[Awl_TEQ]

So I have arranged to borrow a friends tubing bender for this weekend. I ordered two lengths each of 2"x0.120 ERW, 1.5"x0.120 ERW and 1-3/4"x0.120 DOM and had them delivered to my workplace. We finish work at 11:00 AM on Fridays so I'll be sending the via local courier to my house Friday afternoon (I don't have a truck that moves). I have fabbed up a quick rack system to get the tubing off of the floor and out from underfoot.



I have been busy getting things ready for this weekend. First, I have kept the rear fuel tank progressing by tacking the corners together and the baffles in - still need to fab the top. B) I have made a second set of bolt plates for the rear bumper - I plan on making two rear bumpers, one with sliders and rear corner protection and one with just simple tube hoops. Thirdly, I have sketched out a plan for my main sliders. I will be bolting three plates to each side of the frame that wrap under the frame - they will have 4 bolts in the side and two on the bottom. Off of that plate will come a 2"x4"x0.120 tube that I will cut and re-weld in a taper down to 2"x2". These three rectangle/square tubes will have a 2" round ERW running just under the widest part of the body between the wheels. Then there will be a 1.5" round ERW just outboard and a bit higher than the 2".

I have the bolt plates and 2x4 tube here at home to hold up and visualize if it's gonna work.


I am also going to bend up 1.5" tube from the front bumper to the main slider and 1-3/4" DOM for the main parts of the roll cage this weekend - time permitting. My friend needs his tubing bender back Tuesday for his business.

[Awl_TEQ]

Finished the tubing rack. Each arm holds my 200Lbs. There is another one out of frame so thats 1000 Lbs. The garage is about 23' wide inside so a full length will fit up there.


Had a few minutes at work to fab up some parts for this weekend. Here are the plates that will attach my sliders to the frame. They are 3/8" thick 4.5" wide and run the full 5" height and 2" width of the frame. I sheared the material from 3/8"x6" flat bar, put a radius on the corners and smoothed the edges on a belt sander. I used a 3" bottom Vee die and about 15 tons of the 60 ton press. I tried the 2" and 2-1/2" dies but the material just cracked (not big enough radius).


Also cut out the pie shape to taper the arms that come off the frame - I used the big band saw at work.

[Awl_TEQ]

So I thought I would tack one side together and see what's what. Everything is still mobile (movable) - I just want to see how it all works together.


Tacked up three pieces - one each at 16, 17, 18" plus the 3/8" plate. The different lengths are due to the frame tapering.


This is the basic cross section of my slider. There will be provisions for a High-Lift jacking points as well as a boot friendly step below the front section of the bed.
So there is:
A 3/8" plate that will be bolted to the frame (6 bolts in each)
A 2"x4"x0.125 wall rec tube tapered to 2"x2" (taper is to clear the body and reduce to 2" for the round tube)
A 2"x0.120 round ERW tube sitting half under and half outside the body
A 1.5"x0.120 round ERW tube sitting off the 2" at a slight upward angle

Some of you may say that I should go heavier but I think I am OK for a couple reasons: A) I am not making a rock crawler or even a hard core trail rig. It's a daily driver/ expedition type rig. 2) One reason everything is bolt on is I can learn from use and make changes as I go if required.

[Awl_TEQ]

I stuck three arms on the frame to thunk some more about the details. One thing I am thunking about is whether I should angle the arms so they come off the frame perpendicular to the long axis of the truck or just come off at 90 degrees to the frame (which is tapered). I suppose it doesn't matter in the long rum...er...run. I tied a string from center to center of the hubs to get a straight line. With the taper of the cab, frame, side step it's hard to eyeball a straight line. The string doesn't show vertical level because the springs are old and sagging in the front - but it does show a straight line down the side of the truck to see how far out to come with the arms.

[65-fj45]

very nice, should be plenty strong.

[Awl_TEQ]

Thanks 65 - I think so too. And if not I'll just make it stronger.


Some fun this evening:

Borrowed the tubing bender and the 1.5, 1.75 and 2" dies - she barely fits in the Rav4


Had the tubing delivered from work. I know - I should put it in my rack. Turns out some sizes came in 24' lengths so they are about three feet to long. Oh well, at least I have a place for the offcuts.


Started with the rear bumper/ slider. Came out pretty good. the lengths and bend angles aren't too hard, but the "twist" between bends is challenge to make twice at the same (although opposite) angle.

[Awl_TEQ]

Although I need to concentrate on bending so I can maximize my limited time with the bender I had to tack these in place so I can build the 1.5" tube that comes off them.








So far so good. I worked out the kinks in my bend technique, , and I'm still having fun. Don't know how much I'll do tomorrow, being the 14th of Feb and all. Might be a good idea to hang around the all day, especially since we managed to dump the kids at the sister-in-law's for the day (she's single... again)

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Very cool to watch. It's turning out great.

[Awl_TEQ]

More tube bending.


Making the front bush guards...


Keep in mind the springs are currently flat and these are 31" tires. I will be installing OME 2.5" springs and 33" tires - and new fenders.


Would have been nice if the radius of the bender matched the fender rad. These brush guards will be removable with a few bolts for daily driving duties. Also I will be adding a loop of smaller tube to protect the signal.

[Awl_TEQ]

more...

I kept it pretty close. These J4 series tend to look like farm tractors with these front guards coming down the sides. Don't get me wrong - others I have seen, even vintage ones, are perfectly functional and form does follow function. I'm just attempting to make mine look good . The trouble is really the tubing covers up the lines of the truck, which in my opinion are very iconic.


I made my main slider parts as well.


These go on the rear corners.



Tomorrow I'll do the main roll cage pieces. Just the pieces for now - I'll actually put together the cage and everything else after the bender goes back do my buds shop.

[Awl_TEQ]

A few pic I didn't show you from last Monday

Removed the seats and floor mat to aid in laying out the roll cage.

[Awl_TEQ]

Floor looks relatively good if very dusty. The trans cover is like new - paint and sound deadener.


The right side footwell is solid - that's the original primer and paint.


This is the worst rust (so far). Drivers footwell.

[Awl_TEQ]

A few for reference if anyone needs them

[Awl_TEQ]

A couple of my start on the roll cage. I've got most all of the main pieces bent, I just have to trim and notch to fit. I started in the rear corners, offset forward to clear the tub/back joining flange, offset inward to bring the tube up between the windows, 90+ deg. bend angled out to the top of the door frame to the windshield frame and across the top of the windshield. There will be tubes run across the back at the top and bottom behind the seats. Also two tubes will come down the 'A' pillars and through the dash then to the floor. The 'A' pillars will be connected across the dash. The stock dash pad will be removed and I will replace it with a custom dash and storage locker.



I'm going to have to splice in a couple of places. The ID of my 1-3/4" DOM is 1.510" so my 1.5" OD tube makes a perfect sleeve. Three plug welds on each side of the splice and a full weld around the joint. In this shot only the bottom plug welds are done.

[Awl_TEQ]

Okay - so today I planned on just cleaning up the mess I made of the garage last weekend, but having escaped the house cleanly I started finishing the rear sliders.

Here is where I left it last week. I need to run a tube from the mount I made on the frame to the slider.


I have some scraps of bent tube.


And a slightly primitive way of notching the tube.

[Awl_TEQ]

My hole saw is very good on sheet metal it's not deep enough for tube, but it does get the hardest part - the inner curve.

Finished the rest with a zip disc on the grinder and angle cut the other end.

[Awl_TEQ]

fits nice




Got called back into the house... I think I'll start earlier tomorrow.

[45Kevin]

I see you have the same problem as me with the rubber dampeners on the anti-sway bar. I can't for the life of me get them to stay in the bracket.

I love the rear bumper. I may have to do something like that on mine someday.

[Awl_TEQ]

Yeah, there's nothing really holding them in with all the twisting pushing them out. I may make a new retaining bracket with ends on it to help stop it slipping out.


So I started early (relatively) this morning. Got the rear bumper/ slider finished save for welding and powder. Here are a bunch of pics.....

[Awl_TEQ]

I really gotta wipe off the lens before taking shots

[Awl_TEQ]

[Awl_TEQ]

[Awl_TEQ]

An after thought - I am going to add some steel foothold/ step material in strategic spots for climbing into the bed (or out of the mud yer stuck in) and some (4?) jack points for the High-Lift.

[miker]

Wow! Nice work, Looks great!

[miker]

I wish I could work as fast as you. I hardly have time to keep up with your build there's so much progress each week. I just realized you are starting on the cage as well (after looking at all the pictures) Have you decided how you will be mounting the cage to the floor in this area? I'm trying to decide how I'll do mine and I'm interested to see what you come up with.

[Awl_TEQ]

Mike

I did all the tube bending I could all at once because my buddy uses his tube bender for a living (he has a one man welding shop specializing in custom motorcycles and exhaust headers, even a jet helicopter kit he built for one guy) - so I couldn't keep it very long. Now I have a bunch of random looking bent tube that I have to trim, notch and fit/ weld into something.
At the moment the cage is just tacked to the floor for fitting up. I plan to actually cut a 4"x4" or so hole through the "bench" and drop in a small 4" extension with a plate on both ends. It will bolt through the bottom floor and to a bracket off the frame. I don't see the point in making a roll cage that is not connected to the frame. The 4" extension will be "sheeted" over so that all you will see if you remove the cage is four threaded holes in the "bench" both inside and underneath. This arrangment does present an issue with regard to body flex. The cab is rubber mounted to the frame, the cage is solid to the frame and the cage is solid to the cab. That could be interesting when flexing the frame. Not sure what, if anything will come of it though. Maybe just a little movement between the cab and cage. I am trying to leave a half inch or more between cab and cage but also trying to preserve what little volume there is inside the cab as well as visibility through the 'A' pillars. Another consideration is that I want to be able to routinely remove the top and back of the cab for that open air feeling. The cage also must be bolt in.

I am going to finish the main sliders next followed by the front brush guards - then the cage. Hopefully all done in about three weeks(ends). Then the box gets blasted and torn apart/ rebuilt. Then the drive train swap,then, then.... oh crap! lotsa work ahead! One step at a time. I think I need a

[miker]

Thanks for that explanation of how you plan to mount the cage. I've been visualizing something similar to that but I was trying to figure out how to do it without cutting a big hole in the shelf. I may end up cutting that hole as well or I've also been considering removing the front of the "bench" or "shelf" from side to side and then this would serve 2 purposes. One would be to clean, inspect, de-rust and repair any damage under the "shelf" and the second would be to build a short 4" tube section with plates/nuts on both ends which could be slid in and mounted in the now open shelf area before welding the front back on. Like you, I would bolt the cage to this short section of tube/plates from the top and then bolt a support to the bottom which then goes to the frame. To address the flex, I plan to mount the frame to cage supports using urethane bushings. I've done the urethane mounts on my fj40 and its been that way for years without any issues that I can detect.

To remove the front of the shelf, it will require about a zillion more spot welds to be drilled out as well as the two box like brackets between the shelf and door frame. I also think the cab might become too flexy with these removed so bracing the cab first would be a good thing.

Another option would be to create a removable door or plate in that area for the cage. And then create another one or two in the middle sections for cleanout under the "shelf".

[Awl_TEQ]

Mike,

So, these bushings for the cage - they would be under the cab where the cage comes 'through' the floor? Just thinking out loud here... a nice sturdy bracket affair off the frame with a poly bushing on it that the cab/cage sits on and bolts to... that would work I think. The cab may be rubber mounted but in all reality it doesn't move much, and the cage would then be mounted in the same manner.

Have you looked at the rear cab mount lately? The spot where the cage will come 'through' the floor is just outward of the "X" shaped bracing for the cab mount. So what I am getting at is this - how to build a mount for the cage when the stock mount is at that spot on the frame? I have toyed with the idea of removing the factory cab mount bracket altogether and fabbing up my own that not only picks up the cab mount but extends out further and picks up the cage as well. I would beef it up accordingly and make it in the original Toyota style, just longer.

The 'A' pillar drop has a similar issue with the front cab mount - maybe a similar solution?


I just had another though with regard to the rear cage to frame mounting. What if, since we are cutting the shelf anyway, we run heavy angle accross the cab inside the shelf. Then the cage would come down on the angle and we would then anchor the angle to the stock cab mounts (maybe beefed up some how). This idea doesn't mount the cage directly to the frame but it does tie the cage to the cab in a way that they would never separate in a roll over. (and if they did you'd have bigger problems anyway). The cab could separate from the frame but that would be in a severe collision or a tumble down quite a hill and the cage (with you in it) would still be intact.

Thoughts?

[miker]

Originally Posted by Awl_TEQ

Mike,

So, these bushings for the cage - they would be under the cab where the cage comes 'through' the floor? Just thinking out loud here... a nice sturdy bracket affair off the frame with a poly bushing on it that the cab/cage sits on and bolts to... that would work I think. The cab may be rubber mounted but in all reality it doesn't move much, and the cage would then be mounted in the same manner.

Right, I used the poly bushings at the underside of the cab (or tub in the case of the 40) and then fixed/rigid mounted the other end of the support at the frame. This allows the cage to flex a little and hopefully not flex and stress the sheetmetal on the cab/tub where the cage mounts.

Originally Posted by Awl_TEQ

Have you looked at the rear cab mount lately? The spot where the cage will come 'through' the floor is just outward of the "X" shaped bracing for the cab mount. So what I am getting at is this - how to build a mount for the cage when the stock mount is at that spot on the frame? I have toyed with the idea of removing the factory cab mount bracket altogether and fabbing up my own that not only picks up the cab mount but extends out further and picks up the cage as well. I would beef it up accordingly and make it in the original Toyota style, just longer.

Ah, yes, you are right. But I believe (I will have to look again when I have more time to confirm) that what I planned to do would still work but it may be easier to tie the cage into the existing cab mount like you suggested. However, part of the benefit of the tie in brackets going to the frame is that they would give an extra mount and strength to keep the cab attached to the frame if something really bad or violent happened. Otherwise, you rely on the 4 stock cab bolts which are about 3/8” (10mm) in diameter.

Originally Posted by Awl_TEQ

The 'A' pillar drop has a similar issue with the front cab mount - maybe a similar solution?

Here, I can use exactly what I did on my 40. Let me see if I can get some pics of this and post up.

Originally Posted by Awl_TEQ

I just had another though with regard to the rear cage to frame mounting. What if, since we are cutting the shelf anyway, we run heavy angle across the cab inside the shelf. Then the cage would come down on the angle and we would then anchor the angle to the stock cab mounts (maybe beefed up some how). This idea doesn't mount the cage directly to the frame but it does tie the cage to the cab in a way that they would never separate in a roll over. (and if they did you'd have bigger problems anyway). The cab could separate from the frame but that would be in a severe collision or a tumble down quite a hill and the cage (with you in it) would still be intact.

Thoughts?

I’m not positive, but I think I understand where you would mount the angle and that seems like it would definitely help to strengthen up the cage to cab structure. It still seems to do nothing for the cage to frame integrity since you are relying on the same 4 bolts. What it would do, is allow more options for tying the cage/angle to the frame since now you have a structure going all the way across the cab. Intriguing idea. I’ll have to think about that one some more.

I plan to mount the seat to the cage so staying with the cage in a collision/accident is a good thing but I kind of like the idea of the cab staying on the frame as well. Maybe we are over building but I guess that is better than under building.

[miker]

I found one picture I had of the front cage-to-frame tie in mounts. Not that good of a picture but I did some crude scetching on the second picture to hopefully point out what it is you are looking at. Picture is taken from underside of the truck and the red part is a metal bracket and mounts with two red bolts to the frame at the front body mount horn. The blue is a metal plate at the underside of the body. There is a similar plate inside the cab and the roll bar is welded to this plate in the cab. The two plates are bolted together sandwiching the body between the two plates. The one you are looking at is on the underside (of course) and it has two tabs welded to it which then are drilled for a 5/8" bolt which goes through a spring bushing (orange) and then the red metal part. The red metal part has a tube on the upper end where the spring bushings are located. This is really the same way a number of motor mounts are built.