[Henry James the 47th]

more shots of mangled parts, and the sad task of pulling the engine again...

[Henry James the 47th]

I've never seen such pounded-on rocker tips before. God knows what they would have cost from Toyota to get new (not that the local dealership would have been any help in that regard...).

The tranny just needed a new gasket and seal. I took the flange off and wire-wheeled it, then painted it (visible in lower left of tranny pic). Just waiting on a gasket and seal shipment from SOR and it will be back together.

[Henry James the 47th]

Another thing I discovered when i pulled the head was that my engine was not an early 2H with cylinder liners, but rather a later 2H, with a parent bore block. That explains the oil cooler cover and the non-fitting oil filter bracket.

I managed to find another 2H in a wrecking yard about an half hour's drive away - not a common thing to find by any stretch. The wrecker said it was the first one he'd gotten a hold of in years. It was out of a 1986 HJ60. The truck was in garage-kept, rust-free condition, and by the general lack of dirt on the negine, had evidently seen little to no off road use. Too bad it went into a ditch over the winter and was written off. It was from Victoria, on the south end of the island, where snow is a rarity. They don't even have snowplow trucks there - or at least not in the recent past.

Another good sign was the presence of Toyota oil and fuel filters, which I thought probably indicated a dealer-serviced truck. The rig had 325,000 km on it (slightly over 200,000 miles), and started up with a small puff of black smoke. After that, it ran cleanly and smoothly. I snagged it for $2000, which included the 24 v. starter and alternator. I needed the air filter housing, which had a K&N filter in it, along with the vacuum tank reservoir, so I let the yard keep the alternator. They also let me have the brake booster for $35 and pull whatever parts I needed from the electrical system. Since my truck is 12v. and I want to stick with that, I won't be able to use the starter, so I will post it up for sale.

Here's some pics, the first showing the truck the engine came out of. This engine, though only a year different than my dead one, had many differnt features. The injector pump does not use an EDIC system, rather a vacuum shutoff (hence the need to obtain the vacuum reservoir from the truck). I don't mind loosing the EDIC system, since I'm all for reducing electrical complexity in my rig. The accel. linkage also has a secondary lever arm that pulls the curved arm, pulling in turn a cable that goes to the auto trans. I pulled that bit off today. I'm hopeful I can find a good solution to the accel. cable, since it is much shorter in the 60 series than in the 47, and has different terminals swaged on the ends.

Notice the timing gear cover is different on this engine than the dead one: this is the form for the cover when the engine came from the factory with A/C and/or P/S. Another difference is that the crankshaft pulley is the harmonic balancer type, so it ought to make the engine a tad smoother.

In the second picture you can see that i have mounted the 47 series power steering pump, and have removed the crank pulley. I found a leak at the back of the timing gear case, but I would need to pull then engine completely apart to remove the case, so I think, uh, not. I can put up with a minor leak, and will try cleaning the area and using high-temp silicone to effect a short-term repair. In the third pic you can see the engine mount from my 47 installed, which is part-and-parcel of the power steering pump assembly.

[Henry James the 47th]

Another couple of pictures of the new 2H. The first shows the rear of the motor, where i installed a new crankshaft end seal. The aluminum carrier was not wanting to come out easily (Edit: I later realize that the normal approach to removing this part is to take the oil pan off first, which gives much better access to the bottom of the retainer), so I pried the seal out with a screwdriver, taking care not to scratch the crankshaft, and pushed a new one on with a liberal amount of non-melt grease and tapping it home with a wooden block.

Then the left side. This is after a good scrub down and cleaning. There are some minor leaks here and there, but nothing too bad, and I'm attending to what I can get to without taking the motor apart. In the left picture, there is a sender of some sort installed at the back of the block. I'm not quite sure what it does, though a friend suggested it was a low-pressure shutdown switch.

[Henry James the 47th]

And here's a couple of shots showing the small amount of progress I have made with the cab floor. I obtained a chunk of copper plate, and by using it as a backer, I have been more easily able to get decent welding results.

The second shot shows the two parking brake mounts under the floor. I have opened up the hole on the lower one and will soon weld the smaller one (top one in the picture) closed.

[Henry James the 47th]

Well, I've made a bit of progress on the engine. Put the mounts and tranny support brackets back on, changed the filters and rocker cover gasket, cleaned the rocket cover, and pulled the water pump to clean and paint it. I've also put the new water pipe and hoses on, and changed the glow plugs to the slow type. Installed new temp sender. Cleaned and painted the crank pulley. Cleaned and painted the rear engine blocking plate, and installed the flywheel. Installed the 12v alternator and will hook up the hoses soon. Replaced the heat shielding on the exhaust manifold as a final step.

Waiting on the pilot bearing and tranny seals and gasket to come (should be any day now) and then i can put the tranny back on.

There's a minor oil leak emanating from the timing gear case just below the water pump, and I'll be cleaning the seam between the casing and the block with acetone and using high temp silicone to seal it as best I can.

[DanS HJ-45]

I've just spent the past hour reading through this thread...

Fascinating! Your work looks great, I can't wait until I get to tear into mine in a similar fashion.

Dan

[Henry James the 47th]

Thanks Dan - I'm looking forward to one day reading your rebuild thread too!

I keep chipping away at this project. I stripped the rear axle right down yesterday. Two of the hub nut lock screws had damaged phillips heads so I used a LH twist drill on them, and it worked like a charm and they pbacked right out. Now I need to get some new ones - hello SOR.

I discovered that the right hand side rear brake drum wasn't in great shape, and that the left side had suffered from a wheel coming off and pavement drag at some point in its life, and had a good 1/2" ground off the drum. Another fun part to replace. I will be completely rebuilding the brakes, replacing bearings, getting a new drum, etc, in the coming weeks. I've wire wheeled, primed and painted the two hubs and one of the backing plates so far.

I pulled the surrent sensor and resistor off the engine intake manifold and plugged the holes with 18 mm x 1.5 mm bolts, with copper crush washers under the heads to seal them.

I had the steering pivot support plate welded into the chassis by an experienced commerical welder, and have since plut the reconditioned pivot assembly back on the chassis.

I took the restored vacuum reservoir off the chassis, thinking of using the 60 sereis one, then changed my mind and have replaced the unit back on. It's like musical vac reservoirs. Hopefully that's over now, as I'm getting dizzy.

Still waiting on my SOR orders, which are in the mail. The CCOT parts (front windshield weatherstrip and greasable bushing set) came yesterday, and my OME srping package should be on Vancouver Island by tomorrow. The anti-inversion shackles are in sea mail transit from Australia -hopefully they will show in the next week or two.. I have another aprcel coming from Australia as well, containing a new windshield washer reservoir/overflow tank, along with a few other bits.

Contemplating breaking the transfer off the tranny to do the seals and gaskets...

...endless...and soon, pennyless...

[seapotato]

I wonder if those rear brakes on your FF are the same as an earlier FF? I have shitloads of drums and shoes and stuff kicking around. lots of it new....

[Henry James the 47th]

Originally Posted by seapotato

I wonder if those rear brakes on your FF are the same as an earlier FF? I have shitloads of drums and shoes and stuff kicking around. lots of it new....

Holy sh*t, you read my mind SeaPotato! I was looking for your phone number to ask if you had any drums kicking around (given that you have gone to 4wheel discs on your BJ45, I figured you might). The rear rums on mine are single wheel cylinder, and the shoes are about 2.5" wide. I had hoped I could swap my front drums on, but they have 3" wide shoes and the double cylinders. So yeah, if you've got some brake stuff, i could be coming up for a look-see real soon.

[Henry James the 47th]

Today was a good day. Even though it sucks to be in debt with this project, the good news comes regularly with packages of shiny gear. Today was exceptional in that regard.

In came the OME springs, heavy front and medium rear. In came the SOR order with the gasket and seal for the input shaft cover plate. The seal was a bit difficult to remove, and to put back in (the SST would have been nice to have), but it went in, got slathered in non-melt grease, and the cover plate's bolted back on. I need to get a torquewrench to set the bolts tomorrow.

[Henry James the 47th]

From Australia arrived the overflow tank and washer bottle, along with new washer hose and a selection of Toyota hose clamps. From SOR the rear full floater rebuild kit.

[Henry James the 47th]

Here's a shot of the newly-installed pivot arm and the mounting plate that is now part of the chassis, and the flywheel that is now part of the engine

[Henry James the 47th]

I also had improvement in my welding today. The little section of floor section was stitching in today - the piece on the right in the second photo. By lowering the wire feed speed, moving the heat seting up from 2 to 3, and using a copper backing plate, I have been able to get much better penetration on the welds with no burn-through. I'm psyched!

A firend of mine, another Mudder, welded a new section in to one of the step mounting brackets.

[Henry James the 47th]

Here's a picture of the piece of copper I was using -it's 0.25" thick.

The step mount was then polished out a bit, and the third pic shows the repair along with the rust-pitted section that was removed.

[Henry James the 47th]

One of my rear drums had a cylinder leak, and the other had suffered from not one, but TWO wheel eject and rum drag sessions (I presume - then again, maybe it was dragged by towing, and the guy didn't care about the missing wheel?). After pricing out a new drum, and factoring in the shoes, and spring kit, and remachining the other drum, i have realized that what I have here is a good opportunity to convert to rear discs, and that is what I will be doing. So, I stripped the rear axle completely, and dropped the springs from their perches.
I'm still waiting on the anti-inversion shackles from Oz to arrive, which at at sea at the moment. I can't wait to get them!

[Henry James the 47th]

I've got a little more done on the engine, cleaning the fan and reinstalling it along with the belt and pulley.

I pulled the current sensor and resistor (shown in the second pic) and replaced them with 18mm x 1.5mmthread bolts with copper crush washers underneath. A cleaner choice might have ben to get some diff drain plugs, which i think are the same size threads but have much more svelte heads on them.

Tomorrow I should be able to acquaint the engine with the H41 tranny. I'm probably going to pull the transfer off and attend to the seals within. It seems logical to do it now, and the hose running from transfer to tranny indicates that the main seal is probably not functional.

[Henry James the 47th]

Last pic shows the floor pan after the recent work on the patch piece. I'm getting pretty close to welding that patch in. Then I can move to the other side, and after that, weld in the LHD bulkhead. Whew! Lotta work ahead...

[Henry James the 47th]

Today i hunted down some electrical bits and pieces at the wrecking yard, and put in a couple of hours on the 47. I cut the u-bolts on the rear springs to free the axle. Then I sandblasted the anchor plates, primed and painted them. Then I wnet at the spring mountings on the frame with paint stripping disc, wire wheel, flap wheel and a touch of sandblasting (then I cursed it real good :^)), then sprayed some rust converter/primer-sealer on. Excuse the dark pictures. The third one is that side step mount that was repaired. It's going on the truck tomorrow!! (hey, ya gotta take your small victories where you can get them!)

[Henry James the 47th]

One of the rear springs had a rusted out center pin, and fell to pieces upon removal

[DanS HJ-45]

Those welds look great. I'd be willing to bet that under some primer I couldn't find it (you'll always be able to find your work).

I'm so jealous, I have to spend nearly two months out of town (St. Louis--not much fun for this mountain boy) so I can't even get much work done inspecting mine getting ready to tear into it.

Any particular reason you're getting shackles from down under? Does nobody closer to home carry them, or are you going for something specific? I know I'll be replacing every bit of the suspension, so it's something I've got to start looking into.

Dan

[Henry James the 47th]

I appreciate the compliments on my welds, though only the third one of those I am actually pleased with at this point. I feel like I can do a good job now, which sure beats the endless frustration I have been dealing with so far in the learning curve, and that confidence is really the most important thing.

After looking at various shackle designs out there, and having gone through the torment of pulling/chopping/wrestling rusted shackles and springs off of a 60 series last winter, i decided I wanted shackles that were:

-greasable
-anti-inversion

Loooking at the greasable shackles out there, from CCOT, man-a-free, 4+, and so forth, I considered and compared their relative design merits as best I could. I didn't like designs where the grease zerks were sitting out proud of the shackle pin, as it seemed to give poor protection. I found one type of greasable shackle in which the zerk was partially shrouded by the pin end, and was planning on buying these when...

... one day I came across a seller on Ebay Australia who was making shackles for sale, and he had really figured out a good design. His user name tells you a lot about his attitude: sprungart

Here's a link:

eBay Seller: sprungart: Car Parts, Accessories, Landcruiser 60 Series Anti Inversion Shackles 4WD items on eBay Australia

The price was great, even with sea mail shipping, and the money back guarantee gave me some confidence too. It obvious - the guy is into what he makes. 100% positive feedback (ravingly positive), was the clincher.

The 60 and 75 series shackles work on my 47 series frame. In fact the full floater axle on the 47 is the same as the 60 series, except for length. For your 45 series rig, you would probably need a different shackle - if you ask the fellow, he'll probably have them or would make them for you. He also does extended shackles too.

i got my greasable poly shackle bushes from CCOT.

[Henry James the 47th]

Some pictures of the rear axle after wire-wheeling it to death. Nasty job trying to dodge the little wire missiles that come off and embed in my clothes and flesh.

The axle has had some welding done at the locations where the u-bolts wrap the upper side of the tube. I suspect that the rubber bump stops, which normally attach there, had rusted badly and eroded part of the axle housing, so the P.O. got it skimmed with some weld. Not a super clean job, but it will have to do. I could lay some more weld down and clean it off, but considering the new bumpers will be mounted on top, it seems unneccessary.

The third pic shows the freshly paint-stripped hard fuel line installed (temporarily perhaps). I'll be picking up some Viton tubing soon to make the remaining sections of flexible fuel line.

[Henry James the 47th]

I jacked the front of the frame up and put it on blocks so i could pulled the front axle and springs. Removal was a breeze, and I was able to strip the drum hubs off without referring to the manual at all, which felt empowering. Once you've done it once or twice, it is pretty easy to remember.

[Henry James the 47th]

A couple of shots showing the gear train back on the engine, and another showing where i had just finished cutting the long bolt ends off which are holding the relocated steering damper bracket in place.

[Henry James the 47th]

A couple of pics showing the u-bolt mounting plates freshly sandblasted, and then primered, and the front axle after wire-wheeling and a bit of blasting. Unfortunately the only sand on hand had a lot of crap in it which kept plugging the blaster valve and nozzle, so I abandoned the blasting until tomorrow, when I can pick up some fresh clean sand.

[Henry James the 47th]

Another couple showing the next layer applied to the u-bolt plates: Hi-Build primer surfacer.

Then I started work on modifying a mudshield that was mounted on the left side of the chassis in the engine bay. With the LHD steering mount now in place, I had to chop out a section and then bend a flange up on the edge...

[Henry James the 47th]

Another two on the splash guard modding, and a final shot surveying the carnage

[Henry James the 47th]

Today i picked up two bags of blast media after work and put in a couple of hours on the 47. Much better results than yesterday thanks to the clean media. I managed to blast all of the front axle and front disc brake components (pulled off of a 60 series).

I discovered that the fill plug on the diff was absloutely frozen in place (I wonder if this is why there was no oil in there whatsoever...uh, yup. That would be the explanation.

I tried the impact gun, but it rounded off the corners on the nut, so tomorrow i'll have to get serious with it.

I got a few coats of etching primer and primer surfacer on before packing it in, as well as several coats of black enamel on the u-bolt mounting plates.

New brake stuff arrived today. I got a set of vented Brembo rotors for the front, along with remanufactured 4Runner calipers and ceramic pads. I don't want to cut any corners when it comes to the brakes.

I'll pick up some brake caliper paint tomorrow and paint the new units. I'm going with 4Runner calipers instead of Landcruiser because these have 2 large pistons instead of the Cruiser's one large/one small approach, AND the pads are bigger as well so the braking will be much improved over stock I think - this an more, i learned here on 'Mud, so thanks everyone!. And, in the long run, discs are much cheaper and easier to maintain, and perform better in wet conditions, which make them an excellent choice out here in the Pacific Northwest rainforest.

[Henry James the 47th]

Three more. It's so nice to be done with that bit of work. I'm looking forward to getting black enamel on the parts tomorrow, and moving the show closer to reassembly.

I left the rear seals in the hubs to keep the paint out, and will pry the seals off tomorrow, hopefully, after the caliper paint has been applied.