[Jon in NC]

Any new updates? I miss this thread as well as the repo bed one.

[Awl_TEQ]

Well I have no photo proof but I have made contact with the local Garrett turbo dealer and am about to pull the trigger on a new turbo. I am investigating just what material is best for a custom header to mount it on. The york or the A/C has to go so I am leaning toward the A/C because I think I used the A/C like four times last summer in the corolla and I plan on going topless sometimes.

I have mounted the PS and Alt with battery brackets, rad mount and shroud and just can't make room for both York and A/C without moving the Alt and PS pump which at this time seems like too much work.

I solved the issue with the Alt pulley not lining up - the pulley on the Alt is the wrong one - the right one has a spacer built in the moves the V forward a bit. So I need to get the other one.

I am going to get the stock A/C third crank pulley and tensioner to run the York and also change the clutch on the York to the wider belt type. Custom bracket needs to be fabbed for the York too.

I will supplement with photos this weekend.

The bed thread is basically dead and all pricing is in the link in my sig - prices are going to rise a bit when I get around to it. I just delivered a full bed in pieces to a local cruiser guy (so now I can buy that turbo )

[Awl_TEQ]

Slow and tedious progress...

I ordered the stock A/C tensioner and third crank pulley from SOR for a decent price - should be here by the end of next week.

With the fender, rad support, apron, air cleaner housing etc. set in place the gobs of room suddenly disappears

As most of you will know that is the stock exhaust manifold flipped - It will be replaced by a custom header I am building to mate to the T3/T4 turbo I have the local Garrett dealer making for me. I should get it some time next week. Once I have it I can complete the header fab. I have also ordered a cheap intercooler and piping kit from some online e-bay dealer. I'm sure the quality is suspect but even if I toss the cooler I came ahead just on the tubing compared to buying from the local speed shops.

[Awl_TEQ]

Some more random shots and comments. I'm kinda going in several directions at the same time...

So in case I haven't mentioned it, the junkyard A/C system will not be going on. Between having the York or A/C I choose the on board air system. I'll be fine around here where A/C is only needed 5 days a year... remind me later, mid summer in Phoenix, when I'm sweating my U-know-whats off .



I removed the steering box completely and took it along with the power unit to work...

[Awl_TEQ]

I used a pitman puller but could not get the arms off without an Oxy/Acetylene torch. With regards to the alternator, my parts source has agreed to swap pulleys or give me a complete alternator to solve the belt issue. On a related note - I will be reproducing the vacuum reservoir that typically rusts through and becomes useless. It will be made from 16 Ga. stainless steel and be the same size and shape as stock. I will also be doing the mounting bracket for it - likely in steel.

[DanS HJ-45]

Originally Posted by Awl_TEQ

On a related note - I will be reproducing the vacuum reservoir that typically rusts through and becomes useless. It will be made from 16 Ga. stainless steel and be the same size and shape as stock. I will also be doing the mounting bracket for it - likely in steel.

Ooooh.... One of the bits I haven't sourced yet...... Keep us posted.

I think you're making the right decision in terms of ditching the AC. I don't have AC on any of my trucks, and don't miss it. Even when I'm driving through Phoenix or Vegas or something and it's super hot. I can deal with being hot a couple of weeks a year, and onboard air from a York is the bomb!

Dan

[merbesfield]

I see you have some new fenders. How do those fit? Are they the same quality as the old ones? I am debating whether to blast my old ones and repair or just use the new set I have. I heard the newer stuff is not as good as the originals?

[Awl_TEQ]

They are new Toyota BJ fenders. I've only set them in place with a couple of hand tight fasteners to check clearances and all the holes seem to line up with the tub, side step etc. The BJ fenders are different than the FJ's in that they have a string of captured nuts around the shock towers for a rubber skirt that came on BJ units. A minor difference but since I had the option I took it. Hilltop Cruisers had them in stock when I was filling my trunk...

With just two of four bolts at the frame mount they seem very sturdy and by the time I put the rest in I'd be able to jump on them I'm sure - though I doubt I'll try

[Awl_TEQ]

Update

Power steering box braket fab...

So I attached the box to the column and supported it where it "wanted" to be. I made up an angle plate at work measuring 3/8" thick x 6" long with flanges 2-3/8" x 3-1/8" OD (2 and 2-3/4 ID) for the frame end of the bracket. This represents the same size as the original manual steering box bracket. I also made a 3/4" thick plate measuring 2-3/4" x 4-1/4" for the box to bolt to. I drilled and tapped the plate with M10x1.25 thread to match the box foot pattern. I don't show it here but I loosely installed the fender to make sure the box would clear - it is very close but no alteration of the OEM fender is required.

I mocked up some cardboard elements to take to work and replicate. What you see here is exactly what I brought home cut from 1/4" plate. After some grinding and fitting I decided at the last minute to install the pitman arm and found my gussets interfered with the swing of the arm and had to cut them down quite a bit.

[Awl_TEQ]

Tacked up and ready for welding

[Awl_TEQ]

And welded - I closed in the sides with 12Ga to make it boxed for strength. Three passes with the TIG in most places and then normalized to 1600 degrees and allowed to cool slowly buried in floor dry.

[Awl_TEQ]

And a few more...
eventually it will be plated and powder coated like the rest of the frame

[Awl_TEQ]

Moving on to the exhaust header...

I had a manifold plate laser cut out of 1/2" plate using the original gasket as a guide to draw the CAD file. Made a mess on my desk for sure.

It fits pretty close - I just have to clearance a couple of bolt holes to make it slip right on cleaner. The ports are oversized approximately the thickness of the tube so that the tube can be slipped into the plate 2/3ds of the way and be welded inside. I will have the plate milled flat after welding if we can find a way to fixture it in the mill.

And I have some mandrel bent 1-3/4" tube to hack up. I was going to do a simple design like the 13BT manifold but now I'm thinking a full 4 into 1 before the turbo flange with a pyro port.

[Awl_TEQ]

Got some parts in the mail today...

From SOR - third pulley and idler for the York




And a cheap intercooler from E-bay

[Awl_TEQ]

Also form e-bay, some IC pipe etc.

I made some tapered 12Ga brackets at work to help move the rad back to make room for the IC. I was going to remove the original brackets and make my own but this is quicker and I am getting tired of removing good Toyota engineering.

Oh, and I picked up my all new T3/4 turbo last thursday from the local Garrett dealer including the mounting flange for the header. When I say local I mean less than 100 yards from my shipping door at work (after a search online - I actually hit the distributer link, put in my postal code and said "hey, that looks like the building next door!!" )

[a.greenspan]

Originally Posted by Awl_TEQ

And a few more...
eventually it will be plated and powder coated like the rest of the frame....
]

Kevin,
I´m not a friend of powder coated metal, if this builds cracks(thin little cracks) & it will do over time, moisture comes under the coated parts and it will rust * ( you can`t see that at the beginning) that´s why I would make a normal paint structure and grease the frame at the end.
Cheers
Peter

* the sooner you can see the rust, the better you can fight him

[merbesfield]

Have you checked the gap between the fenders and the side aprons? I remember on Buckroseau's build he had issues.

Originally Posted by Awl_TEQ

They are new Toyota BJ fenders. I've only set them in place with a couple of hand tight fasteners to check clearances and all the holes seem to line up with the tub, side step etc. The BJ fenders are different than the FJ's in that they have a string of captured nuts around the shock towers for a rubber skirt that came on BJ units. A minor difference but since I had the option I took it. Hilltop Cruisers had them in stock when I was filling my trunk...

With just two of four bolts at the frame mount they seem very sturdy and by the time I put the rest in I'd be able to jump on them I'm sure - though I doubt I'll try

[Awl_TEQ]

Originally Posted by a.greenspan

Kevin,
I´m not a friend of powder coated metal, if this builds cracks(thin little cracks) & it will do over time, moisture comes under the coated parts and it will rust * ( you can`t see that at the beginning) that´s why I would make a normal paint structure and grease the frame at the end.
Cheers
Peter

* the sooner you can see the rust, the better you can fight him

That's why it will be zinc plated under the powder. Powder is 10 times more durable than wet coat paint. The main frame will be hot dip galvanized and smaller brackets and parts will be zinc dichromate. I would zinc plate the frame but that process won't cover inside the frame and between the double frame channels like hot dip will.

Originally Posted by merbesfield

Have you checked the gap between the fenders and the side aprons? I remember on Buckroseau's build he had issues.

Perfect fit merb - no gaps at all. Were buck's fenders OEM Toyota? I've heard the CCOT repros need massaging to fit - no personal experience. I've also heard they (CCOT) addressed the fit and re-tooled their dies.

[dr_claw]

I like your shop bar stool.

Keep up the pics!

[merbesfield]

I am glad to here the fender fit is good. It would save me a ton of time not having to rework my originals. Mine are OEM not repops.

Question about the zinc. I thought paint would not stick to zinc plating?

[Awl_TEQ]

I don't know about paint but powder certainly will. We did a job for the City of Calgary where we fabricated all the raillings for the Centre Street Bridge. Their specs were to hot dip galvanize and then powdercoat all the steel. I've seen it in a lot of similar apps also.

Interesting side note - while the bridge was closed they shot a scene for one of Steven Seagal's movies on the bridge (Exit Wounds) - a shoot out with helicopters and motorcyles with explosions etc. They did a car flip that rolled a bit too much and damaged our newly installed railing and we had to rush to replace it before the dedication. The bridge has a lower deck and we were working down there the day they shot some helicopter scenes. They kept doing low runs down the river and poping up over the bridge at the last second and had a guy hanging out the door with a 50Cal blasting away - shells falling all over - pretty cool stuff. Too bad it was one of old stone face's movies . Fun work site but I kept dropping tools in the river - lost like three torpedo levels...


Wikipedia - Centre Street Bridge

Exit Wounds trailer - flashes of the bridge at 1:05... Rolling cop car hit my rail at 1:24 - my brush with fame

[SabreTooth]

Originally Posted by Awl_TEQ

That's why it will be zinc plated under the powder. Powder is 10 times more durable than wet coat paint. The main frame will be hot dip galvanized and smaller brackets and parts will be zinc dichromate. I would zinc plate the frame but that process won't cover inside the frame and between the double frame channels like hot dip will.

Hi Kevin,

I've just started to follow this rebuild after having met you in person last month. I hope to continue to follow along and see the truck as it progresses. It's looking great so far.

For your consideration, my experiences with a hot dipped galvanised frame on my '77 FJ45. Personally, I'd never galvanise a frame on a wheeling truck because when the inevitable breakages occur, welding on a galvanised frame is a PIA as well as pretty unhealthy. I have had to do it enough times in the field to know and it is no fun at all.

I have not gone back far enough in the thread yet to see what the intent is for this truck, so if it is intended as more of a DD and show truck, I'm sure the galvanised frame will keep it for all eternity. What I can say positively about my own galvanised frame is that it will be the only thing left standing when the rest of the truck has oxidised away.

Hope to see you out at a meeting again soon (e.g. this Wednesday?). Your attention to detail would be a good influence on some members of the club

Cheers,

Jim

[a.greenspan]

Originally Posted by merbesfield

Question about the zinc. I thought paint would not stick to zinc plating?

Hi Mark,
paint stick on zinc see Porsche
but they use a special zinc paint ( primer) for their cars.
Zinc plated parts are not so easy to paint, the zinc surface must be very, very clean, than you can make a normal paint job
( I did that on some car parts and it works)
but I would never zinc plate car parts again, it`s not necessary for normal use - dd included -
make a good paint job (special paint for chassis/underside) grease the inner sides/underside of your car and control it from time too time.
Cheers
Peter

By they way I don`t know any professional old car restoration companies who do such a " zinc job "
but if you want feel free to zinc plate your Toyo

[a.greenspan]

forgotten
I have nearly 30 years experience in rust prevention on my BJ43
- was my dd for 25 years - saw never a garage in that time & looks still good for his age ( ok some work was necessary but not sooooooooo much )....
....

[Awl_TEQ]

Jim, yes, I hear what your saying about welding on galvanized. This build is an expedshowDDwheeler. Last time I built a truck up (81 Toy p/u) I had it painted, lifted, tinted, new interior etc. with no real thought as to what the long term plans were for the truck. But almost before the paint was fully cured I had it slipped into a washout lying nearly on its side in mud.

So, with some thought and reflecting on that history I glean the following: I like a built up and detailed rig, an efficient and comfortable DD, and an upper middle class capable trail rig - all in one. Once this build is done it will be wheeled, scratched-n-dented and I don't mind that. Adds character. With limits of course. Eventually, if the damage gets intense, I would just redo portions of the build applying lessons learned. At the same time this truck is an antique so preservation is a consideration.

I don't intend to do any full on rock crawling (famous last words). But presented with an obstacle mid run, with the support of my peers close by, I won't bypass with out giving it a try first. My driving skills will be the limiting factor moreso than the truck.

Truthfully this build will be 95% DD so I will go ahead and galvanize/ powder the frame and other bits. If welding is required on the trail or in the shop I can deal with that when I get to the other side of the bridge.

I will be at the RMLCA meeting tomorrow with a tailgate top rail for 45kevin - see you there.

Peter, thanks for your input. I remember the zinc coated Porsche info from the 1987 928 sales literature I used to drool over. Man I really wanted that car - egg shape and all - even test drove one, very nice power and control with the transmission in the rear and engine up front - good balance.

[a.greenspan]

Kevin
you want galvanize
do it
but the warranty Porsche * give on theirs truly professional galvanized bodies ( the new Panamera included) is:
10-year long-life warranty against rust holes in the bodyshell.
it`s not more than other car producer give, without galvanizing.
Cheers
Peter

* http://www.porsche.com/canada/en/acc...rrantyperiods/