980.




45kevin dropped by earlier in the day but I forgot to get a picture of his rig.

Almost a Calgary 45 run

[Awl_TEQ]

I referenced several pics I have of a friends 45 F to B conversion...




And used some other indicators to locate my battery brackets. My frame being an FJ has no holes or captured nuts so I marked with a center punch and drilled a small pilot hole. I am still weighing my options as to how to bolt them on. There is simply no way to get a nut onto a bolt inside the frame. I asked my restoration buddy how he did it and he uses some kind of industrial nutsert. My experience with nutserts says they would not be up to the task in the long run. I suppose I could tap the frame and not use nuts - but the frame is relatively thin and I'd only get a couple of threads. On the other hand there are 8 bolts per bracket

[Awl_TEQ]

A couple more

[Radd Cruisers]

Nutserts in steel not aluminum have held the torque of a diesel with big tires for some time now.

Properly set they are strong.

Rob

[Awl_TEQ]

I cleaned up my rusty 3B a bit and bolted the tranny and T-case back on in order to locate my motor mount brackets and tranny cross-member.



I have a complete cross-member but not the frame brackets for the motor mounts. I borrowed a set and made copies. I just have to weld the small angle to one and the plate to the other. Then I can try and locate them on my frame. Not really sure how to do that. My half baked plan is to attach the rubber mounts, slip the drive train into the frame and attach the brackets and cross member. Then I can move it up/ down or for/ aft as required until its in the correct location . I'll go with that plan and change it as needed.

[Awl_TEQ]

Originally Posted by Radd Cruisers

Nutserts in steel not aluminum have held the torque of a diesel with big tires for some time now.

Properly set they are strong.

Rob

Thanks Rob,

I'm just using them for the battery brackets so I guess they'll be ok. The motor frame brackets will be bolted with fine thread and tack welded in the corners.

Kevin

[HJ47]

Kevin,

I hope you are planning to sell those motor mounts- they are beautiful!

Cheers,

Josh

[Awl_TEQ]

Originally Posted by HJ47

Kevin,

I hope you are planning to sell those motor mounts- they are beautiful!

Cheers,

Josh

Yup - I have a customer who wanted some so mine were the first article. They are a real PITA to bend. Because of the shape I can't use a backstop and therefore have to align the part to the tool by eye. Any missalignment causes the two mounting flanges not to be in the same plane = scrap metal.

Kevin

[Awl_TEQ]

I went on a little road trip yesterday and scored some new to me side steps for the 45. 3_puppies gave me a generous deal on these - thanks Paul

[Radd Cruisers]

Originally Posted by Awl_TEQ

Thanks Rob,

I'm just using them for the battery brackets so I guess they'll be ok. The motor frame brackets will be bolted with fine thread and tack welded in the corners.

Kevin

No problem Kevin, I never would of tried it if Kurt from Cruiser Outfitters said he has used them on many installs if memorey serves me.

Really like those brackets, top notch.


Rob

[Awl_TEQ]

Let me know if you want any - I'll be making some at some point in the next... oh...90 days maybe?? don't know exactly when. Hilltop Cruisers wants a few sets. I used a set of his originals for a template.

[Radd Cruisers]

Ya, that would be great.

Send the price to rclassman@shaw.ca.

Thanks


Rob

[Awl_TEQ]

I'll work up a price tomorrow at work and send it to you. I have only made mine so far and they were the first off/ test run.

[3_puppies]

Originally Posted by Awl_TEQ

I went on a little road trip yesterday and scored some new to me side steps for the 45. 3_puppies gave me a generous deal on these - thanks Paul

Attachment 354903

Attachment 354904

Kevin, it was good to meet you the other day and glad you made it home.

Paul

[Awl_TEQ]

Originally Posted by Radd Cruisers

Ya, that would be great.

Send the price to rclassman@shaw.ca.

Thanks


Rob

Email sent.

[whitey45]

Kevin, are you planning on installing the engine trans with a factory "cant" I think it is 7 degrees, I never even knew toyota did this until I got the bj60. It is very noticable when the shroud is removed. Also wondering if anybody knows why this was done? When I swap this engine into my 45 I will want to install it like every other engine install,centered up or off set a little! ..Or I will install it the same way toyota did it utilizing the factory mounts...

[Awl_TEQ]

Whitey

Short answer is yes

I am using replica (I made them) factory frame brackets and motor mounts in the factory positions... so the motor will tilt to the side and back as per the original 40 series design. I have reproduced the brackets using an original set as a template and will do a run of these parts in the next few weeks as time allows. They will be priced at $87.00 a set.

Flat layout

formed up


I have no idea why they tilted the motor - ours is not to reason why... ours is but to refurbish and enjoy

[whitey45]

That works for me,I am not too concerned about the tilt angle thing,just curious as to the engineering behind it. I am going to harvest every last piece off of the 60 to ease the transplant,I wish I didnt have the frame mounts after seeing ANOTHER amazing reproduction.

[Awl_TEQ]

I took a bit of time tonight to install the M8 nutserts (captured nuts) in the frame for the battery brackets. I still don't like these things for a few reasons. One is that the nutsert only threads onto the tool by a about three threads and the force necessary to expand and seat the nut can sometimes pull and strip the nutsert. I have had that happen on many different sized nuserts. Other than being very careful with how much force and how straight you pull I have found if you start the seating process and then slack off to thread the nut on a bit more you can then pull it all the way in. Another reason I don't like them is I find they don't hold up to very much torque before they spin and become useless.

Having said all that I really have no other choice besides cutting open the frame and welding in nuts. There is just no access to hold a fastener in there. So here are some shots and comments.

The tool:
The nutsert threads onto the tool while holding the tool open. Then when squeezed the nutsert expands and becomes captured in place.

This particular tool is slightly small for this size nutsert but with only 13 to instal I wasn't willing to buy the $150.00 big one. Rather than strain all the ligaments in my wrists and forearms I added a little leverage to the tool in the form of some aluminum tubing.

Here is an unseated nutsert

[Awl_TEQ]

I installed the right side. It looks a bit swiss cheesy here but its not too bad in person.

The left side has some conflicts with the existing 2F mount rivet holes. The larger holes shown here are from the 2F mounting brackets that I removed. The smaller ones are pilot holes for the nutserts that need to be drilled out to a touch over 1/2". With them so close together drilling would be a PITA and the nutsert won't anchor properly. So I will weld the offending holes shut.

I want a smooth inner surface after I am done so I clamped a bit of 1/2" thick aluminum to the inside of the frame. When I MIG the hole shut the filler material will not adhere to the aluminum and it is much easier to fill the holes. In this shot I have already done the lower hole and am prepared to do the upper one.

[Awl_TEQ]

All four welded shut and ground flush ready for the pilot holes to be drilled to size.

This side has 9 bolts (there are two on top as well - with 3/8" of double frame I decided to just drill and tap the top ones).

[Awl_TEQ]

So here are the brackets loosely bolted on. They are in the way for the engine install for mock up so not bolted tight.

[Awl_TEQ]

So I used the chassis manual and photos from several builds both on mud and elsewhere to locate the engine frame brackets. I also used threads by Otterav and DanS HJ-45 - thanks guys. I tack welded them in place for now while I mock up the motor, exhaust, turbo, power steering, alternator, York compressor, A/C compressor, dual batteries, rad, condenser, intercooler and front clip (whew!) Yeah, I know, I don't think its all going to fit either.


Some comments on "slipping" the drive train in.

Not so much slipping as bouncing, banging, prying... I know! shouldn't be that tough, and it wasn't really. I just had to re-rig my lifting rig half way through because my leveler was hitting the hood/ firewall. Plus with the weight of the tranny/case it was hard to get it to line up with the engine brackets. So with a floor jack under the t-case and the leveler running sideways it was much better.

[Awl_TEQ]

One more - holy offset batman



This is what I hope to end up with plus a York OBA compressor (and prettier intercooler tubing) This shot is from Hilltop Cruisers website and is the truck in my member page background. Obviously I am just doing mockup right now - I got a long way to go...

[Awl_TEQ]

Okay, the motor brackets worked the tranny is in the right place (this is a forward tower h55f from a BJ42)



Two issues have cropped up.

Firstly, the crossmember is too wide. A quick look in the FSM shows the BJ42 frame is the same width at the front but tapers wider sooner than the FJ45 frame. The BJ42 frame begins to widen just aft of the spring hanger - the FJ45 frame starts to get wider after the front body mount. Net effect is the crossmember is 1" - 1.5" too wide. This is easily fix by moving the holes in the L-brackets at the ends of the crossmember.

Here you can see with the crossmember where it needs to be the captured nut doesn't line up with the hole in the L-bracket.



The second issue is a bit more trouble and I'd love to hear from anyone with this situation in their rear view mirror. With the motor mounts correctly positioned and the tranny/ t-case pushed up until contact is made with the doghouse this is where the L-brackets land on the frame. Too low to use the holes as is.

[Awl_TEQ]

With a call in to a friend who has put a few 3B's into FJ frames I still have no answer. Is this a part issue - ie. wrong crossmember? (I removed this x-member from the BJ-42 frame myself though I did not pull the drive train).

Or does the stock 42 doghouse have more height?? (I doubt it)

Here are some more shots with my member () positioned where it wants to go.

Holes too low

Member and t-case hang low - member= 2.5" and case= 4.5" below the frame





Again - the tranny is near touching the doghouse. Should I weld shut the useless holes and drill new ones??


Everyone I have heard says the BJ42 series drive train will fit right into an FJ40 but what about a 45 - anybody actually done one??