[grumpy]

Henry



Swap your gearbox mounting brackets .
They are handed left and right and are stamped as such .
The straight vertical edge is towards the rear .


Haven't been here for a while but I must say your making pretty good progress .

EDIT How did you manage to fit the bolts in the brackets to frame ?

[Henry James the 47th]

Hi Grumpy,

I remember those brackets being stamped right and left from when I painted them. If I've put them in backwards, well, there we go

I'll take a look today and see what's what. Thanks for noticing - I need all the help I can get.

[Henry James the 47th]

Nothing too exciting to add - I stripped the steering knuckles, balsted the parts with crushed glass and painted the bits with caliper paint. I also finished blasting the front axle and now have it in primer-surfacer.

[Henry James the 47th]

Originally Posted by grumpy

Henry



Swap your gearbox mounting brackets .
They are handed left and right and are stamped as such .
The straight vertical edge is towards the rear .


Haven't been here for a while but I must say your making pretty good progress .

EDIT How did you manage to fit the bolts in the brackets to frame ?

I'm not sure which bolts and which brackets you are referring to - if you mean the tranny mount brackets, then the frame has holes in place with nuts welded in behind.

[Radd Cruisers]

Build it and they will come.....................































Not sure who they are but good build...

Rob

[Henry James the 47th]

Originally Posted by grumpy

Henry



Swap your gearbox mounting brackets .
They are handed left and right and are stamped as such .
The straight vertical edge is towards the rear .


Haven't been here for a while but I must say your making pretty good progress .

EDIT How did you manage to fit the bolts in the brackets to frame ?

Well, it seems like the ( ) was a little premature: I checked the mounting brackets and they are on correctly, with the stamping on the right hand side one visible: "R".

I guess earlier 45's had a different arrangement(?)

[Henry James the 47th]

Originally Posted by Radd Cruisers

Build it and they will come.....................































Not sure who they are but good build...

Rob

Thanks - I'm not sure who 'they' are either, but I welcome their arrival. Maybe they can help me figure out how to rebuild this thing.

I've learned a lot from others here on MuD, and this is my first build and to be honest I really have no idea what I'm doing half the time and do make a lot of mistakes. Nothing that a bit more time or a few more $$ won't fix. It's feeling less overwhelming some days anyhow.

[Radd Cruisers]

Muds the best, saw your donour vehicle and it was very clean. The guys at south island have good doors and hatches to sell.

Good luck.

[Henry James the 47th]

Originally Posted by Radd Cruisers

Muds the best, saw your donour vehicle and it was very clean. The guys at south island have good doors and hatches to sell.

Good luck.

Yeah Rob, they've been very helpful at South Island Imports ( a local wrecking yard specializing in Toyota, for the rest of the folks out there) - I've been back twice to pull parts off the engine bay electrical harness, and they haven't charged me a dime. Too bad there aren't any 47's around here being parted out.

[Henry James the 47th]

No pictures today, I'm feeling reserved.

Today i finished painting the front axle, and popped the bearing seats out, then pulled the inner axle seals. It's pretty much ready for rebuild.

The rear axle is ready for finish paint. I rebuilt the starter simply by pulling the 12 volt armature out of my existing grubby starter casing, and fitting it into a nicer looking casing from a 24.v HJ60. Removed the 24v decal, so now it should work as a 12v. starter right?

Most days I take a look at the LHD bulkhead, with the wiring all apart and laying in it, and scratch my head about how to make it all work - in terms of the dash layout and what kinds of controls and instruments I want in place. One of the features that I wished the 47 had is intermittent wipers. There is a 40 series switch available from Toyota for this, but last time I checked it was $340 or something ridiculous like that, and had to come from Japan. I could also find some other dash-mounted wiper switch, or find something from an automotive electrical catalog. I decided against those options though, and today decided to mount a 60 series column. I checked it out carefully, compared 40 series to 60 series side-by-side, and examined the way the 60 column was put together, it didn't look too hard to modify to fit into place in my 47.

To mount the 60 series column, three things need to happen:

-the column needs to be shortened to bring the mounting flanges on the column into place to attach to the 40 dash.
-the dash mounting holes need to be moved outboard-the dash can be modded in a couple of ways to accomodate that need.
-either the firewall needs to have a section of 60 series firewall welded into place, so that the base of the 60 column can mount, OR the bottom of the 60 column needs to be chopped out and replaced with a section of the 40 series column (that way there is no need to modify the bulkhead and go and chop a piece out of a 60 truck). For mounting the upper part of the column to the dash, I might look at cutting a section from a 60 dash into that position instead of simply moving bolt holes.
Okay, 4 things: the 60 steering spindle needs to be shortened and have the terminal of the 40 series spindle welded to it.

With this mod, I will gain the intermittent wiper function, conveniently mounted at fingertip range, which is a little safer than taking one hand off the wheel. Also, the 60 series column is a colapsible design (which also showed up in some 40 series vehicles after 1980), which again is a safety improvement. further, the 60 column tilts, which might be nice sometimes, as I gain a huge beer gut for example. It also de-clutters the dash somewhat, removing not only the wiper switch, but the hazard switch button as well from the dash onto the column. Finally, the steering wheel is the same as what came on my 47, so it will look fairly stock for the most part.

I want to have a simple and clean dash, and by moving some of the controls to the column, I can put in such things as a tach, a pyro, and an hours meter and still keep it pretty clean - I hope.

The 60 series column has a different ignition switch, in that the 'glow' position is forward of the 'off' position instrad of behind it as on the 47 ignition. This means that with my right hand I can turn the ignition to 'glow' and then push a momentary switch, mounted on the dash at the left side of the instrument cluster, with my left hand.

I'm not sure how the dash pads will work with this column yet. Oh yeah, I need dashpads with this new firewall. Anybody got any decent ones?

Anyway, I steamed right on ahead after realizing that this was a sound plan, and disassembled the 60 column. That took 10 minutes. Then I drilled out 4 spot welds on the lower section of the column, and separated the sections. Now I can adjust it for length, or weld on the section of 40 column in place of the 60 one. The 60 column seems better designed in a number of ways though, and would be nice to keep as much of it as possible - besdies it simplifies the lower bushing interface. I'll bring my calipers tomorrow and measure the 40 and 60 column diameters to see how they might be married and go from there.

I finished off today by pushing some bushing into the spring eyes. Hopefully the shackles will arrive soon.

Next: I need to repair the rear axle spring seats, as their mounting holes are distorted badly. I'll cut sections off of a 60 axle's perches to splice in sections to the other axle. I'll take pictures.

[Henry James the 47th]

Today's exciting news:

well it seems like the OME springs I got from 4WheelAuto have different size center pins than the holes on the spring perches. A couple of the perch holes (rear axle) needed repairing anyway, so now it looks like I will do all of them. The plan is to back the perch hole plate with a chunk of copper plate, weld-fill the holes in, then grind the welds clean and smooth. Then I'll mark, centerpunch and drill new mounting holes, this time to match the pin size on the OME springs. That ought to work. Still not sure why the pin sizes don't match up though...

Picked up up the rear disc calipers this afternoon, with another set of ceramic pads. I opted for the same caliper set up as the front - 4Runner units with the larger pistons. A little overkill, perhaps for the rears, but they were only a few bucks more than the cruiser calipers, so it seemed worth it to "go big". Definitely should have no shrotage of brakes on this truck when it's done. I've got to get some caliper paint on the 4 calipers this weekend, and am thinking about how best to mask them so as to not get paint in the wrong places. I've then got to decide whether to fab up adapter plates from plate steel, or by slicing a ring off of a knuckle. I'm leaning towards the latter course at this point.

Did a small task on the engine today, installing new OEM mounting studs with nuts in the exhaust manifold outlet.

Found out the 'D' bushings 4WheelAuto sent me for my rear stabilizer bar do not fit (too small), so I ordered OEM replacements from Australia, along with new OEM mounting clamps and links. 4Wheel has supplied me with a lot of stuff over the past few months, but I'm starting to get tired of all the parts that i have to send back to them because they don't fit. Last week it was the new ignition lock barrel which was wrong for my vehicle. The parking brake cable they supplied is looking like it might be too short, even though I asked them to be sure it would fit my LHD vehicle. And now the sway bar bushings. I'm worried about what I will find next. And one more thing: they charge too much! I was quoted initially $600 for the rear OME Dakar springs, but when delivered, the price turned out to be $700. I'm getting weary of this sort of thing.

Allright, that was my whine and bitch session for the week; looking forward to making some good progress on the truck this weekend. It's supposed to rain, so i guess the painting activities will not be on the slate, but I'm sure I can find lots of trouble to get into all the same.

[Henry James the 47th]

Yesterday I discovered that some media blasting crud had gotten into my diffs and that meant that I needed to strip them down too. A bummer, since they were in perfect shape, but another great opportunity to learn something as well. I was a bit intimidated by the idea of taking the diff. apart, but once I got in there, the veil lifted, and it wasn't so mysterious anymore. It does help to have the FSM, especiailly when it comes time to put them back together. I'll need to order a pair of differential rebuild kits from somewhere, probably Marlin Crawler. That damn crushed glass got in everywhere inside the diffs and I think it will be best to put new bearings in, and then they should be good for 15~20 years I imagine.


After lunch, I took a long drive up north on the Island and pulled a pto, complete, plus an a/c compressor with mounting brackets off of an HJ61 with 12H-T motor. Some of you may have seen pictures of this JDM truck being parted out in the classifieds section. I wish I had the coin for the motor, though I must say I was very happy to be able to scoop the pto unit and compressor, since the rig had only 133,000km original on it. I don't think that the pto has ever been used, or maybe just once or twice, judging by it's pristine condition. Unfortunately, because of the 10" body lift the truck had, the pto shift lever had been lengthened. No problem though, as I have another one on hand. I pulled the shift lever mounting bracket off of the auto tranny, but it's not going to bolt onto my H41. So, I will see if I can track down the correct bracket first. I was able to grab the pto driveshaft mounting plates fo the inside of the 61's chassis, which probably won't bolt up to my rig either, but will serve as excellent templates for fabricating some other ones. The drive shafts will have to be modified for sure. I will also need to mod the pto winch mounting slightly, as it will not bolt right up to my chassis/bumper either. This will involve welding full-height, 20" x 0.375" plate on the backside of my CCOT H.F.S. bumper - I guess I'll have to call it Super H.F.S. after that. Hopefully it won't cause the truck to tip forward are the front due to the weight (just kidding).

I was amazed at how intricately fitted the a/c compressor mounting brackets are - definitely will make for a clean install, and it's a good thing that the 2H and 12H blocks/heads are virtually identical on the outside, especially in terms of locations of mounting points. I now understand why there were so many threaded holes around the thermostat housing mounting location at the front of the head.

I'll have to figure out a clean in-line oiling system for the compressor - probably it will mount somewhere on the inside of the driver's fenderwell. I'm planning to use it as an on-board air system pump.

Today I'll do a bunch of media blasting, priming, and painting.

[Henry James the 47th]

Well sports fans, I have some more pictures to post. first, a couple of shots of the diff. housings, freshly crushed-glass blasted, primed and painted. The spots on the parts are just some dust that got blown onto them.

Then a shot of the pto winch, after a little disassembly and cleaning. I chose to paint the case, and media blasted a couple of the parts. Pulling the lever off required drifting out a little 4mm pin, and that didn't fare well in the removal, so I need to source a new pin from SOR.

[Henry James the 47th]

Here's a pic of the pto drive unit, now bolted up to the transfer. This isn't the pto drive I ultimately want to have, but it will do for now. It is like-new in condition. I'm trying to source a mounting bracket for the pto shift lever at the moment. This unit came off a HJ61 which had an auto trans, and the mount doesn't fit my h41 trans.

Then there's a picture of the pto winch rear mounting angle iron, which needs a little modification to fit the 47 chassis. Then the winch RH mounting bar, after cleaning blasting and painting.

[Henry James the 47th]

Here's some shots of the new a/c compressor and its mounting bracketry - 5 cast pieces comprise the mounting (!), all of which I blasted primed and painted, then installed with new CAD-plated bolts. I need to get a hold of the correct double pulley for the front of the water pump, and will be sending my single pulley to the fellow I bought the pump from in exchange for the double one.

[Henry James the 47th]

Pictures of the rear axle, showing the mangled spring perches. I've taken a cold chisel to the inside of the torn holes and chopped the metal out. Next I will put ome copper plate in as a temporary backer and weld-fill the holes. Then it will be a simple matter to grind the perch surface flat, re-drill the holes, and make it all good again.

The third picture shows the remanned 4Runner calipers, which i have decided to paint blue, using caliper paint of course.

[Henry James the 47th]

one more: the pto fairlead rollers after blasting and primer painting. It hardly seemed worth doing, since one use of the winch would rip all the paint off, but I went ahead anyway. I considered chroming them, but decided against it.

[DanS HJ-45]

Looking good! Glad to see an update. My curiosity was peaking, so to say.

You have no idea how jealous I am about that winch.... For some reason a PTO winch just seems more appropriate on a diesel.

Dan

[Henry James the 47th]

Hey Dan,

you know, I think you're right - the most logical match to a pto is a diesel in some respects. I had a pto shipped with the truck from Oz, but it was a Toyota knock-off, and the drive unit didn't fit my splitcase. It was great to find such a nice pto (and the a/c compressor too) from a truck with under 100,000 miles on it. I also want to have rear pto, and have recently realized that the worm in the winch drivecasing could be modified to have front output (through the bumper I suppose) as well. I want the truck to have the capacity to run a mortar mixer and possibly a pump of some sort, besides the winch.

To obtain the pto drive i ultimately want, i have realized I need to get a couple of particular drive units from pre-1985 trucks (two different types actually) and put the parts together to make one - a drive unit with front and rear outputs that will also operate in reverse. And the current drive unit, which is off an 1988 vehicle, has no parts to contribute to that final configuration unfortunately. I've gotten a hold of quite a few parts diagrammes of different pto drives and there is a surprising amount of variability to them as the years of production roll along. And many of the parts are no longer available. I'm glad to be in Canda as there are so many JDM vehicles around from which it is occasionally possible to glean parts. I was talking to CDan on the phone the other day and he told me he hadn't physically seen a pto on a 40 series for many many years.

I wonder if new cruisers can still be had with a pto?

The a/c compressor is intended for use as an onboard air pump, so I will need to figure out an oiler for the pump - based on a little research so far, it looks simple enough. I have to think over how to plumb it in terms of the outputs for the air lines.

[HJ45-PU]

What u have done with ur 47 its amaizing. U almost take the breath away from me, because i have almost the same car as u. Now i know what work that waits for me

[Henry James the 47th]

Well Dag,

here's hoping that your truck needs a lot of work and gives you a lot of opportunity to learn and have fun! This forum is a great resource for cruiser owners and I'm glad you have enjoyed my little thread so far.

[HJ45-PU]

Well i hope that i will get the guts that i missing to start restoring. But some day i will start, and i know there will be days that are not so interesting as other days. But im in no hurry, it will take the time that it requires. And yes i will use this forum to get help when it comes up, but i also have the Norwegian Land Cruiser Club`s members to help me.
We have about 15-20, 40 series trucks in our country i think + lots of 42 and 43`s.

[DanS HJ-45]

Well i hope that i will get the guts that i missing to start restoring.

Just remember that every single part of your truck was, at one point, separate and had to be assembled. It was put together once, it can be put together again! Especially on Toyotas, they really do make sense once you start taking them apart.

Dan

[Henry James the 47th]

Today I received the components to rebuild my anti-sway bar from Australia. I got Toyota links, D-bushings, upper and lower link bushings, bolts, and mounting brackets. The old links had stretched mounting holes and the mounting brackets were fairly pitted, so I went with new stuff. Should be 'set and forget' for the next 20 years

[Henry James the 47th]

Another photo of the completed install of the sway bar. I just need to pick up some stainless split pins and complete work on the rear axle mounts and it's done.

The last picture is of one of the set bumper brackets that I got off EBay a couple of weeks back - test fitted for the moment to see how things line up with the upper triangular brackets. My old side brackets were badly pitted and had damage to the holes drilled in them - the new set was only slightly pitted, had no damage to the mounting holes, and had been bead blasted and powder coated. Seemed like a decent deal for $38/set.

[Henry James the 47th]

No pics today, and I thought I'd update anyhow..

The front winch is reassembled and sitting on the frame. I need to figure out a couple of issues with mounting it in the correct location, and getting the lever position bar (with the two detent holes drilled in it) set up in the right spot. I also temporarily positioned the 61 series three piece pto driveshaft along the inner frame rail to see how it will fit into place. I will wait until the engine is back in the frame before making final decisions on where to slice and dice it.

I've taken the differential carriers all apart, pulled the bearings (finally gave in and got myself an OTC puller). The large pinion bearings were a pain to get off and I inadvertently slightly chipped one of the gear tooth faces when using a chisel to drive the bearing down a bit (just like the factory manual suggests, as there isn't room to get the puller hooks into the back of the gear race). Anyway, that gave me cause to curse a fair bit, but upon closer inspection i could see that the small section with the chip in it was not within the wear pattern on the face, so I think all will be fine. I Need to take the pinions to a shop to get the bearings pressed on, and was able to get the other bearings and races seated with a hammer and assorted pipes, sockets and the like as drifts. I reassembled the carriers for the mean time, just to keep the parts together, and everything seems to be spinning smoothly. Finally I have gotten past the media blasting incident - a costly lesson. I've got to drum up some lead marking paint to set the gears up properly.

The new flange deflectors did not fit my early type of flanges (I found that my older diff flanges also fit fine spline pinions, so it was easier to switch out those earlier-type flanges onto my '87 diff centers than to drill different mounting holes on the later flanges), so I needed to order another set of deflectors from SOR. Fortunately they were less than $5/ea.

Discovered by wiping oily crud off the front of my a/c compressor pulley and discovering the Denso metal tag located there, that the compressor clutch is 24v., so i will need to find a new clutch or replace the whole unit with a 12v. one.

I spent 6 hours today with the zip wheel, anvil and hammer, making the main floor patch panel for the driver's side. It went pretty well and I'll post up some pictures soon enough. I really need to get welding on the cab soon, and am hampered by trying to locate a mig gas cylinder.

Also, I marked out and drilled the holes for the door frame light switches, and will weld the switch bosses into place hopefully soon.

[Henry James the 47th]

Left work a bit early today and got a good 7 hours in on the truck, mostly welding work on the rear axles. I welded on some .25" plate onto the rear spring perches, and on the front, since the holes were less elongated, I backed them with copper plate, filled in with weld, and then was able to grind them flat and re-drill the holes to the correct size. The front axle required 15/32" holes, while the rear required 9/16" holes.

I tried to build up with weld the damaged section on the rear axle tube where the u-bolts had crushed things a bit - the result of my efforts was some improvement, but a little short of perfect.

I also repaired the sway bar mounting bracket on the rear axle, by welding on a couple of grade 10.7 metric 10mm washers.

[Henry James the 47th]

I sourced a pto lever mounting bracket from a 70 series, and it pretty much bolts right onto the transmission, save for one corner. I will cannibalize the auto-trans plate (visible in the top picture perched atop the pto drive unit) tomorrow for a section to weld in to connect the raised tab with the rest of the plate. I'm also really looking forward to the day when I do the transmission-to-transfer seal and can remove the frickin' red hose from the tranny and put the proper fill plug back in place.

The third picture is of some stuff I hung off the front end of the chassis, just to reassure myself that one day I'll have a truck again, and to get a sense of what it might be like. Sometimes, the months of staring at a bare chassis that hardly ever seems to change can make me wonder if I'll ever finish this thing! I will, don't worry - hopefully before I'm bankrupt.

The pto winch mounting bracket will need a few modifications to fit correctly to the bumper - i Have a piece of wood under it at the moment to hold it at a good alignment.

[Henry James the 47th]

One picture showing the factory spacer blocks that go under the rear pto support and fit against the curve in the chassis section.

then a show of the rear of the rad frame and shroud, with the rad support bars that I just finished straightening. Will repaint tomorrow.

Then a shot of the 3-sectioned pto drive shaft I pulled off the HJ61, which I am rigging into place to see how I can modify it to fit. HJ47's actually had a 3-section pto drive in the last 2 years of production, a now unobtainable part. The mounting brackets from the 61 will allow for a fairly clean set up with only a minimum of fabrication.

[Henry James the 47th]

The first picture shows how neatly the first pillow block/cardon joint for the pto drive shaft will tuck into the underside of the engine mount. I think I will cut the middle section drive shaft to a much shorter length, which will allow for a better location for the second pillow block mount - to a section of chassis without so many cutouts present, and give the max. clearance around the area where the exhaust pipe come down past it, and keep it neatly under the shielding plate around the steering gearbox mount.

The last tow shows are of my axles, at last getting their final paintwork. I'm soooo looking forward to putting the axles back in place. The shackles still haven't shown up yet, so I will probably throw the originals back on for now so that I can get the axles and brakes all together.

I'm planning on putting in a long day or two on the truck over the weekend, and hope to make good progress.

I picked up a welding tank of mig mix today, and have been lucky enough to find a good welder to borrow, so I'm hoping to stat moving ahead on the cab sheet metal. I'm also looking to complete the diff. reassembly in the next 3~4 days and that will definitely be a huge relief when that's over. I pressed the main pinion bearing's on yesterday so the next step will be the install and adjust and repeat sequence I've been reading about in the FSM. Whew! one step at a time...

Did I mention I have also been solo cutting a timber frame building of my own design during the past 3 months, and that it is pretty much ready for raising in the coming week? A lot of parts to keep track of, with these two projects, let me tell you!